2nd Generation Dodge 24 Valve Powertrain

Hey all, Getting ready to replace my rear driveshaft U joints. I know the rearmost one is going bad because the caps were a little hard to spin when we had it out to do my clutch. I figured if Im doing one, I might as well do all three. I also have a slight shaking that happens right around 40 mph, and I'm hoping replacing the U joints will take care of it. I helped my dad with U joints before, but it was a while ago, so I just wanted to see if anyone has any tips/tricks to share. I know to mark the driveshaft and keep it in the same orientation. I'm also planning to rent a press from autozone. I know some will say to just use a hammer, but I'm a little worried about…

So I've come to my senses a bit thanks to @TFaoro and have decided that I need to cannibalize my fleet and throw the HX that's in my 99 into the 02 since that's the truck that's staying for the long haul. Now, with that being said, I do have some questions. - Do I take out the entire thing?! (turbine & compressor housings n such?) - I figure I should get a rebuild kit for the HX since I know it's never been done, anything else besides the basic kit DAP sells? - Anything else I should look at changing or upgrading while I have it apart? - Tyler I know you got yours all nice and polished when you did your rebuild, where/how did you do that?

So I bought a "built" transmission last spring and have pretty much had problems with it since I picked it up, when I got around to putting it in and took it for a test drive all I had was 2nd and 3rd and manual 1st. The trans builder thought it was a bad pressure sensor but come to find out he had built it for a 99 and I have a 2002 so it had the wrong vb wiring. I also noticed that this "built" transmissions band was so out of adjustment I could put my entire finger under the apply lever which was also still stock along with the old used accumulator piston that was just floating around in there with no spring behind it. Well I ended up having the builder come out and r…

Where can I get a ECM repaired? I need someone I can trust to repair my E CM for my 98 24 valve.

Hey guys, Late last year I noticed my front passenger side axle seal was leaking, so I had a local place replace it. Well just the other week, approximately 7 months after the replacement, I noticed it was leaking again. I took it back to the shop and the replaced it again and told me to keep an eye on it and let them know if it started up again. Well here we are a week later and its leaking again. What can the issue be??? All I can think of is that they are screwing it up, or the vent tube is blocked maybe. Any ideas? Second question. Last few days it seemed like my trans is shifting a little different. Not totally sure, just kinda seems it. Anywa…

Hey guys, I was thinking today and I decided it would be very convenient to have a sight glass in my nv4500 fill plug and my nv241dhd fill plug. Maybe eventually the front and rear diffs as well. Now I know from Mike's thread that the trans fill plug is 3/4 npt. What I don't know is, the t case fill plug size, and diff fill plug size. I'm also wondering if anyone has input on anything special to look for or avoid with a sight glass for this specific application? Also, anyone have a good source for these? thanks!

Are the intake and exhaust pushrods the same dimensions (from factory)?

Ok so since I'm on my second ISSPRO gauge in this truck, I've been paying extra attention to it and the FASS. Well I've noticed a couple things and just wanted to clear the air. I don't think anything a wrong but just wanted to get some extra input before I moved on to worrying about the next thing. Currently have less then 1/4 tank so keep that in mind... If/when I bump the starter, the FASS will run/prime but I don't see any fuel pressure build on my gauge. Once I finally start it takes 5+ seconds before it shows any readings which end up between 16-18 at any given point. - Anything to worry about here? While driving I noticed r…

Have 99 that when you start it runs real rough for about 5-10 seconds then tach quits cel comes on and it smooths out but not drivable no power. This all started with no start condition Ecm was not turning on fuel pump.Replaced Ecm truck started but gave code for bad cam sensor so I replaced it and it still gives that code and same problem. All sensors have 5 volts all grounds are good put in new crank sensor. I have now replaced the ecm again and the cam sensor with still the same problem. The crank sensor showed no damage this is driving me nuts

Im trying to figure out some stuff about this wire. Im pretty sure this is the wire that makes the pump work the way it does (utilizing the sensors, etc.). My question is is this wire taking a signal from the ecm to the pump or vice versa? What sort of integrity test can I do using a DMM for this wire?

This might be a silly question for all you dually owners, but I was helping my Son with his brakes today, and I`m curious .. Do the front wheels rotate out with one of the rear duals? They appear to be all identical rims, but the fronts have a chrome cover on the outer.. I`m just wondering if dually owners bother with tire rotation. P.S. Sorry I think I put this in the wrong sub forum

Hey guys, so since I've had my truck for a bit the engine temps are acting a bit weird. I know it's normal to climb up to around 200F before the thermostat opens, but mine seems to be doing it sporadically after the thermostat opens. For instance, driving home there was a bit of a grade for about a mile, and the temps climbed up to 208. The fan kicked on and it cooled back down. Then today, I was driving for 30 min or so and it was at 193, where it usually sits. Then out of the blue it climbed to 202 and sat there until the fan kicked on and it cooled back down. Ambient temps were both around 65*. I'm thinking thermostat, but it didn't do this before the new water pump.

Hey all, Got another question for the group. I have two brake issues that have been there since I bought my truck, but only just now getting around to. Both are hydroboost related. First, it leaks on the inside of the firewall. No question there, it needs rebuilt or replaced, however I don't think rebuilding is an option because of the second issue. Namely, the pedal is very slow to return. Takes about 3 good seconds for it to return and my brake controller light to go out, and even longer when the truck is cold. I had a friend help me flush the power steering fluid, but that didn't help much if at all. So I'm looking into a new hydrobooster. My question is, does an…

Replaced the power steering pump an all the pressure lines, Now my vacuum pump is dripping steadily. looks like I have to pull it all over again. Any helpfull tips

Anyone happen to know what size plug and thread the fill plug on the NV4500 is?

Started truck getting ready to go to work. Backed out of garage Turned onto highway went about 100 yards lost all power started missing. Got turned around and started back to house noticed DTC and no fuel pressure. The code was p0216. No time to check anything, jump into the wife car get to work. All day thinking 1500.00 for new vp 44. Remembered no fuel pressure, checked when I got home' put key in turn to on lift pump runs. Bump engine lift pump runs for 20 seconds. Thinking one time thing. Pull onto road lose all power. So start checking wires. Found one rubbing, no break in insulation but taped it and put cover over it. Also changed the relay for the fuel heater/diese…

So as I'm chasing down this fuel leak, I was poking around under the hood just to make sure I didn't miss any obvious leaks or that nothing new happened. Well I got to looking more closely at the injector line bolts and it looks like some are threaded on more then others. Here's some pics theres not leaks or wetness anywhere and last I checked, they're pretty tight. Is this normal or should I pull them off and check for something? I don't really want to ignore this, but at the same time, I don't want create a new problem.

Hello, I would like to know what I have to do for changing my engine oil pan? step by step! Also do I need to remove the trans.? Thanks

Since the weather has been warming back up, I have forgotten that I still have a problem with the truck cranking because of air in the fuel system. I think I'm convinced that the fuel lines supplied to me from AD are now dry cracking and allowing air into the system. I recently discovered fuel leaking from the top of the tank. Something I think is attributed to cracked fuel lines under pressure... It does not leave puddles, but it does drip occasionally. Any thoughts? I'm thinking I might want to redo the line with something else, but dunno what. I also have the JIC(IIRC) fittings, which would need to go or I have to retrofit everything... This mak…

Unlike @Mopar1973Man's issue of not having the transmission oil made any more, I'm having the issue of which oil to run in the G56. Dodge put regular atf in the transmission, and from what I can tell that was only to save money. Mercedes (the manufacture of the transmission) does NOT recommend atf, but rather the same stuff @Mopar1973Man is going to put in his nv4500. Mobil SAE50 Synthetic transmission oil is what is spec'd. There's also a hotshotter out there who has a fleet with g56 transmissions and has a coctail of multiple oils. I'm looking forward to hearing stories / opinions on what I should use. Thanks!