Has anyone installed one of these? Will this actually prevent gelling say at deep negative temps?

My fuel froze last year at -30 even with fuel treatment. At those temps isn't there the chance that the fuel would gel

before the lift pump?

I would install if it would actually prevent the gelling, but I figure there is a point below freezing where it will not matter.

 

 

 

I'd have to agree, if the truck sits outside all night at them temperatures, all fuel should be jailed up. I could see how it would be an aid while the truck is running. But if it's already running that warm fuel from the engine returning back should keep it from gelling either way. Then again it depends where it returns and how cold it is and how good of a fuel you have. Lots of ifs and buts. 

We've discussed this few times before and there were some other ideas that seemed promising, I'm sure that hater for fass would help,  just depends on situation.

And there is no choice but for the truck to sit outside, It is too long for the garage

 

I had forgotten about the return fuel, that would warm the fuel in the tank, huh?

 

The advice for the Fass Heater is to install the element above the water separator because the water

will freeze before the fuel will gel, but that does not solve the problem

of the fuel in the tank.

 

They have the stick on silicone pads that plug in like a block heater. I have seen on YouTube where they will put them\

on the bottom of the oil pan to keep the oil warm. Good Idea!

 

It seems like a non safe idea offhand, but what if you undersized the amperage on one of those heating pads

and stuck it on the fuel tank. The problem I see with that is that the fuel tank is plastic not metal, so it probably would

be somewhat ineffective.

 

I do not like getting in the truck and wondering if it is going to freeze up on me going down the road.

Could leave it running or somehow circulate fuel 

The last time it was this cold, it ran between -15 and -30 for nearly a week. The Fass is also mounted on the side of the frame rail and is not insulated at all from the cold. It probably could not hurt to relocate the thing.

Does wind chill even effect something like this? It seems it would because it would because more air movement would pull more heat.

Edited January 22, 20205 yr by Gary L Moore

I would have to say mounting location makes a huge difference. 

 

My AirDog 150 is mounted behind the transfer case. The coldest I've ran was -40*F and never gelled once. I do not use any anti-gel products either and have no fuel heater in the AirDog. 

 

Now another truck I installed a FASS 150 for a gent and install as FASS suggested location he's had nothing but troubles with that truck. It's froze and gelled up way easier than my truck and we both ran together for a week. My truck always started and ran the same fuel he was. His truck was gelled up and froze too many times and required a lot of 911 and heat to get fuel flowing. 

 

Location of the pump does make a difference. Being everything else is the same fuel, temperature and working times side by side. 

Edited January 22, 20205 yr by Mopar1973Man

Interesting....  My thoughts changed as I did my calculations....  If I did my math right, the 120 Watts (guessed the output of the heater) would be about 410 BTU/hour.  The diesel in the system would require (30 gal, @ 7 Lb/gal, .5 Btu LB F) about 105 Btu to raise it 1 degree F.  (assuming no losses <-----  lol there is the insulation and radiation)  So if you didn't lose any heat, you would gain about 3-4 degrees per hour..... 

 

I figured the tank to be about 1.6m surface area fuel temp at 60F and outside to be freezing (32F).  The heat loss due to radiation would be about 117 Watts. (if the wind is blowing across it it would be much worse) So if we get colder than zero, the tank would slowly get colder....    (your -30 atmospheric temp results in 318 watts to hold steady tank temp, so you would slowly lose tank temp.)

 

It looks like a bit of insulation, and the pump to occasionally circulate, that might work. 

 

I think you might have better luck with some heat trace and insulation on the tank.  Along with a heater at the fuel filters.  Turn the filter heaters on an hour before startup.  Leave the blanket plugged in all night.  (there are also small band heaters for the filters I am guessing.)

 

I need to learn a bit more about fuel gelling....  Does it immediately clear if temp is regained, or do you have to go warmer for  it to go away. 

 

just my thoughts,

 

Hag

 

 

 

have it on mine, just did a cold northern road trip over the past month. whenever I’d stop for fuel every 300-400 miles or so, I’d touch the filters and to drain, they were warm. So I’d say it’ll warm the filter after awhile if given enough time. 

I have had a friend that took the relay out of his and wired it to run for over 2hrs due to his filters freezing last year in ND. So I guess you could use it

I run it above the fuel-water filter, but also using fleetgaurd filters and was running nothing but pilot/loves/flying j/petro/ta diesel at the time. (35’ gooseneck)

 

I would not live without my fuel canister heater, it’s the stock one for the 2001 24v. The first place to prevent gelling is the filter, being that’s the first place fuel is going to gel, running a 8 micron filter vs. a 2 micron helps

 

Im also big on fuel treatment , the diesel Kleen in white bottle works for me, ( but do your research on them) being most stations around here treat to about -15F. I just like to add a little extra assurance. mixing #1 diesel with your #2 diesel will also help but at the same time drys out your fuel from lubercation. When distributors mix their winter blend all they are doing is mixing #1with #2, usually at about 20 to 30% #1. but then again depends where you get your fuel, probably 90% of the people behind the counter dont have a clue what they are selling.

 

 

2 hours ago, 01cummins4ever said:

probably 90% of the people behind the counter dont have a clue what they are selling.

No probably about it, FACT