Hello, I would like to apologize for the long post!

Okay so I'll start it off with what I have done to the truck so far. It is a 1998.5 2500 5-Speed 4x4 Cummins. A little under 900 maybe 1000 miles ago I have installed a new VP44, Airdog 100, OEM Cummins connector tubes, 7x.009 100hp injectors, and I also had to have my computer rebuilt because the throttle circuit was shorted out(I may also add that the truck used to prime for 3 seconds and it no longer does, I used to be able to access system function from a scanner and no longer can, The truck sounded ever so slightly different after I installed rebuilt ecm aswell). I have a few more things coming within the next 3 days including banjo washers for the bolt at the back of the head(I may also buy the Fuel Grommets at the return T soon aswell), BD Boost Fooler, and an Adjustable Turbo Elbow. There is also a programmer for sale that I may pick up aswell next week. But anyways now to my problem. I installed the new injection pump and airdog at the same time and then drove the truck for about 2 weeks and it sounded slightly different but ran fine.Then I decided to pull the trigger on some DFI 7x.009s . I installed them and the truck started up, smoke white for about 30-45 seconds and slowly went away and the "Air-Filled" idle started to go away too. The truck still had a rough idle after letting it sit for a while. So I got into contact with Chris and he sent another set out the next day. Boom the rough idle is gone. If I am in neutral and let the RPMs climb and then hold them at a certain spot the truck will shake quite a bit or whenever I accelerate hard the truck shakes quite a bit aswell. But the acceleration could be bad u-joint on front driveshaft maybe? If I give the truck more throttle there is an odd "miss" sound coming from the exhaust(not from the motor that I can hear anyways) The sound reminds me of an old non turbo 7.3. I ordered feeler guages and they will be here Monday and I will be adjusting my valves to see if that helps as they have never been adjust before. I know of two 2002 6-speed dodges that have 100hp and 150hp injectors and they do not sound like mine. Does anyone have an answer of how to fix it? I'm guessing maybe the tune in the computer is off and I just couldn't hear it with the smaller stock injectors or maybe the valves are opening slightly off and it is doing this or something? 

Mine would do that with bigger injectors too. Not enough heat in everything for it to burn it properly. Typically below 400 on the egts and mine would pop. 

39 minutes ago, Mopar1973Man said:

Whoa... Geez... The shop I deal with in Lewiston Idaho will pop test injectors for FREE! Now if you want them tuned they cost $15 an injector or $90 for all 6 to be retuned.

I wish we had places like that around here, they want 15-20 just to pop test them. I can probably build something for that much to pop test.

I just bought a set  50's from DAP and asked them what they we charge to rebuild my RV's. $110 to redo them unless they had to replace any of the nozzles. $300 for an hours worth of work is excessive.

On 4/13/2017 at 9:29 PM, TFaoro said:

Mine would do that with bigger injectors too. Not enough heat in everything for it to burn it properly. Typically below 400 on the egts and mine would pop. 

Okay so you said your truck does it too with lower EGTs. The truck does it more often after it has set for a little while. If I let it idle for a minute or so I can start to hear this completely random "chug" I guess is how I would say it. Its like the exhaust pop problem I'm having but it does it while idling. There is no pattern to it at all. I have also noticed that the entire motor will change tone while driving down the road. IT didn't start doing any of this until after I had this computer replaced. I'm going to purchase a smarty after I sell these subwoofers. A guy is coming to pick them up sometime next week. I will reflash the ecm with it and see if the exhaust pop stops and the motor quits changing tone randomly and also stops chugging at idle randomly. The problems started to arise after this dang computer got rebuilt. The way the truck cylces before started, the way the truck sounds entirely, the way it jerks randomly, the exhaust pop. All these symptoms were there before the bigger injectors but after the new computer. The injectors made them much more noticeable. TFaoro does your truck seems to pop/chug/whatever you want to call it under acceleration after bigger injectors. I am disgusted every time i shift cause it starts to make the sound and it is one of the worst sounds I have heard. Its so noticeable! I don't like it at all haha.

Mine always had a random chug at idle. Not sure why, but it would go away while driving. Free revving it had the same chug too. 

It did not do it while driving ever.

I now have a Ppump, so... all of the ecm, vp, sensor "issues" are gone forever for me

9 hours ago, TFaoro said:

I now have a Ppump, so... all of the ecm, vp, sensor "issues" are gone forever for me

 

Uh no... You still have the PCM and it issues, central timer and its issues, ABS computer and its issues, etc.. So all you done is removed the VP44. 

Almost sounds like when cycling through on the high idle switch you'll get a quick engine rev or slight lug then back to normal. Maybe your IAT or coolant sensor is on the fritz causing your timing to be all over the place? A live data tool like the obdii would answer that question.

Edited April 26, 20177 yr by notlimah

43 minutes ago, notlimah said:

Almost sounds like when cycling through on the high idle switch you'll get a quick engine rev or slight lug then back to normal. Maybe your IAT or coolant sensor is on the fritz causing your timing to be all over the place? A live data tool like the obdii would answer that question.

 

 

Check both the IAT and ECT temperature at first key on in the morning to see if they match. If so the two sensors are still good. Then watch the sensors as you drive. ECT should be normally 190-200*F and IAT will be roughly +40*F over outside air temperature at full engine temperature of 190-200*F.

I have a scan tool that reads live data. The truck has been sitting for about 3 hours.Is that long enough to go hook it up and see if the sensors are reading correctly? The camshaft position sensor was starting to go bad before I put the new vp44 on it so I wouldn't be surprised if more sensors start to go out.

7 hours ago, Mopar1973Man said:

 

Uh no... You still have the PCM and it issues, central timer and its issues, ABS computer and its issues, etc.. So all you done is removed the VP44. 

And as it all dies I'll replace it with toggle switches  #racetruck

 

22 minutes ago, Waydin_Stewart said:

I have a scan tool that reads live data. The truck has been sitting for about 3 hours.Is that long enough to go hook it up and see if the sensors are reading correctly? The camshaft position sensor was starting to go bad before I put the new vp44 on it so I wouldn't be surprised if more sensors start to go out.

Yes that should be long enough for the IAT to get as hot as the ECT

Morning check would be more optimal. 

Is your exhaust manifold tight.

 

I installed ducky sac 100s and love them. My truck idles very smooth gets 20mpg or better and has more power then I need.

 

It will push egts up there in a head wind pulling a hill empty. 

 

I'd look at rem and injector install.

 

Then park till you do a fuel and why gauge

On 5/3/2017 at 7:34 AM, Evan said:

Is your exhaust manifold tight.

 

I installed ducky sac 100s and love them. My truck idles very smooth gets 20mpg or better and has more power then I need.

 

It will push egts up there in a head wind pulling a hill empty. 

 

I'd look at rem and injector install.

 

Then park till you do a fuel and why gauge

I have been very busy lately and have not been able to check the IAT and ECT as stated above. I will hopefully check those today or tomorrow. I will check the manifold bolts to see if that would be the problem. But wouldnt that cause the popping sound to come from the engine and not the exhaust tip?

Did you check valve lash by chance.

20 hours ago, Mopar1973Man said:

Did you check valve lash by chance.

Yeah I adjusted them to .10 and .20 and followed the write up thoroughly before during and after adjustment. 

Okay I checked the IAT and ECT at first startup and they were 75* and 74.8* respectively. They went up steadily as I drove into town and at full operating temperature they read normal and as mopar stated the IAT was about +40* above outside. These read normal so what would be my next step in troubleshooting? If I purchased a 5" turbo back exhaust and that smarty do you think it would relieve some back pressure and keep the computer form changing tones while driving? I want the exhaust for lower EGTs and they sound pretty darn good IMO but I just want the truck to stop sounding like an IDI 7.3 powerstroke.