Mopar1973Man

Too far south from where the camp out will be but... You not far and could drive up and hang with me. I did a Google map lookup and figured botched the directions typical California. I'm sure you could make the trip up easier than me coming down that way. I don't use a GPs in that fashion. I know my North, South, East and West... Me I'm heading south and a bit west. East isn't going to happen anytime soon "yet"...

A/C cover installed. The cover I got lucky and found a RV dealer that had a used one with a bad hole. Just fender washer it. Only cost 50 dollars vs 250 dollars for new. Grabbed a new fan belt for Beast. Installed this morning easy peasy lemon sqeezey..squeeze... Now to get my truck clean and inspected.

Non issue... deeper the retard the quicker the spool up. More advancement more the fuel is burned in the cylinder. Now too much advancement you'll created negative torque when the expanding burn is push down on the piston as it travelling up yet. Too much retard the piston is travelling down when the fuel ignites and the little to no knock sound there is loss of power but quick spool.

Becareful, high starting timing might not give good boost building. Something I learned with building my trailer tune. Little secret I backed down more and pulls better.

Roughly 20 MPG with the light weight trailer (calculated guess). I'll be heading out on the 9th and running fully loaded on the RV to Cally. I'm going to be fully loaded, water, propane, clothes, ATV in the bed of the truck.

I've got a towing tune coming together. I build a base tune from my economy tune. Tweaked it for use on my Jayco RV which is 31 foot long and typically scales in at 8,000 to 8,500 pounds. As for today I was using my BigTex trailer and headed back down to Middleton, ID to put up my free bed. King size, dual zone adjustable. I had a 1/4 tank and left made to Council, ID and got 30 dollars of fuel (5.6 gallons) and continued to Middleton, ID loaded up the bed and headed out grab 20 dollars (3.8 gallons) of fuel and continued back to Payette, ID. Basically traveling 100 miles on about 5 gallon of fuel. Trailer was empty down (1,800 empty weight) and loaded no more than maybe 2,000 trailer and any other cargo in the truck (maybe an extra 100 pounds). When I was at Payette I got 100 dollars on my Maverik Nitro Card gives me 6 cents off a gallon so it was 20.004 gallons at $4.999 per gallon. I changed up the timing and it builds boost quicker, holding on and grade it might bump the added fuel zone little bit but it falls back to my stock fuel zone pretty quick. EGTs are cool, even on a 7% grade no more than 900°F at 65 MPH. Tune is smoke free, launches good with a load, easy to build power. Even wide open I struggled to even get close to 1,200°F even on the grade passing. Just cruising on the Interstate at 80 MPH (2,450 RPM) I was just about 750°F. This is just my first setup but I'm planning on heading to California with my RV so more tweaking will be performed. Just for the first run I'm very happy in the power even though I'm only using level 3 (CANBus fuel only).

Foot off throttle, my truck shows zero constant. EGTs drop to right about coolant temp on long down grades. Winchester Grade is quite long and typically see EGTs right at 180 to 200°F. Quadzilla reports zero engine load, back when I had the OBDLink LX it showed zero fuel injected (flow in GPH).

Just to prove it's not minerals that cause the issue being both my well and irrigation water is drinkable. Your correct it the pHlevels that city water starts out at and the additive package of the antifreeze can't fix that. Being I'm NOT on city water but natural water there is no issue either. That why the voltage starts to show being when the pH shifts to acidic (heading towards zero) it will create electrical charge in the coolant. Not to mention every time you start your truck cold you dumping 500 to 700 amp charge across the block super charging the coolant. This is why color is meaningless. If you wait for rust or discoloring it too late already the pH of the coolant is oxidizing the metal cast iron of the block, aluminum of the radiator, heater core etc. This is the oxidized metals you're as scale blooms in the radiator they condense out of solution on the core tube ends. Just consider why I've got my factory water pump at 441k miles. Coolant pH has been kept neutral all these years, no damage to the seal or shaft since no coolant is seeping pass the seal the bearing isn't oxidizing either.

During start up run the lift pump circuit at 50% duty cycle. This will reduce injection pump fuel pressure. It will also prevent over advancement of the pump which creates hard starting. You can verify this by unplugging the lift pump.

I'm going to take my economy tune as a base and go from 4.5 per timing band to 4.0 per timing band. This will allow for a bit more boost under load. The bit of retard will give more expanding gases to the turbo for more boost.

Yes. When engine load is ZERO then the VP44 stops injecting and just bypasses to the return line. This applies to all engine and transmission combos.

Only thing I would do is ditch the Blue Chip Pump and go back to a stock VP44. Modified pump could pose a problem being like Blue Chip pump do with building tunes. Stock VP44 is much much better for tuning over hot rod or Blue Chip pumps. Proper final ratio has to do with getting the power to the ground without heat. Good final ratio to the ground of 3.55 to 3.73 is required. If your running oversized tires on 3.55 gear I will bet your EGTs are high.

I'm running... 150 HP injectors popped at 320 bar Quadzilla Adrenaline tuner with my economy tune HX35W turbo 4 inch exhaust straight pipe 30 inch tires (245/75 R16) NV4500 transmission BHAF

Like putting 35 inch tires on 3.55 gears which makes a final ratio of 3.21 to the ground. Optimal to the ground is 3.55 to 3.73. So I'm running 245/75 R16 on 3.55 gears making 3.69:1 to the ground. This put me at 66 MPH at 2,000 RPM. This is a really good final ratio which has me topped out 28.04 MPG. This is partially due to lighter rotation mass being my wheels and tires are roughly 65 pounds per wheel. Rotation Mass affects acceleration and weight affects how much power is needed to keep rolling. Notice the elevation doesn't change and egts are low.

I'm in Idaho... server is in Michigan. Right now I'm more focused on the camping trip. In the evening I've been working the bugs out of the firewall. Funny how much you can do with Android phone being Android is Linux, so is my server, and my home PC. Something a iPhone can't do.

Welcome to the family...

Quadzilla is worth it. EGTs could also be bad final ratio. What axle do you have? What sized tires?

800 RPM is standard idle speed. If the APPS sensor is tripping the idle validation switch it should be 800 RPM with +/- 10 RPM.

@Quadzilla Power here is the overlap issue. Included phone info.

Yeah level up and down are too small on my phone and always getting the gauge selection box.

Good idea...

You could tag @Quadzilla Power and discuss those problems. Me personally the display layout is poor and over lapping. Doesn't layout properly on my Samsung S21

I'm not sure how that would work being the high bar MAP sensor will be miscalibrated for the voltages provided to the ECM.

Might be a firewall issue here. @JAG1 got snagged, the @W-T was another and I'm trying to catch when and what the trigger is that doing it.

What your seeing is the Dicor coating peeling up. The EPDM rubber is still good on top but the Dicor coating is peeling right off.