2nd Generation Dodge 24 Valve Powertrain

Anybody have a good memory? Someone posted a pic of a brake airline they used for their low fuel pressure gauge. I can't find it now. The pic had name printed on the hose. I would like to track some down. Anybody remember the post or know what line to use? At my NAPA I asked for 1/4 inch airbrake line and they wanted to sell me what's listed below. After looking up what they sell I don't want to use it. It's not even brake line and I've hit the "bold" to show where I think it is lacking. Or if anybody's used this, is it good enough? Maybe just me but I was thinking there must be something better. Thanks for any response. …

Quick question - for those who followed my mini-saga of my truck not starting this weekend. My common sense tells me it was the extreme cold here in Flagstaff that caused my truck to die on the road requiring a full system bleed to get her going again. But, I keep reading about the 1/4 tank issue and want to rule out the possibility that it died from fuel starvation. When the truck died on Friday morning, it had just over a 1/4 tank according to gauge, and my SGII told me I still had 109 miles left before empty (the SGII has been very accurate, and I have had problems with fuel level gauge past couple weeks). My question is what exactly is the 1/4 tank issue, and in spite…

Recently converted my truck to a manual NV 4500. With the conversion we found the truck would go into limp mode (2000 rpm max before dead pedal) if the tank is at a 1/4. Truck runs perfect otherwise. Tested it today with running it down to 1/4 tank and did not have the issue until it was powered down. Thinking it maybe an electrical issue from the float assembly to the pcm. Fuel pressure is 15 psi solid. We also noticed today when fueling that the fuel remaining should have be appox 8 gallons, but the tank only took 22 gallons, it should be a 35 gallon tank. Previously we tested it by being at a 1/4 tank and going to the fuel station, we left it running and fueled, …

Hey guys on my 99 24V when ever my tank gets to 1/4 tank my truck goes into a lim mode, truck will still tell me I have X amount of miles until empty. Won’t leave 1st gear or exceed 20MPH. I think it’s something todo with the sending unit but really not sure any help is greatly appreciated

Walmart has a Fram oil filter that says it is for synthetic oil and you change it at 10,000 miles. Anybody ever use it? That seems like a long time between oil changes to me. I bought it but I plan to change at 7000 miles. What say you?

2001 3500, manual A few months ago, 'no bus' showed up on my gauge cluster, and the gauges died. Truck started and ran fine, but no gauges after a few seconds past startup. Was driving it on short trips until it started stumbled and started getting loud fuel knock going down the road at 45. Brought it home, let it sit for a week. Next time I fired it up, it was smoking really good at idle, and cleared up when it was warm, but it's down on power pretty good once warm. Codes pulled at this point are: P0237, P0234, P1698, P0216 I reset the codes and only P0216 and P1698 came back. Gauge codes are 920, 921, 940 ,950, 999 …

Hello, I would like to apologize for the long post! Okay so I'll start it off with what I have done to the truck so far. It is a 1998.5 2500 5-Speed 4x4 Cummins. A little under 900 maybe 1000 miles ago I have installed a new VP44, Airdog 100, OEM Cummins connector tubes, 7x.009 100hp injectors, and I also had to have my computer rebuilt because the throttle circuit was shorted out(I may also add that the truck used to prime for 3 seconds and it no longer does, I used to be able to access system function from a scanner and no longer can, The truck sounded ever so slightly different after I installed rebuilt ecm aswell). I have a few more things coming within the next …

100HP DAP Injectors with aftermarket Bodies for 98-02 match flowed VOC? I Have a set of these and My Stockers have 147 on them, thinking of swapping these in, when I do the Valve lap tune up. I also have a HP VP44 , and was wondering if I should give it a try against my stock VP44, (was wondering if that would bode well with the 100HP injectors.) I thought maybe this would keep me from needing a tuner. My Turbo is the HX35 Let me know what you guys think

I should get my 01 running this weekend. It's been sitting 11 months without any fuel and jacked up. (I was in process of upgrading fuel system and other things in life got in the way) Fuel was bought couple months before I perked it. So fuel (25 gallons) is over 1 year old and was stored in 5 gallon plastic cans in car port. And I also changed fuel tanks. Installing an Air Dog 100 and a carter pump as a back up, fuel has been cycled through filters probably 2 or 3 times. The "new to me" fuel tank not as clean as my old one (but no more sump and I'll never have one again) Because "new" tank still has stuff in it even after getting as clean as I could…

I have a 1999 24v cummins. I'm probably the 4th owner, possibly 5th. A previous owner had installed exhaust mods, fass DDRP v02, Edge Juice with attitude. I'm not sure of any other modifications. The DDRP went out on me the other day on my way home. I limped truck home. After sitting over night and trying to start the next day, truck was showing 0 fuel psi anywhere and i couldnt hear the lift pump at all. I was limited by funds, but replaced the lift pump with a napa one (airtex i think is the brand - not ideal, i know) Truck then was showing 21psi at the top of the filter cap, but 0 psi leaving the filter cap. My edge, which i believe checks psi at the VP44 s…

(This is a project only at this time and 2nd on list) Last week neighbor asked me to give her kids car a battery jump at local grocery store. Had to use wifes CRV as my dash still out of my 01. When I arrived I couldn't get near enough to jump battery. As I'm sitting there waiting for somebody to move their car. I'm thinking I need longer and better jumper cables. Project is... I'm thinking 2/0 welding cable has would cover the project of about 25 feet. From right side battery and underneath to back bumper. Once at back bumper going to use "Anderson SB 50 amp" connector. ( Like elec forklifts use). Then about 10 foot jumper cables. And also go…

NO TEMP RISE SEEN FROM INTAKE HEATERS Ok got that part now what I did was eliminate the heater (Ca. warm wheather) to get a little more flow, I left the solenoids hooked up and insulated the heater ends in hope of fooling the computer no luck so wondering what you guys do to keep from thrown this code

Spotted a 96 3500 quad 12v 4x4 for sale on fleabag over here in Scotland for £6750 has the usual electrical gremlins like windows not working, door locks not working.... biggie is trans not changing right, seller dropped from £7500 on 2nd day of listing due to someone pointing out it will probably need a trans rebuild, don't think it will come up in searches from the USA due to seller not adding international.

Does anyone know if there is a native wire that receives 12v (when the key is turned on) by the rear bumper/trailer connection area? I like to have the option to view my rear view cam at any time but don't want it to be constantly on. I haven't found one so far and thought I'd ask before I run a long wire back there.

does anyone know if the 12V will accept a 24V head?

Hey guys, Im looking for any recs on a 12 volt switched wire to hook my 2low kit up to that is convenient under the dash. I was thinking of going with the upper cig lighter, but if there are any that are easier to get to id entertain the feedback. Thanks.

Okay, so I decided to replace the terminals on my 2001 dodge Cummins so I replaced all 4 battery terminals and when I went to start it up it started right up but then my check engine light illuminated and when I went to drive it it was in limp mode and it ran like ****. I did the key trick and 1488 and 0237 code came up so I replaced my map sensor and the problem is still occurring.

98.5 24v auto trans Back in Sept I was playing around and got on the truck pretty hard, oit of no where it fell on its face and check engine light came on. Turn the truck off an back on it high reved on start & high idle. Got codes for grid heater(always have it since I bought the truck), apps sensor & no bus code. No luck with the apps reset and after digging around i realized there was only 1 nut(which had backed off some) holding the vp on and it was some what loose. I replaced the apps With a cheap Amazon sensor to get me by and got new nuts for the pump. I did check the main pump nut an it was right an toqued to spec. After replacing the apps, I bled the…

Not to long ago I did the w-t ground mod with the 150amp breaker on the charge lead from the alternator to the battery (pass side) and it tripped a couple times shortly after install. On the advise here I disconnected the relays for the grid heaters and no more trouble until yesterday. Grid heaters still disconnected, I fired up the truck to run to town, made it about a mile when I noticed the "check gauges" light and my voltage was down to around 10 volts according to the dash gauge. Popped the hood and found the breaker tripped, not sure why. Did not have the lights on, a/c was off. Shouldn't have been any major power draw at the time.

Aloha - I am back from Hawaii! And apologies if this was answered already somewhere else. Here is what happened: It's a gen II 2002 24 valve diesel 3500 Changed VP44 and ECU in Jan 16 - truck ran fine other than issue with TPS - which we changed as well (sometime spring 16). Had "no-start" issue with error 1689 a couple of weeks ago and swapped out the fuel relay for a new one - truck ran fine but pretty rough - felt like missing cylinder. Today truck started, drove around for a bit (but ran rough); we shut it down, tried to restart a while later and now, no start again. Pulled codes and it is now reading 1689 and 1690 - swapped re…