2nd Generation Dodge 24 Valve Powertrain

Help! No juice down to clutch interlock wire, can't find a reference to fuse location, anyone had any experience with this problem, thinking about putting in a push button start! o1 Ram. email bwbrewco@gmail.com

Hey all, I have to smog my truck for the first time. I have a mechanical fuel pump as the stock pump died. I usually have the smarty take care of the error code but sine I have the stock tune loaded, the transfer pump code pops up and triggers the engine light. Is this gonna be an issue with smog? Im thinking of trying to put a dummy load on the pump plug of maybe 5ohms? Does this seem plausable or is there an easier way around this? Thanks

What do you guys think of this stuff? Those hffr tests or whatever they are kind of go over my head so I'm wondering if someone would take a look at this and tell me what you think of it. http://www.ca40g.com/home.php

I have a 2001 (2nd gen. Cummins) 2500 4x4 SRW with the CAD system on the front Axle and needed a few questions answered. 1st post BTW and just joined..... The PO has disconnected the switch for the 4x4 at the CAD (the connector that plugs into the CAD). The switch/sender is still connected to the CAD but there is no connector anywhere NEAR this. I've looked up and down and it just is not there, so my question is, where does the connector plug into that runs to the CAD (i.e. as in where on WHICH wiring harness is it Tee-d off of)? Can a replacement be ordered and then just plug into the wiring harness on one end and the CAD switch on the other? Any pics showing both end…

Anyone know how to test the vaccuum for the CAD 4x4 axle. Specifically - not sure if I have a problem with the CAD itself - or vacuum isn't correct on the two lines (red and black). Is there an easy way to test a) There is vacummb) Its the correct vaccum pressure I suspect my main issue is the actuator/thing on top of the transfer case - as it was pretty dirty when I reinstalled my tranny - so I cleaned out as best I could. Just want to know what I could do to test each component - before I go out and buy a posilok. thanks

looking for advice from anyone who has done a cad delete and free spin kit. Who did you go through? EMS is the only place I have found that offers a 32 spline delete kit for the 00-02 Dana 60. What do you do to have 4wd indication (dash light) after delete? Leaning towards Spyntec shorties anyone have first hand experience? I’m going to have the front end apart to replace ball joints and I’m seriously contemplating on cad delete and free spins. Huge chunk of $ I know but I may just do it. Also axle seals hear they’re a real pain? Any advice would be very much appreciated

Passing on a message for CajFlynn from a cell call... Could someone take a look at a truck for me down in the Houston, TX area... Please contact CajFlynn at 303-570-4325

Ok Gang... I got a phone call from Cajflynn tonight and he's got a shuttering problem with his truck. I'm going to relay this phone call the best I can. So let put our heads together and help him out. He got some internet access on his phone... Conditions... Mild hill climbs at about 63 MPH steady or acceleration the problem (shutter) occurs right at the crest of a hill. Auto Trans temp is <100*F and the rear end about 125*F. Pulling about 800-900*F worth of EGT at 18 PSI of boost. Currently towing about 5K pound trailer. Now The power puck is traded out with the Quadzilla XPT currently but is shutters the worse with this combo at about 63 MP…

Hey guys! I've been lurking around this site for a while. I've gotten lots of valuable info for keeping my trucks going. I have a 2001 2500 that has been giving me issues for a while(2 years now)- hopefully I can find some knowledge here. the truck runs fine when its cold, as it heats up the power will cut out, then come back. I have taken it to a couple of mechanics and they haven't been able to figure out the problem.we ran it one day with the Modus attached- TPS is fine, CPS is fine, only thing we could see funny was that as it was cutting out/ powering up the Calculated load value was jumping from 0% to 100%. anyone know how the computer calculates the load value?…

I'm looking to make my trailer light plug into an "isolated" power source to charge my camper battery. When I say "isolated" I mean it's "on" when the truck is running and "off" when the truck is not running. Currently the trailer outlet is always "on", regardless of whether the truck is running or not. Is there an easy way to change this? I was going to follow the steps in this thread http://www.expeditionportal.com/forum/threads/77503-How-to-make-a-cheap-isolated-dual-battery-setup-for-50 , but can't find an available fuse in either of my fuse boxes that is only hot when truck is on. Any ideas?

Please feel free to add or correct this list.Put the cam in the freezer over nite.First with the key out, turn windshield wiper on slow speed. Turn the key on so the wipers start moving, turn the key off when the wipers are full up. This will help you get the pushrods from 5 and 6 out without hitting the wiper arms. Remove the plastic cowl and the 2 rubber grimits.Disconnect batterys if you want (i dont)Remove the valve cover. 10mmI like to get small plastic bags with zip ties mark all the bags 1,2,3,4,5,6 ,start in front remove the rockers, 14mm nut on the pushrods.10mm on the rockers.Some like to remove the side cover to see the dowl rods into the tappetsTap the wood do…

I know this might not be a leak most encounter, but when I rebuilt my engine, I used a little RTV on the o ring for the cam plug in the back of the block, did good for 120K or so, then I added Lucas oil supplement, WOW at start up had near 100psi oil pressure, started leaking like a sieve, any way this time no RTV on O ring but I did use Permatex sleeve retainer # 64000/ and the Surface prep/activator # 24163. Hoping it will last me more than 16 mo's.

Can the cam position sensor be tested with a DMM for the correct resistance? If so, what should the value be? This is on an 01 2500 auto. Trying to track down what's causing a P1488 code among others. The trouble-shooting procedure tells us to replace the cam position sensor but we've done that a couple times. Any help would be appreciated. Thanks.

OK gang i have so questions about the CPS. First off i have a miss at ideal and up to about 1100 after that smooth as glass. I have been through everything I even tried putting in my 225 HP injectors to see it my 150 hp are having some kind of issue. Had them tested and they came back good. I have taken every connection apart and cleaned them. I Then cleaned all my grounds and still the same. So all i can think of is the CPS. Issue number two while driving down the road my truck has a lot of engine noise. Then like magic it like the engine changes the timing. It is half as load and can only hear the turbo. Normally it seem to quiet down when i am pulling hills or when i a…

I have replced my cam sensor everytime (almost) everytime I replaced my vp and now I keep getting CEL. I erase the code and about two days later it comes back on. No miss no nothing running good. I have about three of them at the shop, I can put it in no problem it just pisses me off because its about three months old. What will the cam sensor do if I just keep running it? I guess I should put one the the tool box though

It finally stumbled a little this morning. I watched the tach drop a little,I mean just a little then the motor, like turning on the AC and the light came on. What a joke, as many cam sensors as I threw at this truck back when I had all that trouble and now I get to use one of the three new one's I have.

Yea it's time to move on to the 05 I just bought. When you can change out a cam sensor in 15 min. you done it to many times.

Hi, just starting on this project. Have a 2002 Ram 3500 HO, (assumed since 6 speed) that someone put at 1998.5 (august 98) 215 SO engine in. Runs like complete crap. Idles great, but wont go over 60 mph. Misses and stumbles off idle. Has the persistent Cam Sensor performance code and the tach quits after 7 seconds of startup. So have a 2001 gear, timing case and CPS on the way. Also has teh correct 2002 MAP sensor. Any tips or tricks?

My truck has a small oil leak, just a drop or two at a time but I was told it appears to be from the back side of the timing cover. I'm contemplating having the leak fixed and I figured if the cam has to come out to do it, possibly toss in a different one. I was looking at the Colt cams stage 3 or Big stick as I think it was called. Is anyone using one of these or know someone who is? Just curious if it was worth it. Just saw the other post regarding the big stick, lol.

i had a weird one today. i came down the off ramp and made my stop. went to take off and as i am taking off truck died. rolled to a stop and put it in park and it fired right back up but i got a CIL and the code was PO720 which is output shaft speed sensor could it cause it to die like that . it sucked cause i had on coming traffic as it died .