Mopar1973Man

Check voltage drop of your main cables to see where your at... http://articles.mopar1973man.com/general-cummins/34-engine-system/136-voltage-drop-testing-of-wiring-and-feed-cables

Wow... I'm set for about 17-18 PSI and barely see 0.5 PSI drop with grid heaters. Even then I can disable the grid heaters by just unhooking the battery leads for them. April is coming soon and I'll just unhook the grid heaters. Grid heaters are not much of a issue for me on fuel pressure.

Remember the timing is a dynamic thing. It still advances and retards but the timing is over all retarded compared to without the fooler. Like with P7100 pumps the more you bring timing down to like 13-14* realm the torque typically moves down in the RPM's. Where advance timing the torque curve typically moves up in RPM's hence which in racing they typically go upwards 16-17* and even more optimizing the torque curve for the RPM's. So the fooler is attempting to bring the timing value down to daily driver level mostly for city and non-interstate driving. As for Interstate driving the speed is typically to fast and the wind drag to great to see much change.

I use the fooler empty or towing without problem. As IAT temperature falls the VP44 advances timing excessively. Without the fooler I drop considerable through the winter time and the timing rattle is excessive. So when I select the MPG position you can hear the timing shift in about 1-2 seconds and the rattle is gone as well as the ScanGauge II popping up 2-3 MPG roughly. But still in all the colder the temperature actually is the worse the MPG's get. I typically keep winter fronts in my truck well into April to keep the IAT temperature up as much as possible. The thing is the whole cold air intake thing tend to be backwards for MPG's because if you driving conservatively the boost pressure is low so there is no manifold heat really so the liquid diesel fuel takes more time to convert from liquid mist to vapor to ignite. So the extra manifold heat aids in the conversion process shorting the time. As for IAT temperature the colder the more advanced the timing gets and then coupled with high cetane fuel with quick ignition rate and low BTU value the timing get excessively advanced and that is where the heavy timing knock comes from so the high IAT temp value tends to retard the timing which brings it back to reason.

Lets say optimal manifold temperatures are about 140*F outside so outside temperature needs to be about 100*F. So for every 10* below the 140*F IAT you lose roughly 1 MPG. Remember this is economy running not racing.

I might be in error but I'll find out tomorrow... I'm tired and been on the road for 3 days...

I'm home. 3 days later... I got on photo on my cellphone of the truck but oh what the hell I'll most likely be up to the Chief's tomorrow to give him a hand unloading the beast. I'll get pics soon for you all. Nice 2006 Ford 550 7.3L Powerstroke diesel.

Figuring fuel expenses of driving two trucks home vs. towing it home. We figure it would be much cheaper than to worry about than driving it home. Not to mention with one truck and towing, the passenger can snooze and then switch out later and keep the train going. He's should be here any time...

Why don't you jump in the ring go some rounds with Ubuntu Linux? Hmmm?!

Actually its a Ford 550 4WD Diesel from Modesto, CA utility company. So it now coming home to Idaho to be converted to a Fast attack truck with 350 gallon of water and about 200-250 GPM pump. Then place all our extrication equipment on it as well as Wildland stuff too. So the Fire Chief and myself are heading down to Modesto, CA with his 6.7L Dodge and trailer to load up a Ford and tow it home. http://goo.gl/maps/7kcSt

Yea... As of this morning I'm packing up and heading for California to pick up a new truck for our Fire Dept here. So I'll be gone for 3 days roughly and leaving MoparMom here at home to try and keep the site rolling. I've pack my laptop so I can attempt to check on site when I can. But anyone looking for support I'll be gone for 3 days so you'll have to grab support from others staff or members till I return.

Soon to find out what the MPG fooler does to power I'm setting up to hit the dyno in April to do some testing of the effects.

It's easier for me to call you and explain over the phone. Sorry...

By the time I get that far off my chains are typically toast anyways and well abused. No problem I'll keep it under my hat for ya...

Total drive size is 1,000 GB or 1 TB... First block is Root which is 83 GB in size. Root is where all the Ubuntu Linux program files are stored. Second block is Home which is 99 GB in size. Home is where all your personal folders and data is stored. Third block is Swap which is 5.4 GB in size. Swap is what windows calls virtual memory. But in Ubuntu its rarely even used. ... on and on... Thing is Windows would assign a drive letter to every partition. So root would be C: and home would be D: and so forth. In Ubuntu Linux there is no drive letters just folders. What great about this is you can force commonly changing data forward on the drive giving it better access time where storage stuff like music and download a spot to the back of the drive where it doesn't need the boost. This is true for Windows NTFS system but now with Linux Ext4 format data is written differently it starts in the middle of the disc and works outwards. So Ubuntu Linux typically has faster drive timings compared to Windows and no fragmentation problem like Windows NTFS does. Brief article on installing a Ext4 Hard drive. https://help.ubuntu.com/community/InstallingANewHardDrive Some conversation on NTFS (Windows) vs. Ext4 (Linux) http://ubuntuforums.org/showthread.php?t=1786501 Might help you.

Ummm... What happen to the good old fashion saw file? I hand sharpen everything in the field. Like I found out from experience that you can tune a chain for particular wood or jobs by changing angles. I typically keep a small flat file in my tool box for rakes.

People are hung up on several things they think are like gasoline engine.

Here is a partition drive. What partition drives do is is separate data logically so it can be two different file format say Linux or Windows. May even just separating data like I've done. There is a performance gain to separate partitions being the index is smaller it quicker to find data. In my layout I moved static stored files like pictures, videos, music and other thing like that away from the system so fragmentation didn't occur which is a big problem for Windows but not on Linux. But keeping the partition is still handy because the static files stay out of the way. As for Linux relax and install it. It will dual boot with Windows very good. Not to mention Linux can see and use all your Windows files. But Windows can't use or even see Linux. So Linux is very universal for OS software.

Kick down cable needs adjustment it sound like...

Just using my stove for example I've got a pyrometer installed about two or so feet above the top of the stove. On my first start I can see at least 1,400 to 1,600*F worth of stove stack temps. I've even gone as far as pulling the gauge out of the stack and the probe is absolutely red hot. So if it just cheap steel with cast damper I bet the heat is enough to soften the steel rod and give you this problem.

Actually your backwards. It sets the IAT to 143*F and retards the timing. The colder the air temp gets the more and more advanced the timing gets. Which with cold air and overly advanced timing gets that heavy knock where when you flip to MPG mode the knock fades away because of the retarded timing. High cetane winter fuel will make it even more pronounced.

Not a problem I've gotten pretty good at doing remote support for Linux now.

Seriously. If you had Linux installed the SMART (Self-Monitoring, Analysis and Reporting Technology) would of warned you long before the drive was dying and given you more than enough warning to backup data before it failed. Like the 250 GB drive on my desk it fail this winter in the shop computer and both BIOS showed the failure and so did Linux at boot time then impending drive failure is going to happen backup now before the drive starts to fail. http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/S.M.A.R.T. <- Read more... What is really weird is Microsoft doesn't use SMART technology in Windows software other than the Scan Disk for error but there is no software within Windows to monitor SMART status of the drives unless you purchase the software and install it.

"I've got too much Stuff in my RV!"

Believe it or not retarding timing or preventing excessive advancement from excessive cold air. Cold air tends to hurt MPG's optimal IATtemps for MPG's is about 100-140*F