2nd Generation Dodge 24 Valve Powertrain

My 01 spuddered today for the first time. Here are the codes I read 0500, 1693,0234 and 0522. the last 2 didn't show untill the 2nd cycle when it goes thru the code thing. Now what do I do? I'm j-hooked with a turnbuckle. 4" turbo back and torque dog. Towing 6500# with the dog set in the stock position. Any help would be appriciated greatly since I'm out of town working. --- Update to the previous post... I forgot to add. Never got a cel and it seems to be running ok now. Going to remove the turnbuckle when she cools down. Also forgot to thank mopar man for all his advise, info and help the other day on the phone. Thanks dude!!!

Wasn't RUNNING that is. We were on our way to drop the truck off to get the heat/AC fixed. I'd already driven 25 miles... I was going 35-40 when suddenly I lost the power steering... cause the engine had shut off. I pulled off the road into the only space available. I still had 1/4 tank of fuel... old fuel been in since Sept/Oct. I've only been driving enough to keep the brakes from freezing. The engine turns over nicely. No run. I did the key thing. PCU -------- ECM -------- The mice had built a nest in the air cleaner (which I'd recently cleaned out)... mostly insulation material from the firewall. (Hood insulation removed long ago.) My buddy …

I bought my truck 6 months ago with only 47,000 miles on it. It had sat for almost 4 years with a dead VP44. Before even starting or cranking the engine I changed the oil and filter. After running it for about 2,000 miles I started getting a very bad odor in the cab when I would stop at a stoplight or stop sign. Finally tracked the smell down to the engine oil. Starts getting that horrible stench around 2,000 miles or so. Any ideas on what it possibly is? Planning on getting oil analysis done as soon as I can get the trans problem taken care of and start driving it again.

hi guys i am fairly new to the site and i want to thank you all for the tons of imfo that is posted on this site . It's fun to read and learn how to fix any problems one may come across without having to pay the big buck to take the truck to a shop,so keep up the good work and thanks to Mopar Man for making this site available.Thanks again KevinOk now i have a problem.I can drive the truck all day with out any problem but if i pull into a parking lot or go through a drive through and have to stop an wait for the line up to move this is where it starts.As i let the my foot off of the brake and let the truck move forward at an idle it will make a thump and roll a bit and th…

I'm not getting any indication on the instrument cluster that the 4 wheel drive is engaged but everything works fine,where is the indicator switch

What all is involved and what would a person be looking at cost wise?

I just found out about the "53 block" and I have one. Does anyone know what the odds are that it will crack? It has 180,000 miles now and the person who had it before me used it to pull fifth wheel and goose neck trailers. It seems to have been well taken care of and is still fine. Should I be worried?

It is time for some new brake pads for the front of the truck, I am thinking ebc or performance friction might do the trick, anyone with recommendations? Rotors are stock with no damage and as usual I plan to turn them unless someone out there recommends otherwise. Thanks all,Chris

I had the impression (obiviously erroneous) that mice didn't like diesel intakes. WRONG!! I've been holding off the BHAF install, waiting until the AC & heater repair gets done, so rather than the BHAF get bunged up by the shop (cracked the cover the last time... never told me... I did a super-glue repair). So the first shop didn't even start the job, so I brought the truck home & made an appointment elsewhere. For some reason I decided to pull the stock air box & at least start the BHAF install. Like it says in the title, the stock airbox was full of trashed sound-deadening insulation. I'd already removed & thrown away the under hood blanket …

Hi, just joined the forum and this is my first tread.A week ago replaced my vp44 and upgraded lift pump to airdog2-165, did everything myself and truck started right after bleeding. I've been driving the truck since i got it back running and have noticed that the truck now takes longer to start. I've been searching the internet and haven't found an aswer to my problem, finally found this forum and any help would be appreciated.

Finally got everything buttoned up tonight and fired it up, only to notice a small, but steady stream of ATF coming out near the front of the trans. Further tracing of the leak found a hole worn through the hard line that runs from the heat exchanger up to the trans cooler. So, I cut that worn section out and fitted a section of hose and clamps in place to hold over til I get the new lines ordered. Anyway, after that drain-and-refill exercise, we took it off the jacks and loaded tools and such in the bed, and headed home. About 2 miles in (and this is in 4am traffic, mind you, i.e., non-existant) with some basic testing of functionality like downshifts, WOT 1-2 and 2-3, …

Ok so its really a electrical because the tranny shop drove it with a scan tool and said the voltage is jumping around from 14.8 to 11.1 at the apps sensor causing lock and unlock he said tranny is fine check the regulator so had a load test done every thing is good so how do you do a apps relearn another guy want to add a wire to fix it saying changing the apps wont fix it but it worked fine the last 12 years I don't want to do that thanks in advance

Had a funny idle this morning. I have a 2.2k ohm resistor in my iat sensor but I dont see how it would have anything to do with it. Cranked up and drove to work this morning and all was fine. Got in my truck a couple hours later to go to my next store and truck cranked up and idled fine a few seconds then it idled to about 950 or so then back down to 800. It did this on and off for a minute until I put it in drive. Then got to my next store and it was doing the same thing when I parked, it would idle like this for 3-5 seconds high then 3-5 seconds low. I reset the apps and then came back out in a few hours and the truck was doing the same thing. Next store I reset the app…

I was on my way to church this morning and my speedometer started acting up going to like 127 mph for a few seconds at a time. That is all it was doing. I went to leave church and head to the shop and more problems... As soon as I turned the key on the speedometer instantly pegged out again. The truck started fine and when I went to leave its like the convertor was stuck in lockup and the tranny is in high gear.I can put the shifter down into 1 or 2 and the tranny will shift into those gears but the speedometer remains pegged out and anytime the speedometer is pegged out and you put the shifter in D the tranny stays in high gear. I'm thinking possibly the VSS on the rear …

hey all , been a while.ya'll got me going last time i had trouble , maybe someone has had this problem. my wait to start light quit coming on. could it be my grid heater?

Thinking about a Gear Vendors overdrive again. Any experience here with them?With fuel closing in on $4 a gallon am looking at putting on on the truck. Talked with Gear Vendors and have found one used for $1500 and the extra giblets will cost another $6-900 or so then installation. Yes thats a lot of diesel fuel but my gut tells me that fuel is not going to get cheaper for a long time so if I am going to do this then its time.Evidently I need a NV5600 tail housing off of a 4 X 4 truck to make the GV work with my two wheel drive tranny. Any ideas where to get one for a reasonable price? GV suggested Dodge and we know how thats going to cost! Thx,Joe (aka FT)

So, my buddy and I dropped the trans yesterday in preparation for the install of my new FTI converter. The trans is currently at a buddy's shop having the Superior shift kit and some new seals installed. Anyway, in looking at older posts, I see that the stock converter has 6 welded bungs for the bolts. The converter I pulled out of my truck has a billet bottom plate, and aside from color looks like a twin of my FTI. Of course, all of these billet converters look the same, so that doesn't mean a thing. Anyway, can any of you experts ID one based solely on a couple of markings? This is the old one: I'd like to know whose it is, because it flippi…

Have a 2001 2500 HD Diesel 5.9 Auto Tranny. I have a major A/C leak. Leaked down with in 4 months. Are there any common problems with the A/C's on this type vehicle? I am the original owner. I had freon put in in 2007 and 2009 and Nov 2010. Is there a likely area to look for the problem? Any help will be greatly appreciated.ThanksMohok

I recently bought a 02 Dodge 2500 4wd auto, bone stock w/ 58,000 miles. I was driving it today and it won't stay in overdrive. About 55-60 mph or 1500-1700 rpm seems to be the worst about kicking in an out. I was on flat roads maintaining a steady speed. I'm new to auto transmissions behind a Cummins but this don't seem right.Help or suggestions appreciated.

Well I was changing the fluid and filter in my wonderful stock 47re yesterday. Found what looked like a 5 inch diameter snap-ring in pieces attached to the magnet in the trans pan. Had a good bit of metal shavings on the magnet also. Trans is also slipping when it shifts gears now with the fluid lever full. Worked fine until changing the fluid and filter. Anyone ever run into this? Has anyone ever used Revmax parts for their trans?