A new issue has come up.  

 

I have a very noticeable shake between 25 and 35 mph.  it is VERY similar to a tire being out of balance, but I have never had a tire do that at such low speeds. 

 

Doesn't matter if you are increasing or decreasing speed, doesn't matter if you are on the brakes or on the throttle moderately.  WOT you don't feel it but that might be because the truck is rough anyways.  

 

Does matter what gear or rev, just that mph is between 25 and 35 mph,         it clears up pretty much as soon as you hit 36 mph.  

 

 

Tires?  

Place in the Springs here wants $300 to rebuild the back shaft and balance with new u joints and bearing.  Doesn't sound that bad?  

 

3 u joints at $40 a piece = 120

center bearing ~$100

1 trip to ER for a busted thump = $???

Bad attitude caused by working on it = $????

 

$220 in my cost for parts if I was to do it myself, or I could pay someone $80 to do it for me..

 

Front shaft they said they would have to look at, but Looking at it myself the joints were still good so I dunno if I will do that one yet.

As long as they're installing  Quality Parts in I don't see anything wrong with it, I would choose Spicer non greasable.

You can install the bearing yourself using heat.... Throw it in the oven at 150 or 175 for an hour and it drops right on. Did it to my brother's 50k ago and it's still fine. 

 

I would opt for greasable but that's just my preference. I'm sure either way would be fine. 

They use non greasible spicer, Which is what I prefer also. 

 

 

Good thought on the bearing, bad thing is now I am thinking about doing it myself again because I am not convinced the u joints are bad. they were replaced not to long ago and still seem tight, its just the bearing that is wiggling. 

 

I dunno.

Edited November 30, 20168 yr by Me78569

Worth pointing out.....  A properly balanced tire thats round and not dried out will drive smooth and be free from vibration.  No matter if the shocks are weak or all other components under there are old and worn out either.  Suspension is only there to absorb the road bumps and shocks are only there for slowing (damping) the inertia behind the movement of the tire.

 

So if its truly a vibration as you described "VERY similar to a tire being out of balance" then thats telling me this is a slow wobbly vibration like a clothes washing machine on spin cycle.  If this is the case then you'll want to explore a bad tire, out of balance tire, tread separation, etc.  Especially since you've checked all other components under there and say they're in good shape.

 

And also, a driveshaft thats out of balance or bad u-joints will typically cause a high speed humming vibration that will feel more like a massaging tool under your butt and feet.   And.....they will only get worse the faster your drive as they spin even faster.

 

Tires on the other hand can act odd and run smooth or wobbly depending on speeds and temperature outside.  Especially a tire separating internally.

 

As for driveshafts and u-joints..... I suggest having yours rebuilt long before buying new ones.  New ones will be stupid expensive and may not fit exactly the same.  Having yours rebuilt and balanced with quality non-greaseable Spicers will be affordable and work perfect.

I bought the oe non greasable Spicer's in a mopar box. New old stock on ebay. $50 buck apiece. Now to find the center bearing. I am a fan of not having to grease anything. The old ones have lasted darn near 400k so me thinks as long as they are actually the same I cant go wrong. I have a vibration around 70 mph but am thinking it is probably tire related. It was not there when they were new. I am getting them rotated and balance Saturday see what happens.

For ujoints or ball joints I use Denny's driveshaft.  They always have the lowest price spicer stuff.

16 hours ago, Me78569 said:

For ujoints or ball joints I use Denny's driveshaft.  They always have the lowest price spicer stuff.

I had been on their site before looking at ball joints. Never could convince myself the ones I was seeing were what I wanted. Never looked at ujoints.  When you brought them up I went over there again for the hell of it and went straight to the ujoint I had been looking for half the price.They appear to be the same. Its only money I guess.

I have heard rumor of 2 levels of spicer stuff, but I have yet to see proof.   the stuff I have gotten from him has always been marked spicer just the same as what I get from anywhere else.  

On 11/30/2016 at 10:50 AM, TFaoro said:

You can install the bearing yourself using heat.... Throw it in the oven at 150 or 175 for an hour and it drops right on. Did it to my brother's 50k ago and it's still fine. 

 

I would opt for greasable but that's just my preference. I'm sure either way would be fine. 

Will the rubber withstand the heat or do you have to take it apart?

On another truck, I had the double cardan joint explode on me while on the freeway.  Driving along at 65 mph, before I even knew what the heck was happening, the driveshaft was whirling around still attached to the front pinion banging like a sledgehammer against everything in its path.

 

In seconds it took out the exhaust, bent the frame, dented the bottom of the cab floor, and hit the transmission but thankfully didnt hurt it.  Then after that millisecond fiasco of violence, the pinion yoke snapped and the driveshaft fell to the ground.

 

So yeah.....I'm a little gun shy and wont work on a double cardan joint.  I prefer driveline shops handle that one and give me a warranty to boot.

3 hours ago, dripley said:

Will the rubber withstand the heat or do you have to take it apart?

Nope, it can stay together. It doesn't hurt the rubber at the temperatures I posted. If you put it in there at 300 it would probably fall apart. 

16 hours ago, KATOOM said:

On another truck, I had the double cardan joint explode on me while on the freeway.  Driving along at 65 mph, before I even knew what the heck was happening, the driveshaft was whirling around still attached to the front pinion banging like a sledgehammer against everything in its path.

 

In seconds it took out the exhaust, bent the frame, dented the bottom of the cab floor, and hit the transmission but thankfully didnt hurt it.  Then after that millisecond fiasco of violence, the pinion yoke snapped and the driveshaft fell to the ground.

 

So yeah.....I'm a little gun shy and wont work on a double cardan joint.  I prefer driveline shops handle that one and give me a warranty to boot.

When a Jeeps front driveshaft locks up on the highway. 

I had a very similar looking 241dld in my old 99' 2500. The centering ball was toast and gave no warning/vibration until I was backing a trailer uphill in the snow 

Ugh,

 

 

 

Pressing out the lower joint and didn't see that I had extended the clamp enough to press on the upper joint.  

 

To the pull and pay I go in the morning.

Did you resolve this was the cause of the vibration or did you just break something for nothing.....

You know the whole 2 steps back 1 step forward?  Well I seem to operate by that standard haha, I busted it pressing out the ball joints.

 

 

Went to Pull and Pay this morning.  Found a 1998 2500 that someone had kindly pulled the caliper off, axle nut off, and all 4 unit bearing bolts off of.  Took me all of 10 minutes to pull the knuckle, paind the kind people $25 to take it home.

 

New ball joints are pressed in and I am getting ready to go out and put them on.  

 

 

I am still under the theory that my shake issue is tires though.  

 

I have a good friend that owns a driveshaft shop, Bill englewood driveshafts. He is a stand up guy and very honest. Does custom work and had good prices.

 

I am going to mail out my bmw driveshaft to have it rebuilt and ujoint staked so i have a spare. I trust him %100 no questions asked.

 

http://www.billsenglewooddriveshaft.com/

I had my Aluminum one shortened and balanced by Bills.  He is great.  

8 hours ago, Me78569 said:

You know the whole 2 steps back 1 step forward?  Well I seem to operate by that standard haha, I busted it pressing out the ball joints.

 

 

Went to Pull and Pay this morning.  Found a 1998 2500 that someone had kindly pulled the caliper off, axle nut off, and all 4 unit bearing bolts off of.  Took me all of 10 minutes to pull the knuckle, paind the kind people $25 to take it home.

 

New ball joints are pressed in and I am getting ready to go out and put them on.  

 

 

I am still under the theory that my shake issue is tires though.  

 

Got my tires rotated and balanced and my vibration is gone. Still want to do the driveshaft just because it has so many miles on it.