2nd Generation Dodge 24 Valve Powertrain
This is a discussion forum of the 1998.5 to 2002 2nd Generation Dodge Ram Trucks with 5.9L Cummins 24 Valve Turbo Diesel power train and drive line system. This includes all sub-system including wiring, fuel, oil, exhaust, air, transmission, computers and sensors.
6,283 topics in this forum
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I want to preface this by saying I have gone to all the local auto parts stores looking for a map sensor and had to order one. But last night, I was wondering what the best way to get the map sensor looks like it is too thin to get a socket into, and I couldn't finagle a wrench onto the head. Any help would be immensely appreciated.
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I've been fighting a blend door issue where if you turned the temperature up to warm up the cab and later want to turn it to a cooler setting the door wouldn't move. You had to turn it up hotter and then quickly down lower and it would start to cool down. Now Being I've never done a heater treater yet I was thinking the shaft broke and hanging it up. I grabbed Mark and asked him for an offset Phillips driver. With little patience, I managed to remove the two Phillips screws and removed the stepper motor for the blend door. I was shocked my shaft coupler was still going strong. Then I popped open the steeper motor lubed the gears with …
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Needing some opinions, here’s what’s up. My 2000 just rolled over 300K, everything that has ever even thought about needing to be replaced has been with oem or better parts. I’m on the original injectors, original VP44, original head gasket, and original turbo. My Tappet cover is leaking pretty bad, and aside from that leak I’ve not had any leaks other than a little weeping at the oil pan. My question is, should I just do the Tappet cover and keep going, or should I go ahead and do injectors, VP, oil pan gasket, new turbo, rebuild vacuum pump, front main seal, ect while I’ve got everything pulled apart. I am usually a “it ain’t broke” kinda guy, but at 300K I have to cons…
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I just need the bushings for a 2000, 3500. I'm not trusting what I am seeing online. Where would you guys purchase?
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So the last code I had to deal with was one for the IAT... ordered a replacement and put it in... The old one looked "melted" https://photos.app.goo.gl/T5s5ek2kwEQnGqBE6 and I discounted because I haven't touched it since 2008.... WHAT would make the temps in the IAT chamber go up so fast? Burnt valve? I don't have an exhaust brake... ECM??? would the ECM somehow confuse the interpreted signal? I mean I did watch the temp slowly drop when I turned vehicle off. Vehicle did get new injectors, it is possible valve clearances got "changed", guy doing the work stated the rockers appeared "loose" but I don't know on which valves. I don't think this is a new thin…
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My 2000 Dodge 24v (with 540k mi) started to run rough then stopped. Thought it was the VP44. Installed clear tubing between fuel filter canister and VP44, purged air and got running. Like someone flipped a switch, LOTS of air showed up in clear tubing, engine faltered and I shut it down. Put clear line between Raptor RP-100 and tank: purged air, got running, no air, then engine shut down on its own. Put clear tubing on pressure side of RP-100 with additional clear tubing back between filter canister and VP44: tiny, tiny bubbles by RP-100 and then, like someone flipped a switch, aquarium aerator bubbles after fuel filter canister. Replaced canister top, put new "O" r…
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Why would a scan on my truck 1998.5 dodge 3500 24 valve pull up Mercedes indo
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Hey guys I'm kinda new here. I been reading for months and now I have questions lol. So I got a couple 12v trucks which I love and now I bought a 24v. So far I like the truck but the electrical issues are driving me nuts. My truck still has the warranty installed in tank lift pump. I recently had the vp die so I put a good one on. Changed filter as well. Truck ran mint after. The next day i get this rough idle. So i check fuel pressure its around 13psi and never goes under 10. Scanned it and did the key trick. I have a 1693 with key trick and two 1688 with the scanner. EGT low and EGT high...there is no egt on this truck soo im confused there.. the truck runs mint just a…
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Gates K080810HD Micro-V Gates K080810 Micro-V Other ideas that last a long time?
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been having problems recently with the trans in my truck (47re) sort of hanging in 2nd first time was maybe a month ago after a rather fast pull off from a standstill but after it wouldn't change up from 2 to 3 I backed off a little and it changed up, was ok for days then happened again sometimes after accelerating. This morning I accelerated at traffic lights to beat a real slow car oncoming, did over 5 miles in 2nd and no matter what I did it would not change to 3rd Got to my workshop and checked the trans oil, brown but not burnt, time to change it but it's not done 20k Had to use my truck today towing my mobile workshop, set off from my workshop to th…
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I finally noted my fuel pressure on my 2001 work truck last week. I was surprised to see it bouncing around 10 psi. Also I was surprised that I have been too busy to notice for quite awhile. Looking in my maintanence schedule I see that both fuel filters have not been changed for 76,000 miles ! How did that happen I asked. As I drove home and fuel temps rose the pressure climbed to 15 still short of the 19 it was set for. It has to be making the lift pump work harder. Today both filters will be changed. Normally everything is watched closely on both trucks, kept on schedule but, I missed this one. Kinda shows a limit how long two filters working together can also help eac…
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Had all 5 of these codes pop up at once after changing all of my better connections while trying to figure out my electrical issues. I’ve been dealing with a p0121 off and on for 3-4 months, replaced my APPS, dead pedal came back 3 wks later. Coincidentally my trans (auto) started not going into gear in drive or reverse until I rev up to about 1k rpm’s. I did the BD diesel noise isolator and for a few days it drove perfectly with zero shifting issues or dead pedal. Then started having overboost codes and then the truck randomly died twice. Replaced batteries and redid connections and triple checked the connections, and now I have those 5 codes. Thinking ECM going out due …
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99 Dodge 2500 24v p pump man trans. WT- ground wire mod has been done. Fass pump. It started periodically no gauges then a mile or two down the road all gauges would start working ? Was always in a hurry. Never messed with it. Have a Edge II and it would lose connection, touch the screen would it come back on screen. Never showed NO BUS on dash, when this took place. This has probably been going on close to two years. I never was able to look at it. I got Covid 4 times and was very sick. Better now. Gauge issue has gotten much worse as of last month. I would cycle the ignition and the gauges would stumble and eventually come back. If the truck sat for 2-3 days batteries…
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Hey again guys. Picked up a '99 2500 today with a few issues, chief amongst which is the converter not locking up. Overdrive works just fine. I began troubleshooting today, but I could use some input. It had a bunch of codes before I began measuring, most seemed to be related to the previous owners lockup switch because once I removed the jump between the relay 30 and 87a pins, and installed a relay in its place the codes could be reset and wouldn't come back. Now, according to the previous owner the lockup suddenly stopped working, not gradually. Solenoid assembly is new, and I've checked the contact at the transmission, it looks good and clean. When I measur…
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I have a puzzle to try and figure out. A friend brought his truck to me because it was bucking and surging. I drove it, it was. I checked fuel pressure and found zero fuel pressure from the lift pump. Truck was running without lift pump fuel pressure. He said to me he had just replaced that intank pump about a year ago. This truck had the original lift pump on the side of the engine replace ten or twelve years ago so this is the second intank pump. What I found was when I bypassed the relay the pump would run, put out about 14.5 PSI. I found that the in line fuse that is in the power feed line to the relay was disintegrated. The only thing left were the prongs of…
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I just made a run from northern CA to southern Oregon. All was good on the way up but on the way back I noticed some surging, especially when at light throttle on flat road or off the throttle going down hill (coasting but still running 2000 rpm) . I switched tunes from my MoparMan mileage tune to the tow tune and no difference. I also hit the overdrive button and no difference. Fuel pressure was always 15lbs or more. By the time I got home I had a check engine light and it was 0236, Map sensor. I have cleared the codes numerous times and I might get away with driving a hundred miles or so with no code but the surging continues. A day or so later, the code comes back. …
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So it never caught my eye before but Its bent. Either someone before me backed into something or jacked it up by the sway bar. Its got to be replaced so go back with stock or is there something better?
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I have used a 150-amp fuse on the last three W-T mods I have done and want to try a circuit breaker on the next one. So my question is which 150 amp circuit breaker did you use that is trouble free and where did you get it.
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Hello all first time poster here. I have a 2002 2500 cummins that will crank but no start. I thought I had a bad ecm so I sent the ecm off to be rebuilt along with the pcm due to the age and mileage on the truck. I have received my computers back and hooked everything back up and to my frustration I still have the same issue. I checked the black and brown wire on the ecm I believe pin #30 and came back with 9.99 to 9.97 ohms according to my reading anything less than 10 ohms means it’s a bad ecm. Are these numbers so close that one shouldn’t condemn the ecm as bad again or no that’s a issue right there? Any help or advice would be greatly appreciated I will also be contac…
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hi i have a 2000 dodge ram 3500 24v cummins. just recently all the dash lights and gauges power up on there own, like the ignition was turned on but the key was in the off position. i could tilt the steering wheel back and fourth this would make the powed turn off. i started the engine and it would not turn off until i tilted the steering wheel. the truck has higher miles so i replaced the ignition switch hoping that was the issue, but the issue came back tonight. also when you shut the passenger side door kinda hard it would make the dash and gauges power on. i figured i would run it by you and see what you thought. thanks in advance
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