Mopar1973Man

@Silverwolf2691 hey if I want to know what is coming at me I just call @JAG1 he gets the weather before I do.

I did and was going through my parents stuff and found all the photos. So time machine back to 1987 and I was 17 years old work on my 1973 Dodge Charger SE.

You want a bit of slack in the cable to ensure that the brake arms are returned FULLY. Now you can adjust your slack in the shoes using the starwheel. Once the brake shoes are lightly dragging. Now you can re-adjust the cable slack till it is just about ready to pull the cable. Why? Because I've seen cases where people adjusted the parking brake using the cable slack adjustment and have the cable pulled half the stroke and wonder why it will not hold on a slope. You gotta make sure the brake arms are FULLY returned before adjusting the slack of the shoes. Now you get a full pull and the truck holds much better than just wheeling up the slack adjustment and find out you only getting half pull and won't stay parked.

That job right now is closed till spring time. Being McCall / Donnelly is still cold and snowing and I've got to work outside no shop. I still do small task for the group but right now its just been cold and slow for everything even here. Again this morning looking at the weather tower and 17*F this morning there is nothing at this time that requires me to head out in the bitter cold it can wait. After doing a start 2 days ago on a 7.3L Ford I was have issues in a very short order trying to even pick up the tiny 8mm nut for the starter because my fingers froze up quick. Gloves... Worthless then I lose all my dexterity so right now I'm just holding and waiting.

Starwheel is use to take up slack in the shoes to drum clearance. Do not adjust the cable for this. The cable adjustment is only take slack out of the cable. This adjust should allow for full return of both arms in the hubs. If not it's TOO TIGHT.

W-T is suggesting adding a second ground across the radiator to the driver side. Measuring voltage drop between the battery and block won't change. Way to test, is use jumper cables and jump between both negative terminals and check for volt age drop again. So far I've not found any gains.

Ha! I did the same thing ordered a set of brake shoes for the parking brake and found out I just needed to adjust them. It might be worth doing a quick inspect before ordering parts so you not buying stuff you really don't need. Like myself I've got a 125 mile trip to return my brake shoes which I'll just keep them for now.

You get what you pay for you want cheap your going to get cheap quality. I'll admit Autometer and ISSPro are expensive BUT you get the quality behind that price. Still to this day I would rather build using ISSPro EV2 series gauges over even the ISSPro EV (Mechanical). Being the is no tubing or live fuel in the cab. The electrical is extremely easy to set up and even daisy chain gauges together, huge bonus. The programmable relay option of the EV2 is cool for thing like trans temp gauge to have the relay to control your cooling fan. All USB adjustable inluding warning lights for out of range values. For example EGT gauge set the warning light for above 1,200*F temps. That way you will see that little red LED glow when temp are out of range and don't need to watch close just mind the light position and you'll know which gauge it is.

+11*F here this morning and with a wind of 8 to 12 MPH makes it feel like -2*F with a Wind chill of -2*F. Nope. I'm going to sit right here for a while longer before heading out to the shop to work. I don't get paid enough to work in that cold of temps. Ugh. Yeah, I'm going to move a vehicle out of the shop start a fire and move the other in for a new pan gasket. (1996 Chevy 1500 with a 350 CID). Sloppy job but gotta be done.

If diodes are damaged either replace the diodes or just replace the alternator. Might look up local alternator rebuilder for diodes.

Next part is why? I'm going to assume you haven't done the W-T ground wire mod. So now a bad alternator diode can pollute the system with AC noise. Being the ground for the ECM and VP44 run right next to the alternator charge line heading to the PDC. So you need to bench test the alternator replace it if noise issue is present. Then do the W-T ground wire mod which fixes this problem. Then install a new VP44 which won't be damaged by AC noise in the future.

Yup. Same here I've got the 3:4 ratio 64 MP camera as well. I typically keep the full or 1:1 mode. Samsung S21 Android.

This was one of the selling points of Linux for me. Everything can be administrated from a distance on Linux vs Windows that is pure Graphical interface and very costly bandwidth wise to work remotely for any windows product. Another fact, there is more Linux web servers in the world than Microsoft web servers, then Apple doesn't even have web server platform that I know of. Since Android is a version of Linux I can administrate most functions of the website on my cellphone. I'm not talking with a browser like Chrome but actually SSH (Secure SHell) which allows me to to give commands directly to the server over a secure encrypted port. Looking at the Database server for the website which I pulled up on my Samsung S21 Android on a terminal app while laying in bed drinking my morning coffee.

Yes. Just simple angle iron. pull a bolt out of the cover slip the angle in and bolt back up.

OMG that is pretty...

Just to show off my custom addon to my desktop. Something Windows can't do at all but Linux can do. I can monitor in real time my server which is up near Michigan. Completely remote server compared ot me in Idaho. I can display the amount of RAM used, swap space, CPU loads. This program is called Conky. You can write your own scripts to display any information you want to the desktop. You can even tweak it so a side panel is never covered like my older script did. No matter what you did with a window it wouldn't cover the display. This go around I left it a normal desktop that does cover. Nice part I can see anyone that logs into the server display even the hosting techs show up so I always know who is on the server including myself which is displayed and IP does match my machine locally. (blurred out) As you can see I'm always watching over the server and paying attention to performance metrics and making sure you all have nice fast connection the best I can for my end. As you can see my local machine is the far left and the shorter display on the right is M73M.

Articles, articles...

Like I'm learning you might want to get a hold of the Dodge FSM and then look up all the ports used in the fuse panel and what size fuse goes where. I found a few with a larger fuse stuffed in the port. A few I found where missing a fuses completely which explains why some thing never worked right. Like I did with Thor I got the 2006 Fuse list and ran right down the list and made sure each port had a fuse that was hook up and tested good. Then I found the fuse I was chasing anyways for the tail lights. Next step would to be re-test against my RV when the snow stops again.

Just a friendly reminder... Take the time to inspect your brakes and all the hardware. Like myself I dove in to fixing my parking brake thinking there was a problem there but really just needs adjustments now and then. During the time of pull the calipers off I found 3 of the 4 slide pins rotten, one rubber boot was so wore it separated in half from the rough rust rubbing on it. Fix is easy I got a set of slide pins and boots coming this morning just gotta head to McCall ID to get them. Only +16*F and snowing this morning. Oh Fun.

They have been mounted like that over 350k miles and I only replaced 1 bulb so far in that time. Currently the rely is rotten needs replacement and the last time I put the trans in I didn't hook up my switch again want to change my hook up too.

Sweet ride even my color... That blue caught my attention.

Why? It is already tapped in a 3/4 hole in the manifold. But hey I did that on 2006 being that plug was not present for CR heads.

Same set up here the reverse light are also halogen and my relay is tucked back up in the left side taillight high last a bit longer but still gives up fast. I get my power from the 40A +12V out of the 7 pin trailer plug. I've got a pair of halogen aircraft landing lights on the rear axle. You do not want to place big halogens on the the violet lead it will burn the reverse switch and the wiring up being the two bulbs I run at 16.6 Amps for the pair. Now if I swapped for LED floods I could then most likely swap over as long as the new set is low current draw. I would still be careful to swap the stock bulbs to LED as well to open up the amp window a bit more for additional draw. I've also got a switch on my overhead console to force the reverse lights on as well so I have a flood of light during hitch up of trailers.

Absolutely. Keep all sensors and the engine wiring and ECM and PCM if possible. Sensor like @Great work! posted can be swapped easy enough. Alway just that weird little something you should of kept and didn't.

Shouldn't have to for standard little things like lights and small accessories. Large accessories like a winch should be wired directly to the battery. Yes, you can ONLY if the alternator lead is NOT hook up in the PDC any longer and the W-T ground wire mod was done.