2nd Generation Dodge 24 Valve Powertrain

I am going to do the 930k service this weekend. I will change the trans fluid, oil and coolant. Other than that the truck is running great.

New owner & still getting accustomed to my truck ('99 3500). I was reading another thread here in the 24v powertrain forum & the poster mentioned the check gauges notification coming on in his cluster, as if that was an indication of a problem. I noticed this notification on my truck; it will temporarily illuminate immediately after start-up (all gauges indicate normal), and will go out after about 5 seconds or so. I figured this was normal operation but after reading about all the troubles the other fellow was having I now wonder if it is. Is there anything I should be following up with? Appreciate your patience & help, Joe in St Louis

For any one here that has or had or will have a leaking CRANK SEAL or Timing gear Cover...check out the link below..."hope it works" LOL. I installed mine a while back and took plenty of photos incase any body else had to do this, it might make it easier... http://s1209.photobucket.com/albums/cc389/rburks1/Crank%20seal%20install/ SLIDESHOW VIEW http://s1209.photobucket.com/albums/cc389/rburks1/Crank%20seal%20install/?albumview=slideshow Richie --- Update to the previous post... I apologize Guys.. the photos are not any order like from start to finish...i tried to do this 3-times and thought i had them arranged that way but after i post…

This morning I started my 01 3500 like I do everyday. Everything seemed normal, after about 15 mins. of warming up, I got back in the truck to a check engine light. I checked the codes, I had two (P0237,P1693). I drove the truck and had no noticeable signs of problems. Is this something I need to have checked out? Any help Appreciated.

Think I am going to do this.Found this turbo - its a reman off a FEDEX truck.I am 99% sure its a HX35WJust wanna see if anyone knows if it will fit -> looks like it might be missing the part from the exhaust turbine back to the downpipe ???? If so - does it have a name and where can I get one - or can I used my existing one ?? :shrug:Basically will this work.

Hey its just recently gotten cold here and Ive noticed when it has set over night and is cold when it first starts up is blows some blue smoke. I was wondering if this is normal or not. It does it when it gets less than 20 degrees and goes away after a few minutes. I have a basically stock truck just wondering if this is normal or not and what causes it. Thanks

How trust worthy are these things? I found a 01 eng. with 48k miles for 5k shipped what you think? My plan is to buy another eng. and rebuild my eng. a little at a time. Maybe find another truck at some point that needs a eng.

Going to get a boost fooler,just getting opinions on which is the best one. I have an 01 H.O. that is getting RV275's put in and a boost elbow:shrug:

Do the cummins brand of t stats have a fail safe?The question is when they go bad are they made to brake in the open position? My engine gets hot 190.The t stat housing is hot. The radiator fluid is cold.I am thinking water pump. The radiator and heater core were flushed in summer.

Took my truck and trailer (trailer rated for 14000kg) and drove 3.5 hours to pick up a backhoe attachment, drove back. Filled up and checked my mileage and was very dissapointed to see the result! 11.6 mpg

Now that it is getting colder outside I'm preparing to change oil in my truck. I live in Illinois just East of St. Louis. Occasionally the temps will fall below 10*F which is out of the 15w-40 range according to the chart. I'm curious what some of you guys do regarding oil changes and viscosity? Do you change oil in the fall to 10w-30 and then again in the spring back to 15w-40? I know I can buy 5w-40 but all I've seen is a full synthetic. I only put about 6k on my personal truck in a year, so when I had my gasser I would change oil at the 3k mark. I've only got about 2500 miles on this truck since the last oil change. I hate to change oil unnecessarily but again…

My exhaust manifold has a small crack....doubt there is any way to repair this besides replacement.Anyone have suggetions on what aftermarket manifold to buy? not sure what mods I will end up doing to this truck down the road....nothing to extreme though. Just want somthing that will help it breathe better,won't crack and won't brake the bank

Just took my truck to the voltex battery today and had new batteries installed, I figured its about time the old ones were 6 years old and weak. They put it 2 of the 65 group size blems (2nds) for $35.00 each, left there with $75.00 out the door with a 1 year warranty . I work at advance auto parts, part time and they are $90.00 each with my discount. If anyone has a battery store that sell blems that will save you a lot of money.

Well if Cummins cant fix it it's doomed to fall of a clif. I took truck to cummins to let them try. Well if I had stock injectors he said they could search for leaks by pressure the system. And there stock injectors are about 500.00 each, thats what he said,I dont know. They did the usual routine stuff, hook up scanner and the usual stuff came up NOTHING. They seemed sure that the crossover tubes where leaking and one may have been. It runs a little diff. but miss is still there. Here is where I am at,new DDP 50 HP injectors, ECM,Apps,crossover tubes, cam sensor, VP Blue Chip, Head rebuilt, Starter, Alternator, water pump, thermostat & sensor, new airdog 150 with quic…

Upgrading your diesel. In order to upgrade your diesel from stock, you should have a baseline of readings in order to know what has changed. Also, if you do multiple upgrades at one time and something goes wrong, you will not know which upgrade caused the problem or error code. In order to know what is happening to the engine, you should have at the minimum compliment of aftermarket gauges. At the minimum for Dodges, you need a fuel pressure gauge, boost gauge, and EGT gauge. Those with automatic transmissions should also have a transmission temperature gauge. With these gauges and a stock engine you will proceed to gather information as to how well the engine…

Ok guess I am just stupid. Repacing my radiator and got it out without having to remove the fan clutch.But tried and couldn't budge it. Searched this site and other places on how to remove it. Some places say there are holes in pulley mine does not. Tried using a rubber belt ratchet thing to hold pulley. Didn't work. Found this pic of tools to use but not sure what that 71 mm wrench holds. The 36 goes on nut holding fan clutch but where does 71 mm wrench go to ????Thanks Rob

So yesterday I was driving in winter like conditions, busted through two snow drifts, shortly after that my dash went dead except the tach. 'No bus' was displayed in the odometer and my over head consol had 'CCd'. I was able to get to a small town only about 70 miles from home before the batteries gave out. I just put on an ecm and pcm from a 99 manual, so I am not sure if the ecm gave out or if it might be an electrical issue? I tried to read the codes with my Smarty but it seems that it can not find the ecm, it just keeps telling me to turn the key off then turn the key on. I do have a down load on the Smarty so I am also wondering if the ecm is toast is there any …

Is it pretty common for these trucks to not come equipped with overdrive?

My lights are on and it pulses like a bad rotor.Can anyone tell me what to check.I had all this problem before i replaced the wheelbearings,rotors and ball-u-joints.When i am light on them around 30mph it seems ok, hit them hard the pedal pulses.I only have a smarty to check codes so i cant get into the abs computer.

I bought this truck a couple of weeks ago with the owner telling me that he thought it needed a new VP44. The one in it was rebuilt just over a year ago. I've been working on some of its other problems and trying to figure out if it is in fact the injection pump that is causing the trucks problems. Basically the truck will sometimes start missing and farting. Sometimes it is just a minor little blip and sometimes it is bad enough that it will die at idle. It happens at all RPM ranges but is definetly worse when there is no throttle applied. Some days it does this right off the bat and other you can drive for 30 miles without any problems. When I got the truck it had codes…