Guys, once the weather breaks here, I'm gonna tear out the "zero clearance" or "pre-fab" metal box type fireplace in my house. My plans are it put a wood stove in its place. I've done the research and such on doing this. It involves taking the current fireplace chase (which is in the garage) totally out, as well as the existing fireplace chimney. I had though about using the existing chase in the garage, but it's actually gonna cost more in the long run because I'll need numerous double wall chimney pipe bends.........30* ones to follow the existing chase..............$$$$$$$So what I plan on doing, and this could change, is close up the wall where the fireplace was, frame it up, insulate it and put cement board in it's place so I can do some sort of tile or stone heat deflector behind where the stove will be. For the floor; and this depends on the stove you get, I place on building my own hearth out of layers of durock(cement board), and Micore 300(insulative product), with tile or stone over. Sound Kosher guys???:pray:As of now, I'm leaning towards these stoves.................Jotul F3CB, Jotul F400 Castine, Pacific Energy Alderlea T4, and Morso 2110. Is it better to "go bigger" than you think you need??? The wood I get around here, is usually "gnarly" and not real straight, so a tiny firebox would be a pain. But then again, I don't want to have the stove heat the stove room at 85*+ either. I'm scrounging up wood now as I type this, because these new EPA stoves require very dry seasoned wood to perform properly. I've scrounged up about a cord so far, and have about 1/2 cord in my shed, because I was concerned about using the POS fireplace this year. I've got a neighbor down the street that said I could get the rest of the trees in his yard........about another 2 cords.................it's ash, but it's free!!!:thumbup2:Any insite is appreciated!!!

Guys, once the weather breaks here, I'm gonna tear out the "zero clearance" or "pre-fab" metal box type fireplace in my house. My plans are it put a wood stove in its place. I've done the research and such on doing this. It involves taking the current fireplace chase (which is in the garage) totally out, as well as the existing fireplace chimney. I had though about using the existing chase in the garage, but it's actually gonna cost more in the long run because I'll need numerous double wall chimney pipe bends.........30* ones to follow the existing chase..............$$$$$$$ So what I plan on doing, and this could change, is close up the wall where the fireplace was, frame it up, insulate it and put cement board in it's place so I can do some sort of tile or stone heat deflector behind where the stove will be. For the floor; and this depends on the stove you get, I place on building my own hearth out of layers of durock(cement board), and Micore 300(insulative product), with tile or stone over. Sound Kosher guys??? As of now, I'm leaning towards these stoves.................Jotul F3CB, Jotul F400 Castine, Pacific Energy Alderlea T4, and Morso 2110. Is it better to "go bigger" than you think you need??? The wood I get around here, is usually "gnarly" and not real straight, so a tiny firebox would be a pain. But then again, I don't want to have the stove heat the stove room at 85*+ either. I'm scrounging up wood now as I type this, because these new EPA stoves require very dry seasoned wood to perform properly. I've scrounged up about a cord so far, and have about 1/2 cord in my shed, because I was concerned about using the POS fireplace this year. I've got a neighbor down the street that said I could get the rest of the trees in his yard........about another 2 cords.................it's ash, but it's free!!! Any insite is appreciated!!!

It may or may not help you any but in my opinion if you are going to uprgrade you would be better off getting a wood furnace instead of a new wood stove. Even with wood I had stored under roof for a little over 2 years I had issues with my EPA crap stove basiclly plugging up in the top of the stove and filling the house with smoke. It might not look as good but will definitely heat better if you use a furnace in its place. The ductwork isn't really a requirement either, just heats more like a wood stove then. As soon as I can afford to I'm ditching that POS EPA stove and putting in a furnace.

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As for stoves... Just buy a non EPA stove you'll be much happier. I've got a "Stove That Jack Built" its locally made right here in Idaho for about $1,400 bucks. All heavy duty gauge steel very heavy stove. No smog devices. But it burns very clean! Rarely do I see smoke from the chimey. I've got it down to a science on how many turns to open the air to get my pyrometer right at 800-1000*F constantly. Yes its a true pyrometer that has a probe that enters the stack not a surface thermometer.

All of the stoves I've listed are EPA approved, non-catalyst stoves. Wasn't clear on that prior.I've got a small house, so I cannot do a wood furnace. The room I'm putting it in is about 19x15'. and my house is a small ranch (1100sq.ft.). Not a real "open design" either, that's why I asked about stove size. I'd like to be in the room with the stove and not be forced out because it's too hot in the room.

Later on I'll have to take a pic of my guest house stove and put it on the site... Small fan force wood stove installed in the fireplace... I mean tiny house.

Better to get big enough or a little bigger because you'll want to be able to stuff enough wood to be able to burn most of the night.Me.... I'm in a natural habit of getting up at 3 am to fill it up again then back to bed. One thing about getting the house too hot is that it's a great benefit to be able to open the windows and refresh the inside air every once in awhile, without feeling like you're throwing money out.

Main house... This is a "Stove that Jack Built" size is a 1 1/2. Guest House... This is another "Stove that Jack Built" this is a custom 1 to fit the fireplace...My entire heating bill for 1 year of heat is $400-$500 bucks... That's it... Can't do that with propane, electricity, or natural gas...Here is 1 month of heat for me... Looks like a lot but only cost me about $40 buck to get...Nearly 12 cords of firewood... 1 winters worth of heat for 2 houses... ($400-$500 to fill the shed!)

Thanks for the pix Mike!!! The stoves I'm looking at look a fair bit different than yours. I'll see if I can get some pix or links for y'all!!! Thanks again!!

Holy crap thats alot of wood!!-Jordan-

Thanks for the pix Mike!!! The stoves I'm looking at look a fair bit different than yours. I'll see if I can get some pix or links for y'all!!! Thanks again!!

Could you post a link of what you looking at... Maybe a picture of what your working with... I'm at least curious...

Holy crap thats alot of wood!! -Jordan-

That's nothing...

"Wood" is Mikes middle name.

Ha ha ha sounds like a boxer's name Michael "Wood" Nelson!-Jordan-

Ha ha ha sounds like a boxer's name Michael "Wood" Nelson!

-Jordan-

That, and don't forget his "screaming beaver" also!!

--- Update to the previous post...

www.jotul.com/en-US/wwwjotulus/Main-menu/Products/Wood/Wood-stoves/Jotul-F-3-CB/

www.jotul.com/en-US/wwwjotulus/Main-menu/Products/Wood/Wood-stoves/Jotul-F-400-Castine/

www.pacificenergy.net/alderlea/t4.php

Here's a few links to a few I'm considering.

weed,

This is what I have (Tremont Wood Stove Insert.)

It is thermostatically controlled fans (2) and adjustable fan speed. I have a non-open-floorplan 2 story Cape Cod (2500sqft). Without the woodstove, My electric bill (heating) is about $350-450/mo. Using this, my electric bill drops to around $200/mo. I also installed ceiling fans (one in the same room, one in the Fourier.) This helps circulate the air, and will keep the downstairs at about 72-75*F with some good seasoned Oak. Upstairs will hover in the 70-72 range. The electric heater will kick on maybe 4 times a day, instead of the 15-20 times, as before.

I cut/pick up my own firewood from various locations, so all it costs me (usually) is fuel and time.

We have a queen size Blaze King that in NON EPA. With a nice bed of coals and then fill it up and turn it down and it will hold fire for over 24 hours. None of that getting up at night or restarting the fire in the morning. It has two fans that distribute the heat.I have a stove like "the stove that Jack built" in my shop. I can see why Mike goes through so much wood.

We have a queen size Blaze King that in NON EPA. With a nice bed of coals and then fill it up and turn it down and it will hold fire for over 24 hours. None of that getting up at night or restarting the fire in the morning. It has two fans that distribute the heat.

I have a stove like "the stove that Jack built" in my shop. I can see why Mike goes through so much wood.

BLAZE KING!!!!

If you can find a PRE-EPA blaze king, BUY IT! They don't brag about their woodstoves for nothin!

You might also try and look for a wood stove/insert that does not do a catalytic converter. They have some that are EPA approved that use, IIRC, a re-burner.

Instead of hasslin with all that remodel work to make your chimney work, I would look at just doing double-wall pipe in the chimney and out. That would keep cost down since you would not have to line the chimney. If it were me, I would just forget about the fireplace completely and put it independently.

Burning firewood is a whole-new beast! The luxury of burning wood and being able to cook yourself out of the house for pennies!

Also, if you want some automation from the wood stove, depending on what you get, give a barometric dampener a try.

I feel like this thread is gonna turn this place into Arboristsite!

As for the amount of wood...

well...

That is about 20 cords...

OH, almost forgot, if you did not know already, DO NOT do more than 2 90 degree bends in your piping. Restricts air flow way too much. If you can, do 2, 45 degree bends to make a 90 so the airflow is not choked.

I totally agree that corners in the pipe disrupt the flow. The best way is to go straight up through the roof. Saddly mine dosen't do that and I go out through the wall with tripple wall pipe into a cinder block chimmey with a liner.

I bought one of these from ChimneyHeaters.com . I installed and it works fine. Heats my 2000 square foot house. I have the pump connected to a UPS but I am not sure how long the pump will run if the electric goes out. I had it installed all winter and did not have to turn on my Electric heat once which saved me about 200 euro a month here in Romania.The Electric is not stable here so I had to rush to take out the fire a couple of times because the water pump had stopped and the pressure valves were going off. The UPS will solve that but I dont know how long a UPS will keep my central pump going. I will attach a pic of what chimney heaters are in case you are not familiar with them. The pump is a Grundfos and has three speeds.