Well I've made it home for the summer and it's time to start tearing this thing apart. I will begin tomorrow, but yesterday I took it to the dyno. Laid down 503 / 1215. I was very pleased with the numbers, but the knocking is getting worse to it's time to take it apart.

 

Are you ever gonna get that windshield replaced??

54 minutes ago, trreed said:

Are you ever gonna get that windshield replaced??

That's a big fat negative. When they cooked the truck it cracked worse too  

You aged well Tyler, looks like you know what you're doing too... 

9 minutes ago, Dieselfuture said:

You aged well Tyler, looks like you know what you're doing too... 

Haha!! That's the man behind the paint job!

It was painted in his garage the first time, then done at the dealership he works for this time. He wasn't overly joyed about having to take a picture with it. He loves the truck though and takes extra care when working on it to make it as perfect as possible. 

I just can't believe how shiny it is. It's like looking in a blue mirror. 

Send me the wheels. K thanks.

Good to see pics!

 

1 hour ago, jlbayes said:

Send me the wheels. K thanks.

 

If you ask enough people, eventually someone will

What does a paint job like that cost, if you don't mind me asking? That way I can find the proper place on my dream list for it.

16 hours ago, notlimah said:

Good to see pics!

 

 

If you ask enough people, eventually someone will

 

LOL I have a buddy here that has a set. Just waiting to unload the new 20s I got.

On 2/22/2018 at 6:18 AM, jlbayes said:

 

This is why. Every vp 24v head is cast the same way. The valves are the next stop. Port size is pretty spot on in a 24v head for most applications.

I had no idea it was a good idea to use never seize on head studs. So it is?

15 hours ago, dripley said:

What does a paint job like that cost, if you don't mind me asking? That way I can find the proper place on my dream list for it.

Labor is about $300 per panel, assuming no major dents that will take significant time to fix. 

From there you have paint (expensive), consumables (tape, paper, bondo, two sided tape, etc)

Then you have the time to remove and reinstall all trim / moldings, mirrors, lights, antenna, etc. I think a full paint job was 5 to 6K IIRC. Mine was significantly less, but I got the friend discount. 

 

7 minutes ago, crf450ish said:

I had no idea it was a good idea to use never seize on head studs. So it is?

That's likely ARP's lube....

Edited March 28, 20187 yr by TFaoro

33 minutes ago, crf450ish said:

I had no idea it was a good idea to use never seize on head studs. So it is?

 

25 minutes ago, TFaoro said:

That's likely ARP's lube....

 

Moly lube actually, without the fancy arp name on the bottle. lol

2 hours ago, crf450ish said:

I had no idea it was a good idea to use never seize on head studs. So it is?

I used arp stuff on threads because I had it, and on the rest of stud I used antiseeze to keep corrosion to a minimum. Not sure if it will help, but some of the studs I pulled out had some surface rust on them.

Interesting. Never heard of lubricant being used on internal fasteners within an engine. I do put a very light film of anti seize on the very end portion of lug nuts where they mate to the rim. As to avoid torque loss due to friction between the lug nut and rim, I never lube the threads though. I learned allot about torque loss working in refineries tightening flanges. BP and SHELL require anti seize on the studs, or bolts, both sides of the washer and just everywhere. Its a mess, but the engineers involved in investigations in refinery mishaps have found that poorly torqued flanges, due to friction, have allowed leakage of hydrocarbons. Bad Bad Bad. I simply applied the same principal at home when working on my stuff. But never lube the threads on lug nuts. 

Edited March 28, 20187 yr by crf450ish

2 minutes ago, crf450ish said:

BP and SHELL require anti seize on the studs, or bolts, both sides of the washer and just everywhere. Its a mess, but the engineers involved in investigations in refinery mishaps have found that poorly torqued flanges, due to friction, have allowed leakage of hydrocarbons.

That's the exact reason for lubing studs.  Not the leaking hydrocarbons part, but to get an accurate torque on the nut.  

19 minutes ago, trreed said:

That's the exact reason for lubing studs.  Not the leaking hydrocarbons part, but to get an accurate torque on the nut.  

I will use a thin film of copper anti seize then. The copper stuff is more resistant to heat. Not that it matters much in a cummins engine thats in good repair. 

 

EDIT: hey @TFaoro....U got any decent videos of your rig showcasing its power? 

Edited March 28, 20187 yr by crf450ish

On 3/28/2018 at 11:05 AM, crf450ish said:

I will use a thin film of copper anti seize then. The copper stuff is more resistant to heat. Not that it matters much in a cummins engine thats in good repair. 

 

EDIT: hey @TFaoro....U got any decent videos of your rig showcasing its power? 

No.... I try to keep my foot out of it haha. If I send it with full power it'll likely blow the trans to pieces.

On 3/29/2018 at 11:02 AM, TFaoro said:

No.... I try to keep my foot out of it haha. If I send it with full power it'll likely blow the trans to pieces.

Well....seems like the next project is to swap in an eaton Heavy duty 13 speed. Similar to that of the one my old man has in his 06' Kenworth T600. Regularly hauls 100K LB loads from Seattle to Billings montana. CAT C15 pushing 625hp to the ground and god knows how much torque..... I'm here to tell you right now, if you did swap in an eaton semi tranny into your truck, I would fly down to CO and pay you to take me for ride in it at full power 

Edited March 31, 20187 yr by crf450ish

3 minutes ago, crf450ish said:

pay you to take me for ride in it at full power 

It will be a slow go ha ha, but maybe you can pull some stomps out for your naighbors.