I am interested in a leveling kit to help my 2500 to clear larger tires and look level. I have a couple questions. I have found 2" steel leveling kits and nylon kits. Is steel the better option? The nylon claims it is better because it doesn't rust. Any long term effects from putting a leveling kit on? Any brands or specific products you would steer me towards or away from? Thanks!

5 minutes ago, xmtysonxm said:

I am interested in a leveling kit to help my 2500 to clear larger tires and look level. I have a couple questions. I have found 2" steel leveling kits and nylon kits. Is steel the better option? The nylon claims it is better because it doesn't rust. Any long term effects from putting a leveling kit on? Any brands or specific products you would steer me towards or away from? Thanks!

This can be a very opinionated topic, so I'll throw mine out there!

 

IF you're going to use a spacer, I think steel is better. Just a personal preference. I'm sure the nylon would be fine, but I would be willing to bet the steel is stronger. As for rust, the whole frame is made out of steel, so I find that argument invalid.

 

Personally, I would try to get a whole new set of springs. It would improve the ride along with achieving the leveled look. That's just my opinion though because I have 2" spacers on mine.

 

Effects: Your front axle will no longer be centered. The leveling kit will pull the axle toward the driver's side of the vehicle by around a half inch to an inch or so. I would recommend getting an adjustable track bar, but it is not necessary.

Your steering wheel will be turned to the left when going straight because of the axle movement.

If you do not have the HD steering (meaning you have the Y steering) it will make your tires toe inward, so an alignment is needed.

 

As for products, I don't think it matters. Get the cheap one!

Any time you make changes to the front axle suspension I highly suggest for the adjustable track bar. Always best to have everything lined up that dog legged down the road. This is another reason I always suggest if your going to modify the front axle suspension you better off doing it properly and having it realigned. Way too many people think you can just toss spacers in and it all good. This where people with death wobble get there experience from poor front suspension modifications, poor alignment, wore out parts and out of balance over sized tires.

Yup yup! Brand of level kits are really a take your pick sort of thing. Type of material is a take your pick sort of thing.

 

The only absolute with a leveling kit IMO is what's already been stated. An adjustable track bar. For you're going to do it, do it right and avoid having bigger issues later on down the road.

In searching for a track bar I came across Luke's Link. It looks like it is suppose to help get rid of all wandering and be a lifetime fix not just temporary. If I replace my track bar with an adjustable one should I get this Luke's link with it or will the adjustable track bar take care of everything? And any recommendations on  a track bar brand? Is one easier to install than the other or last longer? Thanks

I personally don't like the luke link setup.  they pretty much take all the flex out of the steering system that typically is there due to the joints and rubber.  

 

 

 

31 minutes ago, xmtysonxm said:

In searching for a track bar I came across Luke's Link. It looks like it is suppose to help get rid of all wandering and be a lifetime fix not just temporary. If I replace my track bar with an adjustable one should I get this Luke's link with it or will the adjustable track bar take care of everything? And any recommendations on  a track bar brand? Is one easier to install than the other or last longer? Thanks

It will come with a new joint, so no need for the Luke's Link.

I like Dodge Off Road's bar, but it is pricey

 

20 minutes ago, Me78569 said:

I personally don't like the luke link setup.  they pretty much take all the flex out of the steering system that typically is there due to the joints and rubber.  

 

Have you used or seen the inside of one? They are not solid and do flex. They rest in the bottom of the original cup and the top is held in by a polyurethane bushing (I think its poly). Either way, they aren't stiff.

DOR hands down. It's not cheap but is built like a tank with high quality parts. I've been running one for almost a year and love it. The main thing is to make sure it's actually in stock before ordering. DOR's lead time on out of stock parts can sometimes be counted in months. 

The reason you need a new track bar after leveling is to re-center the axle

The reason you'd use Luke's Links is because your TRE are shot

 

I have DORs track bar and it's an awesome bar. If you can deal with the price and possible wait times then I say get it.

 

As far as install goes, some are 'bolt on' kits, but won't offer the same level of strength as the drilled type. Install really isn't too difficult but two people make it easier for sure. Drilling through the cross member is really the most difficult part.

1 hour ago, TFaoro said:

Have you used or seen the inside of one? They are not solid and do flex. They rest in the bottom of the original cup and the top is held in by a polyurethane bushing (I think its poly). Either way, they aren't stiff.

 

 

I have only seen what was in the pictures so  I am not an expert in it.  It looked like the joint was pressed into the collar to prevent movement so I was put off by that.  

 

I would like to see one in person and take a closer look.

http://mrtruck.net/draglink.htm

 

So... the ball rests in the bottom like stock, the top is cut off, then the white polyurethane is inserted to hold the top of the ball, then the orange piece to act like a spring, then the shims and stuff that go into the big cap, then it's snugged down. It's a good setup IMO.

Does the main ball still rest against the OEM plastic bushing in the head of the joint?  or is there a replacement piece for that.

14 minutes ago, Me78569 said:

Does the main ball still rest against the OEM plastic bushing in the head of the joint?  or is there a replacement piece for that.

Rests in the OEM plastic on the "stud" end. The back is where the new white part goes.

What happens when the stud end plastic gets rounded out?  I am confused as to how tight the stud end is held.    

You just keep tightening the giant nut on the back side. Every time I've tightened mine, it's like a new joint.

So in theory you should get 5x the use out of the joint?  then you must get new oem style joints?

Edited June 23, 20168 yr by Me78569

Just put a big a$$ trailer behind your truck and no leveling will be needed. The older I get the less I like jacked up rigs. Lots of downside. 

Absolutely...

I have a 2" leveling kit too.  I thing they look nice because it removes the "stink bug" stance some trucks have.  But it does pose as a problem if you're towing heavy because the normal rear suspension drop under a load will appear as if its sagging under the weight even though you know its not.

 

Other than that, as mentioned, you should install an adjustable track bar to recenter the axle, readjust the toe since the tires will be in too far, and you'll need to readjust the caster because as the front axle goes down the caster becomes more negative.

 

As for steel verses nylon, I think I'd prefer the metal version just to lessen the chance of the nylon loosening up over time.

Edited June 24, 20168 yr by KATOOM

With a two inch level kit you need to adjust the axle back to center.  And like others say, with a load you will have the rear sag so you'll need to go with air bags like I had to, too get the rear to match up.

 

It also takes time to readjust the steering wheel back to the 12 o'clock position. Took me about 4 times before it was true again.

14 hours ago, joecool911 said:

Just put a big a$$ trailer behind your truck and no leveling will be needed. The older I get the less I like jacked up rigs. Lots of downside. 

 

11 hours ago, Mopar1973Man said:

Absolutely...

 

Not sure about the long bed 24V, but the short bed is horribly low in the front compared to the rear. Even with 2" up in the front, the rear still sits higher on my truck. I do plan on putting bags in the rear of mine so when I do get those really heavy loads it'll sit level like it should.