I have got a weird problem maybe one of you can chime in with a answer on my predicament. I have a 2001 3500 5.9 with a starting issue. I already replaced the IP and  got it started with the help of Doug from Blue Chip following his directions. However, it will only run with the C3 wiring  connector unplugged from the PCM?? It has np power and the odometer reads NO BUSS due to the C3 plug unplugged. I am trying to trace the wires from the PCM in the C3 wiring and have not found anything yet. How would I know if a wire is bad on one of these wires? Also could it be something else? Any suggestions would be appreciated!!

 

Thanks!

Steve

AAARRGGGHH! went out to try to start it after I replaced the batteries in the remote, heard it unlock the door to disarm and the dang batteries are down it wont start. I just had them charged!  I put both batteries on a charge, they are not that old.

The CKP is the crank positioning sensor. Your 01 may or may not have. I think the early 01s had and the large 01s did not. The later models have only a can sensor like the 02s. Where the wire goes I don't know, sensor or ECM  not sure.

On 2/26/2018 at 4:29 PM, Mopar1973Man said:

It's a dealer only thing. You would have to program the fob for that vehicle.  You can't just trade fob and expect it to work. They must be programmed by a DRBIII tool which the dealer has. Other than then any Dodge owner would be able to steal your truck. 

Hey guys i've been busy and sick with this crazy flu, @Mopar1973Man any ways you can actually program the key fobs with the ccd bus beta tool.

No stealership visits necessary or the drb3 tool.

Edited February 28, 20187 yr by Chris O.

I just looked up drb3 tool, they're only like 2800 bucks on freebay. 

18 hours ago, mopar440cu said:

In the wiring diagram I am confused on the C1 connecter still . What does CKPEng stand for and where does it go? Also the Fused B+ on the same connector where does it go. The diagram does not show . Does that mean they go to the ECM possibly?

 

That Crank Sensor (Tach signal) it comes from the ECM. 

 

7 hours ago, Chris O. said:

@Mopar1973Man any ways you can actually program the key fobs with the ccd bus beta tool.

 

 How?

Key fob programming available in CTM menu, currently the beta software does not auto detect CTM version.

You can only do this on High-line and Premium-line CTM version, if your truck has overhead console then it should be equipped with either High-line CTM or Premium-line CTM version.

 

Three versions of the Central Timer Module (CTM) are available:
 Base version (CTM)~(No connection to CCD BUS)
 High-line version (CTM) and Premium-line version (CTM)~(heated seats option).

https://mopar1973man.com/files/file/155-chrysler_ccd_beta_013inoinohex/

Ok, update. I used the remote FOB and disarmed it and she still didn't start up. I also unlocked the door twice with the key, another site suggest this, and it also did not start. The only way it starts is I have to unplug the ground wire connector that goes to the C1 near the passenger battery or disconnect the C1 wire. This  is driving me nutz!!

Perhaps it's the switch.

Make sure the CAV-PIN 6 works correctly (A/T) PARK/NEUTRAL POSITION SWITCH SENSE.

 

POWERTRAIN CONTROL MODULE C1 (DIESEL) - BLACK 32 WAY
CAV -----CIRCUIT------------------FUNCTION
1 - -
2 -------F18 18LG/BK--------------FUSED IGNITION SWITCH OUTPUT (RUN-START)
3 - -
4 -------K4 18BK/LB----------------SENSOR GROUND
5 - -
6 ------T41 18BK/WT---------------(A/T) PARK/NEUTRAL POSITION SWITCH SENSE <----------------------
7 - -
8 ------K24 18GY/BK---------------CRANKSHAFT POSITION SENSOR SIGNAL
9 - -
10 - -
11 - -
12 - -
13 - -
14 - -
15 - -
16 - -
17 - -
18 - -
19 - -
20 - -
21 - -
22 -------A14 14RD/WT--------------FUSED B(+)
23 -------K22 18OR/DB--------------THROTTLE POSITION SENSOR SIGNAL
24 - -
25 - -
26 - -
27 - -
28 - -
29 - -
30 - -
31 ------Z12 14BK/TN--------------GROUND
32 ------Z12 14BK/TN--------------GROUND

 

The way I see it, it's a safety switch preventing you from starting the truck if the switch is constantly open not in PARK/NEUTRAL position.

I believe the switch should be connected to (GND) in park or neutral position.

Edited February 28, 20187 yr by Chris O.

15 hours ago, Chris O. said:

Perhaps it's the switch.

Make sure the CAV-PIN 6 works correctly (A/T) PARK/NEUTRAL POSITION SWITCH SENSE.

 

POWERTRAIN CONTROL MODULE C1 (DIESEL) - BLACK 32 WAY
CAV -----CIRCUIT------------------FUNCTION
1 - -
2 -------F18 18LG/BK--------------FUSED IGNITION SWITCH OUTPUT (RUN-START)
3 - -
4 -------K4 18BK/LB----------------SENSOR GROUND
5 - -
6 ------T41 18BK/WT---------------(A/T) PARK/NEUTRAL POSITION SWITCH SENSE <----------------------
7 - -
8 ------K24 18GY/BK---------------CRANKSHAFT POSITION SENSOR SIGNAL
9 - -
10 - -
11 - -
12 - -
13 - -
14 - -
15 - -
16 - -
17 - -
18 - -
19 - -
20 - -
21 - -
22 -------A14 14RD/WT--------------FUSED B(+)
23 -------K22 18OR/DB--------------THROTTLE POSITION SENSOR SIGNAL
24 - -
25 - -
26 - -
27 - -
28 - -
29 - -
30 - -
31 ------Z12 14BK/TN--------------GROUND
32 ------Z12 14BK/TN--------------GROUND

 

The way I see it, it's a safety switch preventing you from starting the truck if the switch is constantly open not in PARK/NEUTRAL position.

I believe the switch should be connected to (GND) in park or neutral position.

Ok, if it is the NSS the switch is an open and closed circuit I assume.

"The switch connector has three terminals and wires. 
The White wire is a power wire from the #3 (Back-up light) fuse. 

The Violet/Black wire is the output to the back-up lights and is hot when the switch is closed. (in reverse)
The Brown/Yellow wire is the ground circuit from the Starter Relay. When the switch/circuit is open there is no ground for the relay, hence, no start. 
When the switch is closed (in park or neutral) the circuit & relay is grounded thru the switch - to the trans. case."    -JDancoe, posted in the TDR.

 

My question to you is if the relay has no ground to start does this mean it wont crank over or does it mean it will crank but wont start? Mine cranks, but wont fire up.

3 hours ago, mopar440cu said:

My question to you is if the relay has no ground to start does this mean it wont crank over or does it mean it will crank but wont start? Mine cranks, but wont fire up.

You're right the switch is only preventing starter motor cranking.

On 2/28/2018 at 12:01 PM, Chris O. said:

Key fob programming available in CTM menu, currently the beta software does not auto detect CTM version.

You can only do this on High-line and Premium-line CTM version, if your truck has overhead console then it should be equipped with either High-line CTM or Premium-line CTM version.

 

Three versions of the Central Timer Module (CTM) are available:
 Base version (CTM)~(No connection to CCD BUS)
 High-line version (CTM) and Premium-line version (CTM)~(heated seats option).

https://mopar1973man.com/files/file/155-chrysler_ccd_beta_013inoinohex/

yep it works good.  I programmed my keyless again.  

I know this is a loonnngggggg shot in the dark but. . .I am fairly certain this is the same problem I am having and I am wondering what the resolution was.  
 

I have an active thread on the forum btw.

Same problem going on with 2 of my trucks (an 01 and 02) had to buy another (2000) cummins to continue working, getting desperate and waiting money now

I'm sitting on 2 ecms and 2 pcms and 2 vp44s (1 new each and 1 known good each) for this no start issues, then after reading this forum got both trucks to start with unplugging either c1 or c3 from pcm

If both are plugged in it doesnt start or instantly dies if plugged in while running

Was also wondering if yall found the exact reasoning/fix for this would be very appreciative , just need to know what to do

On a side note on my wrecked 01 I was able to mix and match all 3 new and old ecm and pcms and it started and ran, same with 4 differant vp44s, through lots of trial and error they are at least known good

Find the light green / black wire on the connector that goes to engine harness it's near the center by where the vacuum lines tee off. Back probe or pierce it with a voltmeter or test light even better. It should have 12 volts with key on. Then plug in PCM if the voltage drops out then it's  loading it down. The ltgn/ bk wire goes through a fuse on the side of dash. I had a truck that a mouse chewed the wire behind the clutch pedal.  The red/ white wire is always hot check it the same way.