2nd Generation Dodge 24 Valve Powertrain

Good evening guys! I was wondering if any of you run a a Industial Injection Viper 63/70 turbo w/ 12cm housing? I am thinking of upgrading one of my 01 3500's with it and was looking on opinions and usage reviews. I would only be using it for towing. Thanks!!

Howdy folks! I'm currently working on replacing my exhaust system with a Diamond Eye 5" inch kit and have come across an issue. My old down pipe has corroded itself to the the exhaust flange waste gate elbow (Part #3590110).. so I need a new one, but I can't find anything online. Can someone help point me in the right direction? Should I use one from a different turbo setup?

Going to head to a local muffler shop tomorrow to get either the muffler or resonator taken off my stock system. I assume it would be a better idea to delete the muffler and keep the resonator. I would appreciate some input on which to do and has anyone done this. I just want to get a little more sound out of my truck but not have too much in cab drone. A friend did both and the sound is nice. But the best part is the cost. They only charged him 80 bucks to do both plus a chrome tip. Can't even get a muffler delete pipe online for that price. Thanks in advance. L8tr D

Tranny jerking from 4 into OD. Feels like Engine is cutting out.

I'm confused I am try to figure out where my communication problem .I have done the tests that i got from here and when I do the check to ground on the white and black wires my gauge does not move at all. I was looking around online and I saw pretty much the same test but the color of the wires it said to check on post 1 and 2 on the FPCM are totally different. My wires are one white and one black and they are together in a shielded cable in the wiring harness with the others for the FPCM is this correct? I have a 2001 2500 quad cab long bed 2wd with auto transmission.I have replaced the lift pump and the VP44 it will crank but NO START. Thanks in advance for any HE…

Well I thought the truck was running good... It sat last night and most of today and I went to start her and she fired first crank but idle extremely erratic and had a nasty lope and unloaded a mass cloud of white smoke... New injectors went in a week and a half ago and all seemed well until the lift pump failed. I'm thinking the LP took the VP too. Fuel pressure went straight to 20 psi so that's not a issue. Ran the key trick and got P1693 and then -------- and then P Done. checked for codes and found nothing.

I've been leaking oil from the drivers side of the motor and my fear was the tappet cover which I just replace..... But turns out the oil is coming from a port in the block just below the motor mount. (see picture). My question.... Is this threaded? or was there a plug or something in the hole that maybe blow out? And how do I keep this from happening again?

Anyone know if there is an OBD PID for idle mode? Say for instance my truck had a weird lopey idle and I suspected that the APPS is rapidly jumping from idle mode to off-idle (because the truck also jumps out of fast-idle mode when it's cold). I know I can check it with a meter, but I was hoping I could monitor it from obd. Thanks.

OK I'll start with my truck is a 99 24v auto. All stock aside from a beans sump and a fass 150. I had a edge ez but it's been removed. Also I just replaced the vp44 with a used vp44. Before I replaced it I had a hard set p1689 no communication between ecm and vp44. Once I put the replacement VP in the code immediately went away and right before I had all the injectors bled(almost had it running) it threw the p1694 in both ECM and PCM and then kicked me out of the bus connection. Still have power at the data link connector. Now I'm unable to connect my scanner(Autel Maxidas) to either, no tach signal while cranking, no wait to start light, no lift pump signal, and pi…

I believe this is related to my low power and P0237 issues but last evening I went and picked up a new boat 20 miles away. Idk when it started but i started hearing a lot of what sounds like valve chatter. Something tells me it has nothing to do with the valves but that it’s related to a timing issue. I’m also having rough idle symptoms again although a bit different from when I had air in fuel. What I’m thinking is since I have turbo play and all that i may have low boost which flipped the code and is causing low power. I also read somewhere here that low boost will create more timing and make a knocking noise and higher boost will retard timing. This boat I…

Hello everyone, I have a spare HX35 laying on the shelf and I would like to get it rebuilt to more of a towing turbo. Does anyone know or recommend a shop that can rebuild turbos? Closer to CNY the better. Thinking about getting housing machined for a 60 or 62mm wheel. Let me know your thoughts. Thanks, Tim

Had the 5th gear retainer nut installed by my local shop about 6 months ago and now 5th is hung in gear. Just returned from that shop and was told they can't see any problem from shifter section on top of the tranny so it must be internal. He told me he shouldn't have to pull the tranny since 5th is in the tail section, that just means a little less in labor. This 5th gear is starting to $500 here $500 there me to death. He hasn't pulled the tail section off to see what exactly the problem is but I am sure it want be anything to do with the retainer nut because that is what he put in and said I would never have the issue again. So far he is correct I haven't loss 5t…

So injectors are currently getting re-popped to 325 and I've been watching youtube vids and write up on injector swaps. Obviously everyone does it a little different but I want to make sure I get things straight for my particular situation. As far as I know I'll be pulling on stock injectors and I don't know if/when a valve lash adjustment was done. When swapping injectors do I need to remove the exhaust rocker arms? Most videos show them being removed and I'm wondering since I don't think these injectors have ever been out of the truck if that'd be a good idea in order to verify the torque spec on the rear injector hold down bolt? I want to make…

hello i change my automatic transmission for a nv4500 but the front drive shaft is too tight, what length to remove to be in the right measure ? .. I will have it cut and balance at a professional shop thank you

So I'm bored here at work thinking deep, Have 206k on my 01, factory VP. Im second owner, bought at 120k miles December of 2015. Previous owner hauled camper to Florida and back and maintained it with regular oil and filter changes all documented. First thing I did was on my way home order a Air dog rapotor factory replacement. 2 days later it showed up and ran fleetguard fs19855 filters with 5k miles changes. That pump died in August of 2017. Then a Fass titanium 165 was put on and I ran the factory Fass filters for 11k miles and am doing 15k mile changes on fleetguard fs1000 and CAT IR0750. And every oil change I buy a 16…

Didn’t know where to put this topic but since it’s on a 2nd gen I’ll put it here. I’m wanting to paint the compressor housing on my he351cw this weekend but it’s a pain to remove the snap ring that holds it on. It doesn’t have one of those convenient tabs that make it easy to remove its just got 1 hole in each side like a normal snap ring. Does anyone have a cheap tool that I can pick up at the hardware store? I can’t find any snap ring pliers big enough. I got it out last time with 2 punches and some channel locks but I’d rather not go through that again ?

Bought truck from a friend that said it needed to warm up a few minutes before it shifted right. Test drive took 1/2 mile not shifting before shifting perfectly. I would let the truck warm up about 5 min and it shifted fine, for 4 months, 95% of the time. Sometimes, after just shutting it off, I had to drive around a parking lot until it shifted right or stopped and restart. I replaced the two pressure sensors, replaced the accumulator spring (was broken) with upgrade, and the bar( broken) on the front band adjuster. No luck. ONE TIME while driving around the block I shut it off, started it and immediately dropped into drive and it shifted perfectly through all gears. Non…

Lost my Speedometer the other day and started troubleshooting. Only to find the abs ring is toast and the pinion gear had chipped and caused all the damage. The rearend was rebuilt 3years ago and has 36k on it. Any my idea what would cause this to happen? Poor install? Poor Material? I only haul 7k for 6 to 8,000 miles a year.

Driving home from work engine the tone changed and my max speed was 60 mph so checked for codes no codes, I disconnected the TS MVP no change, I check fuel pressure seemed normal to me bump key 17psi, running 15psi, mash the pedal to the floor 10psi, my fass pump is 12 years old. Truck is smoking white smoke. I'm thinking it the VP44 it have been in for 10yrs and 200,000 miles. It did this the first time the VP44 died, except it would only idle no matter what position the gas pedal was in. I'm thinking it's the VP44 again just wanted a second a pinion. I plan on replacing the VP and the fass pump. Thanks

2002 2500 with I think factory tow package has both 4 pole and 7 hooks up. The 4 way works like it should. Turn signals and brakes. The 7 way only had turn signals and brake light brake box wouldn't come on either. Checked the 40 amp fuse under the hood for the trailer and it was bad swapped it out. Brake box worked and had running lights. Then the ground wire on the trailer was smoking and my third brake like was stuck on till we unhooked trailer. What is wired wrong on this truck? It ain't the trailer. I think something was odd about dodge wiring but I cant recall what. Any help is appreciated.