2nd Generation Dodge 24 Valve Powertrain

So I was messing with my scanner just figuring out how to use it more, it doesn’t have check engine light. Even though I do have a speed sensor code. Anyways I did an all module scan and this showed up...(along with 3 ABS codes)....Can’t seem to find anything on it. Does anyone have any clue what it means?

Hi to all! I'm new and I have a problem with my dodge ram 2500 cummins (1999 yrs).At the morning when I go to turn on it, the ligth"wait to start" flash and the engine don't start until I disconnect the battery terminal and immediately reconnect it. From that moment engine work without problems.I hope someone of you can help me! Thanks

I just want to see if I can clear the air up a bit on a few things and talk Cummins related additives From what I understood, in the past Cummins had never officially endorsed a specific additive nor advised using one. I believe they stated that as long as you were using adequate fuel, there was no need, unless you needed protection from gelling or worried there was a lot of water in the fuel for some reason. A lot of people seemed to think that Cummins endorsed stanadyne, but from what I've read, it seems that it was a misunderstanding. A person closely related or that worked for Cummins said that he really liked stanadyne or said some great things about it a…

So my Cummins 53 block with 387,000 and change lost compression along with other issues in cylinder 5 and 6 this still stems from the previous post about injection pump failure. I intend to rebuild so looking at options 1- find 24 valve non 53 donor rebuild and install or if in good enough shape don't rebuild 2- buy a 12 valve rebuild with donor parts from 24 valve pistons head and such and make p-pumped 24 valve. Right now it seems cheaper and an overall better option to go for number 2. Tell me what you guys and gals think I need to make a wise choice here the next 400k depend on it.... lol

I have to say I'm not a fan of the dry fit seals used on the crank. I've had bad luck with leaks. I have replaced a few on my own and others engines. The crank looks fine, sometimes I clean them up with fine Emery cloth. I use the seal installer that usually comes with it and center the seal housing as best I can before tightening the bolts. I never tried the shaft saver ring type most parts stores give me deer in the headlights look when I ask about a kit. Does it require machine work? Anyone use an alternative traditional seal?

Pretty informative video, Cummins Injector Testing.

Has any body notice the intake on this engine ? Is it bigger than the one of the 24v ? Just wondering.

I'm going to refer to my VP44 post for the first part here. So you should be to this point if you have done all the work on the link above. So we'll continue to remove the tappet cover and replace the tappet cover gasket on the driver side of the engine. On my truck, the leak is very minor but I want to get this resolved before it gets worse. Being I'm already replacing a VP44 it just a good time to do the tappet cover gasket and fix that oil leak. You need to remove the two 15mm bolts for the rear hoist ring. This is so you can gain access to the #6 injection line nut at the rear of the head. Now you need to remove the two 10mm bol…

picked up my familys 01 2500 that sat for a few years, installed a new DDRP lift pump since the stock in tank was dead, i prime the system all the way to the vp and crack injector lines but only am getting a little fuel out, how much should it be producing when bleeding the air out, after i close the lines up and crank nothing happens it just keeps turning over, any suggestions?

Does anyone here use the cummins quick serve? If so, didn't you used to be able to view service diagrams and maintenance manuals there? I cannot seem to find the links inside the site for those anymore, and it reads that no service manuals are available for my motor. Thanks.

Are the starters for 12v and 24valve Cummins the same?If not, what are the differences?Also, is there any benefit to replacing the stock NipponDenso with a Delco or other brand?TIA<als>

Ok guys I have a 2000cummins and it was running great till today I started up a grade in 598th gear no issue till half way up it started stumbling only at 1800 rpm and up while in the throttle so I turned around and took it home and got the car and did my running well after I returned home I started it back up and it stumbled for a few min at idle and cleared up till I raved it to 3000rpm and it started stumbling and blue smoking and right befor I let off it poped in the exhaust. It also has 14 psi fuel pressure and no cel what could be causing this?

Ok guys my 2000 2500 cummins and now that its turned off cold ive noticed when cruising at 55 itll randomly just feel like i let off the throttle a bit then pick back up any of u guys had this issue and what caused it ive seen on here that the apps can cause this

Today in my work load was my shop owner asking me to replace his water pump. Pretty straight forward. Got to the part of refilling the coolant in the system. I did like I normally do is remove the thermostat and fill when I popped thermostat out and the bypass flap is missing. Now this is the second Cummins thermostat seen fail.

Do the cummins brand of t stats have a fail safe?The question is when they go bad are they made to brake in the open position? My engine gets hot 190.The t stat housing is hot. The radiator fluid is cold.I am thinking water pump. The radiator and heater core were flushed in summer.

Has anyone repaired a terminal on the female side of the plug. Deustch connector. I have looked @ the website but I didn't find the repair of that 50 pin connector.

I have been curious about breaking one open and poking around a little so I wanted to see if anyone has a good paper weight they would be willing to give up if I pay for shipping. Mine is going and waiting for a refund on one I returned.

I have been considering installing a blocking diode for Alternative energy production to prevent AC Noise from screwing things up. 1600V*100A=160kW which is far more than our trucks output. This means that I could install it between the alternator and the power block to protect all electrical components easily and cost effectively. Installing a diode eliminates the possibility of AC current because it only allows current to flow one way. I would install it between the power block and the alternator then heat shrink to prevent electrical hazards. Another option I have thought of is creating a diode bridge, however, it is difficult to find diodes with the capabili…

Well my friends truck with NV4500 has a problem with 5th gear nuts we have fixed it a few times now over a couple years now. 1st repair put a fancy new nut with set screws and 3 small welds about 1/4 inch wide. Mig welded nut to shaft. Lasted maybe a year 2nd repair he put the nut back on and mig welded the hell out of it, all the way around the shaft. A couple months later on a long trip with trailer the shaft broke completely where the weld was. 3rd repair we put an after market shaft in it with full splines and threads. A very expensive shaft. It had a new washer and nut with it we also replaced the 5th gear. The nut had 3 set …

Problems with the stock breather... This is a home-brew fix to a problem on the 2nd Gen Cummins engines. The problem is the OEM crankcase vent is nothing more than a piece of hose mounted to the front of the gear case that elbows over and points down towards the ground. There is two versions of this. One is with a drip bottle mounted on the end of the hose and the other is without the bottle. In any case there is a TSB (09-002-02 Crankcase Breather Overflow) warning on extreme loss of oil from descending to steep of a slope while off-roading. This is true but it will also scatter oil all over the engine and radiator. This cause a second problem of overheat from dust and…