2nd Generation Dodge 24 Valve Powertrain

Today, after FLUSHINg P/S System, i Pulled of my 4-yr old BHAF Air Filter to replace with new, When i pulled Boot off of turbo, there it was,, the Compressor wheel blades were Damaged, "Not wiped out" but few of the edges of blades are frayed up pretty good, but there's no excessive play in the shaft and the blades hasn't been rubbing the housing.... im trying to post pictures

Hi guys, Concerning my truck below in my signature.....When driving the truck in any Edge tune, the truck is hard to rev above 2000 rpms. This is while driving normal and not hotrodding the truck. If I floor the truck, sure it will rev up beyond 2000rpm, but during normal driving the truck accelerates nicely until 2000rpm then just falls on it's face while maintaining my pedal position. This is even more noticable while towing a trailer. It's hard to get my rpm's up to grab the next gear. I have experimented with all Edge tunes and doesn't seem to matter. My boost appears to be fine. EGT's are good. BTW, i am only getting 16mpg highway or city. Time for …

Anyone know why I would have my power steering fluid overflowing? All was fine for 3 weeks without driving it (Driveway statue) and then one hot day it's coming out the cap. With truck sitting idle for 3 weeks, suddenly the fluid is at the top and overflowing.

So my alternator wire is pretty ragged. I'm talking about the one that runs from the fuse to the alternator. I would really like to replace it, or at least fix it up a bit, but I'm wondering if anyone knows if it is actual straight wire, or a fusible link. I'm thinking it's straight wire as it has a fuse in line too. My thought is to have a new run made up with new ends, and either cut out the old wire from the harness or simply route new alongside. Thoughts? I'm thinking it's either 6 or 4 ga wire. Anyone know?

I'm wondering if there would be any issue with replacing the whole "T" line assembly with 2 barbed banjo fittings (maintaining the stock check valve bolt at the VP44) and 3/8 3 way barbed T fitting and some 3/8 fuel hose. I bent my assembly pretty good when I pulled the head (forgot to unbolt the line bracket at the head when I pulled it), and I think I'm getting air in the system, as it now takes about 15 seconds to start in the morning. This is different from the barely touching the key I had before pulling the head. To replace the whole assembly from Cummins appears to be about $130, and you are still dealing with the crummy hard-line and rubber washer setup.

So as the title states, is it necessary to retorque (ensure all bolts are up to correct ft/lb) the head bolts after break in and some mileage after full rebuild? So far i have about ~3000miles on my rebuild. I have had no issues but i heard rumors of needing to recheck torque on all head bolts. I am also unsure of what the ft/lb is to check for if needed. I did do proper install on head per rebuild manual. thoughts suggestions?

First, I had the diode installed to the IAT sensor. Did this mod since it first came out. Had no problems with it until recently. The code just started the past couple of months. In the back of my mind I kept thinking it was related to the morning cold. Finally decided it was time to get rid of the engine code light from reappearing. Long story short, the wiring harness was in good shape. Figured the easiest way to see where the problem was to put it back to stock. Been fine since. Amazing that a 10 cent part can change everything!

IS IT COMPLICATED JOB TO DROP VALVE BODY AND INSTALL 3-4 ACCUMULATOR I installed a new Goerend/ Dynotec Transmission last February as some of you may have noticed in my sig. It works Great except I've noticed that it shifts into 4th gear Hard. So i figured it was probably just settling in where it was new and may just need adjustment later on and i had gotten busy with business and other things so i just kinda put it off till later and see if it got better, i was running highway when i did drive it so no big deal, well lately I've been riding it around local and its become a PITA. So i Called Ken at DYNOTEC and asked him about it and he insured me it is an e…

What micron filter do they use at the pump? What ever it is I am sure they don't replace it enough.

I probably shouldn't be bothering you fellas but you look like you know whats up! I have a 2001 dodge diesel and around 2003 I bought an Edge programmer box model 2000.2b model 141075.. Such as it is! Anyway I had a neighbor who wanted to buy it, so I took it off my truck, and he decided he didn't want it! So recently I got a wild hair and decided to put it back on my 01 dodge for helping tow a 31ft. 5th wheel. Any way I misplaced the installation instructions {dumb ***!} so I'm screwed! So the problem I have is you have to splice into the three wires on the map sensor with the three wires from the edge for the map sensor which are green, red,and white. I know how to ta…

I have a 99 dodge ram 2500 with 24v cummins. A year or so ago I had an issue with my ECM. The throttle was stuck at 14%. I bought a new one through GO ECM DIESEL and it had a lifetime warranty. About 8 months after having the ECM my wait to start light wouldn't come on anymore. I put my buddy's ecm on my truck and the light and grid heaters worked fine. Mind you I've always had to wait for the wait to start light to go out before the truck would start, ever since I've owned it. I've owned it for about 2 years now. When I first got the ecm it would start fine with the WTS light on. After a while it was back to waiting until it shut off to start the truck. Then my grid heat…

My son is the proud new owner of of a "00" 3500 DRW 24V. I finally got around to looking under the hood this past Friday after his lovely wife ran it out of fuel up on main street (another story).. Anyway I noticed his truck has the same style fuel canister as my 3rd gen.. I`m thinking if the truck were mine I would go with a Baldwin PF7977 5 micron filter along with a good lift pump upgrade. The reason I`m throwing this out there is because I remember seeing somekind of warning on Geno`s website about using 7 micron filters being too restrictive for 2nd gens??? What do you guys think?

What would be the best turbo for a 2001 ho six speed with 100hp ddp injectors

Have set a code 0122 but the truck is running fine. Researching the TPS and it is not very expensive. What is the difference between a TPS with a harness and one without a wiring harness? Both listed for a 2001 diesel. Now to replace it. I think it is behind the housing with the cables that control the throttle. What needs to be removed to get to it? Last question is should I dive in and replace it and how do I reset the trouble codes?

I have 2002 cummins 6 speed with 100hp ddp injectors and s300g 57 65 14 and it spools slow and smokes alot till it spools at about 1700 to 1800rpms then it clears up.

My number 3 injection line snapped off at the vp. I'm looking for any ideas

Check this one out. Looks like it would be cheaper than 2 stroke and lube even better than XDP. http://opti-lube.com/diesel-fuel-improver/xl-diesel-fuel-improver/diesel-fuel-improver-xl.html http://opti-lube.com/downloads/intertektesting.pdf

I've also got a job for a 2001 Dodge truck by a local rancher that has just had a starter fire. When I inspected the truck tonight the truck does indeed still start and run but watching closely I started see white smoke from the starter again. After crawling on my back and looking up there is something damage in the brush plate and shorted out. Which then allowed it to ignite the oil and fuel slobbered on the engine. There is a few 3rd party wires that are burnt but nothing system critical. So when I get back down to doing the job I'll take my camera along and pop some pictures. Safety sake I left the truck with the batteries disconnected till I get back.

Ok... I've followed most of the steps (yes only most) but I get to Number 8 on this diagnostic tool and I get 44.2k ohms.... a bit more than the 5 or less suggested value. Where is the best place to purchase a replacement or have mine rebuilt?? Thanks, Tim http://articles.mopar1973man.com/2nd-generation-24v-dodge-cummins/59-obdii-error-codes/175-p0336-crankshaft-position-sensor-signal 8. Ensure CKP sensor connector and ECM connector are still disconnected. Using ohmmeter, checkresistance between ground and terminal "C" (Gray wire) on CKP sensor connector. If resistance is 5 ohms or more, replace ECM. Perform TEST VER-5A . If resistance is less than …

So this is my first diesel. I've had it about a year and am getting to know it pretty good, but one thing I've always wondered about is my second overdrive's effectiveness with my high gearing. I've got a Unitrax/Gear Vendor/Laycox divorced overdrive with an auto and 3.55 rear end gears. It all came with the truck when I bought it. I know that when I'm driving in double overdrive it seems to run fine and smooth, but it also runs at pretty low rpm. I think around 1500 at 70. I'm generally on relatively flat freeways, so it doesn't seem to stress the drive train, but I wanted to get any input you guys have on this. Is it hard on the truck? A good thing? It's really nice t…