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Showing content with the highest reputation on 04/24/2017 in all areas

  1. ccd bus means the overhead cannot read any incoming CCd message. If hte cluster doesn't show it then it is likely a wiring issue in the overhead.
  2. Yes, you can. I have had mine wired with a manual momentary toggle switch since the truck was new. It is simple to do and works very well. Since your truck is an 02, you should be able to use the attached wiring diagram. Find the two relays that control the intake heaters. They are located just below the driver's side battery and power distribution center. You will see the two relays side by side, each with two small gauge wires and push-on connectors. One wire on each relay comes from the ECM (12 volts when commanded) and the other wire on each relay goes to ground. Remove the two wires from the ECM side of the relay and protect them from the elements (the wires will no longer be needed). The wire colors (according to the diagram) are orange with a black tracer and yellow with a black tracer. Sometimes colors differ slightly. From an un-switched 12 volt source add a fuse, a momentary switch (your choice of location), and enough light gauge wiring to complete the job. The wiring and the switch will only need to handle less than 150 milliamps of current. Coming from your switch, connect to each exposed terminal of each intake heater relay The terminal posts are threaded, so you will need to provide a nut with the proper thread pitch for a secure connection. Codes P0380 and P0382 will be set, but should not activated the CEL. - John
  3. I think once the sump is in place it'll stay there. I believe I've seen a video of one being drug all over while still being attached to an actual tank and it held fine. The bigger concern imo is the fuel lines getting ripped off or torn.
  4. Thats the set up I have. Working fine now for near 7 years. Same fuel basket also. That was the only good thing that came from the in tank pump Dodge blessed me with 10 or 12 years ago. I did put a spring clamp at part 2 and 3. Think it came with it.
  5. True. There are a safety and legal issues with sumps. Bottom draw is illegal. For me, all I'd have to do is drive over a log or rock and that sump would vanish and so would the fuel in my tank. I do go offroad quite a bit. As for the draw straw I've got one of the old ones from way back in 2006 and no issues to report and can run well below 1/4 tank without a single problem. Most draw straw issue come from people cutting the tip wrong and way too short. Take notice its a straight cut, lightly notched (less than a 1/16"), the total gap to the tank is the thickness of one quarter coin with empty tank. Do not do this will a full tank the gap will be wrong. The tank will naturally deflect away from the draw straw as you fill the tank as it empty it will pull up tighter to the straw again because of less weight of fuel being present.
  6. If it's so good why don't any auto or truck manufacture install them? Because there not legal.
  7. That looks like a typical aftermarket setup for fuel basket, although I don't know Airdog/raptors quality in regards to that. I'd 100% trust a fuel module from Eric @Vulcan but fwiw, it looks identical to the one you already have so again, really just a matter of quality one way or another.
  8. Asked him and he said that he doesn't drill any holes in the input shaft but does drill holes for added flow/lube, just not directly into the shaft. He also stated that stock stall speeds are roughly 2000rpm, maybe slightly higher, and that for a stock truck up to my future turbo (62/65/12) he recommends going with a 'slight lower then stock' converter and said it should fall roughly around 1750ish-rpm. Anything bigger and he recommended closer to stock stall speed. I'm also going to have him install a Goerend flex plate which is says is typically needed around the 500hp range.
  9. Find the trigger wires from the ecm. Intercept and run to a toggle.
  10. ^agreed. Check the connector at the overhead console.
  11. Guess I should've asked the most obvious question.... is the tank full? Any chance your getting air in the lines causing the drop? @JAG1 that sounds like a return spring/ball issue. Saw something similar on my FASS so assuming your 150 has a return spring/ball, I'd check there.
  12. Mine is the Rapter 150 installed new two weeks ago. Mine is doing something similar only it's always above 14 but jumps to almost 25 psi when accelerating. I want the idle pressure for a VP truck to go no higher than 18-19. So I called them and they sent me a new 150 which I got in 4 days. They want me to send back, in their return package, the one that's acting up. You really need a pressure gauge in the cab. Staying above 14 is important to not cause wear to the injection pump. Idle or THE highest pressure should be no MORE than 18-19. A lot of guys install the big line kit from Eric so when hauling heavy on the hills the psi won't drop below 14. Best to see around 15 at lowest. You should also remove the inlet screen on the pump and install a pre filter so clogs won't ruin the flow if clogs develope in that tiny screen. I don't know what Pur flow is thinking with that screen in there. That's a ruin injection pump just waiting. Matt is right about the tank vent, it's right down there where all the dirt flies up and can get clogged it's always vacuuming a tiny bit of dirt into the tank. I routed mine up high with a easy flow inline gas filter on the end of extended tubing. You can make your fuel cap vented too in an emergency by drilling holes but try running without the cap and see.
  13. Something possibly off in the plumbing. Did you use a big line kit? How's the return plumbing routed? Might also check for pinched fuel line, or possibly your tank is having issues venting. Sorry I know that's a lot of random stuff but just the first things that came to mind. I've never experienced this so I don't have a more direct route for you to check. Maybe someone else will and can chime in.
  14. Check to see if your box has a jumper installed in the pins like the ones circle in the picture below. 98.5-00 trucks should not have a jumper, 01-02 trucks should have it, to make the boost read right
  15. I got a retro sound radio for my truck. It looks like it could be OEM but it has all of the new stuff like bluetooth and aux/usb ports. It is very nice quality wise as well but you pay for that quality. My biggest complaint is that it doesn't connect to the dimmer wire and the bright mode is too bright at night but the dim mode is not quite bright enough if the sun is shining right on it on a nice day.
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