2nd Generation Dodge Non-Powertrain
Discussion of the 1994 to 2002 2nd Generation Dodge Ram Trucks with 5.9L Cummins Turbo Diesel non-power train. This includes interior, air conditioning, heating, lighting, body, suspension, brakes, stereos, etc.
2,734 topics in this forum
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Has anyone done this mod? Video makes access look easy, but with the hydro assist brakes not sure. They might also make a good vendor. I'll check that out.
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Working on my rear brakes this evening I discovered an unfortunate problem - my pass. side axle seal is done for. There's a nice nasty coating of oil on the inside of the drum, and the snout of the axle is covered in greasy black brake dust. I've never had an axle out of this truck before, but we rebuilt the diff in my brother-in-law's '05 Chevy 2500 (AAM axle) a couple months ago, so it's not exactly foreign ground for me... but that said, is there anything I need to look out for? I know I need to get a gasket for the axle plate, but what other parts (besides obviously the new seal) do I need to get?
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Well guys. Was really really really happy when I replaced my blower motor resistor. A/C is back .... but now seems like speed 1 moved over to speed 2 position. Speed 2 went to 3 position and 3 on 4 position. On speed 1 it slowly stops blowing. And speed 4 seems alot like speed 3. Doesn't blow as fast. The resistor I used was Mopar resistor. Any thoughts??
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My center light has sprung a leak, and when it rains hard (i.e., every afternoon during the Florida summer monsoon season) I get some drips coming out of my overhead console. Clearly, this cannot stand, so I need some new ones. Anybody switched to LEDs or the 4th-gen style, or anything different?
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Having electrical issues with my 2001 Dodge Ram 2500..going down the road the other night the lights behind my speedo went out. My cluster gauges I guess? I also noticed no marker lights and no running lights in the back..I heard a click and everything went dark any ideas? I checked most of my fuses and no luck
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I replaced my power steering box 6 months ago with a rebuilt box from Napa, . Last week I took my truck to an alignment shop because I had excess play in the steering. They diagnosed the problem as tie rod ends and excess wear in the drag link. I have ordered all the defective parts. They also noted that the gearbox pressure is off left to right .Is this something that can be adjusted by the pitman shaft adjustment screw on top of the box, or should I just return the box to Napa while it is still under warranty? The truck drives good and I don't notice much difference in the steering right to left or left to right. Ball joints were o.k Any suggestion would be apprec…
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Do I need to get the center hub nut off and the hub out to take the rotors out ? its a 2WD solid axle setup Rotors dont have studs or hub just like a small sedan rotors do I punch the studs out ? or its comes off separate ?
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I plan to paint my rocker panels black on white. What do you guys do with the area that you can see through the crack in the bottom of the door? Some paint worn off from foot drag over while entering or exiting the truck. So needs something. Mask off and paint into the door opening an inch or so? What is done with factory two tone paint jobs? Picture maybe with door open would be awesome. Plan on using black hammered finish Hammerite. Tough as nails. Has glass particles in it.
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A little over a year ago I posted a thread seeking help on my A/C. You can view it here: http://forum.mopar1973man.com/index.php?/topic/8324-need-ac-help/ It has since been archived, but I'll give you the background to it here to save you some reading. The problem:(taken from the original post): "Most of the time (95%), my A/C just blows hot air regardless of where the temperature control knob is. If I have been driving for a while, especially on the highway, the A/C might start blowing nice cold air. I never get too excited because soon after that, I will hear a single pop noise under the hood and the air gets hot again. This pop noise (thud or thump might be mo…
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Hi all. It's time for me to do this and I was looking for any help or Suggestions you might have. This is my first time so any pics would help as well. Thanks!
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Hey guys thank's for having me been looking around on this website for a while. That being said I am in serious need of help before I lose my mind. I have a 2001 QCLB with a 6 speed transmission. I needed to replace my dash and bezel so I bought a LMC truck dash and bezel. Il while doing it I figured I would do the heater core and accumulator. I have my dash completely loose and rolled forward but j can't for the life of me move the P/S of the dash far enough out to remove the HVAC box. Am I suppose to remove the center shifter plastic assembly? Im starting to lose hope in this project and any help would be great thanks guys
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Ok so about 2 months ago I resealed my hydroboost using the moparman recommended guide and solve a leak problem but before I could do that my wife drove the truck around 70 miles and 65mph or higher which lead to the death ofy original power steering pump. Having replaced the PS pump the HB unit makes lots of noise when turning the wheels and pulses the brake pedal fairly hard when the breaks are applied. I've flushed the old fluid out. Jacked the front wheels up and turned them lock to lock, and tried my best to avoid any foam. I thought the problem had been solved but a 5 minute drive proved otherwise. Any thoughts on this? Or tricks I haven't tried?
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Ok fellas... so every road trip I have made lately I get low fuel pressure at high elevation.... here at home in LA I get 15 - 16psi ... i went up to the Rockies in Colorado... the whole time I was running 10- 12 psi...drove east towards iowa.... pressure started getting better...continued south gets better. When I get back to so. California I'm back up to 15psi... please rule out fuel filters because I had new FASS filters on it... what you all think??
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Wipers quit on my 2001. Could hear relay clicking when on intermittent, so figured motor. Got a reman motor from autozone. When I hook up 4 wire connector and turn on switch, it blows fuse. Check ground and I am getting 12v on the ground when switch is on. Check plug and I get 12v on the hi and lo when switched to hi and low. I have 12V constant on one of the park wires (blue wire). Figured motor was bad, swapped it and replacement does same thing. I replaced multifunction switch, same problem. thoughts??
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so first off i want to say that i am new to the forums. iv'e searched the web for someone who has had the same issue but so far i cant find it! so i went to my camp and all was well. the next day i unloaded all the dirt bikes and quads off of my flat bed and trailer and all was well. then about 30 min later i jumped back in the truck to run to the corner store and the radio didn't work.. weird.. it never came back on either. so when i got home the first thing i did was break out the multi meter. the battery power wire in the radio harness (yellow) was only coming up with .25 volts. and the ignition power wire (red) was only showing .20 volts. i checked the fuse on…
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My "brake" light on the instrument cluster comes on from time to time. I never gave it much thought, because it was the only light illuminated. I figured it was the switch at the parking brake. Now...after reading the FSM, it appears this light can also be an indicator of a malfunction in the braking system. I did not know that. After reading, if there is a malfunction it is normally accompanied by a "ABS" indicator . Like I said, I don't have that, but it appears that is because that light doesn't work. I went out and turned the key to on and all of the indicator lights come on except the ABS light. The FSM says that this is a LED that is soldered to the boa…
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I just ran into this problem but I'm pretty sure I know what happen in my case. What had happened was I made a trip to town and put my truck back in the shop and closed the door. Wasn't but a short time later I get a call to do firewood hauling. I pulled the truck out and set the A/C for MAX A/C and proceeded on hitching up the trailer. I start noticing the compressor pulling really hard on the engine and cycling rapidly. Thought that was odd I got back in the truck the vents were blow warm air. Compressor still cycling. Then I head the compressor struggle and then started venting freon. I knew then what was going on I shut down the A/C and left it off till I was rolling.…
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I have an am/fm cassette factory sound deck. Non premium. I've got speakers right left and front rear intermittently cutting out. Bad deck or wiring issues likely?
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Anyone know what this code is ? Showed up as a P ECU ... Was trying to pinpoint the cruise control issue in my '02 ... Thanks
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Cant find the thread I thought existed .... if someone has the link. Drivers side. Basically looking to see what needs to be done. Remove all bolts at front support brace near radiator Remove the battery, tray and bolts x 4 Remove the ABS bolts x 3 Remove the rear bolts for fender what else ?
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