2nd Generation Dodge 24 Valve Powertrain

Friday I serviced the transmission, including taking out the valve body to replace plastic accumulator piston with metal one, (manual valve?) to allow flow to torque converter while in Park. I have noticed the last couple of days that the truck - even when warm after 30 mile drive - idles higher than normal, around 1250 versus 800ish RPM. This is in park or neutral. The tach isn't wonky, I only looked at the tach because it sounded fast. Idle while in drive seems normal. I have checked the transmission fluid after 30 mile drive home on interstate, truck in neutral on level ground and it's in the middle of the hatch mark, same as the last 30k miles. Fluid is not "foa…

Started up today to hook up my trailer for the next morning. It was chilly so I left it idle about 5 min. to give the batteries a charge because I knew I would only be moving a short distance. Got under my trailer and got a hiccup. While dropping the trailer on it did it twice again. Pulling up my hill to turn around it did it once under load and was fine after that. I'm hoping it was a fluke and I'll find out tomorrow if it continues, but I'm just wondering what to look for. I'm leaning towards something electrical but would like to hear from others. Truck ran fine the day before.

Hello everyone, If you look at my sig, you will see I don't have a normal Dodge Cummins truck. I have all the looks of an old Ford, the power of a 24v, and the electrical gremlins of a shoehorned harness. My stubborn side has finally given in to ask for diagnosis help because it seems there are many different things that could be causing the issues I'm experiencing. Context: To make a long, complicated story as condensed as I can, I sold my truck because I'm moving to Germany in a few months and it would NOT fit on the roads there. I sold it to a kid on Fort Bragg and I should have known better. Zero mechanical experience but swore up and down h…

I have a 2002 HO with 241K miles. It has been sitting for the last year or so as I haven't been able to get it running. Was driving along one day and it shut off, never to run again. Overhead reads ccd after about 10 seconds. No start, no wait to start light, no transfer pump. My generic code reader doesn't indicate any codes present. I have messed around with it on and off for the last year or so, trying about everything in every forum I've found. As I'm writing this, I have every module disconnected (except overhead) and no difference. Initially I had around 1 volt to ground on each of the bus terminals. At the moment, it's up to about 2.5v on each terminal. …

I got a guy that has been in touch with me by email and been trying to figure out his CCD Bus problems. So far nothing I suggested works. Currently he can see the 2.5 and 2.4 vold bias voltage at the OBDII port he's only got the ECM and PCM plugged in to the bus all other modules (Radio, ABS, AirBag, etc.) are unplugged to try and isolate the problem. But still it will not communicate... The engine will start and run... Tachometer functions but all other gauges are dead. No AirBag or ABS lights... But unable to read error codes at all. I'm hoping one of you might have an idea...

is the CCD the same thing as CAN bus? does the obd2 access the CCD?

Well gang... My Kenwood MP3 player is actiung up and giving me fits. It was good ol' Mom that got me thinking... Well I grabed a old CD and flipped it up-side down and got a good grab on it and notice that when the disc was inserted you could feel it grab a bit strong on the label face. Hmmm... It also scratch the label face pretty bad... (Dirty) But I never let it go in... So this evening I start thinking and grab the scratched CD now and rapped a old tee shirt over it and dampen it with alcohol and inserted this shirt cover disc part way. The alcohol acts like a mold lubricant and allowed the roller to spin and against the tee shirt covered disc and clean the rollers.…

Trucks been throwing the 1689 code. I started to test the truck to see how often it throws the cel. 1689 every time. It will cut the power for a few seconds EVERY time it hits 2500ish rpms, it only happens at 2500rpm's. why would it be doing it at a specific rpm? I thought for a while it was only doing it under hard acceleration but its cutting out at 2500?????? Any ideas???

so i have a 2001 24valve 6 speed and i screwed up on welding some exhaust on the truck, i had the batteries unhooked but i forgot to move my ground when welding a exhaust hanger from the frame back to the exhaust and when i tried to weld the exhaust it searched for the ground through the engine block and so far i found that it took out my CTM and ABS module, when i hooked the battery back up the headlight stayed on and the wipers stayed on also with the abs pump running, i narrowed it down to i uplugged the ctm and the lights and wipers stop, the truck would start for few seconds then die so i unhook the pcm and truck will run and take pedal up to about 2000rpm, with the …

anyone have info on these? are there any kinda easy to install kits? i look online but only see things for the big rigs. i like the idea of this type of filer, not for the extended changes. but for the better filtration. i'll still change around 7500 miles as per the cummins manual for my type of driving. thank you for any info you my provide.

I just got a 1999 Dodge Cummins in the shop with a clutch issue. I got it pulled out today and this truck has a single disc ceramic clutch. The clutch has completely eaten a deep groove approximately 1/16" to nearly a 1/8" in the pressure plate and about 0.010 groove in the flywheel. Surprising there was zero hotspots in either face. The friction plate was still in good shape but it completely ruined the pressure plate and flywheel will need to be turned. This truck is stock for the most part other than Edge Juice tuner. So for those of you considering ceramic clutch I wouldn't advise it. As this happens to be the second ceramic clutch that the previous owner installed an…

No general diesel so it’s going under second gen I guess. Have you ever used cetane Amsoil and a couple other brands. My truck seems to like it. Mileage I really don’t know. Cost etc 1999 24 v 275 rv and edge, What about the new trucks and the ones in the middle Good-bad or ugly. Let the Good discussions begin I really want to know

Ok gang... Another find I got to give credit to Rcannon over at TheDieselGarage.com for the document he sent me. Its the SAE testing of diesel fuel. I had to throw a quick post about cetane boosters and the relationship of BTU content. This just proves that high cetane fuel tend to produce less power and it also proves that high cetane winterized fuels is the reason why everyone complains about poor MPG's in the winter. Now since 2 cycle oil tends to be a natural cetane reducer this is why most of use see a small gain in MPG and the quietier engines... The fuel tends to burn slower and without the knock. More to come as I dig the information up... ;)

My 24 valve is a RWD and not a 4x4. I have one tire pulling and would like to change that to a limited slip so both would pull if needed. I have been stuck in the yard of a house we rented after heavy rains. I had a rear end changed over to limited slip by a garage that was supposed to be best. After parts and labor it was a shocking $1,200.00 and that was back in the early 90s. It went out in less than 9 months, completely shot. I wished I had done it differently. So with all of that being said should I seek out another Master Mechanic to add the parts to make it limited slip or find a rear end from a yard and go that route. Maybe as long as I stay on solid ground it wil…

Today, after FLUSHINg P/S System, i Pulled of my 4-yr old BHAF Air Filter to replace with new, When i pulled Boot off of turbo, there it was,, the Compressor wheel blades were Damaged, "Not wiped out" but few of the edges of blades are frayed up pretty good, but there's no excessive play in the shaft and the blades hasn't been rubbing the housing.... im trying to post pictures

HowdyMy third post, yee ha. I did my research, made sure I had the correct coolant, followed the procedure and turned the engine on to get vacum to turn heater on. I drained it but when I refilled it, it only took 4 gallons. I was told with refill, it was 5 to 5.5 gallons. Any thoughts? also, some FYI, I had to replace my ball joints, and track bar at 60,000 miles. I put Moogs on so am hoping these will last. MarkFlagstaff, AZ

I replaced my turbo with this one. http://theturboplace.com/-S200GX-E-Dodge-Ram-Upgrade-Turbo--12769880001_p_290.html And replaced the manifold with a stock one. It had a crack in it at on the flange where the turbo mounts on. Now I'm getting a plume of white smoke upon acceleration. Have't tried driving it. The truck only has just over 100k miles on it. Fuel pressure is at 15 PSI at idle. Which is what it was before. I'm running Bosch RV 275 injectors which I put in in Oct 2018 I have no error codes. What should I look for next? Any ideas would be appreciated.

I experienced code 1688 a while ago and also experienced a dead pedal (completely dead, does nothing). yesterday I replaced the 44 with a new one, got the truck running but the pedal does absolutely nothing. any ideas? thanks, greg

I guess I'll be changing a IP next week so I have been reading over manuals to see what I'll need. I don't have a gear puller, I found this one on Geno's http://www.genosgarage.com/product/cgp010/tools. Is there any reason it wouldn't work? Something better? Also, I figured that I'd put in a fuel pressure test adapter since I don't currently have that option. Maybe it will come in handy. Thoughts?

Anyone have any opinions on what to use and how to go about this process? Thanks.