2nd Generation Dodge Non-Powertrain

My AC/Heater (fan on)is acting up again.... The fan doesnt go on all the time when I start the truck. I replaced the Fan motor and the speed control dohickey awhile ago, that wasnt the problem After I drive for awhile 2 - 5 minutes the fan will go on, start blowing air..... I thought it might be the control knob assembly on the dash( on off ac/ heat/ fan speed) but I dont think that's the problem either. Its been working good for many months , now again in the AM or if I park the truck for a couple hours and start it, not even touching the control knobs , The AC and fan doesnt go on untill I drive a few miles and then it goes on and works / blows cold …

I noticed that my A/C was getting weak again so I checked the pressure. It was down. I added 5 12 oz. cans to get the pressure back up. I had a charge line come loose on me and I lost a good bit before I caught it. I don't think all 5 cans went into the system. With the temp at about 90 degrees outside, I got the low side pressure to about 58 psi and the high side was around 250 psi. I could hear something leaking down at the compressor when I shut the engine down. I think that may be where my leak is. DUH!!! :banghead: I am gonna check the A/C again today and see how it performs. With a fresh charge of R134a, the output temp in the middle A/C outlet was about …

I recently had the parking brake hang up a little while leaving for work in the morning. I know the cable from the left rear wheel is in bad shape, outer casing is bunched up and looks to be the culprit. I would like to just replace both cables going to the rear wheels. They aren't very expensive on RA but there are so many I'm not entirely sure which ones to order. Am I going to have to measure the cables since there seems to be different lengths? There also seems to be a cut off, parts must have changed after 7/00. Mine was built 2/00 so I at least figured that part out. Truck should be in the sig but just in case it's a 2001 (man. Date of 2/00 ) ram 3500 quad ca…

No power to fuel pump or injection pump code 1694 Cummins says ecm ok truck just shut down on interstate

I have a chance to buy some factory 17" wheels and tires but he has no center caps and lug nuts. Will my lug nuts and center caps off my 01 with aluminum wheels work? Is the taper on the acorn the same and does anyone have a picture of what it will look like? Thanks in advance.

Discovered black particles/flakes in my fuel tank. I assume this is from BIO fuel. Wiped what I could reach out of tank as well as residual diesel. Would like to wash it out in effort to reach crevices etc. Any suggestion on a cleaner I might use? Thanks. Leaky

I'm looking at adding a dump bed setup to my QCSB. "Most" kits I see are for every combo BUT the QCSB on 2G trucks. Why? WTF is so different?At any rate, anyone here have a dump bed installed? I'd prefer and OTB (over the bumper) style, and not an insert, as I've no room to store an insert when not in use.Stealth Dump Trucks, Inc. has my favorite one, but not for a 2G QCSB...EZ Dumper insert is like 1800$ and, well, it's an insert...

When I hit my brakes hard all my lights and radio and everything went out and came back as soon as I let off the pedal. Does this mean electriacal short?

Why the heck are they so freaking expensive?!

I found the ball joints on my truck were loose so I am going to replace them with MOOG stuff this weekend and I was thinking about investing in a decent ball joint press. Has anybody out there used one, if so what brand were you happy with? Is there any tricks that you have learned after changing yours?

I walk to my truck the other day and found that one of my rear leafs on the was missing a 4 inch piece out of it. I am looking for opinions on which way to go. Rock auto as new one anywhere from 150-250 a side, the local spring shop said that they would replace the broken spring and the same spring on the other side along with re curving them for 600. Or I could have local shop, deaver, or atlas spring build me a set that would get rid of the factory block which would cost me around 1200-1500. I would like to know as anyone run leaf that have got rid of the factory leafs and put in after market leafs. Along with when you replaced the leafs did you notice any difference in…

I've got a 2001 2500HD with aluminum wheels, wondering if they will swap onto my 97 ?

Trying to figure out the best tire pressure to run in BFG 265/75R16. I have a 2001 quad cab short bed 4WD. My daily drive is about 30 miles round trip with about 60% highway. Trying to balance ride quality with tread wear. Truck has hard tonneau cover, rear bumper that weighs about 140-150, and about 150 lbs of stereo equipment, and Bilstein shocks. Otherwise pretty much stock as far as weight goes. Please let me know what you think.

Does anyone have a link to, size , the plastic fastener/clips that hold the inner front fender wells? My stocks are some kind of two piece clip I think Or is the a better fitting clip to use? Two piece removable? Mine are all loose/ rattle or missing My back fender wells I used small SS bolts because easy access to remove .

So Friday night, we attempted to replace my ball joints. All week, I've been soaking the hub assembly and associated hardware with rust penetrate.Bottom line:Broke $1400 in Snap-On and Matco tools, and NEVER got the axle nut off, nor did we get the hub out. Afterward, we tried using the hub press tool thingy from Snap-On, where you use the hub bolts (backed out some) and use the power steering to press the hub out.. Yeah... DESTROYED the right-inner TRE; turned it into a horseshoe.. it's as if the spindle and hub are now one-piece, thanks to rust...So, I had to replace that. Never did get the hub out. I suppose next weekend, I'll just cut the ball joints , slid…

Situation: Beginning a new job soon with 145 mile daily commute on hilly, curvy roads. Limited snow and ice. Truck still has play in steering, poor OEM lights, and mileage is sadly around 12mpg the last time I calculated it. Steering was some improved after addition of Luke's Link, but at highway speeds of 70mph the truck required me to keep 2 hands on the wheel to make sure I had control at all times. Truck: ’99 Quad Cab w/8 ft bed. Installed lower(?) balls joints on both sides a couple years ago, er...had installed. Installed Luke’s Link on OEM track bar Aug 2015 as I put on new tires and it could be aligned due to slop in the front end. Goal: 1st is safet…

It was a nice day out, and i had the camera, while working out some bugs in the front end... Most recent today, with the traction bars fully installed, and hopefully, the bugs with the front end worked out...

Anyone have one of these? Not to sound stupid but I see it says they handle the load put on the headlight switch to keep it form burning up, but is an actual headlight bulb designed to withstand the heat of both elements on at the same time for an extended period of time I wonder? http://www.genosgarage.com/prodinfo.asp?number=BB-M4B-FLCU

Anyone running these bulbs on their 2nd gen ? http://www.ebay.ca/itm/121613143001

Hi all, So I have always wanted to upgrade my steering to a sold tie rod setup, and to fix the popping/clunking noise my steering wheel makes when turned. I recently came across this page http://www.mark74.com/ram_modifications.htm#crossover%20steering and I would like to hear from guys who have done the 98-99 heavy duty steering upgrade on a 2000-01. Also from anyone who had done the Rock Solid Steering Bushing on the same year truck. It all sounds too good to be true and I'm wondering why these mods aren't more common if they are so great? Only bad thing I've heard about either is that the bushing for the Rock Solid Steering can get tight in cold …