2nd Generation Dodge 24 Valve Powertrain

1998.5 dodge ram 2500 24v leaks tons of oil out of the breather tube, truck runs great and gets great fuel economy, oil does not smell like diesel and doesn't gain oil, it loses a ton, so far in 2500 miles I've lost almost 3 gallons, making sure to keep it up. Very odd considering how well the truck runs. I've seen someplace it could be something to do with vacuum leaks? Any insight?

I've been around the forums with this truck for years. I'm a DIY gal with minimal mechanical knowledge, enough to be dangerous, enough to get in trouble. We've been plagued by some gremlins for many years and recently we purchased a friend's very well maintained 3rd gen with 77,000 miles and no known gremlins (yet). I loved our 2nd gen, been a great truck that has seen better days cosmetically, and I think it will make a nice pickup for someone who likes really loud trucks and doesn't mind doing some work to bring her back to her glory days cosmetically. However, I feel to sell her as is would be a big financial hit because of the following issues. …

I know the moon is 238,000 miles roughly to the moon. If you double that is 476,000 miles to the moon and back. Now time to load Beast back up and head back to the moon. Again another 238,000 miles.

Does anyone have the instructions to have high idle controlled off of 3 toggle switches and some resistors? They used to be available here but they have been taken down.

I've been wanting to get the high idle enabled in my truck, dealer wants more than I think it's worth so next option is to get a smarty and plug it in which will enable this feature. I know DAP will "rent" them out for this but you basically buy it then return it which ties up $650+ until they get it back. Figured I'd ask if someone has one I could borrow to get this enabled.

A month ago I started having surging and idling problems. I checked all the usual, fuel filters, pressure and everything in check. At hwy speed you can feel it surging in fact at all speeds of course at over 2500 rpm not so much. If you set the cruise control it goes away. I can watch my throttle on my adrenaline and its fluctuating up and down when using accelerator. At idle at a stop it will go as low as 500 rpm and Ive watched it climb as high as 1800 rpm. The apps was about a year old so I thought that had to be it.Put a new one in and roll along here for a bout 100 plus miles and the new apps starts doing the same thing again. No codes except the grid heaters which i…

And the premium prices being paid to get them

So I have a FASS titanium series waiting at the house for me to get home and do the install. What’s the consensus on suction? Draw straw or sump?

Hey all, hope some of you who know these trucks better than I do can help me out here. So I've gotten to the point I believe the truck is running the way it should and I am ready to buy the Quadzilla for it, but I wanted to pick your brains here just to see if I missed anything or if there's other things I can check. My main goal is to have the truck running 100% correctly stock before adding the tuner so that way I can maximize the potential of the tuner. I didn't want to throw the tuner on when the truck isn't running to its full potential in stock form. The truck is mechanically running perfect, what I'm looking for is things to test and check electrical wise. I'll lis…

Back in July, I installed an adjustable idle solenoid on my truck. I wanted the engine to run at about 1150 rpm fast idle for winter time warm-ups and for summertime air conditioning during hot weather, should I need to be parked for a while and want to be comfortable. After some research, I decided on an AC Delco carburetor idle stop solenoid, part number 214-2138. It looked durable and the idle stop was adjustable. Under the hood I removed the APPS mounting bracket and fabricated a mount for the idle stop solenoid bracket to bolt to. I welded the new idle stop solenoid mount to the APPS mounting bracket. I installed the idle stop sol…

As the title reads, yes my 5 speed NV4500 ate itself at 184k. Some quick background, I bought the truck used with 138k on the clock. Now after some conversations with @Mopar1973Man I should have dumped the oil in everything on truck right away after purchase and replaced with new but i did not (now regretting it). I dont believe the fluid was ever changed. Now, I have been searching for a rebuilder near me to get this done. I was thinking of doing it myself but decided it may be best to leave it to someone that knows these things better thatn i do. Ive never rebuilt one before. Problem is, i cant find anyone around me that does it anymore. So no…

I know this topic has been beat to death. Sorry! I just bought a 2001 4 x 4 five speed with the NV 4500. At this time there has been no failure. My thinking is open up the back of the transmission verify torque and weld the nut to get some more life before an ultimate rebuild. Maybe that would be a waste of time and effort? TIA

Well my friends truck with NV4500 has a problem with 5th gear nuts we have fixed it a few times now over a couple years now. 1st repair put a fancy new nut with set screws and 3 small welds about 1/4 inch wide. Mig welded nut to shaft. Lasted maybe a year 2nd repair he put the nut back on and mig welded the hell out of it, all the way around the shaft. A couple months later on a long trip with trailer the shaft broke completely where the weld was. 3rd repair we put an after market shaft in it with full splines and threads. A very expensive shaft. It had a new washer and nut with it we also replaced the 5th gear. The nut had 3 set …

Recently converted my truck to a manual NV 4500. With the conversion we found the truck would go into limp mode (2000 rpm max before dead pedal) if the tank is at a 1/4. Truck runs perfect otherwise. Tested it today with running it down to 1/4 tank and did not have the issue until it was powered down. Thinking it maybe an electrical issue from the float assembly to the pcm. Fuel pressure is 15 psi solid. We also noticed today when fueling that the fuel remaining should have be appox 8 gallons, but the tank only took 22 gallons, it should be a 35 gallon tank. Previously we tested it by being at a 1/4 tank and going to the fuel station, we left it running and fueled, …

Hello, im new here and to the 2nd gen community. Just picked up a 1999 dodge ram 24v a week or so ago from my uncle. Truck has sat for 5 years but fired up first try when i put a new driver side battery. secondary battery sits at 12.4v after charging it but primary wouldnt hold a charge. First drive, the car would approach redline at 30 mph, but after like 2 minutes, it fixed itself. Then i had the dreaded unlocking/locking of the TC around 45-55 mph. I did the @W-T ground and alternator wire relocation and now it does not like to shift or lock the converter when im on the highway. At 60 ish mph rpm is at 2500. I did the APPS reset after waiting a few hours with the batte…

Hi, Ive had code P0122 so i checked the apps voltage and at idle it was .39 and max was 3.58. So i loosened the two T20 torx on the apps and adjusted it up to .535.. then, i calibrated to the ecm by disconnecting battery for 20 minutes, reconnecting, key on, depress accelerator once, let off and key off.. my new apps range is .53 to 3.54. ive run it but not driven it. seems to run the way it had, which is good. no problem with how it runs. ive had trouble with it shifting, it doesnt want to shift down as quickly as i think it should. and it seems to shift up sooner into the next gear than maybe it should. seems to lock up sooner than it should. I dont r…

If anyone remembers my old post, I have done a bunch of stuff to it and just did a ton more this last month. Decided to make a new thread because the other one was getting old and enough has changed I think I need to start over. So this began with me fighting what seemed like EMI in a particular spot in town. At the time with the Edge programmer, I could watch the boost signal drop to 0 then back up to the true value and back to 0 again, truck was fluctuating between tuned and not tuned is what it felt like. Then as I left the area the tuner would kick in again and it would pump smoke out and off it would go. No amount of throttle would change its behavior. It…

Hi, new member here. I am diagnosing a no crank problem for the last few months. Turn the key and nada, no clickity click, nothin. the first 19 times, i tapped the starter with a steel bar and it'd start then start normally for a week or so. . I dont think tapping actually had any effect now, i did think it was the starter. but starter works great. maybe a relay going bad and a few seconds to reset ? the 20th time, i had to hotwire the starter solenoid and it fired right up, then it worked a few more times like normal. now, after the 21st time,, i have to hotwire the solenoid each time i go to start. I checked the voltage at the reverse/neutral s…

So here lately it's been getting colder and things have been working just fine. WTS light comes on, then off and she fires up just fine until....... When getting ready to leave work a few days ago I went to start her up.lile always but when I hit the key she didn't fire right away like normal. It hit one 1 or 2 cylinders and began to chug and huff smoke like mad. It caught me off gard so I immediately shut her dow to evaluate the situation. I listened for the lift pump, it's working, but I noticed the voltage gauge wasn't dipping like it should with the draw if the grid heaters. So I then cranked her over and let it run, it fired on a few cylinders again and after a…

I'm almost done installing my adrenaline. Where is the best place to install the transmission temp. sensor. The place listed in the adrenaline install instruction, or in the pan? When my trans was done, they included a deep pan with a place for a sensor. The instructions show a different place on the pass side of the trans. My first thought says the place on the pass side would keep the wiring in a better spot. But I've alway thought the place in the pan is where most people put them. Any recommendations? This and the wire tap are all that left. Then I get to put the interior back together. Finding a "clean" place to mount the head unit on the ins…