So, I was towing my boat back and no issues until I went to put it in reverse.   It was acting like it was stuck.  After I backed in the boat, I put the brake on, unhooked the boat.  Jumped back in and then tried putting it in first, with the brake on...

So, soon after getting home that I tried to put it in reverse and no go.  the pedal went right to the floor, and it would not go into gear unless the engine was off.

Is this a broken clutch fork, stuck throwout bearing.and do I need a new clutch master/salve  cylinder?  I rebuilt the tranny last year, replaced the clutch 2 years ago, and now have 350,000 miles, with about 70k on the clutch.

Thanks for any help 

 

GSX455

I would guess the issue is the master and slave.

 

Jump under there and look for any drips on the clutch line.

Check under the dash for fluid leaks at the push rod of the clutch pedal.

Even if you have no leaks that doesn't mean that master slave or both are junk. Have someone to push on pedal and see if slave moves the fork, or use something to keep pedal down. 

If you get new clutch hydros, I recomend autozone. The ones I got from them have a heavy cast aluminum master and slave cylinder. It even has a bleeder screw! They are about $150.

23 minutes ago, leathermaneod said:

If you get new clutch hydros, I recomend autozone. The ones I got from them have a heavy cast aluminum master and slave cylinder. It even has a bleeder screw! They are about $150.

 

Even buying the part separated from Autozone you can do it for $95... that's a $55 dollar saving do it your self and bleeding the system out before you install it.

 

http://www.autozone.com/drivetrain/clutch-master-cylinder/duralast-clutch-master-cylinder/dodge/ram-2500-3-4-ton-4wd/2002/6-cylinders-6-5-9l-turbo-diesel/426195_0_0/?checkfit=true

 

http://www.autozone.com/drivetrain/clutch-slave-cylinder/duralast-clutch-slave-cylinder/dodge/ram-2500-3-4-ton-4wd/2002/6-cylinders-6-5-9l-turbo-diesel/426213_0_0/

Edited June 9, 20168 yr by Mopar1973Man

When my clutch went out on my gasser, I'd start it in 1st gear and shift without the clutch. Should be able to get a reasonable distance without a clutch.

8 hours ago, joecool911 said:

When my clutch went out on my gasser, I'd start it in 1st gear and shift without the clutch. Should be able to get a reasonable distance without a clutch.

 

 

Not exactly something I suggest doing but in a pinch it will get you home if you know what your doing. I've practise with my truck off and on and very capable of rowing up and down without a clutch at all. Just need the clutch to launch beyond that I can float all the gears up or down. Again this is not something I suggest...

Not something I'd suggest either for no good reason. But to get home, it'll work. Better than a tow.

So, I looked at the interior clutch rod to the master and it is wet with brake (?) fluid.  I'll disconnect the slave from the tranny to make sure the fork is still engaged.

 

I had my other car in running condition, so I'll install the master/slave this weekend.  Thanks for all the help

If you buy the separated master and slave cylinders from a parts store then you'll have to assemble them and bench bleed the system before installing because the hydraulic line from master to the slave runs up and over the hydro assist system which prevents air from purging.  Just so you know.....

The one piece system do not guarantee an air free install either. Typically the cost more and you end up re-bench bleed them too because of handling issues. I would rather get the separate pieces and assemble myself and bleed myself knowing the job was done right.

 

 

I don't disagree with bench bleeding before install, but to me it's worth a little extra $ to get the new line and not have to fiddle with removing and attaching new master and slave cylinders to the line. If you get the whole setup, all you gota do is hang it vertically, do a few good squeezes on the slave with the reservoir cap off to make sure there's no air, and your good to go. Then if you got the setup from autozone, and you do have issues after the install, you've got a bleeder screw to work with. No more taking it off the truck to bench bleed at that point. Just my opinion of course 

That was not me implying one was better than the other but merely stating a fact for someone who may or may have not known that you cant simply install your local parts store master/slave and expect to bleed it on the truck.....

The bleed screw editions of hydros tend to be really fun and easy to screw up. Being the reservoir is only a few ounces of fluid and you trying to push air downhill hill while the air attempting to rise up hill. Just easier to remove remove it and push the air up hill. The master / reservoir doesn't have the volume like the brake system for bleeding. Like Chevy truck of got this and it still a fight to clear the system of air because again pushing air downhill while it attempting to rise.

Wonder if Motive makes a cap to fit the master cylinder for pressurized bleeding? Sure do like my brake bleeder for bleeding brakes! One person operation. All at the wheels.

Of the 5 or so clutches I've put in, I've yet to bleed a single master / slave that was pre-assembled. Zero issues to date fwiw

Thanks for all of the suggestions,  the bleeding and re-install  went well  enough.  The clutch was spongy at first, but then tightened up better after a day of driving.   I bought the Auto Zone slave cylinder, and it has a bleeder screw.  Is it worth it for the last bit of spongy feeling to try the bleeder screw, or leave it alone, since it is driveable?  

Thanks!  

I would bleed it. It is easy to do with the screw. It will spray hydraulic fuel quite well, have a rag handy.

Make sure you fill the reservior every cycle. Also trying to push air downward is really tough. So expect to fight it for a while and bleed, bleed and bleed...

Pushing air down when bleeding brakes too