Mopar1973Man

Yes there should be teeth showing. If not you not going to be able to slip a pitman arm puller up there to get the pitman arm off. So what you'll have to do is unscrew the sector adjustment and beat the output shaft out. Just a huge pain in the ... I had one of these last summer and was piss off because the extra time involved to remove the steering box, reprime the system, reload with fluid and re-adjust the sector adjustment. You are fine... Leave it alone...

Final ratio plays a huge roll in good MPG's. 3.55:1 to 3.73:1 final to ground (calculating the tire size too) is the best range to hang in for most here.

Drop that boost bolt in the trash... Boost plug just forward of the MAP sensor its a 3/4" pipe plug just bush it down from 3/4 to 1/2 inch then get a bass bushing for 1/2" to 1/8" come out with a PTC fitting for your tubing.

I can change the tire size enough to make mine appear to be any any gear I wish. Being the PCM does not communicate gear position or even able to detect it there is no way for the ECM to have that info either. Kind of like the MPG display is all calculated from the fuel data, offset percent, and speed data. Accuracy of any calculated info requires the info in the setting to be accurate so the calculated is accurate as well. Now another thing too a lot of people assume the timing value display is actual timing of the engine which is is while the timing piston is working but as soon as P0216 code is thrown you looking at commanded timing and the piston could be full advanced ot retard and still display timing commands as usual.

What?! No limo tint glass in that bad boy? I've gotta ask what did it cost for glass to be cut and tempered for the windows?

Like me perfect 2k RPM at 66 MPH. Then interstate is 2,450 ROMs at 80 MPH. Don't bother me one bit listening to that Cummins sing like a well oil machine. Like I said final between 3.55 and 3.73 is a good spot to be. Being Beast is 3.69 and Thor is 3.73.

Only 2 positions close outside air OFF and MAX A/C. The rest of the positions are open to outside air.

Biggest thing is buying the cable that is expensive.

Even for me I'm ready to load up the ATV for a back country ride soon but gotta wait for the snow to melt. Ugh.

Remember iQuad is only calculated for gear position based on tire circumference math not actual.

Very true. It weird you got vacuum to open the fresh air flap or vacuum was dropped the door blew open. If vacuum was dropped then it should be stuck on DEF mode. There should be a few vacuum motors fresh air is over next to the kick panel. Just gotta do a dash pull.

Best answer. Seriously I've seen people cut the old end off leave the black oxidation on the copper and hook up new terminals (crappy 2 bolt clamp style).

Correct. The older EV series is machanical and all it needs is a snubber at the tap point and hook up the gauge light to panel lights.

Then there are some of us still got our factory battery terminals, no corrosion, and in good condition yet. Tell you the trick keep all exposed metals coated with engine oil. This includes battery hold down hardware.

Yup, the tail is gone. I use to run a 1976 Honda CB550 which I modified. Back then it was a Walkman (cassette) and earbuds. Then go out canyon racing. Back in my younger years when I was truly crazy.

Ear buds and a cellphone if you don't have one. For me its a good beat and you can dance a 1100 Goldwing right down a windy road.

3rd LU will only happen in the the OD switch is OFF. Even my old 1996 Dodge was that way.

I think when people build trike the rear tires are automotive size and weight but that trike weighs much less but still people over inflate the rear tires creating the bump problem. I get similar if I'm setup for my plow blade for tire pressures then remove the plow my ATV rides really rough like the rear tire are solid. Adjust the pressures based on weigh the ride will improve a bit more.

That's about it. Nothing that will truly change the angle or change the size of the tapered fitting. If its marred or pitted your going o have to replace that one line at least. I had this problem with the fitting at the crossover tubes with them weeping all down the back of the engine.

When doing injection lines 3, 5, and 6 should be tighten first without the 1, 2, and 4 even installed there is plenty of room. Since your leaking at that 3, 5, and 6 lines I would pull them and closely inspect them again. All it takes is a rust pit or crush mark to weep.

Same I do my lines by feel. You can loosen till it misses and tighten again. I usually add a bit more to ensure seal.

Warmed up here enough to make the yard muddy yesterday. I'll be glad when it's above 32F at night. im bracing for single digit nights soon.

In a nutshell it is correct. Only difference I might check the black probe directly to the alternator case.

After doing gauge for others and have to install twice because of low quality gauges. I would only go back to ISSPro, Autometer, Steward Warner, and a few other quality names. I installed a trans temp in the 96 Dodge I sold was also a Glowshift gauge and I hate to say it but it was poor quality as well.

Use a speedometer app. I've got one on my cellphone for customers trucks with big tires being I don't speeding tickets driving a customers truck for test drives. Dodge Dealers are rather under educated at times when I've got to teach them how to run the DRBIII tool and flash high idle to ON. Most are clueless and don't know or don't care to do the job. About $4,000 the last gent I told to swap out (McCall ID)and he was running 37's on 3.55 gears. His final with 3.55 gears was 3.07 final. Then after the 4.10 swap it was 3.51 final.