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We are privately owned, with access to a professional Diesel Mechanic, who can provide additional support for Dodge Ram Cummins Diesel vehicles. Many detailed information is FREE and available to read. However, in order to interact directly with our Diesel Mechanic, Michael, by phone, via zoom, or as the web-based option, Subscription Plans are offered that will enable these and other features.  Go to the Subscription Page and Select a desired plan. At any time you wish to cancel the Subscription, click Subscription Page, select the 'Cancel' button, and it will be canceled. For your convenience, all subscriptions are on auto-renewal.

2nd Generation Dodge Non-Powertrain

Discussion of the 1994 to 2002 2nd Generation Dodge Ram Trucks with 5.9L Cummins Turbo Diesel non-power train. This includes interior, air conditioning, heating, lighting, body, suspension, brakes, stereos, etc.

  1. Started by beautifulisblue,

    Hey Folks, Not sure what it is called, but the piece of foam in the front of the door jam. (my internet is too slow to run the parts catalog) Anyone replaced or repaired one of these when it fell out? Wondering i can use adhesive to put it back in place. My truck is already loud enough in the wind, not sure I want anything else to add to the sound. Thanks

  2. 2002 I finally had a driver side door lock fail me. I pull all the locks (passenger and driver) then the ignition lock and took them to George's Lock and Key in Lewiston ID and had them gone through. I've got the locks back in the truck and the linkage in the door was getting stiff from all the years. I power washed the inside of the doors and the latch assemble and lubed it up really well with silicone spray. Now I'm just waiting for a bit of extra funds I'm going to buy a new set of speakers for the front doors and a bag of door panel fasteners. Reassemble for the last time. I've pulled the panels off for window motor (passenger side), then added towing mirrors (Both si…

  3. Started by DRGABE,

    Hello. Checking to see if anyone has also experienced this. With engine running, attempt to turn headlights on and engine dies, as if it were a kill switch, and will not start. Some research suggested to remove park lamp fuse. It worked, but now no running lights except headlights. Brakes and hazards do work, but my concern is with tail/marker/license plate and front ambers. Can this be as easy as a bad ground or am I looking at a full ECM replacement again? Thanks , DRG

  4. Started by Lund1990,

    So I ordered a pack of LED cab lights last fall and just now I'm getting around to installing them after I got thr 2nd 1 on I realized that my truck has 6 cab lights. All the kits are for 5. So I was just wondering if having 6 was an option or if someone installed after the fact. The ones I'm removing seem to be factory.

  5. Hi! Finishing up the install of the Bluetop steering gear tonight and I'm second-guessing myself. How deep should the steering shaft (I think it's called) go onto the new gear box splined input? I attached two pics. first shows about the length of the gearbox input, and second is as far as I could shove the steering shaft onto that gearbox input spline. Does that look like a good depth? if not, any tricks for getting it on further? It's been a bit of a battle so far.

  6. Started by Asayers71,

    I recently went to replace my APPS due to a fault code. I replaced with a genuine Cummins APPS and I tested voltage it either shows .08 or 4.38 and nothing in between even when the screw is adjusted. I thought I had the screw in the right place and went to leave and I immediately got dead pedal. I reset the battery and backed the screw off and everything was fine except my turn signal stopped working, lighter outlet stopped and AC stopped. All AC components were replaced last year and AC was working when I was working on the truck. I have tested the high pressure and low pressure switch, relay, and fuse. I have cleaned the grounds. The compressor kicks on but no cold come…

  7. Started by jlwelding,

    Mine is starting to crack.

  8. Started by Sycostang67,

    I finally got around to installing my Geno’s dash top and junkyard dash core. This also marks the near completion of my interior color swap. The only thing I have left to do is paint the overhead console. I also installed a new pioneer head unit I had ordered several years ago as well. It’s so nice having everything on the dash attached to something else. I used a dash core from a slightly older truck which only has the one driver side power port. I didn’t realize my airbag switch wouldn’t fit so I hid it behind the dash and got the other power port from the junkyard that properly filled the hole.

  9. Started by kbf98520,

    Good afternoon. I’m in the process of hooking up Autometer gauges on pillar pod. I’d like the lighting to illuminate and dim with the factory gauges. What is the best way to accomplish that?

  10. Started by Sycostang67,

    My new Mustang has spoiled me with its heated seats but unfortunately I can’t drive it in the snow. I found this universal seat heater at work and decided to give it a try. It was pretty easy to install as the factory covers kind of snap on. I didn’t even remove the top cover, just opened the bottom and had enough room to slide it up inside. There was plenty of space on the switch panel for the new switch as well. It works great, I put it on high and it heats up quickly. I usually drop it down to low after a bit though. It costs about $70 and took less than an hour to install.

  11. Started by Sycostang67,

    If your seatbelts are stiff or slow to retract, I found this little trick online that really helped mine out. I was constantly having to force feed my seatbelts back into the retractors and it was driving me nuts. I got some clamps, pulled my belts all the way out and used the clamps to hold them out. I filled two medium sized bowls with hot water and dawn dish soap and let the belts soak overnight. The next day I changed the water and used a brush to scrub them a bit and then did my best to dry them with a towel. I left the widows down and let the belts finish air drying for the day. When I removed the clamps the belts were slow to retract from having the springs …

  12. Started by stvncwby,

    Been messing with link lx odb adapter .. seem to like it just can figure out the setting for the fuel mpg .. and the brake specific had to move it down to like 250 from 393 factory is to make it close to my hp rating.. and instant mpg are like 40-50 mpg which we all no isn't true I baby it I might get 17.5 mpg .. anyone have advice on fine tuning these display Screen_Recording_20250114_102928.mp4

  13. @mace, I have performed the power steering pump and vacuum pump conversion that you brought to this site. I hope you are still perusing the site and will see this. The time and effort spent on this project (and the APPS relocate) has been very worthwhile. Much engine space has been freed up and the power steering reservoir is right where it should be for easy fluid check / fill. The reservoir is like the brake master cylinder reservoir – you can see the fluid level through the reservoir. An unexpected benefit is that this direct mount power steering pump outperforms any previous power steering pump that has been on this truck. There is no more …

  14. I mostly use my truck for longer trips, sometimes vacations with my truck camper and sometimes 2+ hour each way work trips into pretty rural areas. My long time practice has been to try to keep a pretty complete tool kit as well as some spare parts (heater hose, serpentine belt etc) with me. In general if I find myself needing a particular wrench etc while doing maintenance at home then I try to have it in the truck if practical. That said, with this Dodge I feel like my tool bag is getting kinda huge. This thing has metric fasteners, a few SAE, torx, etorx hex and that one darn 10mm 12pt socket needed for the starter. Plus on my last adventure replacing the vacuum p…