Just wondering what everyones were on what is the best ujoint brand out there.

I know precision aint it. I let a friend replace the ujoints and carrier bearing in my 01 because I didnt have time and I swore he bent my drive shaft.

So I took it to drive line co. and they said faulty ujoints. I said your kidding me right?

I had never heard of it but he told me it happens more than you think.

Austin Drive Line used Moog at that time.

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I know precision aint it. I let a friend replace the ujoints and carrier bearing in my 01 because I didnt have time and I swore he bent my drive shaft.

So I took it to drive line co. and they said faulty ujoints. I said your kidding me right?

I had never heard of it but he told me it happens more than you think.

Austin Drive Line used Moog at that time.

Spicers

What ever NAPA sells that is cheap with a grease zerk.

Having worked at a shop for a few years that specialized in driveline components I have to say that the non greasable zerks are the best for a couple reasons, They tend to last longer and they are stronger because they do not have a weakened body of a grease galley drilled through the middle of them.Non greasable Spicers are the best in automotive applications hands down.

spicers:thumbup2:

I know precision aint it. I let a friend replace the ujoints and carrier bearing in my 01 because I didnt have time and I swore he bent my drive shaft.

So I took it to drive line co. and they said faulty ujoints. I said your kidding me right?

I had never heard of it but he told me it happens more than you think.

Austin Drive Line used Moog at that time.

- - - Updated - - -

I know precision aint it. I let a friend replace the ujoints and carrier bearing in my 01 because I didnt have time and I swore he bent my drive shaft.

So I took it to drive line co. and they said faulty ujoints. I said your kidding me right?

I had never heard of it but he told me it happens more than you think.

Austin Drive Line used Moog at that time.

I agree thats what made me ask. I have been buying the precisions at the local napa and I have warranted everyone ive done on my truck at least once. Yesterday I was redoing the one on the drivers side front axle because it had already gone out. The dumb thing doesnt get grease to every cap, two were well greased, one had a little in it and the other was bone dry. Then get this I started to put the brand new one in and realized that the hole for the grease zerk wasnt even tapped!!!

What ever NAPA sells that is cheap with a grease zerk.

That's what the shop installed when I had them do my axle U-joints TWICE!!!! Granted, that's prior to my recent install of the SpynTec free spin hub kit. I went to NAPA myself this time and told them what I needed and they gave me them prior to the SpynTec install. The little boxes they came in had the precision number on them, but the box also said MOOG on it. Are precision U-joints made by Moog??? Hopefully these will last much, much longer no turning all the time and being subject to that stress. I know for a fact that my "short wheel base" '04.5 turns way tighter than my '99 did...............as well as all 4x4 Furd pickups and my good buds '09 GMC 1500 4x4!!!!! Tight turns are tough on U-joints. A CV joint is much better suited for tight turns!! Time will tell!!! HiJack time.............2000 miles on the SpynTec's now!!! Running smooth, quiet and efficient!!

Are precision U-joints made by Moog???Man I hope not, and to make it worse if it is true shop put Moog in.

Are precision U-joints made by Moog??? Man I hope not, and to make it worse if it is true shop put Moog in.

Yes they are, About 90% is made by Moog, TRW,Precison,Master pro, basically any in house brand.... That's why if i do buy any thing on a budget i just buy the in house brand same quality as the $40-60 higher priced moog... not saying it's good quality but it'll work. When i worked in parts i warrented out so many Moog made parts it was unbelievable. Mainly u-joints, axle bearings and Hubs, I've never had issues with Spicers or Timkens.. Cost $$$ but worth it in the long run

like the saying goes..you get what you pay for..

Neapco are a quality U-Joint as well.

ive always stuck with SPICER's with NO grease nips, i do pop them open and add a dab more grease to them.the joints with grease nips are "weaker" but do fine on DD street rigs. I wheel mine so i have the heavy duty ones.

I use Spicers

I agree thats what made me ask. I have been buying the precisions at the local napa and I have warranted everyone ive done on my truck at least once. Yesterday I was redoing the one on the drivers side front axle because it had already gone out. The dumb thing doesnt get grease to every cap, two were well greased, one had a little in it and the other was bone dry. Then get this I started to put the brand new one in and realized that the hole for the grease zerk wasnt even tapped!!!

I priced the spicers when I was checking out Dynatrac ball joints, and they told me $90 bucks a pop...I`m still debating if I want to add those to my Spin tec project for next month:ahhh: Decisions Decisions!

I priced the spicers when I was checking out Dynatrac ball joints, and they told me $90 bucks a pop...I`m still debating if I want to add those to my Spin tec project for next month:ahhh: Decisions Decisions!

$90 a piece for spicer ujoints on front axle..??? i got my solid joints at advance auto for about $20 or so each and they are the heavy duty ones. look elsewhere yer getting shafted

Last Summer the rear universal joint went bad on the wife's truck. I removed the entire driveshaft assembly and took it to a local driveshaft shop and had ALL Spicer universal joints (non greasable type since they are MUCH stronger) and hanger bearing. The original OEM universal joint that failed was a Spicer universal joint that lasted nearly 150,000 miles. In my opinion, you won't go wrong with Spicer.

I am doing some research on this right now. What I am finding is, depite internet "facts", is that non-greasable are preferred. The non-greasable joints are stronger, and less prone to contaminant intrusion. A properly, and regularly, serviced greasable is not as prone to contamination, but most people don't service them enough. The big issue is strength, a solid piece of metal is stronger than one with a hole in it. Since most of use make a bit more power than stock and the u-joint handles all the power it's not a part you want to scrimp on. What I have found is OEM, AAM, axle joints are the best. The Spicers are a good unit, but have lots of fitment issues. For the drive shaft's OEM or Spicer is preferred.

I am doing some research on this right now. What I am finding is, depite internet "facts", is that non-greasable are preferred. The non-greasable joints are stronger, and less prone to contaminant intrusion. A properly, and regularly, serviced greasable is not as prone to contamination, but most people don't service them enough. The big issue is strength, a solid piece of metal is stronger than one with a hole in it. Since most of use make a bit more power than stock and the u-joint handles all the power it's not a part you want to scrimp on. What I have found is OEM, AAM, axle joints are the best. The Spicers are a good unit, but have lots of fitment issues. For the drive shaft's OEM or Spicer is preferred.

Not doubting you one bit here. I've read all the same about sealed u-joints being stronger and all..................but my OEM sealed units and then the 2 sets of greaseables all lasted pretty close to the same time and same miles!!!! I truly believe it's due to the over use of salt and other chemicals they use on the roads here in the "rust belt" in the winter, and the fact that 3rd gens turn tighter than 2nd gens and because I do a lot of slow speed backing of trailers where I work. As I said prior, a CV joint is much better for tight turns.........but could it handle Cummins low end torque???

The salt belt is just hard on everything. http://www.rcvperformance.com/product-details-axles.aspx?sku=CVJAAM-D2535