2nd Generation Dodge 24 Valve Powertrain

have had my truck a few months. It worked well for about 1000 miles and has been a nightmare ever since. without getting into all the details of all the parts I've replaced and the ridiculous number of times and ways it's left me stranded in about 3500 miles, I'll just focus on the transmission issues here: it started gradually shifting worse and worse. Initially it seemed to mostly be 3rd gear, but eventually, over the course of a couple weeks, it was all the gears. Grinds the worst and the most consistently going into 3rd but now grinds in all the gears randomly, and the shifting in general is very hard. Can't get it into reverse without putting it into se…

I have been considering installing a blocking diode for Alternative energy production to prevent AC Noise from screwing things up. 1600V*100A=160kW which is far more than our trucks output. This means that I could install it between the alternator and the power block to protect all electrical components easily and cost effectively. Installing a diode eliminates the possibility of AC current because it only allows current to flow one way. I would install it between the power block and the alternator then heat shrink to prevent electrical hazards. Another option I have thought of is creating a diode bridge, however, it is difficult to find diodes with the capabili…

Bits and pieces of this are in 2 different places here so i decided to start a new thread on this. I'll list all prices and where i bought everything at the end. I'm doing this as cheap as i can, but the way i think will be most problem free. If you see something i did wrong or need to change let me know. I started with a used exhaust flange and vacuum cylinder. Took a few days to get the butterfly free and cleaned up but its working now. I had to buy a vacuum solenoid and i am using push to connect fittings and line for most of it. Reason for this is if i have to change to an air cylinder i wont have to change my plumbing. Amazon should have the rest of my p…

All new Mechanical gauge, big line kit, Draw straw, just tried second brand new Raptor 150 and fuel pressure goes up with acceleration and rpms. I adjusted to 18 psi but the dang pressure drops back and forth between 18 and 15 at idle..... you can time it with a watch, back and forth. Then when you rev it the pressure goes up way too high. Grid heaters are disconnected and I checked with a volt meter for voltage fluctuation but it's charging steadily when engine is running I switched to a different new raptor 150 today thinking it was the pump regulator... weird... because after you adjusted it to the 18 you get going down the road and the dang pr…

Hello everyone, first post but long time lurker. Last night i noticed a coolant leak coming from my truck on the ground while i was shopping. Was almost a 12" wet spot on the ground after about an hour and a half of sitting. After getting the truck home and letting it cool off for a bit i was able to find out where it was coming from. On the head in the back passenger corner there is a 45 degree spot that has a small hole, about 3/8" diameter. Is this a freeze plug and if so has anyone replaced it without taking the head off? Not a lot of room and its close to the exhaust so im not expecting a lot. Im also hoping to properly fix it after winter if this fix isnt long term.…

OK I posted this on CF. Thanks Mike for the tip on the Overflow valve. I just finished reading your testing on it and then rechecked to see you mention that lol. Quote is what I posted over there: I did some testing according to the bluechip diesel VP44 diag page and came up with it being a fuel delivery problem. Like I said I only installed a DSV replaced the supply line to the filter, cleaned the prefilter and replaced the walbro with another one, and redid the regulator. The fuel lines used to weep fuel and would drip ocasionally. It no longer leaks but now the hard starting. Used to fire up right away. Not sure if its in the tank, or the new line or? I h…

Alright, someone please tell me this is about normal? I switched to Amsoil on my last oil change. I'm now about 4300 miles into it, and I checked the oil level recently before I went down to see my parents for christmas. Its a good thing I checked! The level was below the add mark and I had 2 quarts left of this liquid gold to add back into the safe area. I noticed the oil pressure gauge showed a little bit longer of a delay in building pressure on initial startup and pressure was a little lower than normal. Nothing that raised a red flag, but now I know why it was so. I have noticed since the change that the blowby vapor looks as though it has increased and there is …

Becareful who you let build your nv5600 sence mine failed I've manage to get it pulled out, had metal in the oil, pulled the tail housing and found that unit was built with worn out parts, the main shaft nut was put on with a chisel and almost broked and not tight, this unit came from cummins performance parts i got took dont let this happen to you

I had intermittent dead throttle which was getting worse. In Dec. I ordered a rebuilt vp44 from Midwest. Installed pump. Tried everything to get it to pump. Cranked for days with all injector lines cracked, 3 cracked, 1 cracked -- every configuration you could think of. Checked connections. Lots of fuel at input to pump. Running in-tank and stock pumps. Consulted here, justanswer, etc. Conclusion bad pump. Returned to Midwest and got replacement. Replacement no better. No fuel to output side of pump. Obviously nothing at injector lines. Lots of fuel at inlet. Nothing from return. Do I have really bad luck with pumps? And have gotten two bad rebuilt ones? …

Well Idaho got its first now. As I type this message the snow is falling and sticking in the yard. So in a hurry this morning I got my winter 265's put on, installed the grill winter fronts, and need to change a thermostat. So is your truck ready for the winter cold and snow?I still want to crawl under check both diff's, transfer case, transmission, and grease the driveline. Then I'll think I'll be ready for old man winter.

In the C1 connector on my PCM, the orange/black tracer wire that leads to the TPS has a wire tap connected to it leading to body ground. It is tapped a few inches out from the PCM. I am having no issues at this time, just curious if anyone knows what this is all about. It does not appear factory, and wiring diagram does not show that wire going to ground for any reason. 02 automatic.

Greetings. New to Forum. New to Cummin's Mods. Would appreciate any help/advice I can get. Patient: Mostly stock 2000, 3500, 4wd, Auto, Raptor f.p, VP44 i.p. Stock breather on timing cover, no breather on tappet cover. 325K but seams to run good, no appreciable smoke. Used 99% highway driving with lots of 5th wheel and trailer hauling. Illness: Massive oil leak from bottom of factory tappet cover. Engine and sub frame coated with so much oil from leaking tappet cover, it is hard to tell if hose from stock breather is dripping much oil or if anything else is leaking. Proposed Treatment: Replacement of tappet cover with billet tappet cover which …

Well guys and gals I've been incredibly busy recently. Well here is the short story. I recently replaced my pressure side fuel line from the Airdog to the VP44 all is well and no issues with that project. So the pressure starts to fall off only on wide open throttle and is getting worse over time. Any time I go wide open the lift pressure falls from 16 PSI to 13 PSI I've even seen it as low as 12 PSI. This has been going on since early this month. I have replaced fuel and water separator filters twice and it makes no difference. Also it seems the electrical is having issues. I have rebuilt a section of the harness that attaches the relay into the circuit. All points th…

I was reading the sign on our red dye fuel pump in town. It says : Warning this is off road diesel ( like I knew that ) Warning this fuel contains in excess of 500 parts per million sulpher only to be used in engines certified to use sulphured fuel.Hmmmmmmmm!End of story

Ok Gang...While I was out on my camping trip and hauling around my 31' Jayco Eagle Travel Trailer I had some weird fuel pressure problems occuring. Start up cold and get 17.5 just about 18 PSI at a idle and then pull the grade up to New Meadows, ID still holding 16 PSI which is normal and fine. But now as the day got hotter and we got down around Council, ID the pressure fell off to 12.5 at WOT and idled at 15 PSI. Hua??? While I was stopped the at one place I played with bumping the starter and you can see 17-18 PSI and then hear a change in pump pitch and the pressure fall again to 15 PSI. It's like the check ball is hanging up again. So I'm going to pull it back apart…

Noticed some abnormal noise going down the highway yesterday, so I stopped and popped the hood, only to find that both my downpipe bolts had gone off and joined the bleedin' choir invisible... So, now I need to replace them so I can put my exhaust back on. Does anyone know what size they are so I can go down to Fastenal and get some good brass replacements and proper lock washers?

What are the options for installing a fuel pressure test port? I know some to the late 2nd Gens had a schrader valve at the VP44 where fuel come in. But if you upgrade your fuel lines and replace the banjo that gets removed. I still have the banjo on the return line leaving the IP, can I put a test port there? Or is there somewhere else that is better? Thanks,

This may be a dumb question but will floating the tranny and not using clutch cause damage. I use clutch in first and reverse and downshifting. I never grind them but its not a eaton-fuller either. I have a south bend double disk clutch and get tired of doing leg lifts while driving. any info would be great. Thanks

Well gang... I figure I better get the coolant change before winter. So I desided to pull the radiator and inspect it and was surprised to find the face plugged with mud and dirt... Not greasy grime like stock crankcase vents but just mud on the lower part... So I gave everything a good cleaning... Close up... The radiator... Flushing the block... Appearance of the block currently at 173K The intercooler face. Appearance of the block at 100K... Inside the radiator... Flushing...

Any opinions on the WIX Oil Filter? I saw the WIX 51607 listed on Rock Auto for $6.71 each in a case of 12. The Fleetguards are getting crazy $ even if I buy them by the half-dozen, but still worth it I figure. They also have FRAM's but I don't think I'll put any orange filters on MY truck.I know I've seen a chart showing which filters other than the Fleetguard to use but can't find it now...