Leaderboard

This is a tech article regarding those who (like me) think the oem spot for the apps is not ideal. Exposed to outside elements, heat, vibration and potential corrosion, moving it inside was most practical. Non Dodge/ midrange applications of Cummins 5.9 24V ISB’s all have their TPS/APPS inside the cab, mounted on the pedal assembly. So nothing is changing on the apps operation, just moving it. This mod does not works on trucks that are auto/use vacuum for cruise. The auto trans kickdown cable is attached to the bellcrank assembly. As with the vacuum solenoid setup too so if you can live without them then it will work. Parts needed: 699-5101 pedal assembly (2x) 6 pin Duetsch connectors kits Zip ties Grommet 6’ of 6 wire harness Tools needed: Duetsch connector terminal pliers Wire strippers Making the mount will be up to you. I can show you pictures on how I made mine but it’s just a one off. Either way you need to mount it inside. First, disconnect the 6 pin Duetsch connector from the apps, remove the bellcrank assembly from the cylinder head. Cut off the cable and discard. The oem pedal assembly will need to be removed and the oem mount has a pivot pin on the bottom that’ll twist out with some channel lock pliers. Once you mount your new pedal to the mount and it’s installed all that is needed is how to control via ecm. So a 6 wire jumper harness is needed. I would HIGHLY recommend removing and tossing the apps that comes supplied with the new pedal and install your current one in its place. I can’t guarantee its quality. If you need an apps, a Williams Control 131973 or 133284 will work perfectly (Timbo is just a repackaged WC). Available from any oem truck dealer (I.e. Kenworth or Freightliner). On your engine side of your harness you need to make a 6 pin male Duetsch connector. Ensure you new connector kits have the locks in them, some kits do not come with them for some reason. YouTube or Google can provide a video on how to use Duetsch connector pliers, they’re super easy to use. Using the hole in firewall that the original pull cable went through install a grommet to prevent rubbing and feed your harness through. If you prefer to drill a hole the same size of the connector body you’ll need a 7/8” drill bit. **It’s easier to make the harness, THEN crimp the new terminals on after feeding it through the oem firewall hole for a cleaner look.** Cut your 6 wire harness to length and crimp on the terminals, install the connector body and plug it in. Theoretically the engine doesn’t know where the apps is so it will work. Make sure you mate up each wire in its proper spot on each connector, if you mess them up a CEL will come on/non functionality of the apps. Secure the harness to various points with zip ties so it’s rigid. This provides a clean look and more room in the engine compartment for future servicing. Start the engine and test. Throttle response should be crisp since there is no cable anymore that has slack as it wore.

Alternator and PCM protection What I'm going to describe is a rare event. This is possible with any alternator stock ND or Bosch or even the aftermarket alternators that are bigger amperage output. In a nutshell, at any point, the blue field lead happens to short to ground the entire short is routed back through the PCM. Since the PCM is protected by a shared fuse of 20 amps this means the circuit board fails during these events. There have been two cases of this which is @pepsi71ocean and myself with the same failure. The only difference is mine failed so badly that it burned a hole through the PCM circuit board making the PCM unrepairable. I was forced to replace the PCM completely. Diagnostics You want to start the engine and check the blue for +12V. This +12V power should be present with the engine running. It's tested by using a DVM or test light. If power is not present then the PCM is damaged. The green wire will show a good ground more than likely but this will not work is there is no +12V to the field. This is where you make use of the article for ECM /PCM rebuilders. Make sure to test the alternator and replace it as well. The Modification This is based on the W-T ground wire mod. Being the field lead is powered from the PCM and the PCM, ECM and VP44 all share the same 20 amp fuse in slot G of the PDC. This fuse is too large to protect the PCM from a field wire short. This means you would have to purchase a fuse holder and solder in a fuse holder on the blue wire. With the PCM connectors removed from the PCM look at the connector towards the fender, this is connector C3. Pin 25 is the blue wire you can ohm test from end to end to be sure the wire is not broken. Then ohm between the blue wire and ground to verify its not shorted to ground still. Now take the tape near the loom and unwind it. This will give you about another 1 inch of wire. About 2 inches from the loom cut the blue wire. This should give you like 6 inches from the plug end and then a kind of stubby 2-inch wire on the loom end. Now solder in the fuse holder and use shrink tubing over your solder joints. With a bit of neat folding of the wire you should be able to loom the fuse holder into the loom again. I know that @IBMobile did the load testing of the field lead and suggests a 7.5 amp fuse. I'm going to do the testing with a 5 amp fuse. As for protection of the alternator on the charge lead, I opted to purchase a resetable 150 amp breaker. I know the factory alternator fuse was 140 amps. I know that the alternator will not produce more than 135 amps of charging current. I know the breaker is not there for protection the alternator for excessive charge current. The breaker is there just in case there is a dead short on the diode pack. If the short was good enough it could light that 6 gauge cable on fire. So having an exact 140 amp breaker is not required. The other thing I was reading up on was the breakers tend to trip prematurely because of underhood temperatures. I wanted to be just that little bit bigger that it does not trip the breaker because the alternator is already at full current charging on a hot day like jump starting another vehicle. Fallout, External Regulator users As for all you as fallout from this problem you typically were doing the external voltage regulator because of the PCM failure. I'm going to suggest that you consider doing the PCM repair and doing this mod and getting away from the external voltage regulator.

Ok I know several members have done this mod and said it was easy. It sure is easy. It takes about 2 hours from start to finish to complete this project. You'll need the terminal lugs and the metric bolt that @W-T specifies in his article. First thing disconnect your batteries. I unhooked the two negative leads. You need to gain access to the loom going across the front of the engine. So you'll need to remove the upper alternator bracket and the the two loom holders on the front of the block. I did this during my coolant flush project so my upper hose and thermostat are removed. If you have my crankcase vent that will need to be removed as well. Now I started at the battery and the alternator and started unhooking the wiring from these devices bring it forward. Now you start working on getting the split loom off the wiring. Start at the tape with a small exacto knife or razor blade and carefully split the tape to release the plastic split loom cover. Carefully remove it. I found out mine was brittle after all the years of engine heat. Once you remove all that slpit loom you can again split the spiral tape holding the loom together. Now you show be able to have both the ground lead and the alternator charge lead loose now. I will admit the alternator lead took a bit of work to release at the knot of tape on mine where it breaks out of the loom heading for the PDC. Just take your time with your razor blade and your get it released. You can clearly see the splice of the ground just like @W-T mentions in his article. Once you get the alternator lead out in one piece. Then the ground lead I used a pair of wire dikes and cut the ground right at the end of the splice. Now the alternator lead I reused the wire since it was in excellent condition. I mocked up the alternator lead by hooking it back up to the alternator like it should be and gave it a nice loop of slack then cut it to meet the positive battery terminal. On my terminal lugs, I took a hacksaw and scored the plastic collars and peeled them off for soldering. Then slipped the lug on and used a propane torch with the low flame and soldered the lugs right on to the wire. Good sold weld and this will seal the wire from future rot from battery acid and vapors. This is the completed alternator connection now. All I did was grab an old nut and stacked on the battery terminal. Now we are going to do the ground side. Now trim back the old splice and free the ends of the wires. Now strip back the wire so you can fit the wires into a lug. Again I did the same thing I took the hacksaw scored the plastic collar and peeled it off the lug and then slipped it on the wires and prepped it for soldering. Again just slipped the lug on the wires and low flame with a propane torch I soldered the lug to the wires. Now I cut the old plug off the splice on the passenger side ground and then trimmed the length of the wire with the plug so it would reach between the driver side battery and the gear case. Same again I peeled the plastic collar and slipped the lugs on and soldered with low flame propane torch. This gives you an idea where the wires go. Take your metric bolt and attach the ground wires to the case. Then the ground cable to the negative battery terminal on the driver side. Beyond this is just clean up. Now you need to tape up your loom again. I'm going to replace my split loom with a smaller size being the old loom was brittle and was breaking during removal. The only thing that should run across the front of the engine now should be the ECT sensor which is a twisted pair. The A/C compressor, A/C high-pressure switch, and the alternator field lead. Before AC noise level was 0.038 AC volts now after the mod its dropped to 0.015 AC volts (or 15mV AC). About the parallel cables... There is lot of folks being told they NEED the parallel the positive and negative cables. To test if you need that or not. Take a good quality DVM meter capable of DC mV scale. Now place a Black probe on the battery terminal and the red probe on the block (clean metal). Typically I see 3mV (0.003 volts) after doing the other part of the ground wire mod. Now take a set of jumper cables and go from the negative post to negative post. Also check the AC noise voltage with the jumper cable hooked up if there is no real change then you do not require the parallel cables. If the voltage drop is the same with the jump cables then you do not require the parallel cables because there are ZERO improvements. You can do this on the positive side as well. If there is a voltage change my first thought is to replace the BAD cables first before paralleling on a bad cable. All you do is covering up a bad connection. Adding the extra cables will not improve anything if it's not changing the voltage drop from point to point. Addon: Protection fuse or fusible link Some members are suggesting to install a fusible link or fuse of the same size at 140 Amps on the charge lead as a protection method. Just in case for some reason the diode bridge happens to short the positive side to the ground and doesn't start an engine fire. As for the size of the fusible link is still unknown as of yet. The factory is 140 amp fuse. The fusible link would be better suited than a fuse. I've found a few trucks that is incapable of doing a circuit breaker because of mystery loads and causing the breaker to trip prematurely. Fuse will solve this problem but make sure to carry an extra fuse. Addon: Resettable Circuit Breaker I picked up an inexpensive 150A circuit breaker from Amazon. The breaker does the job but over time the breaker will get weak and trip prematurely. I still favor the circuit breaker over a fuse for the alternator protection. Fuses you might go through several and be left high and dry without a spare and unable to drive home. Make sure you buy plenty of spare fuses if you go that route. Even with my backcountry travels I still trust the circuit breaker better.

200℉ Cummins ThermostatI've been experimenting with hotter coolant temperatures and found for most daily drivers this is a good way to go. The added heat actually will improve the MPG number just slightly and reduce EGT's slightly. Gates - 34212 - 200℉This is direct replacement number. It will fit into your 1998.5 to 2002 Dodge Ram Cummins 5.9L engine without any modifications. ResultsSummer operation floats right around 204 to 210℉ coolant temperatures. With the tuning I've done on Quadzilla the engine oil temperature will stay 30 to 35℉ cooler than coolant. This stays the same for even wintertime operations with no issues so far in one year of operation even towing. In the picture below I'm using the transmission sensor in the oil gallery at the oil filter. Why hotter?Simply put the cooler you make the coolant the more the difference of temperature between the fire in the cylinder and the coolant will attract more heat energy back into the coolant wasting a percentage of power because of thermodynamics. The hotter you make the coolant the more heat energy there is for ignition of the fuel and don't require large amounts of timing to heat the fuel mist to a vapor to make it go bang. Remember liquid fuel doesn't burn till it is heated rapidly by compression and turned to a vapor now it will ignite easily. The other part is the less the expanding gases are cooled by coolant more power can be delivered to the wheels.

Mopar1973Man Cummins High Idle Switch install Parts supplied: Switch x 1 Switch Harness x 1 Switch Face Sticker x 2 Tools Needed: Drill + 3/8” bit Cleaning Wipe Pliers Small Flathead Installing: First unplug the batteries to prevent any shorting while installing. The Mopar1973Man High Idle Switch can be mounted anywhere that the harness will reach. The Harness is a total of 10’ long. 4 feet of the harness is required under the hood. A good place to mount the Mopar1973man.com Cummins High Idle Switch is on the Kick Panel under the steering wheel. There are a total of 5 plugs on the harness. Mopar1973man Cummins High Idle Board Plug The 8 pin plug on the end plugs into the Mopar1973man Cummins High Idle Switch Board. It is keyed so it will only fit in one way. Don‘t plug this in until later. It is easier to install the Harness without the Board attached. IAT Plugs The 2 pin white plugs are the Intake Air Temp sensor plugs. Plug A plugs into the OEM Sensor on the Engine Plug B Plugs into the OEM wiring Harness You can see the OEM Plug/Sensor Location This is the rear Drivers side of the Engine ECT Plugs The 2 black 2 pin plugs are Engine Coolant Temp sensor plugs Plug A plugs into the OEM Sensor on the Engine Plug B Plugs into the OEM wiring Harness You can see the OEM Plug Location This is the Front Of the engine Mopar1973man Cummins High Idle Switch Faceplate Sticker The Sticker should be placed where you intend to install the Switch. ENSURE YOU CLEAN THE SURFACE THROUGHLY BEFORE APPLING THE STICKER. Ensure that there is at least 2” of clearance behind the switch location to prevent any possibility of shorting on the back of the switch. The center white section of the Faceplate should be drilled out once placed on the surface. This hole is what the switch will mount through. The High idle Switch will ship with 2 Stickers just in case one gets messed up during the install process. Power Leads: These power leads need to go to a fused 12v source, Red goes to 12v and black goes to ground. They power the LED on the Switch to give you a Green light in MPG mode and a Red / Orange light in high idle mode. The switch will work without these wires being connected. If you need more please contact Support@mopar1973man.com After plugging in the harness plugs to the OEM Sensors and OEM Harness, run the 8 pin Molex through the firewall. Gently pull the harness through the Firewall until there is no slack. Run the Harness to where you plan on installing the Mopar1973man Cummins High Idle Switch. Ensure to tie up any slack in the harness if it is hanging down. Remove the Knob on the switch by loosening the set screw on the back of the knob, then remove the lock nut on the switch. Install the Mopar1973man.com Cummins High Idle Switch through the hole drilled in the sticker. Reinstall the lock nut to hold the switch tightly. Reinstall the Knob and tighten the set screw. Plug the harness into the Mopar1973man Cummins High Idle Switch Board. Ensure the Switch position is lined up with the sticker face plate. Turning the switch all the way counter clock wise will be the off position. You can rotate the switch position vs the sticker then tighen the lock nut. I have also created a couple of videos showing the process. (Part 1) (Part 2) (Part 3) Installing the Mopar1973man.com high idle kit harness

After 18 years of interesting CTD enthusiasts and transmission specialty outlets all contributing their method, or fix, to the well known TC lock unlock syndrome, I can no longer remain silent. Extensive review of many posts regarding TC lock unlock, the rerouting methodes, the add on filters for APPS and last, but not least,...the "tin-foil hat" brigade. I do realize that each individual or company that contributed to the vast amount of information on the web had good intentions and I must acknowledge that some of the procedures caused me to closely examine what these people were trying to do. I believe it is well known that even a blind mouse occasionally finds a morsel of cheese. Again, as it is well known @Mopar1973Man was the only entity who positively identified the instigating source of this key issue. My entry today is not about alternators...it is about what Daimler/Chrysler did in regard to production of these Cummins powered platforms and the complete disregard of common sense Electronic Engineering. Please note, this applies to automatic and manual transmissions as each platform is plagued in the same manor with different quirks. This Blk/Tan #8 gage wire is quite critical in the scheme of things. It is contained within a 1" plastic conduit passing along the front of the engine. It contains water temp sensor leads, air conditioning leads, alternator/PCM leads and the #6 gage alternator charge line to the PDC. This #8 gage Blk/Tan passes over the top/backend of the alternator and is "eventually" connected to the Auxiliary Battery (passenger side) negative terminal. This snapshot of the Factory Service manual documents "four critical ground leads" that are "spliced" in an unconventional method. This photo depicts the three #18 gage wires and the single #14 gage wire entering the shrink-tubing where the "crush-splice" occurs. This bundle exits the large plastic conduit below the VP44 This again is a most disturbing depiction of the Daimler/Chrysler method of splicing critical ground leads and then routing this across the top of the alternator and "eventually" bringing this to ground reference. This photo depicts where this #8 gage Blk/Tan first connects on the way to "eventual" ground...yes this is the Auxiliary Battery tray connector. Please note: it is spliced again and joins the PCM circuit board grounds...which are critical in their own nature...and "eventually" terminate at the negative post of the Auxiliary Battery's negative terminal. This photo is very interesting, it is the Factory Service manual and the assembly line documentation follows this as a road map in the matrix during production. Please NOTE the title "NAME" to each battery...I looked at this for a considerable amount of time before I realized the assembly line coordinators tried to work with the documentation from the Engineering Staff to "make it as it looks"...Could this single oversight be the reason of a four foot ten inch critical ground wire combination traveling the distance to "EVENTUALLY" terminate at ground? From a basic engineering standpoint regarding ground...you "NEVER CHOOSE THE PATH OF EVENTUAL GROUND" !!! It is to be the shortest and most concise connection in reference to ground...this is biblical in ALL ELECTRONICS...including pickup trucks. ! Here is the Factory Service manual documenting the PCM circuit board reference ground starting as a pair of #14 gage wires being spliced into a #10 gage bundle and arriving at the Auxiliary Battery through another connector that joins a #8 gage wire that is "splice-joined" under plastic conduit in a Y configuration joining the rouge #8 gage "after passing over the alternator" traversing the entire engine compartment from the driver side of the vehicle. Seriously I have been drinking excessively, most recently, due to the nature of this blatant discovery. This is the hidden Y splice at the Auxiliary Battery where the "mess" EVENTUALLY terminates for ground reference. This photo shows the correct "HOLE" of where to apply ground for the VP44, ECM and the PDC...note the logical location It took a little research to find the size and proper thread-pitch. Metric M5 with a 5/16" hex head is perfect This is where you apply a fresh "quality" #6 gage ground and terminate this at the Main Battery negative post on the drivers side for absolute ground reference for the VP44 and ECM This is a very short and concise reference to ground. This is the corrected procedure for a rather critical ground. The two largest wires originally contained within the 1 inch conduit are no longer present and located well away from the alternator. My alternator B+ "charge" line is now a #4 gage line directly connected to the Auxiliary Battery and when my new battery terminals arrive and they are secured, I'll provide photos of a completed Master Power Supply System within this engine bay. With these corrections, I would hypothesize that a poor ripple specification on a given alternator would be overcome by the immense capacitance of the parallel batteries and would become less prone to causing the dreaded TC lock/unlock for automatics and cruise-control abnormalities for the manual transmission platforms. The #8 gage Blk/Tan passing over the alternator as an "EVENTUAL" ground is gone...the PCM, ECM, VP44 and the PDC are now grounded in accordance of standard Electronic Engineering practices. Respectfully W-T

INSTALLING PROTECTIVE LIFT PUMP RELAY The life pump is powered through the ECM via pin #15 and #35. Every time the lift pump is energized the power drawn through the ECM causes heat. After a few thousands cycles of start/stops this heating up and cooling down cause’s degradation in the solder joints and failure. Another possible cause of ECM failure is higher than normal amperage load by either a larger capacity lift pump or a failing pump. As a lift pump starts to go bad (wear internally) the AMP load is increased to overcome the resistance. This added power draw can cause the ECM circuit board to overheat and solder joints to open. The lift pump power routed through a relay protects the ECM from power spikes and excessive amperage loads. The power load on the ECM is now less than 200mA. The lift pump circuit is also protected by a dedicated fuse. MATERIALS NEEDED WIRE: 4 colors if possible, size determined by load and distance, see chart. Fuse holder with fuse: AMP rating determined by load. Relay: Bosch type/mini ISO, terminal 87 normally open (NO) with suppressor, AMP rating determined by load. 6 (or more) solderless insulated female spade connector, 6.35 mm (.25”) sized for wire gauge. 2 (or more) solderless insulated male spade connector, 6.35 mm (.25”) sized for wire gauge. 1 (or more) solderless insulated barrel connector, gauge size for fuse holder. 2 ring terminals, one sized for ground wire and the other sized for fuse holder connection. Dielectric grease, for terminal connections. Self-adhering Velcro, for attaching relay to PDC. ¼” protective wire cover or wrap cut to length. TOOLS Wire cutter Wire stripper Crimping tool for solderless connectors, a small pair of Vice-Grips will work. A 13mm and 10mm socket or wrench. Volt, ohm, amp (VOA) meter with 20amp scale. Optional, Soldering gun/iron with rosin core solder LIFT PUMP DRAW TEST Locate the ground wire for the lift pump and place the VOA meter leads in series anywhere between a grounding point and the negative terminal/wire of the lift pump. With the negative VOA lead connected to ground and the positive VOA lead on the negative side of the lift pump turn the meter select to the 20 amp DC scale, turn the ignition key to the on position and the lift pump will run for 5 seconds. Read the amp draw and make note of it. The fuse, relay and wire size will be based on it. In this example we will use a hypothetical draw of 8.6 amps. CHOOSING FUSE SIZE Finding the correct fuse size is simply multiplying the load in amps times 135% (1.35). In this example 8.6 amps multiplied by 1.35 equals 11.61 amps. The next sized fuse larger than 11.61 amps is 15 so for this example a 15 amp fuse will be used. WIRE SIZE Wire size is based on fuse size and length of wire. The wire has to be able to carry a larger load and not burn up before the fuse does. If the wire gauge is too small for a given distance then the resistance in the wire will cause a drop in voltage. This reduced voltage reaching the lift pump will cause it to run slower and produce less pressure. The voltage not reaching the lift pump is given off as heat. Using the wire gauge chart an 18 AWG is the minimum size used for this example. WHAT RELAY TO USE When an electric motor starts there can be a sharp volt/amp load placed momentarily on the relay contacts so the relay should be rated 2-3 time the motors normal amperage. The motor in this example runs at 8.61 amps times’ 3 equals 25.8 amps so the next size relay that can be used is one rated at 30 amps. The relay of choice is the mini ISO otherwise known as the Bosch type in either 4 or 5 terminal, normally open (NO). Relay terminal 30 is switched power or common in, 87 is switched power out and normally open circuit (NO) when no power is applied to the relay coil. Terminal 86 is the positive or triggering terminal and 85 is the grounding terminal for the relay coil, check relay wire diagram for specific applications. Terminal 87a is normally closed (NC) when no power is applied to the relay coil. If you find a relay marked 20/30 this means terminal 87a is rated for 20 amps and terminal is rated for 30 amps. Using a relay with a built in voltage suppressor is a must. The relay will have a resistor or diode in parallel with the relay coil. This suppressor reduces the back flowing voltage spikes to the ECM when the power to the relay is shut off and the magnetic field around the coil collapses. Most relays denote the use of a suppressor with a symbol of a resistor or diode in the wiring diagram printed or etched into the relay cover. Pay extra attention to the +,- of pins #85 and 86 when installing a relay with a suppressing diode, if not installed properly the relay can be damaged. Napa relay part #ECH AR272 is ratted for 30 amps and has a resistor suppressor. INSTALLATION INSTRUCTIONS OPTION A First disconnect the batteries. Now determine where to place the relay. The relay can be placed on the PDC with Velcro, my Edge EZ has been mounted to the PDC this way for over 12 years. This will keep the electric components in one area, a shorter wire run for relay terminal 30 and no holes in the metal where rust can start. Do not put a screw through the PDC housing; there is the risk of wire or component damage. The source of the constant 12volt power can be either the positive terminal of the left battery or for a neater installation use the large cable stud in the PDC. Install one end of the fuse holder using an appropriate sized ring terminal to the 12 volt terminal and with an insulated female spade connector attach the other end to relay terminal 30. If the wire for the fuse holder is to short connect extra length with either an insulated barrel connector or solder them together and insulate with heat shrink tubing. Find the wire harness used for the lift pump, pulling back the protective wire wrap there will be a yellow wire with white tracer (yl/wt) and a factory connector. This is the factory lift pump power supply and will be used as the ‘trigger’ to open and close the relay contacts. The power source can be verified by attaching a test light or volt meter to it and turning the ignition key to the on position, there will be 12 volts for 5 seconds. The yl/wt wire can be cut 2½”-3”from the factory connector. NOTE this is another place where an amp lode test could be performed. Connect the new correct size wire with either male/female insulated spade connectors, insulated barrel connector or solder/heat shrink to the end coming from the ECM. Attach the other end of the new wire to relay terminal 86 with an insulated female spade connector. Consult relay diagram if diode protected. Connect another new wire to relay terminal 87 with an insulated female spade connector and the other end of the wire to either the factory connector where the yl/wt wire was cut or to the lift pump itself. The picture above shows new insulated spade connectors, the wire on the left is from the ECM to terminal 86 and the wire on the right is from terminal 87 to the lift pump. The relay grounding wire is attached to relay terminal 85 with an insulated female spade connector and the other end using a ring connector to the body. The bolt that holds the PDC to the inner fender is a good spot. Reconnect batteries and test. When routing wires take care that they are kept away from moving parts, ie: steering column, have enough length so as not to pull loose and are covered with protective wire cover or wrap. Use dielectric grease on connections to keep corrosion to a minimum or solder and seal with heat shrink tube. INSTALLATION ISTRUCTION OPTION B The relay and fuse can be installed in the PDC giving it the appearance of an OEM part. Some of the connectors used in the PDC are not available in the general market but can be found in an auto/truck salvage yard. I went to a ‘pick your part’ type salvage yard and found a 1999 Ram 1500 with V8. The PDC is basically the same as my 2000 diesel. You can either buy the whole PDC or remove the terminals with wires attached that will be needed. Leave as much wire as possible; the excess can be trimmed later. Disconnect connect the battery, remove the PDC cover and locate where a spare fuse and relay can be added. Remove the two sheet metal screws (10mm socket) and lift the PDC up. The PDC housing can now be opened by gently lifting the plastic clips on the sides and prying it apart. Now the bottom of the top half is exposed. Drill a hole large enough for three wires to pass through in the lower half of the case. This is where the wires for relay terminals 85, 86 and 87 will exit the PDC. The additional wire length is added by soldering and heat shrink tubing or insulated barrel connector to the used OEM connectors. These connections will be protected in the lower half of the PDC. Pass the wires through the hole and place the salvaged connectors into their appropriate relay slots. The other end of the wires can now be trimmed to length and connected as described in the installation instructions option a above. Place the 2 halves of the PDC together and remount the PDC to the inner fender while grounding the relay terminal 85 wire with one of the screws, reconnect battery and test. My truck lift fuel pump amp draw is 6.5 amps so at 135% protection needed is 8.77 amps, next standard size fuse is 10 amps. Relay size is 3 x 6.5 amps = 19.5 amps so a 20amp rated relay is needed. I used a micro relay which is half the size of a mini relay because it can handle 20 amps and there were 4 empty positions I could put it in verses 1 position for a mini relay in the PDC. I put the relay in a spot marked for an O₂ heater. My truck has a Fuel Boss mechanical fuel pump and I have this electric pump as a backup so I run the engine with the 10amp fuse in the glove box. With a fuel pump relay the fuel system can be primed without the ignition key being turned to the on position by jumping relay terminal 30 to 87. As long as the two terminals are connected the fuel pump will run. Written by: J. Daniel Martin, Martin’s Mobile Maintenance AKA: IBMobile 3/2/2017

Crankcase Vent Modification for 24V Dodge Cummins Trucks People been asking for me to redo this article so here it is. Supplies you'll need... 1 stick of 1/2" PVC pipe (minimum of 57" long) 3 - 1/2" PVC elbows slip to slip 1 - 1/2" PVC elbow slip to NPT (male or female) 1 - 1/2" PVC straight connector slip to NPT (male or female) 3" piece of 3/4" heater hose 2 hose clamps 1 Small can of PVC glue Hacksaw Sharpie black marker Tape measure Can of spray paint 1 Zip tie 6" long Cut measurements 3" Heater hose 4 1/2" front down pipe 2 1/4" front cross pipe 24" long pipe 5" rear cross pipe 20 1/2" rear down pipe NOTE: These measure are my final cut measurements. I suggest cutting a tad long and adjusting as you see fit for your truck. So at this point you should have all your materials to assemble. You should assembly your cut pipe and fittings dry without glue and test fit everything. While test fitting be sure to remove all plastic cuttings from the ends of the pipes. Also when test fitting be sure to bottom out all pipes into the fittings. In the supply list I list PVC elbow and a straight connector (male or female) this is totally up to you. You can do either way as long as you have a male and female connection in the end. Now during my test fitting I was very careful to get the front section of pie back far enough so its not in contact with the upper radiator hose. On the rear section you have to be careful of the angle of your down pipe. I've got mine resting on the very tip of the bellhousing. Now that you fairly happy with your fit. Take a Sharpie marker and mark all the elbow positions with a fine line from the elbow to the pipe to note position. This way you can glue the pieces back together in the proper angles. When gluing all the pieces together be sure once again to bottom out all your pipes into the fittings. At this point you will want to stuff your 3" piece of heater hose on the front pipe. Need at least 1" of heater hose on the PVC pipe for clamping. Now take a rag and a bit of paint thinner or lacquer thinner and wipe all the oil and grime off the pipe assembly. Now take a can of spray paint of the wanted color. It's best to get a spray paint that is chemically correct for plastics. So you should have a completed Crankcase vent pipe for your truck now. All you have to do is lay it back up on top. Make sure you have your 2 hose clamps on before installing. Slip the heater hose over the crankcase vent nipple. Using the one zip tie tie the rear cross pipe to the top of the hoist ring. Carefully slide the down pipe down and screw on to the rear fitting. Opps. the Paint was completely cured.

Mike is correct...the large current load on these 3 phase hairpin stators in conditions where all the available current is delivered does tax the design of the factory alternators. The diode's are all created on a single silicon substrate to assure uniform junction characteristics. This method allows for the PIV (peak inverse voltage) to closely match across all six diodes in a "three phase" rectified bridge. The old school would be to use individual large stud mounted diodes however; they would have to be curve traced to create a matched set of six diodes with close PIV and forward current avalanche voltage drops. All silicon diode junctions have a .6 volt drop turn-on when forward biased or conduction. Variations of these characteristics cause a dirty wave-form of the desired sinusoidal wave appearance. Hence; we have "ripple" witch is what Mike has explained so many times and why we must avoid this situation. Our trucks arrived with a "bare minimum" alternator design to get the vehicles off the sales lot. The grid heater configuration along with head lights and a fan blower for heat or defrost on early cold mornings takes the demand for these wimpy alternators to their design limits. Once we begin to "pound or beat" these diodes into forward and reverse current conduction we begin to see changes in the silicon junctions. It is cumulative and in time between hot summer and cold winter conditions our diode bridges become "leaky" and the "ripple" (AC component) becomes excessive and certain electric system devices begin to balk or react strangely with the imposed "ripple" floating on the DC(direct current) rail. Excellent mil-spec electronic devices or space-bound instruments MUST HAVE bullet proof power supplies. PURE DC hard-core power supplies are normal components and can be built without much effort today. Our alternators and dual batteries ARE the DC supplies for our trucks. The error is budget on Daimler/Chrysler's decision to put these 135 amp alternators into the Cummins platform. The standard rule of thumb for all electronic design regarding power supplies is, "If you have a demand of 100 amps maximum in a given system, you build a supply with 50% more headroom minimum. Now, take conditions into consideration...heat, cold and perhaps a poor matched battery in a dual battery (paralleled batteries) storage supply and the occasional "starter" operation (the Cummins starter is INSANE on current demand!) and WE have a real MONSTER to feed! Boys and Girls...if you want bullet-proof DC, double the available current at idle. Yes...this is correct...go with a 6 phase (twelve diode pack) and a hand-wound "square wire" hairpin-stator. The six-phase stator and companion rotor will cut the ripple to near zero in conjunction with proper storage capacity (really good paralleled batteries) you will have the power supply for your Cummins. The "square" wire wind is best for current demand when an "AC field wave-form" is cutting the coil to impose current into the inductive system. It is the cutting edge in design for transformers with high efficiency and LESS HEAT. Heat is "loss" and also destroys the surrounding aspects of the generating device. BTW...not even Nations builds to these specifications....they buy their upper-end higher current devices from a source in Riverside California. Just for grins... 1 Amp...what is this? Electronics 101: Current flow is "electrons" ( remember 5th grade science?) the Atom is composed of three elements the Proton, Neutron and the little Electron flying around the other two elements like an orbiting satellite. It is the "electron" we are interested in when it comes to DC (direct current) when we refer to "current flow" in a circuit. SO...the question is? When we measure "current flow" the term Amps is used....how many "electrons" flow through a piece of wire at a given point in "one second" ??? One Amp is (physics term "Coulomb" ) equals 1x10 to the eighteenth power....hence; when you start your mighty Cummins you are transferring 1x10x18 x 600 electrons in order to spin the Beast into run condition ! Take a look at the size of this number ! This is why you need "FAT" wire to allow all those little (minions) electrons to race at the speed of light through the wire to the given load. As you can see...current flow is from "negative" to "positive" in our world. The battery has a "positive" terminal and it is "sucking" to become satisfied. It attracts ("sucks") electrons off the frame-rail of your truck "as current flow" in order to spin the armature of the starter motor. SO..."negative" (electrons) flow towards the "positive" (hole or sucking-action)....seems we have an "upside down" world !!!! Now this leads us to another interesting Physics observation...you see...lights Do Not Give Off Light ! They suck "dark" and you will notice when a light bulb "burns out" and no longer provides luminescence....we say "it is burned out" however; we now know that is not true!.... IT IS FULL of Dark and we need a new bulb ...Look at the bulb...it's "dark". Sorry...had to share this funny tid-bit...none the less...our Cummins platforms were not produced with Mil-Spec in mind. Sorry, our ECM and PCM's must be provided "clean" stable DC in order to function correctly. The design guys never considered 6 millivolts of "ripple" to be critical for converter "lock and unlock" syndrome and yet we see the result and unwanted operational characteristics. I build killer DC power supplies for various electronic devices...you need a shop oscilloscope to even see the minor "AC ripple" and as for regulation, from zero to 100 Amps at 14.8 volts there is NO DC drop in voltage. It is like taking and engine from "zero" to "red line" in a heart-beat and you don't even see a fraction of a voltage drop...this is called a "Stiff DC Regulated Supply". Build your DC Supply...the Cummins platform is a Nobel Beast....feed it a good stiff DC diet with NO sag and Zero ripple and all will be well. ALSO...guys I lurk around out here...I've seen photos you have all taken "under the hood" of your beloved vehicles...gosh golly!!! The appearance of the battery terminals and cable connectors...it is pretty sad. You can't transfer billions and billions of electrons (with NO heat) through the scum I have viewed. Again...No worries...we are all in this together... I share this respectfully as intellectual content with just a touch of humor Cheers

Bosch Certified VP44 Injection Pump Rebuilders This write-up is to list out all Bosch Certified injection pump builders who have an on-site Bosch 815 injection pump stand for testing and calibration Bosch VP44 injection pumps found on the Cummins Turbo Diesel. This is to educate Dodge Ram Cummins Turbo Diesel owners who there is only a handful of companies have the proper tooling for rebuilding Bosch VP44 injection pumps. This is not to steer you away from different vendors or dealers but to educate you to the fact, there is actually very few VP44 shops that do in-house rebuilding and calibration of the Bosch VP44 injection pump. I'm hoping with this article it will enlighten you enough to ask questions of the source of the Bosch VP44 injection pump, warranties, etc. This means there are a lot of vendors / dealers out there that are not tooled up for handling Bosch VP44 Injection pump rebuilding nor calibration. Now why there are so few shops that have a Bosch 815 test bench is because of the price, The Bosch 815 test stand are about $225,000.00 to purchase the Bosch 815 test stand. The Bosch License to do VP44 pump remanufacturing work is close to 1 million dollars from what I've been told by one injection shop I spoke to. This was the reason why most injection shop does not handle VP44 remanufacturing because of the pure price you must pay to become a Bosch Certified Rebuilder. Midwest Fuel injection Industrial Injection O-F-I (Oregon Fuel Injection) Jasper Engines Diesel Fuel Injection Rebuild Center Central Motive Power ProDiesel Diesel Forward (Diesel Injection Service) Dixie Diesel Here are a few videos of the Bosch 815 test stand used for calibrating the Bosch VP44 injection pump and the Bosch CP3 injection pumps. This goes to show that all pumps must meet a certain level of the test bench before being sold. If you happen to obtain information of additional certified Bosch Injection Shops with an in-house Bosch 815 test bench, please notify me I'll append the company name to the listing. Added - Central Motive Power - 03/06/13 From: Cordell walker Hey Mike, I'd just like to let you know that Central Motive Power in Denver/Commerce City Colorado is a Bosch-certified pump shop. I've seen their 6 test benches with my own eyes as well as all their other Bosch equipment for injectors and have watched them rebuild a vp44. -Dustin Added - ProDiesel - 03/09/14 From: Clunk @ CumminsForum These guys too, I've been inside their facility, saw the big Bosch test rig too. Added - Diesel Forward - 11/08/14 From: SlightlyHazy @ CumminsForum Hi there. I tried to send you a message quite a while ago about there being an 815 VP44 test bench local to me and was just reminded on a separate post that brought up your list but the company wasn't listed. Anyhow diesel forward in Windsor has a bench in house. They are also known by diesel injection service. Added - Dixie Diesel - 10/03/15 From: Drinkin Diesel @ Cummins Forum Sure can..here is the link to their website.... http://www.dixiediesel.com Phone number: 1 888 381 1647 P.O. Box 336 200 East 16th Street Columbia, TN 38401 Great guys to deal with.. except he had told me he has had good luck running the vp44 H.O. with 300hp injectors...that kinda worried me a bit..I declined his offer, due to trans being stock..

Swapping between 98.5-00 & 01-02 Dodge Cummins ISB 24v VP44 Engines Many people need to change their engine out due to “53” blocks, catastrophic failures or just plain wear & tear. Most do not know about the differences between the two “Sub generations” as I will call them. I will try to explain it all in this article. I will also give known ways to accomplish the swap & why. I will also give an alternative way that I presume will work, but cannot guarantee.Firstly, for some basics. If at all possible, get a replacement engine of the same sub generation if at all possible to make your life easier. Second, if you must use an engine from a different sub generation, GET A FULL DONOR VEHICLE.For the proven method of swapping sub generations, you WILL need the ECM, PCM, full engine harness & PCM at a minimum. Now, there have been a few cases where either the donor truck or recipient truck has the factory security system. In these cases, you may need the gauge cluster and/or the CTM (Central Timer Module). Here is an exerpt from http://dodgeram.org/tech/dsl/ECM/ that explains most of it & I will denote my changes to it with “**” at the beginning & end.98.5-00: “ Engine RPM and timing are derived from the Crankshaft Position Sensor (CKP) on 1998-2000 models. A 35 tooth tone ring with a gap where the 36th tooth should be is bolted to the crankshaft. A hall effect sensor registers each tooth as it passes and sends the signal to the ECM. The tooth gap corresponds to 60 degrees BTDC of cylinder #1. A Camshaft Position Sensor (CMP) senses a hole ** Slot ** in the back of the camshaft drive gear to check for TDC of cylinder #1. This signal is used for diagnostic purposes and is not used to control the fuel system. ** It is also used to drive the tachometer to my understanding** Here is a picture of the back of the 98.5-02 gear”. **Notice the depth of the slot!** Picture captured from www.ebay.com Now, here is the crank & crank gear from: http://www.dieselbombers.com/dodge-diesel-tech-articles/15100-ram-tough-rebuild-cummins-engine-specs-brief-history.html“ The upper most crankshaft is the first design used from 1983-1997.5 and from 1999.5-2002 for Dodge applications. The crank in the middle is the second design with the crankshaft position sensor trigger ring that was used from 1997.5-2002 for non-Dodge applications. The lower inlay shows the that the trigger ring is two pieces and can easily be replaced without crank removal. The second-generation crankshaft is forged steel and induction hardened as well. It also has 8 flywheel bolts and includes two dowel pin holes for flywheel location. This crankshaft was used from 1997.5-1999.5 for Dodge and 1997.5 through 2002 for non-Dodge application. In Figure 4 you’ll notice the slightly different relief as well as other differences. This crankshaft uses a bolt-on crankshaft position trigger ring, which is manufactured in two pieces. It could actually be replaced in-chassis if it needed to be done that way”.If you read the article, you will see that it is a 2 piece gear that is replaceable with the crank in place. I do not think the 01-02 Dodge crank is machined for it, as per the article.Another possible option for this gear replacement is a product from Destroked that is a tone wheel, sensor, bracket & hardware to go on the front of the crankshaft. Here is the link: http://www.destroked.com/prod_tach_kits.php It is the “36 minus 1 tach kit”. Although, this seems like it will replace the crank wheel, I am not positive that the signal is exact. Please contact Destroked for more info on that.The only other differnece that I can think of between the sub generations is the MAP sensor, as the 98.5-00 reads a different value than the 01-02.01-02: Now, again from the article :http://dodgeram.org/tech/dsl/ECM/ : “The crankshaft position sensor was deleted for 2001 and 2002 models; engine speed, crankshaft position, and injection timing information will be derived from the camshaft position sensor signal. Notches are cut into the rear face of the camshaft gear. A hall effect sensor registers each notch as it passes, and sends the signal to the ECM. A missing notch corresponds to TDC of cylinder #1”. Here is the cam gear: This image captures from a Fourwheeler.com article: http://www.fourwheeler.com/vehicle-reviews/131-0407-dodge-ram-cummins-upgrade/ As far as I can count, there are 60 or 61 teeth minus 2 (Difficult to count from the image). Now, NOTICE that the 2 missing teeth are beside each other. To compare that with the crank gear from the 98.5-00 crank gear (Counting a 2:1 rotation of the crank/cam rotation), the older crank signal would have 72 teeth, minus 2, but the 2 “Minus” teeth would be on opposite sides of the cam gear. Now, go back up to the text of the 98.5-00 cam gear & remember that I mentioned the depth of the notch? That is depth from the outer edge of the gear. Notice the difference of about 1/4” difference (From my uncalibrated eyeballs)? Also, the depth inward to the face of the notches is deeper on the 01-02 gear. To me, this means that along with the cam gear, you will also need the full gear housing & 01-02 CPS (Cam Position Sensor) to make the 01-02 electronics work on a 98.5-00 engine. Just block off the Crank sensor hole, or leave the sensor in, but not connected. MAP sensors: The 98.5-00 MAP sensor reads a different value than the 01-02 MAP sensor. Also, the 01-02 MAP sensors read the same values, but have different plugs. If swapping between 01 & 02, you can use your original MAP sensor, or get an adapter from many diesel suppliers that adapts the plug.Other than these issues, there should be no differences that will throw a CEL (Check Engine Light), or make any driveability differences. Author: Ed Grafton Screenname: Yankneck696

Dodge/Cummins ECU (1998.5 - 2002 ISB) ECU Hardware There are 2 computers on the Ram. One on the passenger side firewall behind the air cleaner assembly (the Powertrain Control Module, or PCM), and the ECU, which is located on the left side of the engine, mounted directly on the engine block. The ECU is connected with a single 50-pin connector. The ECU itself is a sealed unit, with a single air vent device. It is constructed of an aluminum 'frame', or center section, that has the mounting tabs to fasten it to the engine, and a sheet aluminum 'cover', that isn't really a cover at all - the flexible plastic 'circuit board' is adhered directly to the inside of this 'cover', on both sides. There is gray silicone sealer between the 'cover' and the 'frame'. To open the ECU, one must remove the screws, and carefully pry the cover open. You must be sure to keep the cover straight and don't bend it, as the flexible circuit board is adhered directly to the inside of it. The side of the ECU with the electrical connector seems to contain power supply and other power-switching components (driver transistors, etc). I do not know if there are any ICs on this side, because I did not open mine up on that side (and at this point, I do not really want to). The other side contains the 'computer' components (processor, memory, etc) as shown below: Most of the ICs inside are standard components. There are several unidentified components: 8L12A: 8-pin IC. Possibly 12V voltage regulator for flash programming? Phillips IC, marked '4651148 005633-- Fhr011B'. Maybe analog MUX for ADC inputs? Atmel IC, marled 'ENCORE 51R42722U02 82002253-001 A9D0013 9951'. I have no idea what this is for, it looks like an ASIC. 8-pin IC marked '74690 XAVS' 8-pin IC marked '3029009 1951130'. Near the filter choke. CAN bus driver? The ECU only uses 256KB of flash, even if the installed chip is larger. The original ECU I opened had a 512KB chip (28F400). I later obtained another ECU, and discovered it had a 256KB chip (28F200). These flash chips are organized into a 16KB boot block, 2 8KB parameter blocks, and the remaining blocks are regular data blocks. The parameter blocks can sustain many more read/write cycles than the other blocks on the chip. There is 64k of RAM available, in the 2 32Kx8 SRAM chips. The memory is organized as follows: 0x000000 - 0x3FFFFF: Flash. The first 16k (0x000000 - 0x004000) is the 'boot' part of the flash chip. 0x800000 - 0x80FFFF: RAM 0xFFD000 - 0xFFD7FF: Some unknown peripheral device. Perhaps the Atmel chip? 0xFFD800 - 0xFFDFFF: Intel CAN Controller 0xFFE000 - 0xFFEFFF: TPURAM (Refer to the MC68336 manual) 0xFFF000 - 0xFFFFFF: MC68336 internal functions/integrated peripherals Software Using a BDM interface cable and driver, I wrote a program that would dump the contents of the flash chip to a file for inspection. This was difficult because every so often during the data transfer, an error would occur. I solved this problem by only reading 2KB at a time. I later found out that this read error was occurring because of a 'watchdog timer' in the ECU hardware was attempting to assert RESET while I was reading the data (because when reading through the BDM port, the CPU is stopped). Once I modified the program to do 2KB reads I was able to get a successful read of the data. I used GNU objdump to create an assembler listing of the file. I have spent many hours 'picking apart' the program to figure out what each section is for, how the peripherals of the MC68336 are configured/used, etc. There is a compressed program in the lower 16K (boot block) that gets decompressed into RAM at startup, only if certain conditions are met. This is probably a small program that is only good for reading the CAN bus, so that the flash can be reprogrammed. I have not spent much time examining this program. The VIN of the vehicle is embedded in data around 0x4000, and again around 0x8000. There is also a 'signature' around 0x8000 that is checked at startup, and if it is valid, an address is read from location 0x800a and execution of the 'main' startup code continues at that address. There is a considerable amount of data that gets moved from the end of the flash data into RAM at startup. In this example, the data begins at 0x3829e and ends at 0x3fee7. That is approx. 32KB of data. At this time, I have only been able to identify the startup code, where the various components are initialized and addresses are set up, and parts of the program that read/write the CAN messages. The following things need to be done: Identify the CAN messages themselves, the message contents, and what they mean. Identify which inputs connect to where (temp sensors, MAP, APPS, etc). Identify the other outputs and what ports they are located (Wait to start lamp, VP44 relay, fuel pump relay, intake heaters, etc.) Determine how the flash can be programmed by methods other than desoldering the chip from the board Identify the remaining program sections, and their assocaited data (the 'maps') It would probably be useful to build a CAN interface for my PC, and 'watch' the data on the CAN bus while the engine is in operation. This might yield some information that can be used to identify more of the program. Other information It appears that the ECU itself was designed (and possibly manufactured) by Motorola. The ECU software, is unknown. There is no copyright message or any other identifying information in the dump of the flash memory, except the VIN number and the string '091197'. I do not know what language the program was originally written in, probably C, I really don't think something that large would be written in assembly language. Why? Because it is my truck, my ECU, my flash memory chip, etc. and I have a right to know how it works. And I also have the right to do what I want with it, whether that be drive it, or take the ECU out, sprinkle cheddar cheese on it and bake it in the oven, etc. I think people should be able to understand, and repair if necessary, anything that they own, whether it be a computer, a car, a dishwasher, or a bike.

Tuning with a Smarty Programmer Written by pepsi71ocean FOREWARD OK guys, here is the scoop. It has long been know that Smarty S03's burn dirty. But the bigger thing here is the fact that understanding how the smarty works, and base settings to start with seem to be non existence. As a result the confusion created makes the Smarty one of the most confusing programmers on the market. However, I believe that for towing it is one of the more powerful ones when set up correctly. There are many advantages to the Smarty S03, mainly that it is plug and play, you unplug it and you don't have extra computers or added wiring to hook up. Plus when being inspected by NJ DOT for emissions I've also passed as well, which may or may not being a big deal in your state if they have smoke tests. I have used the Smarty since I bought it in July 2010 with 71,400 miles on the odometer. With over 54,500 miles of Smarty use, and countless experimentation; I have been studying this Smarty for more then 5 years heavily in terms of flashing the ECM with different settings, different injectors, and extensively in reference to Mike on the phone because we were trying to understand what the settings did. In the end this article got allot of help with the thread Smarty S03: Tuning & Testing of Can-bus Fueling, in which with extensive testing we were able to confirm things I long knew, but we couldn't understand what they do. Fell free to read the thread, as this write-up is backed up around how it works. In the end the Can-bus fueling thread help explain and give me the ability to articulate this article. Without further blabbering here are my notes (using the information gathered on the Can-bus testing and other threads). NOTE: Due to the excessive length of this article (8 pages on my computer) it is broken into sections to make it easier to get to specific areas. NOTE: When your programming your smarty you must set your REVO settings first then flash in the SW#. Any changes to the REVO software will require to re-flash your ECM, thus requiring you go back into the SW# and reprogram. Section Guide General Notes Common Smarty Issues-(Surging, sluggish acceleration etc) Torque Management Duration Timing (includes Over-Advancement WARNING) SW Settings REVO Smoke and Spool Up Control Smoke Control (alternative method) Towing and the Smarty Section 1- General Notes Duration should be increased based on the size of the injectors. The Timing REVO doesn't change your timing at the top, the Smarty locks the timing at 18.02*. The SW# and the REVO software work independently of one another, meaning that SW9 is not the same as TM6, T4 and D5.(REVO on max) Your trucks internals make a difference, Turbo Size, transmission type, torque converter stall speed. All play a factor on your abilities to tune your truck here, and in finding you which settings work best. The Smarty S03's performance bump is only good for use really between 1,200 and 2,400rpm's, but this is the area your truck is using the most. The S03 locks timing at 18.02*, but the amount of throttle required to lock the timing at that ratio changes based on the Timing level. Example T4 locks the timing at say 60% throttle, rather-wise T3 is 70%, T2 is 80% etc. The higher the SW level the faster you hit %100 duration in relation to throttle input. SW3 wont hit %100 until WOT. SW5 will hit %100 duration at %50 throttle input / SW7 Will hit %100 duration at 40% throttle input. SW9 will hit %100 duration at 30% throttle input. In order for timing to lock at 18* you must have %100 duration AKA 4095 on the databus for a fueling command. Smoke control can also be controlled by mechanical means, ie raising injector pop pressure. Section 2- Common Smarty Issues If you have a Smarty and have the symptoms below see the sections for fine tuning. Cruise Control Surge<>See Torque Management Sluggish acceleration<>See Timing Smoke before spool up<>See Torque management Smoke on passing<>See Duration Not enough passing power<>See Duration Section 3- Torque Management----------------------------------------------------- This setting basically controls the low end response. The larger the Injectors you have the lower this number can be and achieve the same result. The higher the TM# with larger injectors the more smoke you will have on your pre-boost fueling. NOTES-If your having issues with cruise control surge, this will help calm down the surging issues as you lower the TM#. With my 100hp injectors I have ZERO cruise control surge issues with my truck. With aftermarket injectors you have really only 4 settings to choose from. I consider 3 the lowest number, the closer to stock injectors the higher you can get on the TM#. There are two exceptions to this rule, one is running a compound/twin turbo or one that is a VGT based. The other is higher popped injectors. Torque Management # 0 - Default<Default for the SW#> # 1 – Factory TM # 2 – Light TM(you need to adjust TV cable for this) # 3 – Good for larger injectors 100hp or greater # 4 – OK for larger injectors 75-100hp, depending on transmission TV cable setting. # 5 – OK for larger injectors 50-75hp, depending on transmission TV cable setting. # 6 – Good for stock Injectors, Section 4-Duration----------------------------------------------------------------------- This setting controls the length of injection. I find it is useful to set accordingly. This setting more or less controls passing power on the freeway. It is quite possible to run out of fuel when passing at higher speeds. For example on #2 I was good for passing at 35-40 mph, but the truck couldn't pass at highway speeds of 65-70mph. If you set this to high you WILL roll coal on the freeway when passing even after the turbo has lite up. Injection duration # 0 - Default<Default for the SW#> # 1 – Stock duration # 2 – Good for Injectors below 75 HP # 3 – Good for 75-100 HP # 4 – Good for 100 HP # 5 – Good for larger then 100 HP Section 5-Timing---------------------------------------------------------------- The term Timing is very miss-leading here. The Timing settings don't change your timing, but they do change when the timing locks at 18.02*. For trucks with larger injectors you should read this section thoroughly and the Over Advancement warning below as well. Unlike what is commonly believed here, the Smarty locks your timing once you cross a tps% threshold, and keeps it locked, even if you push your throttle in farther. Now the tps% threshold is dictated by two factors the SW# and the Timing#. In the chart below you can see where the Timing is locked by the tps%. Now the higher your SW# the faster your reaching that 100% tps fueling, regardless of where your foot is on the pedal. When driving with larger injectors this can become an issue when the tps locks so low that you can't spool your turbo, and no amount of Torque Management or Duration will fix this, just exacerbate it. When driving or towing, (automatic or manual), you need to find which movement of the pedal is normal for you, How much control you desire is based on the SW#, and then locking your timing can then be adjusted based on your Timing#. NOTES When running larger injectors on #4, you need to be careful because it can cause to much timing, adjusting the SW# down by one number (ie 9-7-5) to change this. Larger Injectors can run more timing on a lower SW#, but the higher it is the lower the number has to be. This is because the SW#9 setting runs cruise timing at a different rate because it's fooled on the ECM. Running the SW# on an even number results in stock timing, however changing the timing revo will revert the truck back to Smarty timing. Bottom Line Timing on 3 is the same weather your running an Even or an odd SW#. The smarty locks the timing regardless of the Timing # at 18.02*, however the SW# and the higher the Timing can change how fast it gets to that 18.02* and how much pedal is required. Note that to much timing can cause negative torque which I expand on more below when detecting for it. The size of and pop pressure of your injectors also plays a major roll here, as they effect combustion and injection. The larger your injectors the more lag you have with the mechanical timing offset, which can also eschew your numbers. Injection Timing # 0 – Default<Default for the SW#> # 1 – Stock<Stock Timing> # 2 - SW Timing for stock injectors(locks timing about 80% throttle) # 3 - SW Timing for aftermarket Injectors # 4 - SW Timing for aggressive timing(locks timing about 65% throttle) Step back table for Timing with larger Injectors and CaTCHER software. SW# Acceptable Advised Not OK SW5 T2- T3- T4 T3- T4 SW7 T2- T3- T4 T2- T3- T4 SW9 T2- T3 T3 T4 Over-Advancement WARNING: Now we know that the timing is static at 18.02* so why is there over advancement you ask? Its because the Smarty will lock it in to soon. Now with stock injectors this isn't an issue, however with my larger injectors I noticed sever issues with this. There are risks here involved with locking your timing to soon especially if your towing heavy or need spool up. So what does it feel like? This is best defined as a lack of acceleration when you push on the throttle, and the more you push down the throttle, it doesn't change anything until you get higher up around 2,000RPM. It should be noted that once it locks the timing it will keep it locked from that %tps onward, so adding more throttle will not pull your timing!!! If you do find yourself experiencing this it's best to back off the Timing 1 notch. Or lower your SW# by a CaTCHER setting. This is a game here, Some trucks will run better on a lower SW# with a higher Timing#, others benefit from lower Timing, and Higher SW#. Section 6 SW Settings---------------------------------------------------- The higher the SW# then more aggressive the throttle response from idle up. Remember the gain in HP at the top is the same, however what you are using the smarty for is the low and mid range bump. The higher the SW# the lower the bump moves in RPM. So low that on SW#9 its about right off idle. Now there is a trade off here, the higher the SW# the lower the tps is shown to the ECM, as a result you truck runs with better cruise timing. However, you must remember as was covered in the Timing Section, that the Smarty will lock the Timing at 18.02* as well if you get on the pedal. Smoke control is achievable by using a higher SW# because it fuels harder to spool faster, but this can also be achieved with the TM Revo. When you start running larger injectors you will notice more benefits from running lower SW#'s because you get better control with your feet when it comes to acceleration and torque. Your gain with running SW9 with larger injectors diminishes with the larger the injector because you are now over fueling, it makes the truck harder to drive. NOTES When towing use the lower the SW# the better you have control over towing. Remember that the Even SW# are fueling only, unless you switch the Timing# to something other then the default of the Catcher. Choosing a SW# for towing varies by injector size, turbo spooling, and other variables, but its best to start looking around SW5. Here is the SW Table SW# 1 : Fuel Saver SW# 2 : Only more fuel and Boost fooling SW# 3 : Like # 2 + added timing SW# 4 : “Soft” CaTCHER no added timing SW# 5 : Like # 4 + added Timing SW# 6 : Mild CaTCHER no added timing SW# 7 : Like # 6 + added Timing SW# 8 : CaTCHER no added timing SW # 9 : CaTCHER with Timing Section 7 REVO----------------------------------------------------------------- Now that we have a good understand of how the interact with each other, this is the best way to get your adjustments in. Understand that each SW power level will require a different input form the REVO side. The results you see will be based on the injector size, turbo size, and other modifications you have. I've found it best to have a notepad handy and take notes of observations. When testing you want to go through the broad range, and NOT do WOT tests as they will not give you an idea of how your truck will drive with the different settings. When adding in your revo settings its best to find a good mix of them all. In this case I've found that the SW5 and SW7 levels work great for towing use. And even with larger injectors the lower the SW# the better it is. My 100's run great on SW5 for towing, She has good throttle range for towing use, the Smarty ramps up hard higher up in the rpm range, to where you need that for spool. Towing from 1,600-2,300rpm is much better. Section 8 Smoke and Spool up Control-------------------------------------- When you start using the CaTCHER software, its best to start planting your TM and Timing and Duration based on the tables I wrote up above, and make adjustments as necessary. NOTE:If you want more low end response raise the TM# up one notch. NOTE:If you want to add more passing power raise Duration up one notch. Its best to find the limits of what you need. For example with Duration I found that 5 made smoke on passing, and 3 I ran out on the high way, so backing to 4 was ideal. The pyrometers will be effected by this, as the injection duration is in blocks, You can't make finite adjustments, however the extra fueling between 3 and 5 is enough with 100hp injectors to get passing power smoke. Torque Management will work in a similar fashion, the low end rolling boost is proportional to the TM# and injector size. When I had TM set to 6 I couldn't even use cruise control and had smoke if I pushed the pedal to fast, lower the TM# and the issues went away. And even so the cruise control and smoke issues got less as I dropped the TM from 6 to 4, and found that 2 was unusable, but 3 worked best for me. I still believe that the smaller the injectors the higher you can raise the TM# without these effects. Even so the two are still connected, you can still roll coal with TM#6 with duration on 2 or 3 with larger injectors. Because the TM will still control the spool up on the passing side of the turbo. This is important to note as this can confuse people when it comes to tuning for smoke control. Section 9-Smoke Control(alternative method)----------------------------------------------------- All of this is designed to help with smoke control and tune-ability so that you can get a good running truck. However, if you find yourself in the a situation where you have low end smoke and your running out of passing power, you may want to check and get your injectors popped. I advise a base of at least 300 if not higher based on injector size. I set my 100's to 322 BAR and have no smoke even after making tuning adjustments. Section 10-Towing with the Smarty Towing with the Smarty can turn your truck into an towing beast. This is where I believe the smarty shines. For me I have found that the lower the SW# the more control you have, especially if you find yourself towing heavy routinely. Now what makes your settings unique is determined by the size of injectors, your turbo charger size, transmission type, and upgrades to your transmission. Its best to run a lower SW# either 3-5-7. As you raise the SW# the response will rise. If your towing you will want to prevent the Smarty from locking the timing at too low of a %tps, Understand that the torque put out by the Smarty is not RPM dependent, but tps dependent. When towing, or climbing in mountains you will see more benefit from the lower SW# because it gives you better control with your feet when towing/acceleration control. The larger the injectors the less of an offset you will need for pedal movement to get that added HP/TQ. When you do reach the lock up tps% for timing its better to have it at a higher throttle percentage for this reason. The 18.02* of timing is very safe and stout for 1,800rpm's but it is actually not enough at 2,400rpm's. Which is the reason why the Smarty gives you the torque you need farther down. The larger the injector the harder it fuels the higher the SW, so extra smoke is just wasted fuel, In these cases its better to have the torque at a higher throttle percentage especially for slipper/wet/or wintry roads! When towing if you find yourself running out of passing power, or climbing hills where you need more boost increase your Duration by a click. If you are finding to much oomph on SW9 turn the TM back a bit, or raise your TM# and lower the SW#. Either can get you there. But understand the effects of the timing locking. Conclusion---------------------------------------------------------------------------- I know this was very drawn out, but it should give you a really good understanding of how the Smarty works. If you have questions about tuning feel free to send me a PM and ask questions. John Armstrong Jr. Revision 1.3 Date 2-3-2019

I don't do much on the forums anymore, but I thought somebody might benefit from documenting what I consider a proper radio installation for a 2nd generation Ram. Honestly it will probably be almost identical for any extended cab Ram. I purposely built this using materials anybody can get from the big box stores and truck stop radio supplies. Materials List: Qty 1: 3/4 in. x 36 in. Plain Steel Square Tube with 1/16 in. Thick Qty 1: 1 in. x 36 in. Plain Steel Flat Bar with 1/8 in. Thick Qty 1: 2 in. x 36 in. Plain Steel Flat Bar with 1/8 in. Thick Qty 1: 6 in. x 18 in. 16-Gauge Plain Steel Sheet Metal Qty 2: M8 1.25 20mm Bolt Qty 2: M8 1.25 Nut Qty 2: M8 Flat Washer Qty 2: 5/16 x 3/4" Bolt Qty 1: Wilson 305-830 18' Belden Coax Cable with PL-259/FME Connectors Qty 1: TruckSpec TS-101ADLN Thin Double Groove Mirror Mount with SO-239 Stud Connector Qty 1: 1/4" Split wire loom Qty 1: 3/8" Rubber Insulated Metal Clamp Qty 1: 6" Zip Tie (yes only one) Qty 1: #8 x 3/4" Phillips Washer HD Tapping Screw Balkamp 665-2837 Qty 1: FireStik K-1A Push-n-Twist quick disconnect (this is required) Starting with the antenna: 3' Firestik II Looking down the stake pocket: What the antenna mount looks like. You will be tempted to buy the larger four bolt mount. Don't as you can not get it in the pocket. Even this little guy takes some fiddling to get it down there. In the item list are two 5/6" bolts. This is part of the trick getting everything to fit. Separate the clamp, then you have to tap the antenna side holes to accept the 5/16" bolt. This serves two purposes. 1. You have zero chance of getting a nut on a bolt inside the stake pocket. 2. It reduces the possibility of hardware physically interfering with the coax. Things are tight in there. To make this work you have to assemble the now threaded mount, the firestik quick connect and the coax in one shot. Anything that has to be tightened to the mount must be done so prior to dropping it into the stake pocket. Here comes the painful part. Drilling holes. These are the very first holes I have ever drilled in this truck. Antennas are about the only reason I will punch a hole in a vehicle. Per the picture you can see I used the outer clamp from the bracket. This serves a couple purposes. 1. Expands the clamping area to provide better support for the mast and reducing the possibility of metal fatigue. If you don't have a bed liner grounding will also be improved. 2. It acts as a spacer to keeping the bolt protrusion to a minimum. Use a step drill bit anytime you are drilling sheet metal. Much cleaner holes. The holes are over sized in the bed to provide adjust-ability to aid vertical antenna placement. Drill the top hole first. Attach the bolt and clamp on the inside of the bed. Use that to locate where the bottom hole should be located. Then drill the bottom hole. Now we have to think about coax routing. You will be tempted to route the coax through the oval opening to the outside of the bed. This could be done, but I don't recommend it. At least not using the coax I identified in the material list. It is good coax, and has a really good strain relief boot for the antenna end. It doesn't want to make that initial turn easily. You might consider a 90 degree connector except you can not get the coax, connector and the mount installed and slid into the pocket. My solution? Another hole... and you already know I don't take that lightly. BUT... there is one upside. If you set your mount at the same height or even a little lower as I did that heavy duty boot on the coax slides right into that hole. You will also notice some discoloration around the bottom of the stake pocket. That is a white paint marker. Every hole gets deburred and paint applied. I got to the bottom of that stake pocket blind since I'm not a contortionist and have a fat head. The end result is a nice straight coax run. So I'm up to three holes so far. What's one more between friends... Cables should be secure. If left to flop around at best they break. At worst (in my opinion) they chafe on body structures eventually removing paint and then promoting corrosion. Drill a hole for the cable clamp. Secure with a nice #8 body screw. That is the last hole for this project. (I lied, there are two more) Picture shows the transission from the bed to the cab. Nice gentle loops were made. The split loom stays static allowing the coax to move within it, but the coax will not be moving. Pic at the very back of the cab. Route coax through support structure. Add split loom Picture of the coax routed through the very front cab support brace before it makes a turn to head up towards the entry point in the A pillar. Add a zip tie to the emergency brake cable. Picture of the coax exiting the front support brace and making the turn up towards the entry in the A pillar. Single piece of split loom is used here all the way up to the entry point. Trying to get a good shot of where it enters the cab is challenging. But there is a body plug below the the main door wire harness. The plug can be easily accessed by removing the interior kick panel cover. Highly recommend using a 5/16" hollow punch to make the hole in the body plug. This makes a clean tight hole for the coax to run through. Picture of the coax finally making its way into the cab. Not pictured, but add split loom where it will be pressed against the notch in the sheet metal. I added it until it met the carpet. makes it look a little more factory. From there route the coax to the interior side of the emergency brake cable under the carpet. Continue keeping the coax to the interior side of the factory wire loom. Pictured is where the coax runs back to about the center of the front seat and makes its turn for the center of the truck. Picture of coax exiting under the drivers seat with the factory wiring, and my sub-woofer speaker wire. Finally here is the end of the run. Run the wire under the center section of the drivers side seat frame then you are ready to terminate on the radio. Routing the coax this way eliminated sharp bends. It is secure. Best of all it uses all 18' of coax. No excess coils tucked away somewhere. So at this point you saw a glimpse of the radio mount. Here is a better shot. Unfortunately I misplaced the pictures of the mount before it was installed. Here is a shot from the passenger side. On both seat mounts there are two holes in the inboard rails. On my passenger seat there is an existing bar tying the inboard and outboard rails together. I utilized the factory hardware to attach the 1" vertical flat bar. I removed that cross bar so I could use a transfer punch to get the hole locations in the 1" flat bar. You could just as easily hold the bar in place and mark from the rear with a sharpie. Now onto the radio mount plate. This is also where customization occurs depending on personal preferences radios, etc. My design allows for this. You will notice I used three bolts to secure the 16ga sheet metal. The idea is most anybody I know whom is into radios change them out frequently. Using a mechanical fastner here allows different plates to be made for any radio or preference. The plate can even remain with the radio since the bolts are spaced one inch from the edge and one in the center. No trial fitments for new plates. Radio mount bracket. You might be tempted to try and bend the flat bar to the desired dimensions. Unless you do that for a living don't even try it. Using the 2" flat bar I cut the tabs to the desired height, and the base to the desired width. I drilled the tab mount holes. Then I silver soldered them together. Yeah everything you see that doesn't have a visible fastener was silver soldered. It was kind of fun going that route. Don't like how a tab sits? Made a bad measurement? Little bit of heat and you take it off and make another. Something not quite straight, or maybe you want to angle the radio more than you thought. Little heat, and re-position. I have access to MIG and TIG, and can tell you silver soldering is a pretty good route to fabricate with. So the bracket is all 2" flat bar. That gets built as a unit. then I silver soldered that to the 16ga sheet metal. I placed a small bend in the sheet metal where they join. I did this to place the radio within easy reach (my hand almost falls right on it). It also improves the readability of the display. I debate on if I put enough angle on it, but I will probably leave it as is. For the grand finale? I mounted a remote speaker under the passenger seat. I cut a section of the 3/4" square tube long enough to match the speaker mount. The tube fits inside the brace U channel providing a square surface for the speaker mount to attach to. I decided to attach the square tube with 1/8" steel pop rivets. Drill the brace from the rear in order to hit the center of the rib. In the picture you can tell the right rivet head was peened. In the end both were peened and then painted. I wanted a smooth fastener so passengers couldn't catch a finger on a screw or bolt head. Well maybe a few more parting shots. 73 Everybody.

How to remove the Bosch VP44 Injection Pump the quick and easy way. Takes approximately 45 minutes for me to remove the VP44 Injection pump. Remove the Mopar1973Man Crankcase vent (if applicable) Using a 10mm socket remove the four air horn bolts and one dipstick bolt. Using a 7/16 or 11mm socket loosen the top clamp of the intake boot. Move the grid heater and intake horn out of your way. Pack a shop rag in the intake to prevent stuff from falling in the intake manifold. Using a 13mm socket loosen the 3 bolts holding the APPS sensor and unplug and move over toward the driver side fender. Now unplug the VP44 main connector and wire tap . This connector is a two step plug lock. Pull the release tab and wiggle the plug out then pull a bit more on the release and the plug should release fully. Now using a 10mm loosen the 3 bolts holding the 1,2,4 injection rail in place. Using a 3/4" wrench loosen 1,2,4 injection lines. Now remove 1,2,4 injection lines as a group. Using a 3/4" wrench remove the overflow valve banjo and remove your supply line (may differ from mine being a big line kit) Now remove the crankcase vent. Just unscrews normal right hand threads. Do not pry on the nipple. Use an oil filter wrench or a strap wrench to loosen stubborn vent covers. Now remove the pump shaft nut with a 1 1/16 inch socket. Be careful removing the nut and lock washer that you don't drop them down into the gear case. A stubby Phillips screwdriver and a magnet is handy you can slide it off the shaft onto the Phillips screwdriver. Using a 23mm socket roll the alternator towards the coolant bottle to bring the keyway on the pump gear to TDC position and then install your gear puller and pull the gear loose on the shaft. Now loosen the 3,5,6 lines but you do not have to remove the injection line set. Now you want to loosen the 2 bolts on the rear bracket with a 13mm socket. Now remove the 4 nuts holding the pump to the gear case. Now careful kick the 3,5,6 lines out there nipples towards the block. Now lightly pry the VP44 injection pump away from the case and remove. Check for the key in the shaft make sure its present. This is what you should have after removal...

Are Cold Air Intakes Worth it? There has always been a big hype about getting a cold air intake. Well its been brought to my attention that cold air intake doesn't work as expected on turbocharged engines. My second in command on the forum ISX is a wizard of sorts when it comes to figuring out math formulas and calculating different things on the Cummins engine. From his research in this, there is such a small difference in volume that you'll never see a measurable difference in power. Quote ISX post. I've run the numbers and had a temperature probe on the air filter and the highest I saw on a hill pulling the trailer at 100°F was 20 over (120°F). After plugging in all the numbers, you end up with a 0.5% gain in air mass in the cylinder when compared with what a cold air intake would provide (100°F air). As a reference, 0°F - 100°F ambient changes air mass by 21%... In other words, because of the intercooler, the cold air intake and heat shield stuff is null and void. You will never notice a 0.5% increase plus that is only under high load conditions, most of the time I was only seeing a 10°-15°F rise and in the winter, I saw almost no rise over ambient. Even if the temp was 50°F over ambient, it's still only 1.5% more air mass. It's all because of the intercooler. I know a lot of guys run heat shields and stuff and I'm not trying to say they are bad I'm just throwing the numbers out there. There could be something to how much boost is produced with hot air vs. colder air within the turbo. But turbo efficiency has more to do with it than anything IMO. So what I'm suggesting for the 2nd generation crowd is just get a BHAF for an air filter. As for colder intake temperatures you could upgrade intercoolers but the stock intercooler is already like 90% efficient. So there is going to little to no change in air temperatures with even a upgraded cooler. This will, of course, change as your performance demands change. But for mostly stock to mildly modified truck, the stock intercooler is going to work just fine. Typically for the 24 valve engine, there is a roughly +40°F temperature rise in the manifold because of the coolant jacket in the intake manifold. Also, the coolant jacket is within a few inches of the IAT sensor. So there is always going to be warmer air in the manifold.

Huge thanks to AKshooter for writing this up. Ok, recent thread on here drove me past the point of looking at wiring diagrams and giving direction. Somethings are just easier explained with pictures and tested against a known good working system. So in an effort to help others, I tore my own truck apart in the dark outside in Alaskan November temperatures with a few simple test tools, a head lamp and an IPhone camera so bare with me if the pictures aren't the greatest. I do prefer that testing be done test light when possible. A meter is useful tool but if you don't 100% completely know how to use/test with it you can easily be lead in the wrong direction. Just throwing that out there from 11 years now of turning wrenches for a living. See it happen all the time. No current flow no voltage drop. Testing circuits when they are loaded is best. First of all you are going to have to look at a diagram, going to make you. On this diagram we can see - Powertrain Control Module or PCM - Controls Alternator Fields (Turns the alternator on/off) - Power Distribution Center or PDC - Fuse box under the hood - The Generator or Alternator - If you need this explained.... 1. There is a Black/Grey Wire between the Gen/Alt and the PDC which contains the 140amp fuse and then a red wire to the battery. This is the large charge wire that electricity flows from the Gen/Alt to the 140amp fuse in the PDC and onto the battery. This is the large wire on the large stud on your Gen/Alt and you should have battery voltage or alternator output voltage on this stud. Check the fuse if you don't, or wires associated with that circuit. 2. Now into the meat of things, there are two wires from the PCM to the Alternator. - Here is the two pin plug that plugs into the back of the Alternator, notice the Green and Dark Blue Wires. - The dark blue wire is the voltage supply to the Generator fields. Meaning this is a positive wire and should have 12V on a meter or light a test light like this when the test light is hooked to battery negative as in the picture. (A meter would be the same with the negative lead) Engine MUST be running, key on engine off does not work for this test. *For demonstration purposes pictures are taken with engine off so the test light is not lit in these photo's.* - The green wire is the control wire, meaning the PCM grounds this wire to turn on or off the alternator fields (DO NOT THINK YOU CAN JUST JUMP THIS TO GROUND FOREVER TO BYPASS THE PCM IT WILL FRY LOTS OF STUFF BECAUSE THE ALTERNATOR WILL BE FULL FIELDED TO 16+ VOLTS) This is a ground circuit so with the truck running a test light or meter hooked to battery positive should show 12V or light like this. If you have power on the blue wire while the engine is running and can hook 12v to ground on the green wire while the engine is running and voltage on the large stud your alternator is bad, but if you don't have one of the other......... This is where the PCM lives behind your air filter box, notice I removed mine for better access, TURN THE KEY OFF before disconnecting The connector closest to the passenger side is the Grey C3 connector. The Connector in the middle is the White C2 connector. Reference the wiring diagram at the PCM. We are concerned with pin 25 in the Grey C3 connector as it is the opposite end of the dark blue wire at the alternator. We are also concerned with pin 10 of the White C3 connector as it is the opposite end of the green wire at the alternator. NOTE - The connectors have a locking tab on the top and bottom, do not force, use shop air if need to blow out dirt so the locks release and you can unhook the connectors. Noticed the pins are numbered, double and triple check your are on the correct pin when testing. Grey C3 shown here White C2 shown here Now using your meter set it to continuity or resistance test and check between pin 25 in the Grey C3 connector and the BLUE wire pin at the alternator plug. There should be a connection between these two pins. Next test the Pin 10 of the White C2 connector to the GREEN wire pin at the alternator plug. There should be a connection between these two pins. Meters vary from make to make as to what they will read (some beep) when showing continuity vs an open circuit. Simple test is to simply look at what the meter says when the leads are not touching each other..... like this. VS With the leads touching each other. (no resistance, good connection) This is what you want to see when testing both of your wires between the PCM and Alt plug Now if these wires both test good, more than likely your PCM is bad. To be 100% positive it is the PCM, I would pull the plastic cover off of the C2 and C3 connectors and back probe the blue and green wires and see if you have 12Vs that way, this would eliminate the entire harness and test only the PCM. How you go about fixing the issue is up to you. With the manual transmission trucks that is all these two wires do. BUT with the Automatic trucks notice in the diagram that the BLUE wire also powers the transmission relay through a splice. I'll try to update this with information as to PCM repair or external voltage regulator solutions. Now if these wires both test good, more than likely your PCM is bad. To be 100% positive it is the PCM, I would pull the plastic cover off of the C2 and C3 connectors and back probe the blue and green wires with the harnesses plugged in and see if you have 12Vs that way, this would eliminate the entire harness and test only the PCM. How you go about fixing the issue is up to you. With the manual transmission trucks that is all these two wires do. BUT with the Automatic trucks notice in the diagram that the BLUE wire also powers the transmission relay through a splice. I'll try to update this with information as to PCM repair or external voltage regulator solutions. Hope it answers some questions. Engine running for testing at the plug. Key off before unhooking PCM.

Stock APPS Sensor Voltage Adjustment I just had a wonderful phone conversation with Rburks this morning and his chasing his problems with his idle well he happens to mention the fact he did the APPS sensor voltage adjustment and I like "OMG not again!" There is an article on the Internet that is written up wrong and need to be corrected and/or stopped being used. To clear this up more... (The best I can) The fact is that the stock APPS sensor is a rheostat yes. But APPS sensor is set at a particular voltage for the electronic switches inside that reports to the ECM if it at IDLE or THROTTLING. If the APPS sensor voltage rises above the voltage listed on the tag the switch changes to THROTTLING. Then when the voltage drops BELOW the voltage on the tag then the ECM switches to IDLING. This means the APPS sensor voltage is disregarded and idling software of the ECM takes over control of the Bosch VP44 injection. NOW... The Timbo APPS sensor... There is no set voltage tag because the switch for ON IDLE and THROTTLING is mechanical this means once the APPS sensor bellcrank gets to a particular angle THROTTLING starts regardless of voltage. So there is no voltage to adjust the APPS sensor to just a matter of taking the slack out of the APPS sensor bellcrank. So now you know why you DON'T set the APPS sensor for EXACTLY the tag voltage because now the APPS sensor idle validation switches will constantly flip back and forth between IDLING and THROTTLING causing issues with exhaust brakes, high idle software, etc. It's not about the voltage, it's about the fact of the APPS sensor Idle validation switch state... Problem #1 - Voltage on label Everyone is trying to hit APPS sensor voltage dead on what's on the tag... DON'T! This is the voltage that the APPS sensor goes from ON idle start to OFF idle state. Your voltage MUST be BELOW this number. Like on mine, the APPS sensor voltage is .519. Don't set the voltage at this set it below this mark say .480 to .490 because as you add in voltage gain or loss during normal operation of the truck it might cross the mark and go off idle and you end up with idle set at 950 to 1000. Then find out your exhaust brake, high idle and a few other things don't work! WARNING! STOP! Don't set the APPS sensor voltage to the voltage on the label this is WRONG! Like the Timbo APPS sensor, you adjust to the point you cross the dead zone and back off below this point 1/2 turn. The reason why is to keep the APPS from accidentally going to OFF idle state. As long as the voltage in the APPS sensor is below this state the ON idle signal is given to the ECM and the APPS signal is basically ignored and idle programming is used. Now if the alternator or voltage of the system changes a little bit you going to have issues of the voltage crossing back and forth over this boundary. Please set your voltage BELOW what on the tag by about 0.020 volts to ensure the voltage is low enough to put the APPS sensor in ON Idle state. If this was my truck to set I would set the voltage for .480 volts at the APPS sensor plug. Problem #2 - Where to measure the voltage? I do know why they started to measure the voltage at the PCM in concerns of the torque converter lockup problem, but this is wrong too. Now if you go over to my wiring diagrams here... And now look at Page 1 and look at the PCM on the right at pin #23 you see its labeled ACC PEDAL POS. You think this is tied to the APPS sensor?! Nope... Now switch back to page 3 now at look at the ECM on the right you find the wire at pin #28 on the ECM label ACC PEDAL POS SENS... But now look at all 3 pages this Orange/Blue wire doesn't connect to the APPS sensor at all, but it does pass the information to the PCM after it passes through the ECM (if there is any processing). So now look at Pin #25 on the ECM and you'll see it has a direct connection with the APPS. So if I was going to adjust the stock APPS sensor for voltage I would measure right at the APPS sensor or at the ECM pin #25 which happen to be light blue/black wire pin #3 on the APPS. WARNING! STOP! Don't measure the APPS sensor voltage at the PCM this is WRONG! Measure the APPS sensor voltage at the APPS sensor like Timbo does to if you're going for better measure it at the ECM. By the time you measure the voltage at the PCM there might be a minor voltage loss so the voltage at the ECM will be high so hence most people complain about high idle and other issues! The picture above is of Timbo's APPS sensor setup, but the wire color for a stock APPS sensor is Light Blue stripped black pin #3 of the stock APPS. The picture below is of the logic circuit within the stock OE APPS sensor and which you setting the voltage for not the PCM or ECM. This doesn't exist in the Timbo's APPS sensor. Problem #3 - How to adjust the APPS sensor? There is no need to yank the APPS sensor apart and mess with the 2 Torx screw on the back you can obtain all the adjustment you want in the set screw on the bellcrank. But once again don't adjust for the voltage marked on the label... Make sure to flick the APPS sensor bellcrank to WOT and let it snap back to idle a few times and check you voltage again if the voltage is changing constantly the APPS sensor is wore out and no amount of adjusting is going to fix this problem. Replacement of the APPS sensor is required. WARNING! STOP! Don't bother messing with the 2 Torx screw just adjust the set screw on the bellcrank. The problem with adjusting the APPS sensor by loosen the 2 Torx screw will now mess with the high side limit so since most of the time you are adjusting higher and find that now you can't get a full span of throttle you might come up to 5% short of WOT position. But if you just use the set screw on the bellcrank you won't effect the high side limit. Actually, once again there is no reason to adjust the APPS at the PCM... PCM has no bearing on the engine... The only thing the PCM wants to see is throttle position for an automatic transmission for shift point reasons and the PCM feed throttle information to the ECM for cruise control for later model Cummins. Still and all the ECM is more important to get the voltage value right. Problem #4 - Beware Of Out Dated Procedures After working with Timbo to understand and learning the differences of the Timbo APPS sensor and the OE APPS sensor. What I found out is that the voltage number on the label is the point at which the IVS (Idle validation Switches) toggle their position with reference to sensor ground. This why I'm warning about outdated procedures like the one over at CF.com . Being that this article is highly used and wrong, it will produce a very poor adjustment of the APPS sensor. Why? Well, the procedure requires measuring the voltage all the way at the PCM. By the time the voltage is passed to the ECM and then back out to the PCM it's lower than APPS original signal which is typical so by the time you compensate for it now the voltage is too high for the APPS sensor and its stuck in throttling mode. Please don't use this proceed linked above it will cause problems for the APPS sensor!

Emergency Brake / Parking Brake Adjustment This procedure is for rear disc brake trucks. 2001.5+ model years. First block the front tires so the truck can't roll. Then jack up the rear axle of the truck till the tires are off the ground. Use jack stand under the rear axle. Don't set the brake! SAFETY FIRST! Now crawl under truck. The picture shown here is the driver side axle hub. There will be a notch in the bracket and in the notch is a rubber plug. You'll need a pair of needle nose pliers to reach in and pull the plug out. Now take a flashlight and look in the notch and you'll see a star wheel. You need to use a flat blade screwdriver to turn the star wheel. Check the wheel for drag by turning. If the shoes start to drag back it off a click or two. Then double check to see if it dragging again. Now do the other side the same way. Replace the rubber plugs. Now your done. Which direction to turn the star wheel to tighten? That's a simple answer. In the picture above you would want to be turning the star wheel downward away from the axle to tighten the brakes up. so basically this holds true for both sides. So the passenger side you would want to turn it down and away from the axle. If you reverse this you'll loosen the shoes up. Remember to check for rolling slack they shouldn't drag at all! Here is a few more pics so you can understand the setup better.

How To Reset / Calibrate Your APPS Sensor WARNING! Any time the batteries are disconnected, batteries ran dead, ECM disconnected, Accelerator Pedal Position Sensor (APPS Sensor) disconnected, Accelerator Pedal Position Sensor (APPS Sensor) replaced the Accelerator Pedal Position Sensor (APPS Sensor) calibration procedure MUST be done again to reset the Accelerator Pedal Position Sensor (APPS Sensor) idle and WOT limits. If the calibration is not done error codes and other issues must occur. 1. Disconnect the batteries and leave disconnected for at least 30 minutes. Now reconnect the batteries. 2. Turn key to ON position. (Do not Start) 3. Without starting engine, slowly press throttle pedal to floor and then slowly release. This step must be done (one time)>to ensure accelerator pedal position sensor calibration has been learned by ECM. If not done, possible DTC’s may be set. 4. Turn the key OFF. NOTE: Disconnecting the batteries will not erase or reset error codes. All it does is erase the Accelerator Pedal Position Sensor (APPS Sensor) calibration in the ECM. As the video below will demostrate.

DTC P0320: NO CRANK REFERENCE SIGNAL AT PCM 1. Start engine and allow engine to idle. Using scan tool, read engine speed at PCM. Compare engine speed displayed on scan tool with engine speed on tachometer. If engine speed on scan tool is not within 100 RPM of engine speed on tachometer, go to next step. If engine speed on scan tool is within 100 RPM of engine speed on tachometer, DTC is inactive at this time. Shut engine off. Inspect ECM and PCM for damaged pins or terminals. ECM is located on driver's side of engine, just in front of fuel transfer pump and contains a 50-pin connector. PCM is located at passenger's side rear corner of engine compartment. Repair or replace components as necessary. Perform TEST VER-5A . 2. Shut engine off. Ensure ignition is off. Using voltmeter, backprobe terminal No. 8 (Gray/Black wire) on PCM connector C1. This is the crankshaft position (CKP) sensor signal circuit at PCM. Turn ignition on with engine off and note voltage reading. If voltage is more than 4.75 volts, leave voltmeter connected and go to next step. If voltage is 4.75 volts or less, go to step 6 . 3. Turn ignition off. Ensure voltmeter is still backprobing terminal No. 8 (Gray/Black wire) on PCM connector C1. Start engine and allow engine to idle. Note voltage reading with engine idling. If voltage is not 2-3 volts, leave voltmeter connected and go to next step. If voltage is 2-3 volts, replace PCM. Perform TEST VER-5A . 4. Shut engine off. Ensure ignition is off. Ensure voltmeter is still backprobing terminal No. 8 (Gray/Black wire) on PCM connector C1. Turn ignition on with engine off and note voltage reading. If voltage is 6 volts or less, go to next step. If voltage is more than 6 volts, repair short to voltage on Gray/Black wire between terminal No. 45 (Gray/Black wire) on ECM connector and terminal No. 8 (Gray/Black wire) on PCM connector C1. Perform TEST VER-5A . 5. Turn ignition off. Disconnect ECM and PCM connectors. Using ohmmeter, check resistance between terminal No. 45 (Gray/Black wire) on ECM connector and terminal No. 8 (Gray/Black wire) on PCM connector C1. If resistance is less than 5 ohms, replace ECM. Perform TEST VER-5A . If resistance is 5 ohms or more, repair open on Gray/Black wire between ECM and PCM. Perform TEST VER-5A . 6. Turn ignition off. Disconnect ECM and PCM connectors. Using ohmmeter, check resistance between ground and terminal No. 45 (Gray/Black wire) on ECM connector. If resistance is 5 ohms or more, replace ECM. Perform TEST VER-5A . If resistance is less than 5 ohms, repair short to ground on Gray/Black wire between ECM and PCM. Perform TEST VER-5A .