Does my one have a list of supplies needed to do this. I couldn’t find an actual materials list in the articles about this mod. Thanks. 

I used the one on the left (inline) on my winch rated at 150 amps, but pops way too easy as maximum winch draw according to spec is 360 amps, so I got a 300amp coming, as for alternator I used the one on the right rated at 150amp, so far no problem. 

36 minutes ago, Dieselfuture said:

I used the one on the left (inline) on my winch rated at 150 amps, but pops way too easy as maximum winch draw according to spec is 360 amps, so I got a 300amp coming, as for alternator I used the one on the right rated at 150amp, so far no problem. 

Only problem with this one I see is east to ground out not protected. Has anyone found one that is better protected?

No diferent than battery post, just be ware, or what I do sometimes is hot glue a cap over things. I may do that, it comes off fairly easy. Maybe put a pice of tape over first or anything really, then glue over top.

I went with a fuse. The fuse is silver coated and sealed inside an O ring cover. I carry an extra fuse in the glove box. I read that breakers can be unreliable and some even when new tripped at half their rated amps. 

Edited February 22, 20196 yr by JAG1

Following, need to do this mod.

I wonder if this would be reliable with a 220 amp alternator ?

42 minutes ago, cumminsdog said:

I wonder if this would be reliable with a 220 amp alternator ?

Yes it would be a good thing for your truck, but you will need a 220 amp breaker or fuse on the B+ line.

 

Edited February 24, 20196 yr by JAG1

55 minutes ago, cumminsdog said:

I wonder if this would be reliable with a 220 amp alternator ?

 

You could be it does mean it solves the AC noise issue. Diodes still fail just the same. 

 

The key problem is no matter how big of an alternator you buy the problem is always there. The problem is you start up and then the grid heater are banging away at idle (800 RPM's). The alternator is spinning at idle speeds too so now there is no cooling for the diodes and they get hot and fail. No alternator is designed to charge at full load at idle speed. 

 

A solution. Even works for stock alternators. Install a Quadzilla and set the high idle for a 15-second delay. Now the idle is brought up to 1,200 RPM increasing the cooling ability of the alternator as well its ability to charge and handle that 190 amp load. 

 

Poor man solution. Don't leave it idle to warm up. Start it up and get moving instantly. Once the vehicle is moving faster than 25 MPH grid heaters are canceled.

 

@IBMobile is making a grid heater control switch that allows for disabling the grid heater without an error code. Smog state compliant. 

Edited February 24, 20196 yr by Mopar1973Man

With a 225 amp alternator is it best that Cumminsdog  increase the size of his charge cable? I think that is true for higher amp breaker or fuse.

O.K.  I installed my Circuit Breaker on the Front side of the Battery box, out of the way of the occasional wash down.  But my truck is from Arizona and a Grid Heater delete by P.O.  We are looking to move up Post Falls way.  I assume that I'll have to retrofit the Grid heaters back on for the cold weather?  I was looking at taking the truck to South Lake Tahoe next weekend.  Is Grid Heater a mandatory for cold weather start.

 

Sorry did n't mean to Hi-Jack but it went down the Grid Heater Road.

 

TIA  Michael

Edited February 24, 20196 yr by int3man
Typo's

1 minute ago, int3man said:

I assume that I'll have to retrofit the Grid heaters back on for the cold weather?

 

Ummm... If your morning start is below +30*F out then yes you'll need grid heaters. Above +30*F I never even think to wait for the grid heaters I just fire up and go.

 

1 minute ago, Mopar1973Man said:

 

Ummm... If your morning start is below +30*F out then yes you'll need grid heaters. Above +30*F I never even think to wait for the grid heaters I just fire up and go.

 

And if its colder I run the risk of no start?  What's the down side?  Run the batteries flat?  Where we are staying only has valet parking so that's the risk factor.  The weather is right  in that temperature range.

 

Michael

Just now, int3man said:

And if its colder I run the risk of no start?

 

No start will most likely occur at +20*F.

 

Between +20*F and +30*F its a tough start longer cranking and stuttering when it does light off.

 

1 minute ago, int3man said:

What's the down side?

 

Longer cranking is the downside and excessive starter wear. Then added run time required to keep the batteries charged up. 

 

2 minutes ago, int3man said:

Run the batteries flat?

 

I've seen guys eat the starter before eating the batteries. Starter gets hot on long excessive cranking. 

1 minute ago, Mopar1973Man said:

 

No start will most likely occur at +20*F.

 

Between +20*F and +30*F its a tough start longer cranking and stuttering when it does light off.

 

 

Longer cranking is the downside and excessive starter wear. Then added run time required to keep the batteries charged up. 

 

 

I've seen guys eat the starter before eating the batteries. Starter gets hot on long excessive cranking. 

 

Hi Mike,

              I assume that Ether is not an option?  to get it to catch?  

 

Also Please PM me, I watched your "Off the Grid" Video, what is the source of water for the waterwheel?  Natural Spring?  You certainly aren't pumping water to make electricity and your aren't drinking the water that goes through he wheel?

Michael

20 minutes ago, int3man said:

I assume that Ether is not an option?  to get it to catch?

 

Don't use ether if you can. It will make your truck an Ether Baby. Wipes the rings out after a while. For a quick fix you can but VERY small spray goes a long way. Make sure the grid heater is removed or disconnected.

 

20 minutes ago, int3man said:

Also Please PM me, I watched your "Off the Grid" Video, what is the source of water for the waterwheel?  Natural Spring?  You certainly aren't pumping water to make electricity and your aren't drinking the water that goes through he wheel?

 

 

More here. No PM box...

 

Edited February 24, 20196 yr by Mopar1973Man

26 minutes ago, int3man said:

I was looking at taking the truck to South Lake Tahoe next weekend.  Is that a mandatory for cold weather start.

I do a lot of camping south of there at 7200' with the morning temps at 25°-32°F.  The engine starts with the heaters disconnected but with a lot of white smoke (unburned fuel) and rough idle.  This is why I made the grid heater bypass switch so I can use them when I need them with no 'check engine' light.     

19 minutes ago, IBMobile said:

I do a lot of camping south of there at 7200' with the morning temps at 25°-32°F.  The engine starts with the heaters disconnected but with a lot of white smoke (unburned fuel) and rough idle.  This is why I made the grid heater bypass switch so I can use them when I need them with no 'check engine' light.     

Thanks! I'll watch the weather report.

 

Michael

On 2/21/2019 at 2:13 PM, IBMobile said:

Yes, it can be in stalled to protect the alternator in that cable.  Some people are using a 150 amp circuit breaker and others are opting for a fuse block with a 150 amp AMI/MIDI or ANL/AMG type fuse.

                                                                           circuit breaker

                                               

 

                                          

I found a 150 amp fuse and holder but it says only 1500 watts with 4 gauge from alt. With grid heaters will it be more than that watts?

21 minutes ago, Mad Bomber said:

I found a 150 amp fuse and holder but it says only 1500 watts with 4 gauge from alt. With grid heaters will it be more than that watts?

 

14.8 volts x 190 amps = 2,812 Watts. This is absolute worse case. 

 

This fuse is for alternator protection only with the stock alternator out put at <140 amps. 

 

When the engine starts the grid heaters alternate being on and off. The two are not on together and there is about a 3 sec. delay between switching grid heaters so only about a 90 amp added load.  When the grid heaters come on with engine running only and no other electrical load the voltage will drop to about 14.1 volts and 1269 watts.

 

Example: grid heater #1 on for 5 seconds then turns off,  all heaters off for 3 seconds,  grid heater #2 on for 5 seconds then turns off,  all grid heaters off for 3 seconds,  Repeat.