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bhaf????

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Where do you find these filters? and what are there referance #'s

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I searched a couple of the brands & numbers & found a great deal on ebay motors not long ago. http://motors.shop.ebay.com/i.html?_nkw=Fram+CA6818&_sacat=&_dmpt=Motors_Car_Truck_Parts_Accessories&_odkw=Fram+CA6818&_osacat=0&bkBtn=&_trksid=p4506.m270.l1313 $39.99 + 11.03 shipping same place I got mine. Sold by Fram made by Donaldson & so marked

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    NAPA has them for about $50 too. I am on my second one. I only got about 100k miles out of the first one........

    • Owner

    I personally don't agree with washable filter because most times out of ten people deposite dirt and debris on the insideo f the filter by washing the wrong way. Then every time you wash filter the media breaks down more and more taking a bigger risk at opening holes in the media and allowing dirt to pass. As for washable BHAF there is a K&N, AFe, and few others but there media isn't as large as BHAF... Just for fun... My last BHAF which happen to be my first one lasted 135K miles and 7 years... Using the filter minder in the head of it... The filter minder never moved during its life but I always inspected the media. The madia started darkening on the inside so I gave up at that point. So even if you buy a BHAF you really can go a long ways... You got to remember most all roads out here are dirt. :stuned:

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    You guys really surprised me everytime, this is something that ive been looking out since i bought my truck, thank guys you are really a Dodge cummins guru:thumb1:

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    How much vacuum does it take to move the filter minder?

    • Owner

    How much vacuum does it take to move the filter minder?

    Filter minder is not measured in inches of mercury but in inches of water column. I think the filter minder is moved fully at 10 inches of water column. I've never actually measured it but the the amount of vacuum is less that sucking on a frosty milkshake but no more that sucking good sized 44 ounce drink with a long straw. The filter minder is very sensitive... :stuned:

    I ran about 60k on my first one, it got a little oil on it and had to get rid of it:duh: we wont go there:lmao2:But I really noticed the turbo a lot with the new bhaf. You think we need to change a little more often?

    Mine are trashed around 30k or 40k miles. I like the lower egts but I get tired of buying them. Napa has them on sale the second Saturday of every month in most places. I get mine with a napa account and I think they are around $40. I need to start driving in the places you guys are because i can't make one last 100k miles.

    Do you think you need to enclose that BHAF more than Mike's pictures shows to keep that filter from sucking in hot air from the engine?

    i have no heat sheild on mine. it is completely open under the hood. i have seen no differance in my egt's from my previous set up. i have yet to tow with this set up, but wll be doing that soon. if all remains the same there will be no heat sheild in mine at all.:2cents:

    under daily driving mine have not changed and i have no heat sheild at all.

    I have heard there is no diff. heat sheild or not. The heat sheild that I build will help keep mud and water from splashing up on it. But I dont see it making any diff.

    Strange enough warmer air produces better MPG numbers though... :smart:http://mopar.mopar1973man.com/cummins/2ndgen24v/mpg-fooler/mpg-fooler.htm Colder air tend to reduce MPG's... :stuned:

    Don't make it sound like something that it is not. Whether the air is cold or hot the mileage should remain the same, the fact that VP44 trucks like to do their antics during winter is not the same thing. As for a heat shield, I have a temperature probe zip tied to the BHAF. It seems that if water freezes outside, there is basically no difference. As ambient rises, there starts to be a difference ranging from maybe 5-10* higher than ambient when ambient is 50-80F. 80*+ gets around 10-15* rise. Pulling a trailer will yield 5-10* higher than the unloaded readings, maybe even higher. EGT's and the BHAF temp correlate very closely with each other as the exhaust manifold seems to radiate a lot of heat which is seen in the BHAF temps. Consequently, pulling a trailer raises EGT's which in turn raises the BHAF intake temp. As for engine operation, I notice when temps get to 10 below my truck really flys. When it gets really hot, my truck is obviously not as happy. If I had to guess, I would say -10F produces 10 more HP than at 100F. I really don't think it is noticeable enough to make a note of and go out of your way to make intake temps as cold as possible. A 20* difference isn't going to make a difference big enough (or at all) to offset the cost of whatever you did to make them lower. I calculated it once and there is hardly any difference in the heat of compression when comparing even -10F to 100F, though the air at -10 is more dense so you get more air to burn the fuel in. Don't mistake that for why it won't start in the morning, the engine block is freezing and takes all that heat away..
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