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Cowboy

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Cowboy last won the day on August 12 2017

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    12 days north of hopeless, and a few degrees south of freezing to death. (SE MO)

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  1. I bought it as a rcsb. Yours must be a blast to drive being 4x4 I bet theirs not much on the street that can touch it.
  2. That is correct, do you know if they’re are any adapting options for that? Or are you stuck not using it?
  3. The easy way is to buy a manual valve body kit from Transco, it’s gonna include the new valves and springs you need to both convert your trans to full manual as well as bump your pressures up to help your trans hold power.
  4. Howdy guys, it’s been some time since I was at all active online, but hopped on to see what was new and figured I’d let y’all know my current project. About a year ago I bought the shawty, it’s a 1995 rcsb. did the basic round of mods, maxed 180 pump, injectors, a s362, and a transmission that could hold it. Did 540hp on that setup that setup was a blast to daily drive, but I wanted to play with something new, so I decided to common rail swap it with some pretty good size wirly boiz all this was done in a rush to try and make it to the ATS gauntlet challenge, first fire was a week before the competition. I am glad to say we made it there! Overall made way more power than I was expecting to, I was 30hp away from the winner of my class at 1061hp. I found out later my boost controller was defective so it was fully opening the gate by 35psi so it wasn’t quite ideal, and put me down on power. I’m still tinkering on it, trying to squeeze a little more out of it, but hope to be above 1200 by the next time Northwest Dyno Circuit has another competition. Ive been dailying this thing to work every day, and can confirm it is a blast to drive. IMG_1593.MOV
  5. are you sure you're not lugging the engine down a little and then applying throttle? On mine, below 600 RPM the governor arm will slide under the AFC foot and allow full fuel, and will get stuck there for a second until the RPM's rise. Nothing unsafe or scary about it but it does belch out smoke unintentionally.
  6. 300 can be had with the stock turbo easily. Honestly, a little pump tuning on a stock engine will just about do it. and honest 350hp is all the stocker is good for, that he351 will help take it to the 400-425hp area. The HE351 didn't seem to have as much scooch below 1600 as the HX35, but after 1700 RPM it's pretty wicked. The swap can be done pretty easily, just drill out the 2 threaded holes in the exhaust flange, a downpipe adapter, and then a 2.75" to 3" 45° boot for the intake. You will have to pull the housings off so you can remove the alignment pins out so you can clock the housings.
  7. This is how they're plumbed. And this is kinda a crude drawing of the advantage of compounds. Red is a small turbo, Blue is a large turbo, and purple are compounds. You can see that the compounds don't spool quite as well as the secondary (small turbo) and don't flow quite as well as the primary (large turbo), but the broad RPM band and being able to keep the turbos in there efficiency range is the advantage.
  8. OK Fine, yall get a Mopar1973Man exclusive... Don't tell all the girls where I've been hiding...
  9. I've always used the chart from http://www.innovativebalancing.com I've done a couple dozen with the .177 BB's you get from walmart and don't have any complaints.
  10. 17-22 psi idling, 25-35 psi @ 2500 RPM no load is the spec. I got mine at 35-40psi because it gives me the warm and fuzzies.
  11. These diesels can rattle a house down. The pins job is to keep the timing case 'centered' on the block, due to the injection pump and vacuum pump being bolted to the case, if it shifts, the gears will no longer be in alignment with the cam gear which drives them. Because of all the weight hanging off the case with a 50lb injection pump and the engine vibration, it's not unlikely. The handful of bolts holding the timing case to the block are also known for backing off due to engine vibration. So it's a good idea to take them out one by one and red locktite them.
  12. I'd get a new pin, It keeps all the gears aligned properly. '95's came stock with vacuum boost brakes. The connection should be here.
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