2nd Generation Dodge 24 Valve Powertrain

I'm finally getting motivated to install a new ATS T3 3-pc pulse exh manifold and ATS Aurora turbo on to my 2002 that I've had on hand for a while. Goal is to have a better spooling turbo for towing and a more durable/efficient manifold. Going to install the 2 things as a pair. Question is how to deal with the downpipe to the new ATS turbo. Currently my setup has a 4" downpipe connected with a flange coupling to a stock exhaust elbow to a HX35/Fleece turbo. What I' m anticipating is a few visits to a local exhaust shop to cut off the existing downpipe and then re-install the new down pipe that shipped with the aurora and then hope there's correct clearance to connect up t…

Finally happy again with my injectors and power. Many years ago, ran DAP +60hp VCO injectors, they were pretty clean usable. Then some DFI 7x.009 +100hp VCOs, clean and powerful. Then DAP 7x.009 SACs, smokey and laggy with the super b, tuner or no tuner. Now I have about 50 miles on some Contageous 7x.008 RV275 stlye +50hp SACs, very clean and powerful with no tuner, slight haze romping on it with tuner off, and only a touch of smoke till boost builds with the tuner on. Super b is definitely more laggy than the holsets, but burns clean with rpms. Smaller injectors with the tuner off is streetable down low, and then turn the quadzilla xzt after you get rolling.…

Noticed some abnormal noise going down the highway yesterday, so I stopped and popped the hood, only to find that both my downpipe bolts had gone off and joined the bleedin' choir invisible... So, now I need to replace them so I can put my exhaust back on. Does anyone know what size they are so I can go down to Fastenal and get some good brass replacements and proper lock washers?

Hi, I'm new and wanted to say I'm grateful for such knowledge that I have been reading on here. So I have a weird issue I need help with.. I have an 01 with a stage 5 trans and it is out of warranty but still functioning fine. I recently replaced my trans cooler and ever since I have been have a issue with the truck downshifting from 3rd gear to 1st when I come to a stop light or sign. I have the upgraded GM gov pressure solenoid and have replaced it along with the transducer and no change. Changed fluid and filter no change. Pulled my alternator fuse, no change. The only other symptom is the truck will want to start out in 3rd gear until trans fluid is warm. Also replac…

Anybody running diesel power sources Twin/ Compound turbo set up?i just ordered the set and was curious if the install is as simple as they say

Has anyone used or installed a DPS S300 Turbonator with the electronic control on a 2001 or 2002 Cummins? Just wondering if they are any good -- looks like an interesting concept : Electronic control VNT (exhaust brake built in).

Hi Guys,I've just been using an extra large cresent wrench to loosen & tighten my plug, & being very careful not to round off the corners. My sockets only go up to an inch or so in standard & 24mm in metric. The next time I go to the tool store I'd like to purchase a dedicated 6 point socket just for the plug.I also saw a magnet that attaches to the oil filter in one of my catalogs, do the work? I think most of the stuff getting in the oil is non-magnetic anyhow!Thanks,Dave

Ok i have the vulcan kit to take the intank pump out. I cut the line below the t and hooked the return to the output side as the instructions said. BUT my fuel pressure is to high. I unhook the return and it is fine is there a check valve in that t that will block fuel from returning to the tank. vulcan said cut the hose on top of the t . Any none else had this problem, If i do this will the return fuel still fill the canister. Wrong forum this is a 01 3500 if some one can move it

Anybody happens too have a good how to video on installing the draw straw. Ink finally going to poor it on tomorrowand I can find the instructions anywhere.

First and foremost, Merry Christmas!! Second, I don't post on this site much but absorb as much as I can from just reading the forums. I have a Fass system and yesterday and today I've been working on installing a Draw Straw 1 and 1/2 inch lines from tank to VP. Question is what do I do with the factory lines (suction and return) that were connected to the tank? I'm assuming just plug them or do nothing with them?

Just got Draw Straw 5 from Vulcan to help with 1/4 tank sucking air problem. I got an upgraded in tank fuel pump module. This kit replaces in tank pump with clip in aluminum fitting and flex hose to top of sending unit. Then it says to replenish fuel back to module I need to use factory outlet (that's not used anyway) as return a quick connect that is 3/8 and new fitting is 3/8 to 1/2 barb. Before I did this my return was going to filler neck. So now that I got it all plumed according to instructions my fuel pressure went up to 22 where before it was 19. The only thing I can think of is restriction in return going from air dog to module, the actual hole in module is just …

Hello, im currently installing my draw straw and i cut a hole in the tank where i thought it would fit, but it turns out the fittings don't have room to clear when the housing is pushed down all the way. How would i remedy this? should i put a 45 degree fitting on one side? or maybe cut another hole somewhere on the tank and somehow fix the hole i cut already? interested where everyone else has put there straws. Thx im in a bit of a pinch right now so all help is appreciated.

I had two different questions and just lumped them in to one thread. First, does anyone have a good write up for draw straw install? Going to do it Friday and wanted to make sure I have everything I need. Second, I just read somewhere that the 24v's also have the killer dowel pin problem. In my ignorance I thought it was only the 12v. If so how prevalent is it? I worked for a company with a fleet of over 100 6bt and 4bt engines and never saw the killer dowel pin however I did see the bolts back out of the housing on two occasions. I guess I'm wondering if this should be a 911 issue?

1999 2500, 4X4 auto stock... 147K, inherit from Step Dad. Truck sat for about 4 yrs, monthly starting. steel lines from the top of level sending unit is leaking fuel badly. (i.e. painting line paint in the street bad). I'm wanting to order and put in Drawstraw I from Vulcan. From what I "can" see it def the steel line. Wil the Vulcan handle the fix? Also the $50 question, drop a half tank of fuel or pull the bed...and where are your vids on either choice? Thanxs..

Does anyone know where someone could find the gromment for the fuel tank where the plumbing (suction/ return) lines go into tank? Mine was in bad shape and need to replace soon. Went to Dodge and said they cannot get it because the have supercided it so many times:banghead:. They wanted to know if i had the number that is on the gromment and they could search but it is torn there. Anyone have there tank exposed so they can see the number? Or have a location on where to get one? Any help would be greatful.

27.641 Gallons after hauling a car back on a trailer from Boise, ID did 14.76 MPG. Still solid fuel pressure and no issues, no pressure dropping while driving. Remember this is for old school DrawStraw users and not in the sender straws. Lets see how low you guys can go with your old school straws.

Hi folks... A mechanic not far from me has his own Chrysler DRB3 scanner that works according to him. Its for sale very cheap. Is this of any use to me with it being hooked into Chyslers own computer. Might not be a bad thing to have once in a while. Regards Chris

Hi Folks. I am looking for some direction with my no bus issue. I did a cab swap on my 02 2500 4x4 24 valve automatic trans. I just bought the truck and did notice the fuel gauge was acting up before hand but didnt notice anything else but then again I bought it as a project and got right to work. After I got it back together, I would get a few gauges acting up and every 3rd or 4th keystart, I would get a no bus message. Here is what I have now pretty much with every keystart - No Bus message, Alternator not charging, None of the gauges are working, Starts off in 2nd gear - Limp Mode?, no communication with code readers, O/D off selector not working, dash warning lights…

So on my way to work this morning I noticed my pedal was for the most part dead. No acceleration and the engine was "missing" for lack of a better term. Made it to work, truck idled smooth like any other day but if revved a few times it would begin to miss again. Had the OBD scanner in the truck so plugged in and saw the P0216 code. That was the only code present. I know this is the VP death code but before I drop big $$$ on a pump, is there anything else I need to look at? I want to properly diagnose this and not just throw money at it. Can't afford that rout right now. Thanks in advance......

I have white smoke when I start up. Smells like oil. Doesn’t matter the outside temp. Also when I accelerate (under load) there a haze of white smoke but clears up when I get to speed. Doesn’t matter if the Quad is on or off. It did this with the old 75hp injectors and still with the new 150hp injectors. No loss of coolant or loss of power. The head gasket and ARP head-studs where replaced last year. Had the head rebuilt while it was off. Any suggestions? Appreciate the help.