I was 2 minutes from heading to town, brushing my teeth before I left and heard the crash. 

Let us know the damage so those that want to buy it can get a discount off of the 80 grand they are actually worth. I say this because have you seen the problems with the garbage coming out of the assembly lines? Seriously though, I hope it's not damaged too bad. Can't tell from the pic.

I’ll get some pictures when I move the tree. From what I can tell the suicide door is bent at the top and the glass shattered and popped out, and the roof is dented in pretty good. Hard to tell, even up close, with all the branches and pine needles in the way. Didn’t even hear the tree fall, but that glass busting sounded like a shotgun blast.

That luck for you.  Don't go to Vegas.  Body parts from a 2ed gen 1500 will fit.

If it's too bad just swap cabs. Make sure to swap all the electrical too.

Not sure what to expect really, not much of a body work guy. I’m picking my battles with this truck these days and this is a battle I didn’t want. 

It's repairable, junk yard door and a roof skin probably windshield it will get broke removing it. The insides won't show so cut, weld, hammer. About 5 spot weld cutting drill bits to get the skin off.

 Did it tweak the front door frame to?

I would try to fix it. I'm no boddy guy by any means but I think it could be done.

 

 On a side note, may I ask where the seat covers came from? They look pretty good.

16 hours ago, Doubletrouble said:

 Did it tweak the front door frame to?

I would try to fix it. I'm no boddy guy by any means but I think it could be done.

 

 On a side note, may I ask where the seat covers came from? They look pretty good.

The seats are factory, but the bottom seat cushion on the drivers side was replaced. Got the cushion from Geno’s and the cover from https://leather-auto-seats.com the owner of that site has specific knowledge of our trucks and was really helpful. 

Pic of the replacement cushion/cover 

 Replacement cover looks very good. I've been looking around for covers and honestly I think I might just find some decent seats from a salvage yard. It would be alot cheaper. Lol they get some premium prices for them covers.

 We'll see though. 

1 hour ago, Doubletrouble said:

they get some premium prices for them covers.

You aren't kidding. I believe I bought Cover Craft seat covers in 2017. Darn expensive but they are DURABLE! And for at least the first few years quite coffee repellent. 🙄

So the estimate I got today from my local shop was $8,600.34. Not doing that, so what all is involved with a cab swap? I know this won’t be cheap, but figuring out how not to pay 8K would be awesome. 

Biggest hassel is the wiring.  The dash has to come out to change it all. Hold on to the wiring in the doors too it could be differnt. You can leave the fenders on the cab but always remove the radiator so it doesn't get ruined. Need AC tool to seperate the lines.  Undo wires for fog lights and horn and connectors behind the driver side plastic fender skirt. The parking brake coupler is a pia to remove. Remove brake pedal pin and un bolt booster from inside let brake stuff set on motor tie back with a bunge.

Warning! block the wheels. remove shift linkage with a crow foot nail puller. Use the crow foot on the 4x4 too , remove bolt from transfer case and let shifter stay with the cab. Remove steering shaft bolt and slide back. remove batteries and disconnect engine wiring to

cab connectors. Undo ground strap cab to bed on passenger side. Remove 6 cab bolts. lift cab with floor jack and remove rubber mounts. Use 3 or 4 inch wide nylon straps

you may need to drill holes in the hook part and bolt to the mounting holes where the rubber was. Place old blankets between the straps and doors if the paint is really nice. Use 2 tractors with bucket loaders and wrap the straps around the buckets and slowly lift watch everything closely. Move truck back and set some wood pallets on a trailer then lower cab onto trailer.  Second method is remove doors and fashon some metal hooks to bolt heavy duty ratchet straps to the door hinges bolts and lift cab but you need a building with strong rafters. 3rd option use a 2 post lift. You might want to get a second opinion on the body work. Some guys will do it for less if there is no rush.

 

Almost forgot something.  Tie the steering wheel so the clock spring won't  get broken. Work slowly and safely. 

Way more work than I'd want to do...

 

Best of luck to you.

11 hours ago, Great work! said:

Biggest hassel is the wiring.  The dash has to come out to change it all. Hold on to the wiring in the doors too it could be differnt. You can leave the fenders on the cab but always remove the radiator so it doesn't get ruined. Need AC tool to seperate the lines.  Undo wires for fog lights and horn and connectors behind the driver side plastic fender skirt. The parking brake coupler is a pia to remove. Remove brake pedal pin and un bolt booster from inside let brake stuff set on motor tie back with a bunge.

Warning! block the wheels. remove shift linkage with a crow foot nail puller. Use the crow foot on the 4x4 too , remove bolt from transfer case and let shifter stay with the cab. Remove steering shaft bolt and slide back. remove batteries and disconnect engine wiring to

cab connectors. Undo ground strap cab to bed on passenger side. Remove 6 cab bolts. lift cab with floor jack and remove rubber mounts. Use 3 or 4 inch wide nylon straps

you may need to drill holes in the hook part and bolt to the mounting holes where the rubber was. Place old blankets between the straps and doors if the paint is really nice. Use 2 tractors with bucket loaders and wrap the straps around the buckets and slowly lift watch everything closely. Move truck back and set some wood pallets on a trailer then lower cab onto trailer.  Second method is remove doors and fashon some metal hooks to bolt heavy duty ratchet straps to the door hinges bolts and lift cab but you need a building with strong rafters. 3rd option use a 2 post lift. You might want to get a second opinion on the body work. Some guys will do it for less if there is no rush.

 

Almost forgot something.  Tie the steering wheel so the clock spring won't  get broken. Work slowly and safely. 

Excellent post, thank you for the detailed guidance. Is there an option #3? If I can get a rear door from a parts truck, will it be possible to straighten out/hammer out the door frame/jamb just to get it functional and dry? 

That's a strong area and hard to beat it out. Some relief cuts will help alot. Then weld back together with a mig.

36 minutes ago, Great work! said:

That's a strong area and hard to beat it out. Some relief cuts will help alot. Then weld back together with a mig.

That's the problem once you cut the structure it will never have the protection again. Even if welded. One of the few reasons I suggested cab replacement over repairing. That roof area is built with like a roll cage help protect you in a rollover. Once relief cut the metal to repair and weld again it will always be weak at that point. Yeah I've done body work for a few years in Pollock ID.

Edited April 5, 20232 yr by Mopar1973Man

Got the rear door unstuck today and got a better look. With the 2 options of replacing cab or pro body shop being very involved and or expensive I’m thinking it’s worth at least a try to straighten it out with a jack and a 2x4. Found a matching rear door for $100. Roof still won’t look pretty, but if I can get it weather sealed and functional I can figure out what to do longterm. 

I'd have a go at getting that out,no use to you though as I'm in the UK which would actually mean i'd have to do it as for one parts are silly money and  body shops here would also be silly money.

 

I would be taking the seats out and finding/buying/borrowing a hydraulic porta power, figue out where to position the PP on the floor to push upwards bracing and adding timber or steel sections to protect the floor, go nice and steady staying away from the roof skin and just concentrate on the side and see what happens, a good big dent puller would be usefull too, the one with weld on studs or make one.

Another option is to de spotweld the roof skin from the side structure then cut the damaged side/top peice out and tig in a new peice (you'd probably be able to find a peice from a damaged cab) I know what M73M says about it not being as strong but welded properly it will be fine, don't forget cars are only spot welded together

That saying I do love body work, doing a 2011 ford transit full cab floor, steps, inner and outer rockers at the moment 

Should I remove the headliner to pop the dent back up into place or leave it there and push against it?