I must first say, I'm not worried about anything with my Cummins. It runs fine and fires every first crank. I do not think i have excessive blowby either. It doesn't smoke or burn oil excessively. 

 

But, the idea comes into mind, why not? They say to add it in every oil change. I know it's not a silver bullet, but if i can use it as a preventative, why not. Maybe i will see any increase in performance or efficiency or longevity. 

 

I hardly hear anything bad about it, but was curious to hear what others have to say about it on this forum. I think this product has allot of merit and was considering putting it in every engine i have for good measure. 

I'm not a believer in oil additive products. Do some research on the products. There is a lot of fixes in a bottle and rarely do any of them do as advertised.

4 hours ago, Mopar1973Man said:

. There is a lot of fixes in a bottle and rarely do any of them do as advertised.

 Baileys in your coffee works.

Edited December 3, 20177 yr by JAG1

 

2 hours ago, JAG1 said:

 Baileys in your coffee works.

Don't forget the Amoretta.

Like there is an ad I keep seeing which is "Steel Seal". It a head gasket repair in a bottle. They claim it will fix any coolant jacket leak into the combustion chamber. The funny part read around you'll find pictures of the mechanics replacing head gasket because it plugged up the coolant passages. 

 

There was a time of oil additives that claim that an engine can run without oil. etc. The videos look impressive one thing they never do is open back up the engine and measure all the parts like pistons, bearings, crank, etc for changes either improvement or change of wear. Now you'll have my attention. Since now of these products have any material proof from a 3rd party testing lab I'm not going to waste my time with a fix in a bottle. 

 

https://www.restoreusa.com/index.php

Edited December 3, 20177 yr by Mopar1973Man

Yep I agree with what Mike said about any sort of snake oil lubricant additives.

There is one product that is very good in the cooling system though.

I have used these for many many years and they do work excellent. Used to put them into the cooling system of every brand new overhaul or rebuild or even after a head was off for work. Many places who build engines and sell them to public put them in as well. very cheap insurance.

I would not use any other snake oil additive other than these. I have used them and seen them work to seal up the small coolant weep numerous times that B cummins are known for in the right front of the block as well.

 

http://www.acdelco.com/auto-parts/vehicle-maintenance/mechanical-repair/cooling-system-seal-tabs.html

Edited December 3, 20177 yr by Wild and Free

My experience with this was in my old 98 1500 5.9 (360) got the truck with about 160,000. It was well taken care of but as most of the Mopar v8 engines it burned some oil. I had to add about a quart every 2000k. I started using the restore and after the second oil change I never had to add oil again... Maybe I'm lucky, maybe I'm a an exception or maybe I'm just a liar, but not very many LA engines don't burn oil and not to many suddenly stop either.. It ended up being the best running 2nd gen gas I ever drove (my family has had quite a few). 

Interesting...

I've tried Restore in a 2001 Volvo S80 with a 6 cylinder engine.  Check engine light on,  compression test show a low cylinder, not a valve problem.   Added 1 can of the 6 cylinder Restore.  After a few hundred miles of driving the compression was up about 20 psi, not enough to take care of the problem.  Customer donated car.

So there is a bit of truth to the product. Is it worth the money for such little gains?

 

 

 

Here's just a couple I've watched...

 

Otoh,

 

Restore (00012) 6-Cylinder Formula Engine Restorer and Lubricant - 12.5 oz.

http://www.walmart.com/ip/Restore-00012-6-Cylinder-Formula-Engine-Restorer-and-Lubricant-12-5-oz/33753853

 

It's pretty cheap, and considering we go 7500 miles between changes, i think this could definitely help an engine from riding the line. I agree, there is no substitute for a freshly bored or honed cylinder and new rings. But if maybe your a person that can't afford that right now or maybe you just want shone insurance...

Edited December 4, 20177 yr by hex0rz

Interesting topic!

I think my skid steer is down on compression a bit on one of the cylinders. I could throw this in and see if it makes a difference I guess. I don't have a way to compression test it, but you'd be able to tell by the blowby whether it helped or not. Then we'd have some results from this forum. 

Cant hurt on worn stuff. It cant all be snake oil. I used a Berryman fuel additive on my John Deere lawn tractor that helped it. Not a cure all but it worked. 

36 minutes ago, dripley said:

Cant hurt on worn stuff. It cant all be snake oil. I used a Berryman fuel additive on my John Deere lawn tractor that helped it. Not a cure all but it worked. 

 

Yeah if something is on its last leg it's worth a shot. 

My cure all for all of my small gas engines around the place was when I switched to 91 non ethanol premium gas several years ago. Have not needed to mess around with one to get it to start or run good since the switch, they all start easier and run better all around.

1 minute ago, Wild and Free said:

 

Yeah if something is on its last leg it's worth a shot. 

My cure all for all of my small gas engines around the place was when I switched to 91 non ethanol premium gas several years ago. Have not needed to mess around with one to get it to start or run good since the switch, they all start easier and run better all around.

There are a very few places around here that sell non ethanol gas and I never thought trying it since they are not close at hand. Just might have to give that shot and see what happens. 

3 hours ago, Wild and Free said:

they all start easier and run better all around.

I've noticed this also.  I run the 91 non ethanol in all my small engines and have found then to start up with no problems even after they have sat unused for months at a time.

All of my small engines have fuel valves. I don't use the kill switch but shut the fuel supply off and let the carb run dry. Even my big generator for the house that might get ran 1 or 2 times an entire year. Easy to pull start every time.

32 minutes ago, Mopar1973Man said:

shut the fuel supply off and let the carb run dry

That's what I do with my boat motor and 5^th wheel generator otherwise the fuel can evaporate in the carburetor fuel bowl over time and leave a varnish behind that will plug up the fuel jet. 

The fuel in the tank is still good to go with out any fuel stabilizer.

Edited December 6, 20177 yr by IBMobile

The only gas powered things I have  with fuel shut off valves are my 2 Generators where the tank is above the engine and I run them dry as well, all other gas powered stuff I own do not have shut off valves and they sit for roughly 6 months unused through winter so 91 premium which is mandated by law to have a 1 year minimum shelf life is the only option. Regular ethanol begins to degrade after 30 days and regular non ethanol has a 60-90 day window before it begins to degrade. I have heard from mechanics that local municipalities go as far as blending Avgas to premium gas for nearly indefinite storage life as avgas has a completely different set of rules for stability. I had heard they do a 25% avgas to 75% premium blend as a lot of things they use may sit for a couple years or longer between uses.

On 12/5/2017 at 8:51 PM, Wild and Free said:

 

Yeah if something is on its last leg it's worth a shot. 

My cure all for all of my small gas engines around the place was when I switched to 91 non ethanol premium gas several years ago. Have not needed to mess around with one to get it to start or run good since the switch, they all start easier and run better all around.

I have not used ethanol in 20 years (what a scam that is) and never had problems with fuel systems. But got a lot of free stuff from people that use ethanol and most time all I had to do is clean carbs, I even told to whoever was bringing something over that that is the problem but no one even wanted it back they were so tired of it lol. 

On 12/6/2017 at 1:11 AM, IBMobile said:

The fuel in the tank is still good to go with out any fuel stabilizer.

I use seafom as a stabilizer in our boats, I do not however use that red stabil crap.

I've use Seafoam, through a vacuum port at the intake manifold, to clean the top end of a gas engine then add a can to 1/2 tank of fuel prier to state smog inspection.   This helps to lower the NO_X emissions.