2nd Generation Dodge 24 Valve Powertrain

Would this mod be worth it... Thinking about installing a manual override switch for the fan. My temp gauge goes to about 210 on hard upgrades pulling my trailer (normal I understand) and wondering if it would make any sense to start the fan earlier (somehow) if so how would I hook that up.

First time posting but I’ve reading and gaining from this site for quite some time . Thus the title of this post. I’m really struggling with my truck and I’ve read just as much as I possibly can. My background (just so no one is afraid to through anything complicated at me) is 10 years of diagnosing and repairing medium and heavy duty trucks and now about to reach my 5th year of being a shop manager. Sorry this might be long winded. My 99 is a fairly new purchase and it wasn’t acting up when I got but now it’s getting terrible. The two main issues are : when I first leave my house and start driving it will (only once or twice) loose power but it’s …

Can a failed or failing MAP sensor cause my truck to be very sluggish down low and continuously the P0234 code? I once upon a time had an edge ez but it’s gone now. The boost elbow that came with it is still installed though. I have a fass lift pump and a FP gauge. Otherwise all stock. Truck feels like a total pig off the line and doesn’t feel like it starts making any power until 1800 rpm or so. Also has trouble holding highway speed in OD on any hills even empty.

How long do you have to keep the batteries disconnected to drain the computer, in order to reboot? I need it to be rebooted so that it will shift out of 1st gear (automatic trans) without removing the relay & manually shifting only giving me 2nd, & 3rd gears.

I have noticed a big increase in the amount of smoke/vapor from my vent tube, seems to happen since the weather turned hot. Day time or night I can see the vapor coming out around the truck. Runs fine no loss of mpg. Doesn't smoke anymore out of the oil filler hole. Doesn't use any oil and I only have a drip or two fall into the driveway. A/c controls, 4x4, and cruise all work as normal. I did the moparman mod this winter so it's my first year with it. Is this normal? Or should I be looking into something?

So have everything mechanically installed but cant get it to start. I have tried grounding the neutral safety switch but still no start. Help please

Hello. I used the search option here to find out about my P0606 code. It sounds like my ecm has given up the ghost from what I have read. But I will let all the things that it is doing and hopefully y'all can confirm that it is time for a new ecm. I did a ac noise check. I'm getting .092 volts for a ac noise check. When I start the truck it will not rev higher than 1400 rpm, it goes from idle and jumps to 1400 rpm that is the only rpm range it 850 or 1400 that's it. I replaced the apps and it made no difference. Also the wait to start light will come on sometimes and sometimes not at all and other times there will be a delay in it coming on. I put my obd LX…

I'm having trouble removing the back 3 injector lines. Not from the head but the brackets holding them down on the deck. Do I need to remove the engine lift bracket to do this, because those bolts wont budge. Where exactly are these bolts located that hold down these lines? Thanks

Need an ecm anyone know the best replacement for 2002 24v auto?

New here and can really use some help. This might not be the right section to post this but i figured id have better luck here. I just recently finished swapping a 24v into my ford and have been having a problem getting it to start. Before I say this my heater grid is not hooked up and i know its horrible on the motor but the truck will only start with a small hit of ether.Once its started it runs perfect. Idles great sounds smooth and revs up like it should.Once you shut it off and try to start it right back up it wont start. It wont even sputter or sound like its trying to start. The vp44 is brand new and was part of the problem originally when i first started trying to…

Okay I’m not sure I fully understand what putting in a lockup switch will do. I understand how it works and why to put it in but I need to know exactly what changes when it comes to drivability. I guess what what I would like is a 3 way lockup switch that 1. Has completely stock lockup function 2. Can lock/unlock the t/c on demand 3. Can just prevent lockup from happening until commanded by the switch and then can unlock via brake pedal. Is that hat how they all work? Or am I asking for something that doesn’t exist. Ultimately I want to keep it as stock as possible for people like my wife or whoever may use my truck bu…

Start truck it’s fine,put in gear shuts off,out in reverse shuts off?what should I do

Last fall my truck started my truck started experiencing symptoms of VP44 failure. My truck is a H.O with 142xxx miles. What happens is after driving it for a period of time longer than say a half hour and shutting the truck off, if I would try starting it again about a half hour after it was off the CEL would come on. The truck would idle fine but when i go to hit the throttle it revs to 1400 RPM uncontrollably, it feel's like its either giving it the amount of fuel it needs for idle or WOT, no in between. It also won't rev pass 1400, I'm assuming that is due to reduced power from the CEL. So the truck would be idling fine for a while and then it would just cut out rando…

As I was driving home the other night I did a 5th gear heavy acceleration. Just as the truck really started getting goin, it shut off and is yet to start again. It will crank like normal but wont turn over. Cycling the key these codes were shown: 0122, 0500, 0460, 0222, 1693. I looked them up but need more opinions. Not listed in my sig is a fast 150 titanium. I'll fix that. Thanks in advance.

MM suggested I post up after speaking with him on the telephone yesterday afternoon. this all started after some cold weather here. leaving work one day and just died on me a few times, hard to start and then finally nothing. here goes working on a 1999 2500 5.9 l . it is hi-line w/auto transmission. key fobs never worked for me. trouble is it is very very hard to start. finally got it to run yesterday, let it run for about 5 minutes and turned it off. it didn’t want to start again. then when turning the key to start and run position, no lift pump noise. i waited 30 minutes and cycled the key again and heard the lift pump running. …

Anyone know the bolt size for the vacuum pump body to case mount? Finally figured out what this major oil leak was. Thought it was the tappet cover all along but just noticed one of the mounting bolts for the vacuum pump to case mount was MIA ?‍♂️ not sure how after 290K miles a bolt randomly falls out

Got a P1698 this morning. Recently had my ECM repaired by ACS. The truck has been running fine since installing the repaired ECM, and doing the ground mod. Leave for work this morning and the truck is stumbling and billowing white smoke which I know is due to the failing VP44. However, the dash dings, lose all gauges, ABS, brake, Air bag, CEL, low fuel all illuminate. I cycled the truck on and off two times and the gauges were working, but had a CEL light, only codes P1698, P0216. Still able to pull codes with scanner. Drove to work fine. Went to move my truck and no bus again, no gauge cluster, and all lights illuminated. But the truck…

Hey, guys! I'm 17 years old and getting ready to start driving a truck to local farmers markets and have a bit of a problem. Me and my dad are the proud owners of a 98 Dodge Ram 3500 refrigerated box truck. It has the Cummins 24valve and an auto tranny. The problem is that the transmission doesn't shift into overdrive properly. It has several lights that come on in the dash like the trans temp light, the airbag light, the o/d off light and some others that I cant remember. Funny thing is, sometimes when we're sitting at a stoplight ect, all the lights in the dash go out, and the trans shifts fine! The company that had the truck before us put another used tranny in it, …

Hey Everyone! My 2000 3500 has a block with no crank position sensor port behind the starter. I just bought this truck. The previous owner or someone put an external crank tone ring on the front of the balancer with a home made cheezy bracket that holds the crank position sensor bolted to the front oil pan bolts. The truck runs ok but not as good as my other 2000 cummins. I think the crank sensor timing may be off, and it sounds like I have an injector knock. Is there an ECM I can get that eliminates the crank sensor? Someone also told me that I can wire the cam sensor and crank sensor together to fix this. If not should I convert it to the P7100 pump? This is going to be…

I have a 99 24 valve and I took it to outlaw diesel in Indy because I wasn’t seeing the boost results I wanted they fixed a boost leak and a fuel line like but said I don’t have enough rpm to spool to the boost I want I have an aura 5000 turbo 150 injectors 4K Hamilton springs arp head studs south bend dual disc quad adrenaline banks intake and I’m sure a few more performance parts I’m forgetting but it’s only hitting 23 psi with the tuner all the way up does anyone know what’s up before I take it somewhere else