2nd Generation Dodge Non-Powertrain

I think I have the same problem that wagntagn has a couple post below. I think my I.O.D. fuse is blown but I can't figure out how to get the plastic protector off the fuse to replace it. - - - Updated - - - Nevermind. I finally got that booger off. Problem fixed.

I know I have a thread related to this and cant find it I have pictures of the rust free Texas quad cab that I will be posting when I find the cord for my camera. I got the cab with fenders detached all doors and glass for 1200 I need some help in an estimate on the weight of the cab with doors. I have two trailers I can use to pick it up I'd like to use the small one that way I can push it around but I'm limited to 1500 pounds capacity do you guys think with all doors glass and most of the interior it will weigh under 1500? I wouldn't think so but I haven't even had a door off yet so I'm guessing at best but being there is no b pillar I would anticipate a higher we…

Hi All - I took my 1995 2WD 2500 (243K miles) to get an alignment after installing new shocks and tires. The shop told me that they couldn't do an alignment because my lower ball joints weren't fully seated....they stick up above the control arm about 1/4" with the splines and snap ring exposed. Is this normal??? I found some pics online that appeared to look the same but was a little hard to tell. I have attached a picture. Please advise. Thanks Some people have said that I need new lower control arms......not sure how to know if this is true. I can't tell if the OEM ball joints were tack welded like some were....the ball joints in the pic above appear to be replace…

Anyone have a clicking noise sometimes when stopping or turning truck is a 2wd thinking it could be rear end but not sure

Just wanted to thank you to Mike for all his articles that helped me replace the tappet cover gasket and install new RV 275 injectors, and to all the great write ups from the members I could not have done this with the help. Also the instructions found on Blue Chip diesel where very much needed. Will have photos and short write up in near future, to tired right now. Thanks to all.

I tore into the rear driver side of my truck, needed to replace the wheel seal...once I got everything off I was looking around at my drum brake assembly thinking I needed to take everything off, I screwed the adjuster all the way in and found out that I dont have to take it all off...once I got everything back together I drove around for 10 min at 50 mph and then checked to make sure everything was ok, my driver side drum (side I tore into) was alot hotter than the passenger side...If I jack my wheel off the ground I can get about the same amount of spin as the other side but only my drivers side is getting warm...I know the adjuster is probably not back in the same spot…

Track Bar... This will be my second failure in a total of 324k miles. My last track bar lasted over 100k miles. I will admit I screwed up this time. Being I'm doing all the back and forth trips I opted to just at the local AutoZone and pick up a trackbar. $90 buck with a lifetime guarantee. Didn't realize it a sealed unit that has no grease zerk. I found this out after I've already pulled mine out and need my truck. My last Track Bar was a NAPA unit and it did very well to go 100k miles. Just times are tight for me and had to take what was available. I do plan on getting a Luke's Links and rebuilding my old bar since its got the small non-Moog head…

Did a search, and was able to see a wiring diagram for an '02 (mine's an '02)...Checked the 20a fuse, and it's good.What would the probable problem be? Where to look?Thank you, Greg

I love old mopars. Mopar, (God bless'em) still makes legit 2nd gen (muscle car era) Elephant motors! They don't build the engines themselves, they contract it all out to various manufacturers and large shops typically around the Detroit area. Well, during my research I found out that there has been quite a few changes in who makes these new crate motors. Originally, it was a small high end machine shop that would take the raw castings and turn them into beautiful engines. Then, Mopar decided to go with the lowest bidder. Cummins. The engines that came from Cummins were 100% garbage. Crap in the engines. Awful surface finish on parts. Poor hone job. Castin…

Today I hooked my computer up to my truck and when I viewed the live data values (RPM, VSS, ECT, IAT, etc) with my truck idleing the numbers were jumping all over the place, for example the VSS would read 0 then 68 then 136 and all over the place with my truck just sitting there idling. So something is wrong somewhere in the truck because I tried connecting to other vehicles we have and everything works like it should with the OBD II cable and software. I'm not even sure where to start in trying to find the problem but right now I'm kind of thinking it may be a ground wire somewhere but I have no clue what wires to start checking

it is about RWD truck not 4WD truck as it is 1 11/16 that i has it and used it a lot in chrysler dealership in past time but i am still keep it for myself...I am not sure which is correct size socket for front hub/wheel bearing nut?? i has mostly size sockets but i has 41mm that is little more loose to fit in the front hub bearing nut... 41mm is 1.61 inches but i am anal as want correct socket as it is high torque so i dont want put stress on wrong size socket or round on nut...

ok i am cleaning my fuel injectors and in one of them there are 2 shims. i do not know if some one has put them in by mistake. the fist one i cleaned has one shim the 2nd one has 2 can some one tell if that is wright thanks

My truck has had some electrical issues with door locks and windows since I got it but the latest is weird. I can unlock my doors either with the key fob or the switch and they unlock when I turn the key off..normal; however, they won't lock in any of the mentioned ways (fob, switch, or when key is turned on). Once in a while they'll work so I assume there's a loose connection somewhere. So, before I start tearing apart areas that have nothing to do with it, could someone with experience in this area steer me in the right direction. Thank

I've been using my bed w/ no liner for the last 3 yrs. Cardboard & exercise mats. It's ok untin I get a 1/2 ton of grain on a pallet & they use the tow motor to push it the rest of the way in. I did think I struck gold the other day, one was for sale by the owner in front of his grain store. After taking some measurements seemed like it would fit. I would have tossed it in but my grain was already loaded. To complicate things, I have a fiberglass topper. After 3 trips, no one was around to help me w my shell. After talking w/ Michael on the phone the other day, he expained how the beds were changed w each generation. Thank you for that but i wish I new that before…

Anyone have the part number for the rear axle nut and wedge on a Dana 70. Or better yet a part number for the old style double nut system?

I am about to do the EGT Probe install on the truck. My question is I need to know what is a good gasket for the turbo and down pipe? I am going to remove the turbo to do the drilling and tapping on the manifold. I want a good gasket and is there anything I need to look out for or tips while I do this install. I got the probe from vulcanperformance and it came with a green box ( I am assuming a amplifier?). Thanks in advance

Hey guys, I started my truck up yesterday and suddenly had no power brakes or steering. It was running fine a couple days ago and showed no symptoms or strange noises. I haven't had a chance to really look under the hood much yet, but when I glanced around, I didn't see any noticeable leaks and there was no big puddle under the truck. Goulds vacuum pump kit was installed over the summer by my shop, so that should be go to go. My question is what exactly should I be looking for when I dig into this? If there are no leaks and the fluid is full, I am assuming there is a plug somewhere or the PS pump is shot... is there a surefire way to tell if the pump is any good? I h…

So today I had some time to spare so I removed the gooseneck hitch from the bed of the truck. Boy am I glad I did. We have been pulling our 36' 10k pound fifth wheel (with an adapter) with this hitch. I noticed that one of the cross members was badly rusted, that's what prompted me to remove it to inspect it. All 4 bolts snapped off when I tried to loosen them. The hitch is junk. It would have been very dangerous if not catastrophic to pull the camper again. See pics below.

is there a kit to lift the rear 2".I did the 2" level kit ,the front seams higher than the rear now

I figure I'd let you guys and gals know I've added more information to the tire pressure article. Also more photos of tire profile vs. pressure. More to come when I got a chance. http://articles.mopar1973man.com/general-cummins/35-exterior/354-tire-inflation-formula