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We are privately owned, with access to a professional Diesel Mechanic, who can provide additional support for Dodge Ram Cummins Diesel vehicles. Many detailed information is FREE and available to read. However, in order to interact directly with our Diesel Mechanic, Michael, by phone, via zoom, or as the web-based option, Subscription Plans are offered that will enable these and other features.  Go to the Subscription Page and Select a desired plan. At any time you wish to cancel the Subscription, click Subscription Page, select the 'Cancel' button, and it will be canceled. For your convenience, all subscriptions are on auto-renewal.

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Does my one have a list of supplies needed to do this. I couldn’t find an actual materials list in the articles about this mod. Thanks. 

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I used the other one. You hadn't responded and I had to get it done.

  • Owner
3 minutes ago, Mad Bomber said:

I used the other one. You hadn't responded and I had to get it done.

 

Check back, Michael Nelson replied   Tuesday at 07:44 PM  is the reply...

 

Edited by Mopar1973Man

DSCF4430.JPG

 

@Mopar1973Man Reading through the ground mod again. Is the ground in the above picture is made from the piece on the passenger side and the splice on the driver side? And where does it ground to? If I overlooked it, sorry in advance.

Edited by gipperkid

You shoud run a ground from the drivers negative to where you bolted the new ground splice to the gear case. You dont need the gray connector, just a aa piece of wire with ring trminals.

And in the original W-T write up there is reference to the PCM grounds at the auxiliary battery. In the simplified write-up I did not see mention of the PCM grounds. Are the PCM grounds fine the way they are?

The only tjing did to mine at the time was eliminate the connector and solder the wire together with the intention of replacing later. Later has not gotten hear yet. But even with that I saw an AC voltage drop of .035 to .01. Hope to adress mine while I have head off next week.

You need to follow that black across the engine where you will find the 4 wires connect on the drivers side.

I have a couple of questions, just started this today

 

1. my charge cable is molded into a rectangular block at the alternator, do I need to pull it out of that or as I'm thinking just cut it at the junction of the larger loom at the VP and go to 150amp/200amp charge fuse then passenger battery or is it removed because a heavier cable is used ? the molded block will hold the wires quite good

2. I'm not taking the charge wire out of the loom on the drivers side I'm just going to cut it right where it enters and exits the large loom, it is too short to leave it in the large loom and use it for the timing case earth so will just make another one

 

You also need to get the ground wire out too. Yes it takes time but 

Do 

It 

Right 

The 

First 

Time

DIRTFT 

2 hours ago, Mad Bomber said:

DIRTFT

Is this a new one we have to learn, or has it been around. Soon we'll be comunicating like this, hgyffsdrtjknvvklotrscvnkiy. 

No just something my dad always said

  • Owner
On 3/21/2019 at 9:49 AM, gipperkid said:

@Mopar1973Man Reading through the ground mod again. Is the ground in the above picture is made from the piece on the passenger side and the splice on the driver side? And where does it ground to? If I overlooked it, sorry in advance.

 

Yes, that was made from the passenger side wire. I reused everything and no issues. Bigger cable isn't needed for the stock alternator. 

  • 2 weeks later...

In the process of doing the W-T ground mod. I decided to just make a new alternator charge cable and new ground from the driver battery to block. The insulation was dry and cracked on the old wire. Anyway, I bought bare copper lugs, but should I have gone with tinned copper lugs? 

I used bare copper FWIW.

You can tin them yourself with solder if you want them tinned 

just finished this on mine tonight, 150amp resettable fuse bolted to right side battery tray, nice tidy job.

Next is fuel transfer pump relay, larger fuel lines from tank to pump then sort the seat belt warning light out, then I just might jump and get a quad but import duty and VAT is putting me off a bit, we'll see

Got my ground mod done. Decided to go with new cables since the insulation looked brittle on the existing wires. I attempted to buy lugs and crimpers off Amazon, but it made some of the most terrible crimps I have ever seen. So I had cables made for less money anyway. I went with 4 AWG for the charge cable and ground, and used a 150 amp mega fuse holder for the alternator. Looks clean and hopefully reduces ac noise. Still have to retest the ac noise.

Don't mind my dirty engine bay. And that crusty positive terminal has been cleaned.

IMG_20190421_132310.jpg

IMG_20190421_132320.jpg

Yes same here 150amp resettable fuse, drove the truck for the first time today since doing the mod, no difference at all but my truck hadn't got a problem with AC noise anyway

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Welcome To Mopar1973Man.Com LLC

We are privately owned, with access to a professional Diesel Mechanic, who can provide additional support for Dodge Ram Cummins Diesel vehicles. Many detailed information is FREE and available to read. However, in order to interact directly with our Diesel Mechanic, Michael, by phone, via zoom, or as the web-based option, Subscription Plans are offered that will enable these and other features.  Go to the Subscription Page and Select a desired plan. At any time you wish to cancel the Subscription, click Subscription Page, select the 'Cancel' button, and it will be canceled. For your convenience, all subscriptions are on auto-renewal.