2nd Generation Dodge 24 Valve Powertrain

I have an '01 with a vanaaken chip on it, was on truck when I bought it in '05. It has a Fass DDRP lift pump(second one in three years)that is a year old. Just put new ball and spring in pump.Has always had good pressure until recently. My question is does anyone know if this chip has had problems like developing a glitch that could cause problems with lift pump? CPC CAN-bus pump controller part#CPC isb215-235 ser#16050 card#D-500 are off of the box Can't find anything on them or about them,ant help would be greatly appreciated.

I'm really underwhelmed. I see elegant bilet machined fittings... that are seemingly "just" pressed into an inferior rubber gromet. There does not seem to be any compression... no nut on the inside. No flange bolted down. I see lots of pictures that seem to indicate fuel leakage on top of the tank. Am I missing something?I've worked on built tanks in the marine industry... Threaded holes. Under flanges with gaskets. Threaded tank tops. I've seen metal tanks fail (after immersion in salt water)... a handful in 20,000 installations. I've seen fill hoses get loose & leak... a couple in 20,000 installations. I just can't go for a defective design. It jus…

Saw something unusual today. My temps are varying much more than normal. Usually temps stay between 190 and 195. Today, 181 - 200. The thermostat is only 3 months old. All temps are per my scan gauge. What's up with this?Thx,Eric

Ok Gentelman I need some opinions on this one. Iv'e seen Mopar1973Man's page on 24v "Valve Lash Adjustment", and according to his your supposed to turn the bolt in the center of the Alternator to get to TDC, or BDC. But iv'e seen videos of guys turning the bolt directly behind the Crankcase Vent to get to TDC, OR BDC. So my questions is which "bolt" to turn? Then again it is 5:00 a.m. maybe my brains not working yet

so I just picked up a 90' VE pumped 12 valve motor for $1500. Im going to swap out my 24 valve with this motor .few reasons, miledge, relyabilty, and next to no electronics!I know its a direct swap, Im just hoping there is a way to retain my factory gauges? Also has any body seen this done to our body style yet?and what are your guys' thoughts? dont knock me to to bad! Im just sick of these constant codes, poor miledge, constantly worrying about my fuel pressure, and how everything is sooo expensive for these motors!

Hey All, I saw this on the news last night... I know there have been many conversations about Veggie Oil and Fry Grease and using it as a diesel alternative but this guy has been doing it for some time and has a pretty neat system set up. If anything it is interesting how he cleans it, the system he has set up seems to work pretty slick.... Here are the links if you are interested... http://www.2news.tv/news/local/26120054.html (Article) http://www.2news.tv/news/local/26120054 ... eo=YHI&t=a (Video) http://boibio.com/ (blog) Enjoy... Maiden

Well I'm only hopping that what I just experienced isnt what I think it is but nonetheless.....this is what happened. This last weekend I took the trailer up in the mountains, as I've done many times before. As usual for the north state valley area, it was stinking hot outside and I was pulling hills in 100* weather. No fun either as everything just gets too darned hot when its like that, but surprisingly this truck does amazingly well in staying within the tolerable running gear temps. The situation I'm posting about occurred when I crested the top of one longer grade. I was at about 5500 ft in altitude, running in 3rd gear at around 2300 RPM, and the engine was on t…

My truck is a 01 quad 6 speed ho, dual disk clutch, airdog 150, 4 inch, cold intake, stock injectors for now thank you!

I have a 02 2500 4x4 auto with edge drag box, about 2 month ago or so ( I dont drive my truck much in the summer ) it threw a p0236 and p0237 I reset the codes and waited to see if they woudl come back but they didn't the odd thing is that the truck still acts the same at about 37mph and up till 43mph I get very very bad hesitation if I am not on the skinny pedal hard it almost feels like it wont shift into OD but its not really a trans problem ( thats what I think ) the edge off or unplugged same issue happens should I just buy a boost pressure sensor and change it or can it be cleaned re installed ? if thats the problem at all and I have p1693 code when cycling the key …

Alright guys I've got a vibration somewhere that I can't seem to find. It comes on at about 67mph and goes through 71. then fades up until 75 where it gets worse again. Above 80 it starts to fade. Things I've done: All new U joints, tires balanced, checked driveshaft and all weights are still there, and the rear pinion is tight. Any idea where I can look to find it??

Hello all... I was invited by Tyler to come hang out here. He said there was a great bunch of people here. Is this true??? ;-) Anyway.. Being such a newbie.. I'm not sure if I'm being paranoid. Hopefully I can explain this correctly. When I bought the truck about 6 weeks I could feel a little vibration in the steering wheel and both pedals. I attributed it to the motor and figured it was normal being a diesel. Well.. recently it seems to me to be a little more pronounced where it seems to be resonating thoughout the cab.. It happens at idle and driving any speed. It's a very fast vibration and it kind of gives a tingly feeling to my hands and foot. Does anyone know w…

So I just had a Southbend Dual Disc Clutch installed in my NV5600 truck and the whole truck shakes. If you press the clutch pedal in the shaking stops. Once the truck warms up it shakes less. It feels like the truck is running on 5 cyl. What is going on? Did the shop install the clutch wrong? Is this normal?

I believe my drag link is wore out? The auto parts store website calls them the tie rod ends? There is some play in my steering wheel, but it doesn't wander around on the road. What I'm trying to figure out is if this is causing the vibration that I am having. It only happens between 30mph to 45mph. I don't really feel it in the steering wheel, just mainly in the floor board. The vibration is there weather I am braking, cruising, or accelerating. But like I said Its only between 30 and 45mph. Between 0-29mph and 46-above, its very smooth. Any ideas? I plan on going with moog parts. If I uploaded it right, I added a video of the drag link movement. tie…

so this might be a bit long , please bear with me . working of a 2001.5 quadcab 4x4 diesel 2500 automatic ( single piece rear drive shaft ) less than 150,000km I'm getting vibration around 80km +/- 10-15 km ( starts around 70km , goes away over 100 km ) it feels like a drive shaft or bad u joint . ( but drive shafts are good ) started off with swapping the rims and tires over to another balanced set ( both sets of wheels where clean , no mud , and weights where in place ) .... vibration still there went through the rear diff and rear drive shaft , all good , replaced rear brake pads and joints in drive shaft ( joints where still good )..... vibr…

I'm going to replace the vibration damper (harmonic balancer) this weekend and was wondering if it is directional or has to be aligned with a mark anywhere? When I resealed my timing cover a couple years ago I just slapped it back on and torqued to spec, but I figured I'd ask the genesius this time. It's an oem cummins, can't run anything else with the fuel boss... Thanks John

I've noticed a vibration in 6th gear on the highway in my '02 HO CTD. If I am gradually accelerating, the vibration begins at 72 mph, and continues on up through 80 mph (I haven't been up much higher). But if I am on the pedal, the vibration will begin as soon as I hit 6th at around 55 mph or so. The vibration feels like it's coming from the rear half the truck (I can't feel much of it in the steering wheel, but a little shake is there). Around town at lower speeds and in 1st-5th it drives smooth. I haven't heard any noises coming from the drivetrain either. Has anyone experienced this same symptom? Or have thoughts on the source? Maybe a wearing u-joint? The tires are f…

So I got a bad vibration starting around 15mph until 40mph. Shakes the drink holders, mirrors, and feels like it's under the floor board. Almost like front drivers side. I think I got a bad u joint. The one that comes from the transfer case to the front end. (No idea how to get that off). I can push that drive shaft up a little bit and it clunks. Also my carrier bearing has some play in it. Idk how much is ok or if it needs to be tight. Any help or ideas is much appreciated!

Watch this video and tell me what you think. Take note, there was about 14k behind me pulling a long grade. WOT and the engine temp starting to climb. There is no engine fan roar but as soon as I let up on the throttle you can hear the engine fan come to life and everything cooled right down. It was about 90*F outside too... I'm wondering if the fan clutch is getting worn out or is there something else going on I'm overlooking.

Viscosity DefinitionViscosity is a measure of the resistance of a fluid to deform under shear stress. It is commonly perceived as "thickness", or resistance to flow. Viscosity describes a fluid's internal resistance to flow and may be thought of as a measure of fluid friction. Thus, water is "thin", having a lower viscosity, while vegetable oil is "thick" having a higher viscosity. All real fluids (except superfluids) have some resistance to shear stress, but a fluid which has no resistance to shear stress is known as an ideal fluid or inviscid fluid (Symon 1971).

My volt gauge goes up to the normal spot, just a hair over 14 but my scangauge II reads 13.5-13.6 volts. Is this normal?