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You can use 6th gear but I wouldn't suggest climbing grade with it. Make sure you don't lug in a high gear it does put a lot of stress on bearings and such. 6 Speed in 6th Gear is 0.73:1 ratio 5 speed in 5th gear is 0.75:1 ratio 6 Speed in 5th Gear is 1:1 ratio 5 speed in 4th gear is 1:1 ratio Not much difference...

There is also wheel bearing cost savings, and u-joint savings. But $$ isn't the real reason to do it, it's the better steering, bearings, and 2Lo.

You should do a write up. At least the spin off issues not normally considered. Like...did you have to get a 6 speed ECM? What it cost. Parts required. What you learned along the way.

Thanks, Ed. I'm going to try and make this swap as painless as possible as I know the more I try and simplify it the more I could complicate it.

It really does make a difference. I would consider going out first and weighting the truck and trailer and then get the proper bars for said weight. You can figure tongue weight from truck alone (rear axle weight) and truck and trailer (truck rear axle weight) just subtract the two and you should get the tongue weight.

The kit I've got is the Cummins vacuum pump rebuild kit and its only $13 bucks. Now to get time...

The VE will not bolt directly to the 2nd gen manifold without machine work. There is an Ebay adapter that will allow fitting, but in 4WD models you will have shock bolt issues. 3rd gen manifolds will work & provide enough for 450-500 HP on a Common rail 6.7, so I doubt you will have backpressure issues. Get the downpipe for it if going this route & oil feed & return lines will have to be modded or replaced. The sound is from the turbo, not the manifold. Ed

Either or, but I must say I thought his mom was hot........

I did the brite box from geno's. it's pretty good but think I would have rather done the sport light, money just wasn;t there.

The only time I would consider 10w-30 would be in the winter time. Trying to find diesel CI-4 or CJ-4 oils locally in other than 15w-40 is nearly impossible.

Oil will pick up condensation, especially short trips stop and start. Synthetic is for those that run at least 15,000 per year. Leaking? I had a differential repair shop back In the day of leather axle seals. Amsoil would disappear in a flash. I fully advised against it back then. A great semi-synthetic that will run 4 times delo 400 is Schaffer. Reasonable price for a synthetic. Lots of fleets use it.

Little secret there is quite of bit of air that slips through the gap of the hood. I tend to see more rain and such from the hood gap than the underside of the truck. Not unless your a big puddle jumper then you might see more of splash problem.

More for anti-splash than heat And, Thank you!!!

Looks good!! That filter will last over 100,000 miles. For the price you can't go wrong with it!

BHAF you can't go wrong but the heat shield as ISX has proven isn't really needed being the air filter temperature is about 2-5*F over outside temperature while driving. Idling of course it with rise but no big hurt while idling. I will admit the heat shield is impressive...

Could you please post your AC voltage. A lot of people assume a much higher number than what it should be. Normal: 0.01 to 0.05 VAC Failure: > 0.1 VAC

The only reason I really switched to the synthetic was because the dino oil wouldn't flow in -60 degree weather up in North Dakota. It would literally take more than 5 minutes to build 40 psi on my mechanical gauge. I think I will be switching back to dino oil now that I live in Missoula and wont have to deal with much under 0 for the most part.

The only bonus is deep cycle batteries have a slightly deeper sump for lead sulphation to pile up in the bottom. But if you properly maintaining your batteries you'll clear 10 years on the cheap no-name batteries.

Thing is I don't see (personally) any reason for synthetic oils in these trucks. When there is members like CajFlynn putting over million miles on a truck on dino oil. Then flip the page and watch Dorkweed run 84k miles on a single oil change with WalMart oil. (Blackstone tested every 7k miles). So with these two members you can learn a lot...

I saw a 4 different fuel pins in another post. Can you elaborate on the pin you used? How does the BD pin stack up? Who else supplys them?

Here what I can tell you. 3200 Governor spring BHAF Straight pipe 4" Custom cut fuel pin HX35W turbo Is worth about 224/571... http://forum.mopar1973man.com/index.php?/topic/4622-relentless70-dyno-run/

Read my post right above yours.

Dave, the adjustment is on the top of the gear box. Make sure you shut the truck off to adjust it (for safety's sake). I don't know about the DSS for a two wheel drive, but I know they make one. Another problem to consider is these trucks have a large span of numbers to be "with in spec" for alignment. I have had mine aligned four times in one year just trying to get somebody who knows how to align these trucks. The last place I went got it close, but I wound up straightening the steering wheel and also put a touch more caster in the left side so it would quit pulling to the right. It does drive better, but not as good as it could. I have not been able to get the numbers that the two wheel drives need to drive good. I do know that most shops don't put enough caster in to hold the road good.

I have a little steering slop as well. When you guys say you adjusted the steering box, you tightened it up I am assuming? How do you know how far to adjust it?

4 months and they fell apart....:confused:Did you at least let Rock Auto know about this? I realize they are cheap, but that's not the point....JR