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Blue pill please, as long as it is not a suppository(probably is since that's the only way the government knows how). Raw milk is good. I have had it countless times in my cereal. I also like pasturization. It takes care of one problem but creates another. Seems that happens with everything. My sister who works at a hospital lab always tells me I have a good immune system because of working on the farm. And those people who are not exposed to germs and bacteria don't have their immune system built up. So they would have a higher a chance than me of getting sick from raw milk. I work between two farms. On the main one I milk cows and I prep them for milking. No matter much you try you will never get them totally clean. The BC of the bulk tank is normally under 10,000 with a limit of 100,000. Some times you can go for a couple weeks with no units getting kicked off and then it can 5 times in a milking. That is when we see a spike in the tank. As for bacteria in the udder. What about mastitis and SCC counts. A cow will always have a SCC count which means she's fighting off infections. We average around 100-150k SCC. Last week we had a cow with a 5.6 million cell count with no visible signs of mastitis. She is currently treated and the milk is thrown out. She has always been high but not this high. The milk company is very good about paying for tests on samples we send with the route driver. We work very hard to get the cell count down. They want low SCC/BC milk with good components for their cheese and we do too because it affects the premiums. Now they(cheese plant) have self-imposed SCC limit of 400k even though the state is at 750k. This way they can sell to Europe, where the limit is 400 and get $75 a pound for some their specialty cheese's. So I think raw milk is fine for those people who have healthly immune systems. A number of years ago I was in St Louis for a PAS(Post secondary Agriculture Students)conference and someone in the hotel lobby asked about the conference. I was with a couple classmates and not far in too it they asked "what do you do with the antibiotic milk?" Shawn replied with "we give it to the innercity kids, they need all the help they can get." They believed it before we told them the truth. Also kind of off subject I do not know why people have such a stigma about 2% or whole milk being too fatty. Think about it, it is 98% fat free .

Moparmom: "He gets the whole damn desk and I'm left with the pull out drawer to put my computer on, its unbelievable!"

Here is a write-up I did on it. Total capacity is 7.4 gallons, so if your flushing you need 3.7 gallons of G05. If your just draining and filling you only need about 2-2.5 gallons of G05. I can't think of any sender that would be by the motor mount. By right side I am assuming passenger side? http://forum.mopar1973man.com/threads/1301-Coolant-Flush-on-a-3rd-Gen?highlight=

Fire Station 1 - Pinehurst - My Home station with Engine 1 the cracker box and my 1 ton Chevy 6.5L diesel brush truck. I know this is the wrong picture but close enough. Firewood harvesting. Some years I get lucky to sell some firewood for some extra funds. One of my favorite fire trucks is the 2 1/2 ton military trucks. This one happens to be 1000 gallon water tender for up at station 2. Man that is one fun truck to drive even off road. Another pic of firewood gather from last summer... Pic of Engine 11 back on the Poe Cabin fire looking north from White Water Wilderness. Then the office where all web site work is done...

It's funny you happen to say that. I'll repeat again... I've never been to school for diesel engines and I'm not ASE certified. So why am I so knowledgeable? Because of reading and listening to all the different tales of people nation wide fixing there trucks. They admit their mistakes and what they manage to fix. Then there is wonderful people like ISX, wild and Free and other that push it that extra step and throw even more technical information into the pot. More or less keep asking questions and we'll keep trying to find answers.

Not that I am aware of, I usually just park mine so the front end is down hill filler up with distilled water run it for a minute and drain it through the radiator petcock, On the CR I find it best to pop off the rear heater hose at the block while filling to purge the air from the block otherwise it takes forever to refill and trying to burp it never seems to work on the Cr for some reason. Never had this issue on my 02 24v.

You have got plenty, I think when I have done mine a couple times 4ish gallons was about what it took.

If you have not heard of or read Joel Skousens book "Strategic Relocation" I would recommend it. It is what I keep on my coffee table and it is a very popular read when people see it. Makes me glad I live in ND, the oil boom is bringing in folks from all over the nation who are causing some disturbances, there have been a couple of killings here and they are out of staters killing each other in the oil patch. The Latest killer was from Idaho. Here is another article that just came out too. http://www.shtfplan.com/headline-news/americas-death-zones-where-not-to-be-when-it-hits-the-fan_04042013 Here is a site I have in my favorites list and look at for the articles which are good at times, the discussion afterwards usually pisses me off as it is seems to be an extreme Liberal leftist Al Gore duped mentality site. http://www.off-grid.net/ http-~~-//www.youtube.com/watch?feature=player_embedded&v=jzjm9MJFSA8 http-~~-//www.youtube.com/watch?feature=player_embedded&v=SKtCt8Skvw4

That is not true. I am not sure but I believe the alloys came out in '00 but even if they didn't mine is an '01 without rear discs and was bought new with alloys. They will not fit earlier models without shaving off the drums although they will fit 1st Gens with no issue. I sold a set to a feller with one and we made sure they fit before he left. Not sure when the change occurred to the larger drums but I would bet it likely was when the 2nd Gens came out.

The OP asked if he should get a 6.7. As an actual owner of a 6.7 and an owner of a 5.9, I can tell you I prefer the 6.7. The #1 reason I prefer it is that the exhaust brake works great with the automatic transmission. #2 The automatic transmission has an extra gear over the 48re. #3. The 6.7 gets better mileage than my 05 or 06 when towing.The 2007.5 had soot problems that caused issues with the turbo and dpf. These issues were fixed a long time ago. As a comparison, a second gen has vp44 problems that have never been solved, the 47re is junk and some people love these trucks. The 06 and 07 5.9 are prone to catastrophic failures. Wrist pins, melted pistons, whatever. These motors melt down without warning in unmodified trucks and there are some people who think these are the greatest trucks ever made. The truth is each year truck has some challenges. Some of these challenges we deal with. Some we call Mike for and others we post about. These challenges are probably the main reason each of us found this site. As I see it, the OP want's to know if a newer truck will be easier to live with than his older one. Will it get better mileage, will it make him jump higher, or will it make him more attractive to women. The answers are pretty clear. The 6.7 gets better mileage when everything is deleted. It is unlikely he will delete a brand new truck so the mileage will suffer.The new truck will have a newer suspension and tires so he may jump higher and it is a known fact that women love new diesel trucks so they will definitely find him more attractive.

She said they get 2-4 hours if they're lucky! She also is having a hard time figuring out how anybody gets past having more than one child! My mom retorts, "Cause they forgot what the 1st was like!" He is defiitely an intersting kid already. Makes tons of funny faces and can't seem to rid his hands from his face!

Got some awesome info from Daniel Sterling.....they seem like stand up guys... i totally agree with them on aftermarket housing quality ... plz read entire post... lots of good info here... Put in a set of the '99-'01 Dodge Ram 1500 Sport headlamps, which are *much* better than the lamps all non-Sport '94-'02 style Rams got. The Sport lamps use two bulbs per side (a 9007 high/low and a 9004 high-only) and produce much more effective, longer and wider, better focused beam patterns. They physically fit right in, but require some wiring adaptation, which is just as well since the factory wiring tends to starve the bulbs. You need: -a set (left and right) of the '99-'01 Dodge Ram 1500 Sport headlamps. Get the real ones from the dealer or www.chryslerpartsdirect.com , not the Taiwanese knockoffs from eBay or elsewhere on the internet; the low price of the aftermarket units is attractive, of course, but despite "OEM quality" and "DOT/SAE approved" claims, they are junk (more info below). Factory part numbers are as follows: Headlamp, left: 55077 025AC Headlamp, right: 55077 024AC Park/turn lamp, left: 55077 033AC Park/turn lamp, right: 55077 032AC The original park/turn lamps can be used with the new headlamps; I've listed the Sport type park/turn units because their clear-lens design matches that of the Sport headlamps. Also note that the above numbers may from time to time be updated or superseded as noted when you do a part number search on chryslerpartsdirect.com or realmopar.com - go ahead and buy whatever the latest part number is. -A Dodge Ram conversion wiring and relay installation package RIK-RAM, $79 here. The installation package includes all necessary plugs, sockets, terminals, fused fuseholders, relays, relay brackets, terminal blocks, etc. -- everything except actual wire -- to install the new headlamps _and_ eliminate the voltage drop present in the factory-type wiring. You supply your own wire and use the parts from the kit to build up your own wiring harness. Specific instructions are provided, and the concept is explained athttp://www.danielsternlighting.com/tech/relays/relays.html .Parts are specially made premium-grade items (e.g. ceramic headlamp sockets) that accept large-gauge wire; this is not the "consumer grade" junk you can find at the parts store. Or, I can have my harness builder custom build you a ready-to-install harness assembly using the same components. Cost for this option is $161.44 (including parts and labour - you pick _either_ the relay kit _or_ the custom-built harness. It costs more than the chintzy and unreliable $30 to $50 Chinese prefab harnesses because it is not a Chinese prefab harness). Either way, the in-cab switches continue working normally, and you will not need to cut or otherwise disturb any of the vehicle's original wires. And either method will work fine on a dual-battery Ram. -A set (two 9007 and two 9004) of ultra high efficacy bulbs. The best 9007 bulbs presently on the market are the Philips Xtreme Power items: http://www.amazon.com/dp/B00480N16S/ or the GE Night Hawk Platinums: http://www.amazon.com/dp/B002UX7I9G The best 9004 bulbs presently on the market are the GE Night Hawk Platnium 9004NHP: http://www.amazon.com/dp/B002UX7I9G Do not buy blue or "extra white" bulbs (Silver Star, Crystal Vision, TruView, Hoen, PIAA, etc.); despite the heavy advertising push and claims of "brighter and whiter" light, they actually produce _less_ light due to the blue glass they use. More info on original vs. aftermarket lamps: All of the aftermarket lamps, whether they're original-looking or restyled, are trash. The low price is attractive, but the quality, performance, and durability are all substantially and dangerously inferior to the genuine items. This goes for all the many brands of aftermarket lamp—TYC, Genera, Depo, DJAuto, ScanTech, and many other brands (and unbrands) of original-looking and restyled lamps, not to mention the newest wave of trash coming in from China under names like Helix and Sonar (projector headlamp conversions, clear-lens conversions, angel eyes, LED lines, etc...every bit of it dangerously badly made). There is no optical engineering behind any of these; they are headlamp-shaped toys made from physical copies of the originals, which is not even close to adequate. One might as well make a mould of your eyeglasses lenses and expect to be able to cast new working eyeglass lenses from the mould. The level of shape precision required to accurately focus the beam can only be achieved with optical engineering _from scratch_. Copies don't even begin to get in the ballpark. Light distribution is way, way out of line with what it should be. Usually the DOT and/or ECE safety approval or certification marks are fraudulent or counterfeit. "Perfect OE fit and performance" is often promised in the ads for the copycat lamps. This is an out-and-out lie. Take a look at http://www.capacertified.org/press/CAPALighting3.pdf , which is the report on a large government-sponsored test of OE vs. TYC and Depo versions of simple, cheap American-vehicle headlamps. Even though TYC is widely regarded as the least-awful of a pathetic bunch, still a complete failure by the TYC & Depo units (see page 21 and 30 if you don't have time to read the whole report). There is only one proper operational setup for the Sport lamps, and that is as follows: Low beam mode: Low beam filament of outboard 9007 bulb on, all other filaments off. Got some great info from Dan sterling High beam mode: High beam filament of outboard 9007 and high beam filament of inboard 9004 on, all other filaments off. The low beam filament of the inboard 9004 is not used -- these lamps do not have optics to focus the light from it. In NO case are the low beam and high beam filaments on together! Two-filament headlight bulbs are pressurized to about 10 atmospheres COLD. They are not designed to handle the heat (or the current on the common filament support lead) of running both filaments at the same time for more than very brief periods during beam changeover or headlight flashing. Doing so carries the very real risk of the bulb grenading inside the headlamp, destroying it (and holding the beam selector switch to run both at the same time will cook your wiring and switches). Some people who think they're clever wire it up this way anyhow, and the "Brite Box" people have made a business out of this "clever" (not) modification.

Heck I've been using 2 cycle oil since 85K miles on the clock. I'm, now at 211K miles and still ticking on the same VP44. According to my records I started my 2 cycle oil theory back in July of 2006. That's 7 years of 2 cycle oil and ZERO VP44 issues and ZERO gelling issues to date...