2nd Generation Dodge 24 Valve Powertrain

Hey guys, Im looking for any recs on a 12 volt switched wire to hook my 2low kit up to that is convenient under the dash. I was thinking of going with the upper cig lighter, but if there are any that are easier to get to id entertain the feedback. Thanks.

So I've got 4th gear hunt on my truck. It is intermittent. I've had the alternator tested every which way and it always comes out good, be it bench testing, on car etc. It's also pretty new. I've gone ahead and done that ATS fix to bypass the ECM, but immediately threw a p0123. I did an apps reset, tried to clear the code and still there. Truck runs ok, but I'm at a loss. I'm supposed to roll out for my trip on Sunday. Any thoughts?

So I'm getting ready to put in my new pump and really don't want to screw up the keyway. I know putting superglue on the key is recommended, and I'm wanting to do that, but my key is really on the pump shaft pretty firmly. Should I yank it out to superglue it or dab glue on the corner where the key and shaft meet?

I have a rough procedure up and mostly completed, just need to put in torque specs and sequence of a few things and its done. this will get you from a bare block to an assembled block ready to go in the truck. http://articles.mopar1973man.com/2nd-generation-24v-dodge-cummins/26-engine-systems/481-24v-cummins-rebuild-step-by-step?hitcount=0

Been noticing a change in the sound of my truck the last month or so but still working the same, no smoke, no hard starts etc. Tonight I got dead pedal about 5-6 times when towing my trailer. Did the odmometer read and its showing the 216 code which I know what it means. My question is this..each time I got dead pedal I looked and I'm still holding 17-19 psi with no drop. Only drop I see in pressure is now at an idle im at 12-13 instead of the usual 16psi. Is dead pedal normal when holding good psi? Calling around about pumps tomorrow unfortunatley

Today, after FLUSHINg P/S System, i Pulled of my 4-yr old BHAF Air Filter to replace with new, When i pulled Boot off of turbo, there it was,, the Compressor wheel blades were Damaged, "Not wiped out" but few of the edges of blades are frayed up pretty good, but there's no excessive play in the shaft and the blades hasn't been rubbing the housing.... im trying to post pictures

Hi guys, Concerning my truck below in my signature.....When driving the truck in any Edge tune, the truck is hard to rev above 2000 rpms. This is while driving normal and not hotrodding the truck. If I floor the truck, sure it will rev up beyond 2000rpm, but during normal driving the truck accelerates nicely until 2000rpm then just falls on it's face while maintaining my pedal position. This is even more noticable while towing a trailer. It's hard to get my rpm's up to grab the next gear. I have experimented with all Edge tunes and doesn't seem to matter. My boost appears to be fine. EGT's are good. BTW, i am only getting 16mpg highway or city. Time for …

Anyone know why I would have my power steering fluid overflowing? All was fine for 3 weeks without driving it (Driveway statue) and then one hot day it's coming out the cap. With truck sitting idle for 3 weeks, suddenly the fluid is at the top and overflowing.

So my alternator wire is pretty ragged. I'm talking about the one that runs from the fuse to the alternator. I would really like to replace it, or at least fix it up a bit, but I'm wondering if anyone knows if it is actual straight wire, or a fusible link. I'm thinking it's straight wire as it has a fuse in line too. My thought is to have a new run made up with new ends, and either cut out the old wire from the harness or simply route new alongside. Thoughts? I'm thinking it's either 6 or 4 ga wire. Anyone know?

I'm wondering if there would be any issue with replacing the whole "T" line assembly with 2 barbed banjo fittings (maintaining the stock check valve bolt at the VP44) and 3/8 3 way barbed T fitting and some 3/8 fuel hose. I bent my assembly pretty good when I pulled the head (forgot to unbolt the line bracket at the head when I pulled it), and I think I'm getting air in the system, as it now takes about 15 seconds to start in the morning. This is different from the barely touching the key I had before pulling the head. To replace the whole assembly from Cummins appears to be about $130, and you are still dealing with the crummy hard-line and rubber washer setup.

So as the title states, is it necessary to retorque (ensure all bolts are up to correct ft/lb) the head bolts after break in and some mileage after full rebuild? So far i have about ~3000miles on my rebuild. I have had no issues but i heard rumors of needing to recheck torque on all head bolts. I am also unsure of what the ft/lb is to check for if needed. I did do proper install on head per rebuild manual. thoughts suggestions?

First, I had the diode installed to the IAT sensor. Did this mod since it first came out. Had no problems with it until recently. The code just started the past couple of months. In the back of my mind I kept thinking it was related to the morning cold. Finally decided it was time to get rid of the engine code light from reappearing. Long story short, the wiring harness was in good shape. Figured the easiest way to see where the problem was to put it back to stock. Been fine since. Amazing that a 10 cent part can change everything!

IS IT COMPLICATED JOB TO DROP VALVE BODY AND INSTALL 3-4 ACCUMULATOR I installed a new Goerend/ Dynotec Transmission last February as some of you may have noticed in my sig. It works Great except I've noticed that it shifts into 4th gear Hard. So i figured it was probably just settling in where it was new and may just need adjustment later on and i had gotten busy with business and other things so i just kinda put it off till later and see if it got better, i was running highway when i did drive it so no big deal, well lately I've been riding it around local and its become a PITA. So i Called Ken at DYNOTEC and asked him about it and he insured me it is an e…

What micron filter do they use at the pump? What ever it is I am sure they don't replace it enough.

I probably shouldn't be bothering you fellas but you look like you know whats up! I have a 2001 dodge diesel and around 2003 I bought an Edge programmer box model 2000.2b model 141075.. Such as it is! Anyway I had a neighbor who wanted to buy it, so I took it off my truck, and he decided he didn't want it! So recently I got a wild hair and decided to put it back on my 01 dodge for helping tow a 31ft. 5th wheel. Any way I misplaced the installation instructions {dumb ***!} so I'm screwed! So the problem I have is you have to splice into the three wires on the map sensor with the three wires from the edge for the map sensor which are green, red,and white. I know how to ta…

I have a 99 dodge ram 2500 with 24v cummins. A year or so ago I had an issue with my ECM. The throttle was stuck at 14%. I bought a new one through GO ECM DIESEL and it had a lifetime warranty. About 8 months after having the ECM my wait to start light wouldn't come on anymore. I put my buddy's ecm on my truck and the light and grid heaters worked fine. Mind you I've always had to wait for the wait to start light to go out before the truck would start, ever since I've owned it. I've owned it for about 2 years now. When I first got the ecm it would start fine with the WTS light on. After a while it was back to waiting until it shut off to start the truck. Then my grid heat…

My son is the proud new owner of of a "00" 3500 DRW 24V. I finally got around to looking under the hood this past Friday after his lovely wife ran it out of fuel up on main street (another story).. Anyway I noticed his truck has the same style fuel canister as my 3rd gen.. I`m thinking if the truck were mine I would go with a Baldwin PF7977 5 micron filter along with a good lift pump upgrade. The reason I`m throwing this out there is because I remember seeing somekind of warning on Geno`s website about using 7 micron filters being too restrictive for 2nd gens??? What do you guys think?

What would be the best turbo for a 2001 ho six speed with 100hp ddp injectors

Have set a code 0122 but the truck is running fine. Researching the TPS and it is not very expensive. What is the difference between a TPS with a harness and one without a wiring harness? Both listed for a 2001 diesel. Now to replace it. I think it is behind the housing with the cables that control the throttle. What needs to be removed to get to it? Last question is should I dive in and replace it and how do I reset the trouble codes?

I have 2002 cummins 6 speed with 100hp ddp injectors and s300g 57 65 14 and it spools slow and smokes alot till it spools at about 1700 to 1800rpms then it clears up.