So Im in the middle of swapping back to the HY while I rebuild the HX and the sun caught the back of the block just right and I see this.  I'm guessing it's the head gasket.  Agree?

 

 

Wel its in the right place but it looks awful dry and crusty to be an active leak. Is there any wet oil on it.

 

Or are focusing on the  whiteish tan stripe on the corner of the block. If it is leaking at either it should be wet with coolant or oil. Are you loosing either fluid?

The crusty yellow line.  No oil in my coolant and I recently had my oil tested and it showed no coolant.  Just going off the visual.  It's not wet but is slightly greasy.

Mine was in the exact spot. My gasket failed at the passenger rear corner. 

Gotta ask how many miles?

Around 290k

What are you running for a programmer

The magic number, around 300k miles the head start to curl front and rear and needs to be resurfaced. While you got it out might as well have the valves and guides done too. 

When it bought it a 160k it already had an edge EZ.  Still on it.

Well hopefully @dripley has found us a machine shop!

If you planning on going up in HP or bigger injectors just do the head studs and be done. 

20 minutes ago, Manimalmother said:

When it bought it a 160k it already had an edge EZ.  Still on it.

Well hopefully @dripley has found us a machine shop!

My time has been limited. None contacted as of yet. I will find one soon. 

 

Is there any wetness in the area shown? I dont see it.

4 minutes ago, dripley said:

My time has been limited. None contacted as of yet. I will find one soon. 

 

Is there any wetness in the area shown? I dont see it.

 

I'll check tomorrow on the wetness.  I'm not losing any noticable oil or coolant between changed.

 

6 minutes ago, Mopar1973Man said:

If you planning on going up in HP or bigger injectors just do the head studs and be done. 

 

Arp studs are a definite when the head comes off.

 

How hard is the exhaust manifold to get back on? Heard it's a bear.

Trick is to pump the coolant system up with a test and leave it sit cold with pressure. This way the coolant trail will show up. If it just weeping the coolant will dry as it runs down the hot block.

3 minutes ago, Manimalmother said:

How hard is the exhaust manifold to get back on? Heard it's a bear.

 

Bolt it on no issue...

 

2 hours ago, Mopar1973Man said:

Trick is to pump the coolant system up with a test and leave it sit cold with pressure. This way the coolant trail will show up. If it just weeping the coolant will dry as it runs down the hot block.

 

Bolt it on no issue...

 

 

Sounds like a very good test ... so how would a person do this and how much psi with water or air?

 

I think my local Cut Rate Auto Parts store ( O'Reilly's) has a loaner cooling system tester, would that be the right way to do it?

2 minutes ago, 015point9 said:

 

Sounds like a very good test ... so how would a person do this and how much psi with water or air?

 

I think my local Cut Rate Auto Parts store ( O'Reilly's) has a loaner cooling system tester, would that be the right way to do it?

 

Yep, you pressurize through the radiator cap, I'd pump it up to 18 psi or maybe upwards of 20.. and let it sit overnight. If you loose pressure then assume its leaking.  Usually one goes about 5psi over the pressure cap.

 

5 hours ago, Mopar1973Man said:

Mine was in the exact spot. My gasket failed at the passenger rear corner. 

Gotta ask how many miles?

 I'm understanding that the white color is baked coolant, is that the same yours looked like Mopar1973Man?

Mine didn't have the baked coolant caught it super early during an inspection. Mine showed up dripping within a mere 30 minutes after pumping it up cold. 

I noticed mine while looking around the engine one day. It was only seeping and the coolant was evaporating on the block. Just a chance catch on my part.

When my hg went it was pushing oil out of front of motor where middle bolt goes through. When I removed the gasket I took a closer look and found few other spots that was actually missing small part of gasket close to coolant passages and in between. It was a short matter of time before it would of blew coolant out of side someplace. Mine went around 150k, I believe it has more to do with age than mileage. Of course if you put 100k a year then there is a good chance you'll need a hg every 500k, or not. Definitely do a valve job, personally I would recommend spend another 100 bucks to machine the head so it accepts top hat style valve seals, that come on newer models now 

You guys got me real scared now since my coolant bottle keeps needing coolant. Refill about 1-2 inches each day, but I'm hoping its just the engine burping from a water pump replacement last weekend. I was changing the starter when coolant was dripping on me cheeks.

No Dripley it the cheeks on my face not the way your thinkin' 

Edited March 15, 20196 yr by JAG1

I'm going to go by today and see if my mechanic uncle has a pressure tester and will test it tonight.

 

When the head gets pulled I'm considering having it o-ringed just because compounds may be in my future.  Any downside to this?

 

Should I go ahead and install new Hamilton springs?

 

How torn down does the head need to be to go to most machine shops?  I'm assuming completely bare.

 

I haven't had any luck finding a local shop either @dripley .  I found one but it had mediocre reviews and most of the negatives we're talking about how it took months to get parts back.  I need fast turnaround.

With a good shop that knows what they're doing all you need to do is take the head off and take it in without taking any off of it. If you want to install different springs bring them in and they'll put them on when they assemble it.