Well every project I take on appears to give me headaches...I'm beyond stressed  .  I cannot get any of my injectors to budge (I've tried 1,2,3,4).  I can rotate them in their slots but they will not lift up.  All my strength and they will not move up a millimeter.  I also cannot get my number five fuel line to disconnect from the crossover tube.  I'll add pictures later but some of the nuts on the fuel lines are corroded which I suspect the issue to be with that (weird because it was California truck for 17 years).  The corrosion spread to the threads on some of the fuel tubes but I'm replacing them anyway.  

 

My only other option would be to just button everything back up temporarily.  But I really don't feel comfortable reusing these feed tubes...worried it's just going to leak like hell.  They aren't damaged/scuffed or anything but the corrosion worries me.   I may just have to tow it to my mechanic and have him try to do it because I'm getting too stressed out and I'm low on ideas.  Things shouldn't be this hard but that's the way it is. I'm trying not to go crazy...pray for me 

Edited February 18, 20178 yr by sooxies

Pull the tubes and retainers then crank the engine over. You might end up with 6 holes in your hood but I guarantee they'll come out really fast. 

6 minutes ago, Buzzinhalfdozen said:

Pull the tubes and retainers then crank the engine over. You might end up with 6 holes in your hood but I guarantee they'll come out really fast. 

Whatever it takes!  I read about something similar on a 12 valve...made me giggle

Edited February 19, 20178 yr by sooxies

You might try what @JAG1 suggested with a piece of PVC pipe, a washer and use one of the short bolt from the intake horn. Crank it down and see if it pops loose. That or pry harder like @Mopar1973Man is saying. Just kind of perplexing to me they wont budge, just no that much holding them in place. The o ring lives with oil on side and fuel on the other.

Nothing like popping injectors and getting a redneck compression test at same time. Make sure all neighbors are indoors.

 

Possible those O rings turn into hard rubber over time. I would soak a bit of oil down around ea. one for an hour or so.

11 minutes ago, JAG1 said:

Possible those O rings turn into hard rubber over time. I would soak a bit of oil down around ea. one for an hour or so.

 

 

Ummm... The injectors are swimming in engine oil... Then the other side of the o-ring has diesel fuel.

 

My crazy idea of getting them out...

Edited February 19, 20178 yr by Mopar1973Man

hmm looks like how I got mine out...

2 hours ago, JAG1 said:

Nothing like popping injectors and getting a redneck compression test at same time. Make sure all neighbors are indoors.

 

Possible those O rings turn into hard rubber over time. I would soak a bit of oil down around ea. one for an hour or so.

Like Mike says they swim in oil every day of their lives with diesel on the other side of the o ring.

Not sure I used a claw the first time i did mine but as easy as the popped out I could have. Was not sure what to expect the first time.

 

@sooxies How far would those injectors rotate any way? 

48 minutes ago, dripley said:

Like Mike says they swim in oil every day of their lives with diesel on the other side of the o ring.

Not sure I used a claw the first time i did mine but as easy as the popped out I could have. Was not sure what to expect the first time.

 

@sooxies How far would those injectors rotate any way? 

360 degrees....in slow increments.  Kind of like a chopping motion..not a fluid movement.  I like the idea of using a hammer for leverage....that would be worth a shot.  But the number 5 fuel line is still another issue.  I soaked it in PB blaster overnight and it still wouldn't move.  

Edited February 19, 20178 yr by sooxies

Might need a high quality crows foot, pipe wrench style to get that #5 loose. Use plenty of PB blaster on it. Might have to shock the fitting to get it moving so look for that crows foot for that purpose and might try rattling a impact against it a little bit.

A slide hammer would get em out for sure. At least it would not put a sideways force on them. And just go easy with it.

Edited February 24, 20178 yr by Thunder2001

1 thru 4 maybe but 5 and 6 would be a challenge. Not sure Snap On sells a tool for that.

Would something like this work?  Put nut on all thread bolt,  place bolt with nut through large fender washer, place short peace of pipe over injector then put bolt with nut and washer into the injector.   Now tighten the nut against the fender washer while counter holding the bolt head.  This should 'suck' the injector out.  You may have to take the valve rocker arms off but at this stage of the game what else can you do. 

Thats petty much what the fancy tool does and what @JAG1 suggested with pvc pipe. Should work just fine. 

'Mopie' (Michael Nelson) gets the credit cause he first told me about the pipe trick. And IBM adapted it to work on the 24 valve style.

15 hours ago, IBMobile said:

Would something like this work?  Put nut on all thread bolt,  place bolt with nut through large fender washer, place short peace of pipe over injector then put bolt with nut and washer into the injector.   Now tighten the nut against the fender washer while counter holding the bolt head.  This should 'suck' the injector out.  You may have to take the valve rocker arms off but at this stage of the game what else can you do. 

I bought the tool from Tork-Tek....I'll report back when it warms up again in the garage.  Give it another go.

won't the use of a slide hammer to remove the injector, damage the injector?

While it would not be my first tool of choice. I cant see what harm it would do. They just pull straight out and are not attached to anything.

Let us know why they were tough to pull.

On 2/26/2017 at 9:49 PM, JAG1 said:

Let us know why they were tough to pull.

Got the job done; the tool took them out with no issues.  P.O. had 275's in it which is what I just put in...no worries.  But now I have a leak from what I think is the return line on the back of the head?  It's not the number six line I know that.  It's dripping down to the bottom of the bell housing.  My rear main is shot but it is for sure fuel.  I never touched the return line nor has it ever leaked so I'm not sure why it's leaking now.  I do know it's common.   

 

Between doing a valve adjustment and these new injectors it idles a lot quieter and smoother.  I do notice however, it chatters a little different.  Kind of hard to explain without hearing it in person...it's very very minute but I have sensitive ears.  Not sure if that leak in the back would cause it.  I would only say that because of when you bleed the engine and it idles like trash until the lines are tightened down...and air is out of the system.  Truck has the power...no loss whatsoever.    

 

Fixed one issue but created another.  I like solving problems so I'm not that frustrated.  Luckily I walk to work. 

 

Cheers fellas for all of the help.  Really means a lot.  

24 minutes ago, sooxies said:

But now I have a leak from what I think is the return line on the back of the head?

There is a o-ring kit for the tee on the return line and also there is 2 banjo bolt washers on the banjo at the back of the head. 

 

25 minutes ago, sooxies said:

 I would only say that because of when you bleed the engine and it idles like trash until the lines are tightened down..

I never crack any line for priming. Like my last swap of injectors I just install tighten all my lines and fired it up. Never bled a single line at all. Yes it still runs like trash after it starts but a few good hard revs of the throttle and its idling smooth.