2nd Generation Dodge 24 Valve Powertrain

:think:Okay, so ever since I've had the whole shpiel with the truck last time running funny, it seems it still will throw a couple codes.Going in the mountains this weekend, so I decided I would run a code reader on it see if it is still running good. Well, turns out it threw a P0234 code 2x. Checked the ECM and PCM as well. Dunno if these trucks allow it or not, but the reader said unable to communicate with the ECM.The PCM said there was companion code set.Now, I dunno if anything serious is occuring or not, but I would sure like to figure it out. I definitely would hate the idea of being broke down in the MIDDLE OF NOWHERE!I have suffered from lower fuel mileage rating…

So I was just thinking about exhaust brakes and real Jake brakes for our 5.9. It's a shame no one makes a real Jake for our trucks. The exhaust brake is a great option but a bit of an issue with us owners with autos. So I was just thinking about the 3 cylinder idle. What if a person could engage the 3 cylinder after releasing the accelerator peddle? Would it be a hybrid Jake/Exhaust brake? Would it work? Would it brake or bend things?Thoughts?Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Does anyone know what the VP44 requires in Gallons Per Hour fuel flow on a stock engine? Doing a search gives conflicting info with nothing available from Bosch.Filters are rated in flow amounts per hour, not the psi.Mike, you said 45 GPH is enough, forgive me for beginning to wonder about all this, but, even our stock filter on the engine may not be rated for enough flow. Look at the restrictive banjo fuel system. It wouldn't be the first time I could be wrong on something like this, But why isn't this information available on a Google search from Bosch?Some guys are saying we need to increase the size of the return line too.

After removing the stock air box and K&N filter:nono: and installing the BHAF, I decided to take a look at the turbo. It does not look damaged but it is filthy. At the risk of sounding stupid, what would be the best thing to clean it with? Or would it be best to just leave it alone? Remember I am new to the diesel world! Just don't want to make any costly mistakes or slack on maintenance.

Hey everyone, I just bought my first CTD. It is a 2001 2500 x-cab, long bed 4x4. Has a 4" BDS suspension lift, and air ride. 145k miles. I am loving it so far. I have bought and installed a BHAF already, but other than that it is all bone stock. This is my first diesel so I will probably be posting lots of questions on here. I will be driving this truck daily and eventually will be towing a 5th wheel camper with it. I would like some input on what fuel system setup, and other mods would be the best for what I intend on using it for. Tha…

Since I kept seeing a on/off P0216 that would come and go, I came across a great deal on a new VP-44 rebuild. Do I have to have my codes cleared or will they clear up on their own? If I dont clear the codes, will my truck not operate as normal??BYW, there is an excellent Youtube guide on how to remove and install a VP-44 pump.

Ok so i did the vent relocation mod shortly after i got my truck a couple of years ago, and cleaned the mess out of the radiator. Where the tube exits is just above the front diff/ujoint. It pushes enough oil out of the pipe to completely drench my u joint and drip on the ground. I have seen some videos and it seems this is excessive. :think:I also have a headgasket leaking externally so i figured no need to just go part way. I am saving for a overhaul now. Just wanted to double check the obvious. :banghead:

I have recently bought my first Dodge Cummins, I have been a ford guy prior and am retiring my 1993 7.3L F350 with 330k miles on it. Anyway my pickup is a '02 4X4 5-Speed, all was well for the first week or so that I owned it then it started to the this surging thing, it usually surges between 1500-1900rpm, under load, like accelerating or going up a hill, sometime way worse than other times. [*]I don't show any error codes with the ignition switch way of looking [*]I have reset the APPS [*]I have cleaned my grounds [*]Happens while both while using cruise control and not using cruise control Seems like a Timbo APPS has fixed things similar to t…

I have a problem that ain't really a problem but I can't spool my turbo up for a good launch in 1st gear. It seems the engine just defuels or somethin and I just get about 9lbs of boost max. Smokes like crazy tho so I know it's getting fuel!! Any1 familiar with this??

Got it pulled yesterday and hopefully will get it put in thursday. First thing you will notice is we put safety first. Got it up on blocks and jackstands and looking at it made me feel weary but after getting under it I felt good. Got a the sawzall out and cut the floor for easy access and then had to cut the crossmember out because it had been welded. After all that we pulled the bolts out of the bellhousing and then the clutch and flywheel. Two bolts in holding the clutch on gave us a problem but we finally got them out. Clutch and flywheel looked almost new and the trans had writing on it like it had been rebuilt so hopefully all is good.

So i am in need of some advice on my transmission. It grinds going into 6th gear. I can live with it for now because if I allow the rpms to drop to around 1,000 when i shift it will shift smooth. But I am not the type to leave something like that lingering over my head. I have changed the fluid which helped the tranny a lot. I couldn't even get it in reverse before i changed the fluid. I put the mopar fluid in.I guess I have a bad syncro from what I have read. Does that require a complete rebuild? Should I have it rebuilt when I have someone tear into it? Does anyone know a transmision guy in the Northern Kentucky area? Just trying to get my ducks in a row so I can start …

I'm thinking this is something that would bolt right up to my truck but not 100% sure ? I'm still running factory turbo but with 4" MBRP. Exhaust should also bolt up shouldn't it? It did to my existing turbo. I ask because from his add he doesn't seem positive it will do other years http://www.cumminsforum.com/forum/general-sale-section/516221-jacobs-exhaust-brake.html

I have a 1999 Dodge Ram 2500 diesel. About two months ago it had a cranking but no start issue, it happened about 5 times over 3 weeks. I got a code for crankshaft sensor so I replaced it and no more starting problems. But I also had codes PO 121, PO 236, & PO382, so I sprayed some contact cleaner into the TPS since that worked the last time when I had the problem a few years ago when I got a TPS code. However, after replacing the Crank sensor I was getting operation except for surging before shifting to 4th gear. Annoying, but not enough to search the problem yet.:banghead:About three weeks ago it started from stop like it was in third gear, when I got to 25-30 mph t…

I heard of a discussion from a guy that moved his AIT sensor to the intake tube. Any thoughts on doing that mod?

Anybody ever do their own tc lock up switch? Tst products has a write up t install one for the cost of a toggle switch and a little wire. They tell you to splice into the orange and brown wire coming out of the middle plug at the ecm, run a wire to a toggle switch and then come out of the other leg to ground. Then they tell you to pull the trans relay and jump 2 specific terminals to give the tc lock selonoid constant power. The problem im having is when i jump these 2 terminals the selonoid (im assuming) starts to click rapidly in the trans. This does not seem right and i unplugged it as soon as i located the source of the noise. Anybody have this issue?according to the…

Is there a differance between the Bosch & Nippondenso alternators as far as the electrical hook ups? I will soon be bench testing the alternator and replacing if needed with a new one. For what I have seen online is that only Nippondenso alternators are available new. All the Bosch alternators are rebuilt units. From what I can tell, I currently have an Bosch alternator (stock) in my truck Any input on this would be helpfull.

Customer called me yesterday asked if I could tow their truck in and see if I could figure out what's wrong with it! It's a 99 2500 2wd auto with stock 24v new lift pump and reman vp44. The truck starts and lopes hard with no throttle pedal. No engine codes. Anyone have any ideas? The vp44 was put on about 4 months ago and it's been sitting at another diesel shop for 3.5 months. I don't know where to start!

I am gonna be getting rid of my quadzilla really soon as I am wanting to go to the edge comp box. I just can't decide whether I wanna get the hot unlock or not, please fell free to give your , Thanks

Ok Gang...I've got a project on a 2002 Dodge Cummins 2500 (no not mine). I've installed a fuel pressure gauge it holding 15-16 PSI at idle and about 11-12 PSI at WOT but at low speeds that I've seen. Here is the problem the codes have P0216 code present no others but its got a partial dead pedal. You can mat the pedal to the floor and it barely rolls along at 5-15 MPH then all of sudden like the ECM or the VP44 wakes up and hang on she powering up. There is no codes for APPS sensor so I'm not considering the APPS sensor. But now I know that 2 cases of ECM failure I seen where the throttle is limited (CajFlynn is one of them). Knowing both the ECM and VP44 are $1,000 dolla…

Seems to only do this when it gets warmed up...Coming off of the highway, stopping, then turning, it feels like the rear end has a locker...It does have limited slip. But sometimes if feels like its grabbing when you turn, and you can almost hear the tires breaking loose a little. I did change the rear end oil @ 1 year ago. I put Valvoline duralbend synthetic blend 80w90 oil in it. And it says its for limited slip...Maybe try a different oil??