2nd Generation Dodge Non-Powertrain

Hey fellas, about to replace the hub/bearing assembly in my '01 2500 2wd. I thought I've read that the new axle nut going on should be 185 ft-lbs. But I've read another source that it should actually be 280 ft-lbs. It said 185 is for 1500s and 280 is for 2500/3500s. Is this correct? Or just internet folklore? I just borrowed a loaner 30-250 ft-lbs torque wrench from AutoZone. If it's indeed 280, I'll need to find another source for a higher capacity torque wrench.

I need one of these! Does anyone have one to sell or know off hand where I can easily get one?! Thank you!!

Ok so I replaced my contacts in my starter a week ago when my truck wouldn't start that fixed that issue! Now tonight I went out to start it and I noticed that mt lift pump ran for only 3 to 5 seconds and then I waited for the to go out and it just cranks, and I get no codes. So I turned the key to the "off" position and then turned the key to the "on" position and this time the lift pump ran like it's supposed to for about 20 to 25 seconds, and the came back on and I waited for it to go out and tryed it again still just cranks with no codes. Now iv'e only had the truck a year, and replaced the fuel filter twice and each time I bumped it like required but I had to crack…

I'm going to replace the upper ball joints on my truck (2002 2500hd 2wd) anyone have any tips pointers for this type job.Thinking i'll need to but weight of truck on jack stand or second floor jack to prevent spring from pushing to ground once the upper ball joint is broken loose ?The rivets drill out or cut out tops of rivet with dremel tool, any easier methods for this ?Any suggestions appreciatedThanks in advance,Tony

Here you go AH64ID. So there are many variables of fuels that make them unique. The way they are measured that determines their quality is also different. For instance, diesel uses cetane and gasoline uses octane. The way cetane works and the way octane works are very different. The way gasoline ignites and the way diesel ignites is also very different. How the fuel acts and burns determines the kind of engine they are used in. There is a reason diesel/biodiesel/oils are used in a compression engine and why propane/gasoline are used in spark ignition engines. This thread will be meant to explain the differences and how the different ratings of fuels work, why they…

I recently pulled the bed off my truck to replace the brake line that runs between the tank and the frame. After I reinstalled the bed and connected the lights I have no tail lights, and my dash won't illuminate when I turn the head lights on. I do have brake lights, turn sigs. and back up lights. All the fuses seem to be good. Any suggestions? Thanks

Looking at doing the IAT resistor. What wattage do i need for the resistor? Do i need any other ends for it or just plug it in.

I have been wanting a heated seat for some time, especially after driving a jetta with heated seats. Anyway long story short is a got the whole front and rear leather seats. Power and heat on both sides. have the switches that go in the dash. Also got the storage tray under the back seat and the woodgrain dash. I guess my question is...how much grief is it to get the heat to work. My drivers seat is power and that was plug and play. This is probably going to mean I need a wire harness...ugh. Regards Chris

I was walking out to my truck and noticed the frame was wet with oil in the driver side wheel well. Drove my truck home and found that it was leaking PS fluid from the fitting on the steel line that goes from the side of the hydroboost to the steering gear PS hose. I loosened the fitting that connects to the hydroboost thinking I just needed to replace the o-ring but found the idiot that owned my truck before me cross threaded the fitting into the hydro boost and messed the threads up on both the hydroboost and steel line. Since I drive this truck long distances I already got a new hydroboost (original one to the truck, replaced to be safe) but I cant find the line I need…

I just recently installed tow mirrors on my truck and wanted to share info I had found as I had pinched a few wires on my driver side mirror. The instructions with my tow mirrors didn’t even mention wiring. I thought I had them routed as optimal as possible but nope. Anyways, below are some pictures and a video of wire routing. These aren’t mine but it is how I routed mine after fixing my pinched wires.

I just sent my ECM off to Auto Computer Specialists to be worked on. Received it back, put it back in and it ran great for about 2 weeks. Threw a 1287 code, lost all fuel pressure, engine died, and "no bus" showed in the odometer, and the WTS is flashing again . Waited 5 minutes or so, tried to start it up and acted like nothing was wrong. Originally it had a 1287 code, they fixed the fuel pump circuit, the engine would lug at initial start up, and the voltage regulator was erratic and WTS light was flashing. Batteries are charged and grounds are clean. Any suggestions as what my next step is?

Taking all my loose parts to the paint shop Friday. Have both driver side doors, 2 fenders, bed and tailgate and maybe the tonneau cover to get sprayed. The shop we use at work is slow right now so might as well take advantage of it and replace all the rusty and dented parts. Just have to get everything removed so the parts are bare and pressure wash them.

I have a mostly stock cummins. Only plan on upgrades that increase reliability and efficiency. Had my air filter off today and have been monitoring an oily buildup on the intake side of the turbo. I can now feel lateral movement on the turbo shaft. Figure I am needing a solution. Any reason to upgrade my turbo? Is a rebuild kit and self rebuild a feasible job for us backyard mechanics? Send it off for rebuild? Buy a rebuilt unit? I don't spend money on bling, so just looking for a cost effective yet long term solution.

00 2500 4x4 quad cab so I had to replace my heater core it was leaking replaced the evaporator core as well the ac never worked when I bought truck figured while I was replacing those I would do the liquid line and the drier as well everything seems to be operating right compressor is cycling but still not getting cold air in cab I checked blend door it is operating correct I believe any help would be appreciated I have no gauges also

looking at the pictures I thought that you had rear disc brake pics and earlier drum brakes mixed in the article. Now I realize that there is a set of drum shoes inside there for parking brake. Wow, :banghead:Do these shoes wear out very often? Should I plan on replacing with my rear pads/rotors?

Is there an aftermarket solution for the event hose and filler hose? Cummins wants $180

I replaced the condenser in the '00 couple of weeks ago, (the one that looked extremely suspect after the deer strike). Finally getting around to pulling it down and recharging, hopefully this weekend. The system wasn't totally discharged, but I replaced it anyway. What is the rule of thumb for when a particular component is replaced for amount of oil to replenish? Thanks

Has anyone replaced the dash cap with a new one? On my 96, which should be the same for 94 - 97, How do you get to the screws on passenger side and the defrost vents? No problem removing the old dash because it was so broken I could just about reach in from the top. However to install the new dash there are screws on the passenger side and on the defrost vents that have to be screwed in from the windshield side of the dash. I understand that I need to unbolt and tilt the entire dash toward the seat but it still looks near impossible to reach these screws. Any experienced advice?

So I ordered a pack of LED cab lights last fall and just now I'm getting around to installing them after I got thr 2nd 1 on I realized that my truck has 6 cab lights. All the kits are for 5. So I was just wondering if having 6 was an option or if someone installed after the fact. The ones I'm removing seem to be factory.

Ok Mopar Man. I own a 99 24v, recently sold my 98 12v quad cab long box, lift, 37's 389HP, custom paint I mixed up(based of a kia color, yea i worked in auto body for three years) I built it from the frame up, three months and many blood sweet and beers ` Anyways, I have installed 02 fog lights via toggle switch activated relay, my pickup was a non fog light rig. I also have my low beams on at all times. I just shorted the power wire from the headlight switch when the headlights are on to the low beam kicker wire in the multi-function switch. My problem is I have installed 100w aircraft lights on my bumper, much like yours and the ones i have in my rear bumper i buil…