Morning guys, I’m wondering what I will need to have my trans hold 350 hp and reliably tow? I have a deep pan on the way and planning to do a lockup switch. I’m thinking I will do a set of rv275s and a small tuner of choice. So that’s about all I’ll be doing for power. Also what do I need to know about monitoring trans temps? What is to high and what is safe? 

Edited June 27, 20196 yr by JAG1

My fluid changed colour after about 3 miles straight up a valley, I'm actually glad I haven't got gauges as I'd have bottled it and still there blocking the road 

Run in 4low

8 hours ago, Evan said:

Cow paths that keep you out of 3rd could be causing it to slip because torque converter is unable to lock in second 

That's exactly what happened.  Truck was towing and going to slow for a 2-3 shift up; torque convertor working like there's no tomorrow for 20 minuets; trans fluid temp went over 250°F (121°C).. 

Run in 4 low.

 

Youd need to reduce speeds and take advantage of the hidden gearing your truck has. Unless it's a 2wd in that case your fffffed. 

 

With tcase engaged theres less strain on motor and transmission. You then could get the converter locked in 3rd at the cost of reduced speeds. I'd rather go slower and make my transmission happy then to roast it with only fluid coupling going on.

35 minutes ago, IBMobile said:

That's exactly what happened.  Truck was towing and going to slow for a 2-3 shift up; torque convertor working like there's no tomorrow for 20 minuets; trans fluid temp went over 250°F (121°C).. 

 

This is where you need to enhance the air flow over the transmission cooler with a electric fan. I always though the idea of ISSPro EV2 transmission temperature gauge and ISSPro programmable relay and turn on a cooling fan at about 180*F.

 

In my opion being only fluid coupled it will roast no matter how much air you throw at it. This is one instant where 4.10 gears would be beneficial in increasing rpm slowing speed and potentially getting 3rd locked. 

For some reason lots are afraid of 4low 

 

 

This why the 47re gets a bad rep. One pull like this and 100k was just removed from its life. The tools are already on board to make it happy but very few use them

 

Bone dry road with lots of sharp bends so 4 low no use I needed 2 low and as I said before Id already gone past the point of no return due to a heavy vehicle sat nav screwing up.

Part way through the vid is a set of S bends, this is where the rear tyres were squealing and spinning out the day before pulling the 9k trailer, this vid is the truck on it's own

26 minutes ago, wil440 said:

 

Bone dry road with lots of sharp bends so 4 low no use I needed 2 low and as I said before Id already gone past the point of no return due to a heavy vehicle sat nav screwing up.

Part way through the vid is a set of S bends, this is where the rear tyres were squealing and spinning out the day before pulling the 9k trailer, this vid is the truck on it's own

Video is not working. was the road paved?

Yes tarmac road, also a few years ago I used to compete in off road events in a Landrover and know when not to use 4x4, I think the video isn't working because I tried to delete and add a smaller file as it was buffering badly, but there must be a MB daily limit as when I tried to add the smaller one a box popped up saying I could only add 173mb, I'll do it again tomorrow with the smaller file

6 hours ago, Evan said:

For some reason lots are afraid of 4low 

 

Because of the crow hoping it will do on corners and the stress it puts on the front driveline. 

Good place for 2w low. If you have done the mod that is.

Sounds a lot easier to do a five speed swap when she goes....

4 hours ago, Marcus2000monster said:

Sounds a lot easier to do a five speed swap when she goes....

Parts for that would be impossible to find here in the UK and silly money to ship from USA but it is the better option over there. I found a 5 speed on ebay.com for $2k just the box,that would be £2k shipped here and more

Edited July 1, 20196 yr by wil440

Going that slow it would be fine. I've ran 4low pulling grades with weight at 32k. It was a slightly different scenario was actually horse shoebend straight hill my truck in the 100deg  air temp. Everything getting hot. Yup I was that guy in 4low flashers on thinking WTF am I doing just like everyone passing was thinking lol. 

 

I've ran 4low in parades with a manual making some pretty good turns letting the truck idle through.

 

If things are heating 4low is a option.  If a trip like this is planned the front drive line could be pulled in preparation if the driver doesnt want to risk front end damage. 

 

Running 2low isnt a option for me because swapping ti hubs is spendy. 

But a front axle out of a 78 ford would be possibly feasible. Strip it and weld on all suspension components that the dodge needs. Would be a perfect time to go long arm suspension for not much more cost. And raise coil mounts 2" over factory to get rid of the 2" spacers I'm running .

 

Then I could also run a Detroit locker in the front when a locked front end isnt needed I'd just lock the drivers sid hub and leave the passenger side unlocked. 

 

Then I can also run drag link to the king pin steering arm and tie rod on the luckles the 2" raised coil buckets would allow the track bar mount on axle to also raise to match the drag link that's raised to the king pin.

 

Ok I gotta go to sleep now. I'm not building a offroad truck.

 

Heres towing 9k on freeway at 70mph bought 1900 rpm. Temp 121

 

Then this is sitting at a light in boise not sure a added fan would do much since fluid isnt moving like when driving 

5 hours ago, Evan said:

Running 2low isnt a option for me because swapping ti hubs is spendy

You dont have to swap the hubs. Just disable the CAD. The manual pull cables where you can engage the CAD for 4w lo or not for 2w lo. There is a way to do it the vacuum line also. I guess in a pinch you could disconnect the vacuum line from the CAD and plug it for 2w lo.

 

Mine does not like to make 90* or better turns in 4wd on pavement. Maybe on a long sweeping curve but definitely not 2nd gear 90* turns in town. Even when I back out of the gravel drive at home you can feel it start to bind up before I can pull forward and leave. Noticed that the other day while messing with the 4w in the drive way and forgot to take out upon leaving.

17 minutes ago, dripley said:

You dont have to swap the hubs. Just disable the CAD. The manual pull cables where you can engage the CAD for 4w lo or not for 2w lo. There is a way to do it the vacuum line also. I guess in a pinch you could disconnect the vacuum line from the CAD and plug it for 2w lo.

 

Mine does not like to make 90* or better turns in 4wd on pavement. Maybe on a long sweeping curve but definitely not 2nd gear 90* turns in town. Even when I back out of the gravel drive at home you can feel it start to bind up before I can pull forward and leave. Noticed that the other day while messing with the 4w in the drive way and forgot to take out upon leaving.

My truck dislikes turning much at all on tarmac roads, never mind 90* turns in 1st flat out 

Yes disengaging the axle will keep both fronts from turning but the open side gears do that anyways.

 

Cad axle disappear in 2001 I think also disappeared on jeeps in the 90s they went to a one piece inner axle and did away entirely with the vacumn actuated arm that slides the collar over to lock the inner axle together.

 

Still need hubs either way cad or not to disengage tires from transfer case while tcase is engaged , front axles spins 100percent of the time . 

 

Because the side gears are open with cad disconnected power goes to path of least resistance the unlocked inner axle so I guess not locking the actuator may work for tight turns. 

I was thi king alittle more

CAD disappeared in 02. I have an early 02 with it. Dodge used them until they ran out.

 

I dont know the mechanics of it but the mod seems to work fine.  If I had maneuver around switch backs as @wil440 decribes my truck would not like it in 4wd, unless the road was not paved.

I couldn't survive without the 2 low option....

Backing a 18k to 20k trailer having to slip the clutch.....  I would be crying.. (and changing clutches too often...)  with 2 low I just put it into reverse and let the clutch out.  The anti-stall programming in the ECM usually provides enough torque to just idle it into position.

 

I use it on the interstate also.  Road repairs / accident cause a backup?  no worries 2 low and 1st gear it just creeps and the anti stall just keeps the engine at idle.  (I will do this in a heartbeat empty too.)    5th in 2 low gets me to 40 mph or so.  So if traffic starts to pick up (and I didn't plan for it ahead of time) I can keep up and get her swapped back into high range without holding people up. 

 

I use it a bunch on the logging roads.  2 low and 2nd or 3rd is a perfect speed to handle the roads condition, and let me look into the woods for what I am looking for.

 

2 low and 1st is perfect for getting square bales on the trailer in the field by yourself.  Its wayyy slower than walking speed.  (of course 4 low is usually fine in the fields too....)

 

I use it very similar to a 2 speed rear axle in a dump truck.

 

Hag

I wonder how I got to 385k miles without 2 LO all these years? Only on my second clutch. Hmmm... 

 

 

 

Edited July 2, 20196 yr by Mopar1973Man