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Electric Vacuum Pump Conversion: I have deleted my OEM vacuum and power steering pump(s). Instead, I have modified it by replacing it with a midrange setup for steering assist; however, I still need vacuum in order to activate the HVAC controls and to activate my exhaust brake. Although the OEM factory pump never gave me any issues and supplied all the vacuum I needed to work, such as the HVAC and the exhaust brake, the OEM Power Steering did. I have replaced the OEM Power Steering Pump multiple times. In all cases, the pump would not maintain enough pressure and turning the wheels at a stop during idle was almost impossible. Compound that with the inevitable oil leak between both pumps, I figured there was a better system. So, this is where the "midrange" setup comes into play. The 24V ISB was used in multiple applications (not just Dodge). Even though they were not used in another pickup, they were used in midrange sized trucks like Freightliner FL60 &FL80, Ford 650 & 750, Kenworth 370, motor homes, bread trucks, etc, etc. It was the engine of its era. Trucks with vacuum controlled cruise should work also. This particular modification applies to my setup only; (the midrange setup for steering assist). My cruise is ECM controlled. I have the non CAD front axle, so my vacuum demand is limited. On SD applications, they use it to lock the front hubs and HVAC on their trucks. So I feel it should work on any of our vehicles. I used the same pump from the SuperDuty and 3rd Gen RAMS (same pump). I picked it up from Rock Auto along with a Mating Connector. I drilled 3 holes and mounted it on the fuse box cover, in an easy to service spot. For plumbing, it goes to a control manifold for the EB, and tees off into the OEM vacuum line on the firewall. I do not use a reservoir like FORD uses, but you could run one if you desire it. For power, it gets fused voltage from the PDC power stud, which is also the relay supply power (pin 30). The relay trigger is controlled by a fuse tap in one of the PDC fuses, that is hot only when the key is on, so it does not run all the time. The pump has an internal governor, so when it reaches its vacuum threshhold, it shuts off. If it is always running, you most likely have a leak that you need to repair first.

This is a tech article regarding those who (like me) think the oem spot for the apps is not ideal. Exposed to outside elements, heat, vibration and potential corrosion, moving it inside was most practical. Non Dodge/ midrange applications of Cummins 5.9 24V ISB’s all have their TPS/APPS inside the cab, mounted on the pedal assembly. So nothing is changing on the apps operation, just moving it. This mod does not works on trucks that are auto/use vacuum for cruise. The auto trans kickdown cable is attached to the bellcrank assembly. As with the vacuum solenoid setup too so if you can live without them then it will work. Parts needed: 699-5101 pedal assembly (2x) 6 pin Duetsch connectors kits Zip ties Grommet 6’ of 6 wire harness Tools needed: Duetsch connector terminal pliers Wire strippers Making the mount will be up to you. I can show you pictures on how I made mine but it’s just a one off. Either way you need to mount it inside. First, disconnect the 6 pin Duetsch connector from the apps, remove the bellcrank assembly from the cylinder head. Cut off the cable and discard. The oem pedal assembly will need to be removed and the oem mount has a pivot pin on the bottom that’ll twist out with some channel lock pliers. Once you mount your new pedal to the mount and it’s installed all that is needed is how to control via ecm. So a 6 wire jumper harness is needed. I would HIGHLY recommend removing and tossing the apps that comes supplied with the new pedal and install your current one in its place. I can’t guarantee its quality. If you need an apps, a Williams Control 131973 or 133284 will work perfectly (Timbo is just a repackaged WC). Available from any oem truck dealer (I.e. Kenworth or Freightliner). On your engine side of your harness you need to make a 6 pin male Duetsch connector. Ensure you new connector kits have the locks in them, some kits do not come with them for some reason. YouTube or Google can provide a video on how to use Duetsch connector pliers, they’re super easy to use. Using the hole in firewall that the original pull cable went through install a grommet to prevent rubbing and feed your harness through. If you prefer to drill a hole the same size of the connector body you’ll need a 7/8” drill bit. **It’s easier to make the harness, THEN crimp the new terminals on after feeding it through the oem firewall hole for a cleaner look.** Cut your 6 wire harness to length and crimp on the terminals, install the connector body and plug it in. Theoretically the engine doesn’t know where the apps is so it will work. Make sure you mate up each wire in its proper spot on each connector, if you mess them up a CEL will come on/non functionality of the apps. Secure the harness to various points with zip ties so it’s rigid. This provides a clean look and more room in the engine compartment for future servicing. Start the engine and test. Throttle response should be crisp since there is no cable anymore that has slack as it wore.

After 18 years of interesting CTD enthusiasts and transmission specialty outlets all contributing their method, or fix, to the well known TC lock unlock syndrome, I can no longer remain silent. Extensive review of many posts regarding TC lock unlock, the rerouting methodes, the add on filters for APPS and last, but not least,...the "tin-foil hat" brigade. I do realize that each individual or company that contributed to the vast amount of information on the web had good intentions and I must acknowledge that some of the procedures caused me to closely examine what these people were trying to do. I believe it is well known that even a blind mouse occasionally finds a morsel of cheese. Again, as it is well known @Mopar1973Man was the only entity who positively identified the instigating source of this key issue. My entry today is not about alternators...it is about what Daimler/Chrysler did in regard to production of these Cummins powered platforms and the complete disregard of common sense Electronic Engineering. Please note, this applies to automatic and manual transmissions as each platform is plagued in the same manor with different quirks. This Blk/Tan #8 gage wire is quite critical in the scheme of things. It is contained within a 1" plastic conduit passing along the front of the engine. It contains water temp sensor leads, air conditioning leads, alternator/PCM leads and the #6 gage alternator charge line to the PDC. This #8 gage Blk/Tan passes over the top/backend of the alternator and is "eventually" connected to the Auxiliary Battery (passenger side) negative terminal. This snapshot of the Factory Service manual documents "four critical ground leads" that are "spliced" in an unconventional method. This photo depicts the three #18 gage wires and the single #14 gage wire entering the shrink-tubing where the "crush-splice" occurs. This bundle exits the large plastic conduit below the VP44 This again is a most disturbing depiction of the Daimler/Chrysler method of splicing critical ground leads and then routing this across the top of the alternator and "eventually" bringing this to ground reference. This photo depicts where this #8 gage Blk/Tan first connects on the way to "eventual" ground...yes this is the Auxiliary Battery tray connector. Please note: it is spliced again and joins the PCM circuit board grounds...which are critical in their own nature...and "eventually" terminate at the negative post of the Auxiliary Battery's negative terminal. This photo is very interesting, it is the Factory Service manual and the assembly line documentation follows this as a road map in the matrix during production. Please NOTE the title "NAME" to each battery...I looked at this for a considerable amount of time before I realized the assembly line coordinators tried to work with the documentation from the Engineering Staff to "make it as it looks"...Could this single oversight be the reason of a four foot ten inch critical ground wire combination traveling the distance to "EVENTUALLY" terminate at ground? From a basic engineering standpoint regarding ground...you "NEVER CHOOSE THE PATH OF EVENTUAL GROUND" !!! It is to be the shortest and most concise connection in reference to ground...this is biblical in ALL ELECTRONICS...including pickup trucks. ! Here is the Factory Service manual documenting the PCM circuit board reference ground starting as a pair of #14 gage wires being spliced into a #10 gage bundle and arriving at the Auxiliary Battery through another connector that joins a #8 gage wire that is "splice-joined" under plastic conduit in a Y configuration joining the rouge #8 gage "after passing over the alternator" traversing the entire engine compartment from the driver side of the vehicle. Seriously I have been drinking excessively, most recently, due to the nature of this blatant discovery. This is the hidden Y splice at the Auxiliary Battery where the "mess" EVENTUALLY terminates for ground reference. This photo shows the correct "HOLE" of where to apply ground for the VP44, ECM and the PDC...note the logical location It took a little research to find the size and proper thread-pitch. Metric M5 with a 5/16" hex head is perfect This is where you apply a fresh "quality" #6 gage ground and terminate this at the Main Battery negative post on the drivers side for absolute ground reference for the VP44 and ECM This is a very short and concise reference to ground. This is the corrected procedure for a rather critical ground. The two largest wires originally contained within the 1 inch conduit are no longer present and located well away from the alternator. My alternator B+ "charge" line is now a #4 gage line directly connected to the Auxiliary Battery and when my new battery terminals arrive and they are secured, I'll provide photos of a completed Master Power Supply System within this engine bay. With these corrections, I would hypothesize that a poor ripple specification on a given alternator would be overcome by the immense capacitance of the parallel batteries and would become less prone to causing the dreaded TC lock/unlock for automatics and cruise-control abnormalities for the manual transmission platforms. The #8 gage Blk/Tan passing over the alternator as an "EVENTUAL" ground is gone...the PCM, ECM, VP44 and the PDC are now grounded in accordance of standard Electronic Engineering practices. Respectfully W-T

I don't do much on the forums anymore, but I thought somebody might benefit from documenting what I consider a proper radio installation for a 2nd generation Ram. Honestly it will probably be almost identical for any extended cab Ram. I purposely built this using materials anybody can get from the big box stores and truck stop radio supplies. Materials List: Qty 1: 3/4 in. x 36 in. Plain Steel Square Tube with 1/16 in. Thick Qty 1: 1 in. x 36 in. Plain Steel Flat Bar with 1/8 in. Thick Qty 1: 2 in. x 36 in. Plain Steel Flat Bar with 1/8 in. Thick Qty 1: 6 in. x 18 in. 16-Gauge Plain Steel Sheet Metal Qty 2: M8 1.25 20mm Bolt Qty 2: M8 1.25 Nut Qty 2: M8 Flat Washer Qty 2: 5/16 x 3/4" Bolt Qty 1: Wilson 305-830 18' Belden Coax Cable with PL-259/FME Connectors Qty 1: TruckSpec TS-101ADLN Thin Double Groove Mirror Mount with SO-239 Stud Connector Qty 1: 1/4" Split wire loom Qty 1: 3/8" Rubber Insulated Metal Clamp Qty 1: 6" Zip Tie (yes only one) Qty 1: #8 x 3/4" Phillips Washer HD Tapping Screw Balkamp 665-2837 Qty 1: FireStik K-1A Push-n-Twist quick disconnect (this is required) Starting with the antenna: 3' Firestik II Looking down the stake pocket: What the antenna mount looks like. You will be tempted to buy the larger four bolt mount. Don't as you can not get it in the pocket. Even this little guy takes some fiddling to get it down there. In the item list are two 5/6" bolts. This is part of the trick getting everything to fit. Separate the clamp, then you have to tap the antenna side holes to accept the 5/16" bolt. This serves two purposes. 1. You have zero chance of getting a nut on a bolt inside the stake pocket. 2. It reduces the possibility of hardware physically interfering with the coax. Things are tight in there. To make this work you have to assemble the now threaded mount, the firestik quick connect and the coax in one shot. Anything that has to be tightened to the mount must be done so prior to dropping it into the stake pocket. Here comes the painful part. Drilling holes. These are the very first holes I have ever drilled in this truck. Antennas are about the only reason I will punch a hole in a vehicle. Per the picture you can see I used the outer clamp from the bracket. This serves a couple purposes. 1. Expands the clamping area to provide better support for the mast and reducing the possibility of metal fatigue. If you don't have a bed liner grounding will also be improved. 2. It acts as a spacer to keeping the bolt protrusion to a minimum. Use a step drill bit anytime you are drilling sheet metal. Much cleaner holes. The holes are over sized in the bed to provide adjust-ability to aid vertical antenna placement. Drill the top hole first. Attach the bolt and clamp on the inside of the bed. Use that to locate where the bottom hole should be located. Then drill the bottom hole. Now we have to think about coax routing. You will be tempted to route the coax through the oval opening to the outside of the bed. This could be done, but I don't recommend it. At least not using the coax I identified in the material list. It is good coax, and has a really good strain relief boot for the antenna end. It doesn't want to make that initial turn easily. You might consider a 90 degree connector except you can not get the coax, connector and the mount installed and slid into the pocket. My solution? Another hole... and you already know I don't take that lightly. BUT... there is one upside. If you set your mount at the same height or even a little lower as I did that heavy duty boot on the coax slides right into that hole. You will also notice some discoloration around the bottom of the stake pocket. That is a white paint marker. Every hole gets deburred and paint applied. I got to the bottom of that stake pocket blind since I'm not a contortionist and have a fat head. The end result is a nice straight coax run. So I'm up to three holes so far. What's one more between friends... Cables should be secure. If left to flop around at best they break. At worst (in my opinion) they chafe on body structures eventually removing paint and then promoting corrosion. Drill a hole for the cable clamp. Secure with a nice #8 body screw. That is the last hole for this project. (I lied, there are two more) Picture shows the transission from the bed to the cab. Nice gentle loops were made. The split loom stays static allowing the coax to move within it, but the coax will not be moving. Pic at the very back of the cab. Route coax through support structure. Add split loom Picture of the coax routed through the very front cab support brace before it makes a turn to head up towards the entry point in the A pillar. Add a zip tie to the emergency brake cable. Picture of the coax exiting the front support brace and making the turn up towards the entry in the A pillar. Single piece of split loom is used here all the way up to the entry point. Trying to get a good shot of where it enters the cab is challenging. But there is a body plug below the the main door wire harness. The plug can be easily accessed by removing the interior kick panel cover. Highly recommend using a 5/16" hollow punch to make the hole in the body plug. This makes a clean tight hole for the coax to run through. Picture of the coax finally making its way into the cab. Not pictured, but add split loom where it will be pressed against the notch in the sheet metal. I added it until it met the carpet. makes it look a little more factory. From there route the coax to the interior side of the emergency brake cable under the carpet. Continue keeping the coax to the interior side of the factory wire loom. Pictured is where the coax runs back to about the center of the front seat and makes its turn for the center of the truck. Picture of coax exiting under the drivers seat with the factory wiring, and my sub-woofer speaker wire. Finally here is the end of the run. Run the wire under the center section of the drivers side seat frame then you are ready to terminate on the radio. Routing the coax this way eliminated sharp bends. It is secure. Best of all it uses all 18' of coax. No excess coils tucked away somewhere. So at this point you saw a glimpse of the radio mount. Here is a better shot. Unfortunately I misplaced the pictures of the mount before it was installed. Here is a shot from the passenger side. On both seat mounts there are two holes in the inboard rails. On my passenger seat there is an existing bar tying the inboard and outboard rails together. I utilized the factory hardware to attach the 1" vertical flat bar. I removed that cross bar so I could use a transfer punch to get the hole locations in the 1" flat bar. You could just as easily hold the bar in place and mark from the rear with a sharpie. Now onto the radio mount plate. This is also where customization occurs depending on personal preferences radios, etc. My design allows for this. You will notice I used three bolts to secure the 16ga sheet metal. The idea is most anybody I know whom is into radios change them out frequently. Using a mechanical fastner here allows different plates to be made for any radio or preference. The plate can even remain with the radio since the bolts are spaced one inch from the edge and one in the center. No trial fitments for new plates. Radio mount bracket. You might be tempted to try and bend the flat bar to the desired dimensions. Unless you do that for a living don't even try it. Using the 2" flat bar I cut the tabs to the desired height, and the base to the desired width. I drilled the tab mount holes. Then I silver soldered them together. Yeah everything you see that doesn't have a visible fastener was silver soldered. It was kind of fun going that route. Don't like how a tab sits? Made a bad measurement? Little bit of heat and you take it off and make another. Something not quite straight, or maybe you want to angle the radio more than you thought. Little heat, and re-position. I have access to MIG and TIG, and can tell you silver soldering is a pretty good route to fabricate with. So the bracket is all 2" flat bar. That gets built as a unit. then I silver soldered that to the 16ga sheet metal. I placed a small bend in the sheet metal where they join. I did this to place the radio within easy reach (my hand almost falls right on it). It also improves the readability of the display. I debate on if I put enough angle on it, but I will probably leave it as is. For the grand finale? I mounted a remote speaker under the passenger seat. I cut a section of the 3/4" square tube long enough to match the speaker mount. The tube fits inside the brace U channel providing a square surface for the speaker mount to attach to. I decided to attach the square tube with 1/8" steel pop rivets. Drill the brace from the rear in order to hit the center of the rib. In the picture you can tell the right rivet head was peened. In the end both were peened and then painted. I wanted a smooth fastener so passengers couldn't catch a finger on a screw or bolt head. Well maybe a few more parting shots. 73 Everybody.

HE351ve Holset VGT Controller This article is for the standalone controller / tuner needed to control a Holset HE351 ve He351 VGT turbo from a 6.7 Cummins. This controller will help you tune the holset he351ve vgt turbo for your truck. It is is %100 open source you can tune the turbo in any manner you like. It will take some trial and error to tune the holet he351vgt, but the pay off is worth it. The he351ve really shines when it comes to low end power and having a flat torque curve. He351ve Airflow Specs The reason for wanting this turbo comparted to another aftermarket turbo are, Increased flow over a hx35 turbo ( 60lb/min to 69 lb/min) built in Exhaust Brake functions, Cheap turbo cost, fast spooling, and good mpg's if you have it tuned right. For a 5.9 Cummins the he351ve makes a great towing turbo for hp levels up to 500. It will be hot at 500hp but it is possible, not recommended, but possible. This should also work for He451 ve vgt or other Holset variable Geometery turbos. 551 431 turbos There is a certain amount of DIY needed to get this setup on your truck. You will need to learn the arduino system, how to wire it, power it, etc etc etc. Basic Video Here is a Video of the basic code and how it works with the VGT turbo If you read through this and have ANY questions, feel free to Post to the Ongoing thread covering the progress on this project You can Find the Forum Link HERE Parts: Here are the list of parts that are used. you can void the code to use one or all of the sensors, but this list is for everything. Arduino uno: http://www.amazon.com/Arduino-Board-Module-With-ATmega328P/dp/B008GRTSV6 $25 Canbus Shield: http://www.amazon.com/CAN-BUS-Shield-Compatible-Arduino-Seeeduino/dp/B00NQVH666 $40 Exhaust/boost sensor 0-100 psi: http://www.auberins....products_id=271x2 if you want to control the turbo on both exhaust and boost. $56 a piece and they come with 3 wire pigtails. Potentiometer push pull 10k linear: Mouser Link $15 Momentary on button switch: havent picked one up yet that I like. Currently using a computer button. Wire: 16 gauge should be fine 100' should be enough, ensure to get good quality wire Connectors: I used 2x DT06-12SA and 2 x DT06-12PA along with all hardware, ebay link LCD Screen: I used a 4x20 screen with a I2C adapter. Searching EBAY should find you one. Click link to see search. Turbo Connector 4 pin: Mouser Connector Link 54200410-B Pins 10762770 Turbo RPM Connector: Mouser Connector Link PN: 282087-1 Software: You will need to download the Arduino program: Arduino - Software You will need the libraries that I use. You can Download them all from My Google Drive Download the Canbus library: Dropbox - CANLibrarymaster.zip (thanks to Farm828) download the LCD Library: Dropbox - LiquidCrystal.zip Download the Freqmeasure library https://www.dropbox.com/s/yv98sgdllckc9z4/FreqMeasure.zip?dl=0 Download the Timer library https://www.dropbox.com/s/xa0lxny0pftdi6h/Timer-master.zip?dl=0 Basic starter Code downloaded here: Dropbox - HE351VE_Control.ino (thanks to Farm828) This is the code from CF without my changes You can edit the code by voiding the sensors "//" you are using in the right section, defined. My code has changed significantly from the above. How to Connect everything I will go into some detail here. First basics of the arduino uno and cabus_ shield. Arduino boards allow you to "stack" shields onto it via the pins on the outside edge of the board. Each Pin on the arduino and shield correlate to the Pins the code below. You can think of the Arduino as a Small computer and the Shield as a device to perform another specific task, like WIFI or Audio or in this Case Communicate on a Canbus Network. Stacking the shield onto the Arduino allows the arduino to talk in Canbus. First is the Arduino Uno Next is the Can bus Shield that you stack on top Together they should look like this. notice how they are connected, stacked on top of each other with the pins from the shield extending into the Arduino board. Each Shield will use some pins so your code must take that into consideration. Just as an example the can bus shield might use pin 10 and 11 ( I dont remember off the top of my head) so in your code you can't address those pins outside of the canbus shield use. Next you will need to connect all the wires to the sensors. I used some weather proof plugs to make my arduino detachable from the rest of the wiring harness. You will need to figure out a way to connect your harness to the arduino. I used a shield to do this like this. Now for actually connecting the wires from the sensor to the board you will need 3 wires for boost -5v -Sensor return ( pin A0) -Ground 3 wires for Drive -5v -Sensor return ( pinA1) -Ground 3 wires for Pot -5v -Sensor return ( pin A2) -Ground 1 wire for TPS -Sensor return ( pin A3) 2 wires for PotSwitch -Ground return ( pin D2) -Ground 2 wires for EBSwitch -Ground return ( pin D9) -Ground 4 wires for LCD screen -5v -Ground -SCL ( Pin A5) -SDA ( Pin A4) 2 wires for The turbo Shaft speed input -positive signal ( goes to the 9924 chip) -Neg signal ( goes to the 9924 Chip) -Output from pin 7 of 9924 chip to pin 8 of the arduino. Here is an example from www.Arduino.cc of how to wire a simple pot/sensor. you can see 5v. ground, and the sense return going to pin 2 Keep in mind some shields provide more 5v outputs and grounds than others. You can splice the grounds together and run them into one or a couple grounds on the arduino. The Code He351ve Boost/Drive Controlled My basic code is as follows for controlling the he351ve using boost and drive.. You can change it / use it / do whatever you like. You can download the tab'd version of the boost controlled code HERE Keep in mind that it is VERY easy to overspeed the he351ve turbo. Holset rates the turbo to 130,000 rpm. Using the code below I was seeing speeds of up to 160,000 rpm. ENSURE you tune the turbo for your fueling. I found that it is nearly impossible to manage the turbo efficently without using shaft speed so I do not recommend driving the turbo on this code. You will run into egt issues, you will run into shaft speed issues. the boost map code is no longer updated so the version that is hosted is what you get. I have noted in the code as much as I could,. The basic run down for what this code allows is. - During normal driving it will allow you to choose from 3 different boost maps, performance, daily, and Economy by using the pot, with the switch off, to have low/mid/high input from the pot. Vein position is managed by the boostmap until 30 psi is hit. after 30 psi boost the program will switch over to DPmanage and it will attempt to keep drive pressure at 50psi ( defined by code "maxexhaustpressure") which keeps drive to boost ratio within check, 40psi boost theory max 50 theory max drive 40psi/50psi gives a ratio 1.25:1. the HE351 turbo seems to like a high ratio on the lower end. I see ratio of 2:1 all the time until boost is above 20psi, then it starts to level off and come down closer to 1:1. - Turning the pot switch on allows you to manually set the vein position as long as throttle input is below %25. If you turn the pot all the way to 1000 value ( turbo is limited to positions 40-970) it will lock the turbo %100 open regardless of throttle input. You can use the pot to set the turbo position to small and allow for fast warmup. - Exhaust brake will work provided pot switch is off and throttle input is below %5 it will try and keep EB pressure at 45psi per the code. If pressure increases to above 45 psi it will slowly open the veins. He351ve TURBO RPM based Controller Code Thanks to hakcenter at lilbb.com I have edited my code to include his turbo shaft speed controller for the turbo. It is smoother and more refined than using the boost/drive to control the vanes. You will not run into EGT issues or shaft speed issues using this code. You can download the code in the attached zip ** versions after 1.11 are for the arduino mega so if you are using an arduino uno ensure you use version 1.11 This requries you add a 9924 chip to your controller to count rpms. I highly suggest you visit www.lilbb.com and look at his controller shield for the arduino if you want a more out of the box controller. Additional Parts Umax 9924 Chip: Mouser link Pullup Resistors 10k: SparkFun Link You can find the documentation for the 9924 HERE, Click "Data Sheet" Chip: Pins: Basics on wiring for A2 Mode: 1 vr+ ( turbo +) 2 vr- ( turbo -) 3 NC ( not connected) 4 GND 5 GND 10 +5v 9 GND 8 NC 7 IO8 + 10k + 5v pullup 6 GND Top left is 1, Top right is 10 Bottom left is 5, Bottom right is 6 He351ve Shaft speed Controller with ODB interface In my quest for a better controlled turbo I have decided to interface with a pretty cool OBDII interface. It is $39.99 shipped and should plug and play into your arduino. It converts the Canbus info into serial signal that can be read by the arduino via the library that was created for the device. You can find it Arduino OBD2 reader You will plug this into your vcc, gnd, tx, and rx pins of the arduino. Due to the age of the cummins there is a limited amount of info that can be used, but it does read RPM, TPS, Coolant, and IAT ( I think) maybe some other stuff, but I am not sure. The biggest perk to this is you can now use Engine RPM in your code to increase the vane size at higher RPMS while keeping the turbo responsive down low. You can download the code in the attached zip This code is still Beta so use at your own risk. Spool speed with the He351vgt. I went to about %35 throttle at about 8-9 seconds into the video. If you found this helpful please shoot a donation my way. Everything I do is to help support the community. Thanks -Me78569 he351.zip

Crankcase Vent Modification for 24V Dodge Cummins Trucks People been asking for me to redo this article so here it is. Supplies you'll need... 1 stick of 1/2" PVC pipe (minimum of 57" long) 3 - 1/2" PVC elbows slip to slip 1 - 1/2" PVC elbow slip to NPT (male or female) 1 - 1/2" PVC straight connector slip to NPT (male or female) 3" piece of 3/4" heater hose 2 hose clamps 1 Small can of PVC glue Hacksaw Sharpie black marker Tape measure Can of spray paint 1 Zip tie 6" long Cut measurements 3" Heater hose 4 1/2" front down pipe 2 1/4" front cross pipe 24" long pipe 5" rear cross pipe 20 1/2" rear down pipe NOTE: These measure are my final cut measurements. I suggest cutting a tad long and adjusting as you see fit for your truck. So at this point you should have all your materials to assemble. You should assembly your cut pipe and fittings dry without glue and test fit everything. While test fitting be sure to remove all plastic cuttings from the ends of the pipes. Also when test fitting be sure to bottom out all pipes into the fittings. In the supply list I list PVC elbow and a straight connector (male or female) this is totally up to you. You can do either way as long as you have a male and female connection in the end. Now during my test fitting I was very careful to get the front section of pie back far enough so its not in contact with the upper radiator hose. On the rear section you have to be careful of the angle of your down pipe. I've got mine resting on the very tip of the bellhousing. Now that you fairly happy with your fit. Take a Sharpie marker and mark all the elbow positions with a fine line from the elbow to the pipe to note position. This way you can glue the pieces back together in the proper angles. When gluing all the pieces together be sure once again to bottom out all your pipes into the fittings. At this point you will want to stuff your 3" piece of heater hose on the front pipe. Need at least 1" of heater hose on the PVC pipe for clamping. Now take a rag and a bit of paint thinner or lacquer thinner and wipe all the oil and grime off the pipe assembly. Now take a can of spray paint of the wanted color. It's best to get a spray paint that is chemically correct for plastics. So you should have a completed Crankcase vent pipe for your truck now. All you have to do is lay it back up on top. Make sure you have your 2 hose clamps on before installing. Slip the heater hose over the crankcase vent nipple. Using the one zip tie tie the rear cross pipe to the top of the hoist ring. Carefully slide the down pipe down and screw on to the rear fitting. Opps. the Paint was completely cured.

Bosch Certified VP44 Injection Pump Rebuilders This write-up is to list out all Bosch Certified injection pump builders who have an on-site Bosch 815 injection pump stand for testing and calibration Bosch VP44 injection pumps found on the Cummins Turbo Diesel. This is to educate Dodge Ram Cummins Turbo Diesel owners who there is only a handful of companies have the proper tooling for rebuilding Bosch VP44 injection pumps. This is not to steer you away from different vendors or dealers but to educate you to the fact, there is actually very few VP44 shops that do in-house rebuilding and calibration of the Bosch VP44 injection pump. I'm hoping with this article it will enlighten you enough to ask questions of the source of the Bosch VP44 injection pump, warranties, etc. This means there are a lot of vendors / dealers out there that are not tooled up for handling Bosch VP44 Injection pump rebuilding nor calibration. Now why there are so few shops that have a Bosch 815 test bench is because of the price, The Bosch 815 test stand are about $225,000.00 to purchase the Bosch 815 test stand. The Bosch License to do VP44 pump remanufacturing work is close to 1 million dollars from what I've been told by one injection shop I spoke to. This was the reason why most injection shop does not handle VP44 remanufacturing because of the pure price you must pay to become a Bosch Certified Rebuilder. Midwest Fuel injection Industrial Injection O-F-I (Oregon Fuel Injection) Jasper Engines Diesel Fuel Injection Rebuild Center Central Motive Power ProDiesel Diesel Forward (Diesel Injection Service) Dixie Diesel Here are a few videos of the Bosch 815 test stand used for calibrating the Bosch VP44 injection pump and the Bosch CP3 injection pumps. This goes to show that all pumps must meet a certain level of the test bench before being sold. If you happen to obtain information of additional certified Bosch Injection Shops with an in-house Bosch 815 test bench, please notify me I'll append the company name to the listing. Added - Central Motive Power - 03/06/13 From: Cordell walker Hey Mike, I'd just like to let you know that Central Motive Power in Denver/Commerce City Colorado is a Bosch-certified pump shop. I've seen their 6 test benches with my own eyes as well as all their other Bosch equipment for injectors and have watched them rebuild a vp44. -Dustin Added - ProDiesel - 03/09/14 From: Clunk @ CumminsForum These guys too, I've been inside their facility, saw the big Bosch test rig too. Added - Diesel Forward - 11/08/14 From: SlightlyHazy @ CumminsForum Hi there. I tried to send you a message quite a while ago about there being an 815 VP44 test bench local to me and was just reminded on a separate post that brought up your list but the company wasn't listed. Anyhow diesel forward in Windsor has a bench in house. They are also known by diesel injection service. Added - Dixie Diesel - 10/03/15 From: Drinkin Diesel @ Cummins Forum Sure can..here is the link to their website.... http://www.dixiediesel.com Phone number: 1 888 381 1647 P.O. Box 336 200 East 16th Street Columbia, TN 38401 Great guys to deal with.. except he had told me he has had good luck running the vp44 H.O. with 300hp injectors...that kinda worried me a bit..I declined his offer, due to trans being stock..

Dodge/Cummins ECU (1998.5 - 2002 ISB) ECU Hardware There are 2 computers on the Ram. One on the passenger side firewall behind the air cleaner assembly (the Powertrain Control Module, or PCM), and the ECU, which is located on the left side of the engine, mounted directly on the engine block. The ECU is connected with a single 50-pin connector. The ECU itself is a sealed unit, with a single air vent device. It is constructed of an aluminum 'frame', or center section, that has the mounting tabs to fasten it to the engine, and a sheet aluminum 'cover', that isn't really a cover at all - the flexible plastic 'circuit board' is adhered directly to the inside of this 'cover', on both sides. There is gray silicone sealer between the 'cover' and the 'frame'. To open the ECU, one must remove the screws, and carefully pry the cover open. You must be sure to keep the cover straight and don't bend it, as the flexible circuit board is adhered directly to the inside of it. The side of the ECU with the electrical connector seems to contain power supply and other power-switching components (driver transistors, etc). I do not know if there are any ICs on this side, because I did not open mine up on that side (and at this point, I do not really want to). The other side contains the 'computer' components (processor, memory, etc) as shown below: Most of the ICs inside are standard components. There are several unidentified components: 8L12A: 8-pin IC. Possibly 12V voltage regulator for flash programming? Phillips IC, marked '4651148 005633-- Fhr011B'. Maybe analog MUX for ADC inputs? Atmel IC, marled 'ENCORE 51R42722U02 82002253-001 A9D0013 9951'. I have no idea what this is for, it looks like an ASIC. 8-pin IC marked '74690 XAVS' 8-pin IC marked '3029009 1951130'. Near the filter choke. CAN bus driver? The ECU only uses 256KB of flash, even if the installed chip is larger. The original ECU I opened had a 512KB chip (28F400). I later obtained another ECU, and discovered it had a 256KB chip (28F200). These flash chips are organized into a 16KB boot block, 2 8KB parameter blocks, and the remaining blocks are regular data blocks. The parameter blocks can sustain many more read/write cycles than the other blocks on the chip. There is 64k of RAM available, in the 2 32Kx8 SRAM chips. The memory is organized as follows: 0x000000 - 0x3FFFFF: Flash. The first 16k (0x000000 - 0x004000) is the 'boot' part of the flash chip. 0x800000 - 0x80FFFF: RAM 0xFFD000 - 0xFFD7FF: Some unknown peripheral device. Perhaps the Atmel chip? 0xFFD800 - 0xFFDFFF: Intel CAN Controller 0xFFE000 - 0xFFEFFF: TPURAM (Refer to the MC68336 manual) 0xFFF000 - 0xFFFFFF: MC68336 internal functions/integrated peripherals Software Using a BDM interface cable and driver, I wrote a program that would dump the contents of the flash chip to a file for inspection. This was difficult because every so often during the data transfer, an error would occur. I solved this problem by only reading 2KB at a time. I later found out that this read error was occurring because of a 'watchdog timer' in the ECU hardware was attempting to assert RESET while I was reading the data (because when reading through the BDM port, the CPU is stopped). Once I modified the program to do 2KB reads I was able to get a successful read of the data. I used GNU objdump to create an assembler listing of the file. I have spent many hours 'picking apart' the program to figure out what each section is for, how the peripherals of the MC68336 are configured/used, etc. There is a compressed program in the lower 16K (boot block) that gets decompressed into RAM at startup, only if certain conditions are met. This is probably a small program that is only good for reading the CAN bus, so that the flash can be reprogrammed. I have not spent much time examining this program. The VIN of the vehicle is embedded in data around 0x4000, and again around 0x8000. There is also a 'signature' around 0x8000 that is checked at startup, and if it is valid, an address is read from location 0x800a and execution of the 'main' startup code continues at that address. There is a considerable amount of data that gets moved from the end of the flash data into RAM at startup. In this example, the data begins at 0x3829e and ends at 0x3fee7. That is approx. 32KB of data. At this time, I have only been able to identify the startup code, where the various components are initialized and addresses are set up, and parts of the program that read/write the CAN messages. The following things need to be done: Identify the CAN messages themselves, the message contents, and what they mean. Identify which inputs connect to where (temp sensors, MAP, APPS, etc). Identify the other outputs and what ports they are located (Wait to start lamp, VP44 relay, fuel pump relay, intake heaters, etc.) Determine how the flash can be programmed by methods other than desoldering the chip from the board Identify the remaining program sections, and their assocaited data (the 'maps') It would probably be useful to build a CAN interface for my PC, and 'watch' the data on the CAN bus while the engine is in operation. This might yield some information that can be used to identify more of the program. Other information It appears that the ECU itself was designed (and possibly manufactured) by Motorola. The ECU software, is unknown. There is no copyright message or any other identifying information in the dump of the flash memory, except the VIN number and the string '091197'. I do not know what language the program was originally written in, probably C, I really don't think something that large would be written in assembly language. Why? Because it is my truck, my ECU, my flash memory chip, etc. and I have a right to know how it works. And I also have the right to do what I want with it, whether that be drive it, or take the ECU out, sprinkle cheddar cheese on it and bake it in the oven, etc. I think people should be able to understand, and repair if necessary, anything that they own, whether it be a computer, a car, a dishwasher, or a bike.

How to remove the Bosch VP44 Injection Pump the quick and easy way. Takes approximately 45 minutes for me to remove the VP44 Injection pump. Remove the Mopar1973Man Crankcase vent (if applicable) Using a 10mm socket remove the four air horn bolts and one dipstick bolt. Using a 7/16 or 11mm socket loosen the top clamp of the intake boot. Move the grid heater and intake horn out of your way. Pack a shop rag in the intake to prevent stuff from falling in the intake manifold. Using a 13mm socket loosen the 3 bolts holding the APPS sensor and unplug and move over toward the driver side fender. Now unplug the VP44 main connector and wire tap . This connector is a two step plug lock. Pull the release tab and wiggle the plug out then pull a bit more on the release and the plug should release fully. Now using a 10mm loosen the 3 bolts holding the 1,2,4 injection rail in place. Using a 3/4" wrench loosen 1,2,4 injection lines. Now remove 1,2,4 injection lines as a group. Using a 3/4" wrench remove the overflow valve banjo and remove your supply line (may differ from mine being a big line kit) Now remove the crankcase vent. Just unscrews normal right hand threads. Do not pry on the nipple. Use an oil filter wrench or a strap wrench to loosen stubborn vent covers. Now remove the pump shaft nut with a 1 1/16 inch socket. Be careful removing the nut and lock washer that you don't drop them down into the gear case. A stubby Phillips screwdriver and a magnet is handy you can slide it off the shaft onto the Phillips screwdriver. Using a 23mm socket roll the alternator towards the coolant bottle to bring the keyway on the pump gear to TDC position and then install your gear puller and pull the gear loose on the shaft. Now loosen the 3,5,6 lines but you do not have to remove the injection line set. Now you want to loosen the 2 bolts on the rear bracket with a 13mm socket. Now remove the 4 nuts holding the pump to the gear case. Now careful kick the 3,5,6 lines out there nipples towards the block. Now lightly pry the VP44 injection pump away from the case and remove. Check for the key in the shaft make sure its present. This is what you should have after removal...

How To Reset / Calibrate Your APPS Sensor WARNING! Any time the batteries are disconnected, batteries ran dead, ECM disconnected, Accelerator Pedal Position Sensor (APPS Sensor) disconnected, Accelerator Pedal Position Sensor (APPS Sensor) replaced the Accelerator Pedal Position Sensor (APPS Sensor) calibration procedure MUST be done again to reset the Accelerator Pedal Position Sensor (APPS Sensor) idle and WOT limits. If the calibration is not done error codes and other issues must occur. 1. Disconnect the batteries and leave disconnected for at least 30 minutes. Now reconnect the batteries. 2. Turn key to ON position. (Do not Start) 3. Without starting engine, slowly press throttle pedal to floor and then slowly release. This step must be done (one time)>to ensure accelerator pedal position sensor calibration has been learned by ECM. If not done, possible DTC’s may be set. 4. Turn the key OFF. NOTE: Disconnecting the batteries will not erase or reset error codes. All it does is erase the Accelerator Pedal Position Sensor (APPS Sensor) calibration in the ECM. As the video below will demostrate.

MAP (Manifold Atmosphere Pressure) SensorThe MAP sensor is installed into the rear of the intake manifold. The MAP sensor reacts to air pressure changes in the intake manifold. It provides an input voltage to the Engine Control Module (ECM). As pressure changes, MAP sensor voltage will change. The change in MAP sensor voltage results in a different input voltage to the ECM. The ECM uses this input, along with inputs from other sensors to provide fuel timing, fuel control and engine protection. Engine protection is used to derate (drop power off) the engine if turbocharger pressure becomes to high. Mopar's Notes: This cleaning procedure will not correct any error codes that are being produced by the MAP sensor (P0237 or P0238). If you got a fueling enhancement box of any type hooked to the MAP sensor lines it could be a internal fault of the boost fooler circuit causing the MAP sensor error code. If the truck is stock then the MAP sensor requires replacement. This cleaning process is normally for Dodge Cummins that have exhaust brakes installed. But there has be a few reports of MAP sensors being dirty without a exhaust brake install. There is no maintenance schedule for cleaning the MAP sensor. If you do have a exhaust brake I suggest every oil change you clean the sensor. I clean mine every 6,000 miles and do a oil change at the same time. Ok. first thing when need to know is where is the MAP sensor located at. It's on the driver side of the engine just passed the fuel filter. Now you need the proper tool to remove it. You need a 1-1/16" deep well socket to remove the MAP sensor. Also your going to need a 3" extension. Preferably 1/2" drive. Mopar's Notes: It could also be a 1 1/4" socket too. Here is what the sensor looks like when its dirty. Now all you got to do is give it a few sprays of carburetor cleaner to remove the oily coating. Now that they are cleaned. Just reverse the process to install them back in the manifold.