2nd Generation Dodge 24 Valve Powertrain

Ok guys bear with me, I did a search on changing rear main and no luck anywhere, I know I have seen it before but cant remember. If I remember right you can replace the rear main with oil pan on or off right? Right now my eng stand has the back of my block hid so I cant see it.I need to pull my oil pan before I install eng. to clear cross member. I just wanted to do everthing I can while eng is on stand. And trying to plan it all out. getting close:hyper:

Now I see why they are so easy to leak. I replaced the gasket on my new motor today and the rubber gasket just crumbled in my hand.

when I climb under my truck and look up at the transmission I can see what looks like a big gear (fly wheel?) Am I missing a cover or is made like that. Thanks

Are these pics normal? The crossover tube have a brown rust look to them whats up with that? The fuel line where it conects to the tube looks to have a sealer on it or something, the pics didnt come out good but you can see something there. This motor is a total virgin , never had a wrench to it except the water pump. So what ever that stuff is on the top of the tube came from the factory that way.The owner told me the truck set for about 10 months after his uncle died then he drove it for about a year then wrecked it about 1 month ago. When I looked at it the bare metal hadnt even started rusting yet so I know it didnt set long till I got it. What do yall think.

OK, Brainiacs, from my last post, I changed the U/L ball joints out last weekend. Once you get the hang of what you're doing, it's not to bad. Well, around Tuesday, I noticed a light blinked on the dash, bottom middle. Didn't know what it was, till I got home and used a flashlight..... 4WD light. I thought maybe, the bulb was going out. So I put it in 4H to take a spin around the property.... the light didn't come on, but it went into 4WD. Today when I left the house, the light started blinking, almost like a strobe light when I was driving. It would go off when I came to a stop, but then when I get to around 35, it starts blinking again, but sometimes it goes out…

Ok, the truck pulled hard to the left twice in a 2 week period. I pulled the drivers side caliper today and it has rotor metal on the pads and the rotor is slightly screwed because of it. So apparently the caliper was sticking. I may need a new rotor but not sure yet. It's possible a place in town can just turn the rotor.I can get new ones for $65 plus new pads.So........my question is what do you do about the passenger side. I've already pulled the caliper and rotor and all looks well on this side.

Hey guys I have an 2002 with AirDog 165 just for information here in chatt tn we experienced a rare 10 inch snow storm first week in january, truck did fine until 3rd morning temps dropped to single digits:doh: my AD 165 MOUNTED ON FRAME RAIL FROZE AND because of my hurriedness to get back in the warm house I didn't even look at fuel pressure guage or I would have realized "nasa we have a problem":duh: no fuel pressure as I was walkin away truck cranked and run just long enough to drink what fuel was foward of the pump shut down:cry:was able to use jet heater for 20mins blowing under truck thawed it out cracked injectors purged air and vrooooom (thank the lord) no problem…

Ok, I thought my vp was shot, now I'm stumped. I posted that I was given an 02 QC which had been sitting for 2 years. When I got it started it ran rough, and smoked like a train (white smoke.). Last night I changed the fuel filter (which was black), and noticed the little "o" ring around the cap was missing. MMMM... So I put the new filter in, along with the new "o" ring. Fired it up, and it quit after 2 seconds or so. It lost prime. After bleeding it, the engine ran like new! When I revved it up, there was a little puff of BLACK smoke, but NO white smoke. So I took it out for a drive. Turning at the corner I got into it, and it lit the tires (buckshots) while getting g…

I acquired one from an 01 with an auto so I figured it would work on my 02 auto but just figured I would see if someone had a definate answer. I read on another forum that 01 was a cruise switch year from vacuum to electric and it may not operate the cruise if it came off an early 01 and to plug and play to see if the gauges work. No biggie as I can go to Dodge to get it reflashed if need be.Another forum posted that they are interchangable if both were autos.

well i was on my way home from work and the truck just quit running. i now have a p500 and a p1693, truck will not start. any ideas as to where to start looking. kinda thinking i should have kept my ford. probably not i'm not that mad at this truck but getting close

My truck ('99) uses the P/N 4882423 fuel filter assembly. This is the one with the canister that drops off the bottom of the bracket, the fuel line banjo fittings are on top, and the fuel heater harness emerges from the top. I've been told that it is common for them to leak at the fuel heater harness & mine was no exception. In addition, I've been told that neither Dodge or Cummins supports this fuel filter any more, their recommendation being to update to the newer assembly. I was quoted almost $1500 by my local dealer for the repair - totally unacceptable!I disassembled the assembly (remove 3 torx screws, push heater assy/harness out) & found the leak was due …

what is the fix ,my truck as the same code

I'm replacing my transfer pump the one on the truck is not the original one,I bought a FASS DDRP 02.The suction is a different style fitting,it seems like a stainless tubing with a quick connect,did anybody ever experience that,to adapt the FASS pump I need to cut the stainless pipe and adapt some kind of a fitting ,in my package they sent me 2 banjo fittings /filter/rubber hose.Not sure what pump they had in there,the suction tubing must have been replaced that quick coupler seems like a good set up,it would be a waste to remove it.:duh:How can I attach pics to my thread

I bought a front seal from cummins and not totaly sure of my self. Is the way I have them stacked the way it goes together? The middle ring is like a seal also, I figured it helps hold the top ring in place while you tap it down. Should I use a little oil on the crank to help it slide on?

This thread over on CDF Q asked what causes ring breakage? I'm not sure how true it is but one reply states that engine oil cools pistons but fuel lubes upper cylinder / rings. This is interesting in light of fuel lubricosity of ULSD vs ULSD + TCW3. I just wanted to bring this discussion to everyone's attention.

Should I get the kit to resleve or just new seals? Also any videos on the subject?

I have pulled my valve cover about 3 times in the past several months trying to track down where a ticking noise is coming from. I think I have narrowed the tick down to the very back no.6 exhaust valve. I don't think it's normal to be able to hear this sort of ticking from inside the cab when applying the gas. I noticed this tick around 25,000 miles on the truck & right now it only has a little under 40,000.This last time that I pulled the valve cover I found the valve to be out of adjustment & so I tightened it up. Before I adjusted it I pulled up and down on the rocker I was kind of surprised but there seemed to be a small amount of movement between the roc…

I am assuming you can't pull the vp and the vaccum out at the same time?

Which way does it turn? If your looking at it from standing in front of bumper.I have done this several times and it does not want to turn.

What should I beware of when removing this cover? I have a leak back there and have never had one off. Do I need special tools to remove pulley? Cant spell harmonic balancer:doh: