Mopar1973Man

No. I'd stayed at camp. Too wore out for more hiking steep country. So I gather wood for the night. Enjoyed the peace and quiet. That was Andrew. He's my Hobbit. This little dude can move down a trail in a quick hurry. No joke.

How many miles on the injectors? If there is more than 100k it time to replace the injectors. It could be pop pressure is low and the injector is spraying good causing a random mis or just weak hit.

That's what the website was designed for so anyone can build articles, forum posts, etc. Trust me there is nothing you guys and gals can hurt here. Just ask questions. Addon... Just like I told @Doubletrouble was even if I've got an article for say task "X" and you want to make a new task "X" with the knowledge you know that is fine. This give readers different perspective to the same task. Kind of like W-T did the ground wire mod and I reproduced my own version just to simplify the task of doing said mod. Both have the same out come when done just some people are not electrical types and start reading W-T article and it was too techie for some so drop all that get right ot the task. So as you can see there reasons for remaking the same article.

Well consider at about 2.5 miles in you have to cross French creek. So pull you boots, socks and pants off and walk across the creek in 34 degree water. Then hurry up get you pants, socks and boots on. The way home we tried to cheat and just roll up our pants and just pull or sock and boots. Needless to say my pant legs fell back in the water half across. By the time I got to the truck my pant legs were nearly dry. Yup. Body heat was drying me out quickly. I've got a photo of Andrew crossing in his underwear. Not something I would post here but you get the picture. I'll admit I'm not in great shape but made the trip 3 hours in packing roughly 50 pounds of gear, water and food. Then with cloud cover it was cool for the evening but like I said next morning it was snowing on us. Nicer to come out mostly empty pack other that gear. We ate good up there. I slept good. Today I'm one sore puppy. My hips and lower back are still screaming but I've got a solution for that too. Oh I asked Andrew where the trail goes and it's roughly 24 miles long going to Seasech summit. Yeah it's still covered yet but that is what French creek is all about is snow melt.

Yeah I love turning off my phone and being out in the wood without internet, cell service, roads, or vehicles. Makes you consider how lucky we are. Like I told Andrew this is what Lewis and Clark did years ago.

Yup. Not a problem. Give a call to DAP they could do it too.

Best way to find out is send them in have the pin size the holes and pop test them. The oily fluid could of been pop testing fluid.

Thankfully I've kept mine all lubed up and working. I've got a truck I've got to go get this week and fix the latch and door panel again.

Mine is missing the muffler too. Straight pipe all the way to the tail pipe way less issues with exhaust parts.

12.86* BTDC for my truck warm idle.

Friend of mine (Andrew), got a hold of me Thursday night and mention that he wanted go out horn hunting. I jumped at the chance to get out for the first time in the spring. Hiked in roughly 5 miles into French creek and set up camp. I was bit too wore out by then and opted to hang at the camp. I spent the better part of the day gathering firewood and keeping the home fires going. Had a wonderful time up there that night, rocked out to misuc, food and good company. Then the next morning we woke up at 6:30am MDT. Still dim lit and got a fire started and got breakfast going. Just as we got breakfast and got eating the snow started to fall. We were up around 4,030 ft according to my Garmin GPS. We quickly ate breakfast and got rolling out.

4 inch is always an upgrade. I ran mine till my muffler broke off the tail pipe. Right around 300k if I recall correctly.

Oh my Gawd. The only one is the passenger battery lead. The rest of those are lights and nothing major. W-T ground wire mod deals with this directly. Again passenger battery negative covers ECM, PCM, and VP44. Being all sensors rely on ECM internal ground this means the W-T ground mod resolves most of this. Again being that ECT is not pegging out and dropping this is the ECT shorting to ground. If you did the W-T ground you would have the loom exposed most of the way to the ECM. Even having @Auto Computer Specialist do the testing too will resolve this.

Just got done fixing a Quad door not latching. The latch rods froze in the release position and door would just bounce.

Mine have been on my truck for years and 100's of thousands of miles. No leaks and withstood up to 53 to 55 PSI. No problem.

Actually does. Android wants the Bluetooth, then Apple wants WiFi.

Now ive got two economy vehicles. Between the Grand Caravan reaching 25 MPG. Then Beast getting 28 MPG the biggest thing is driving style. My last trip with the mini van I cross Boise on Eagle Rd and was able to slow the degrading going light to light. Even making the climb over Horseshoe Bend grade. Most people have a heavy foot and jack rabbit starts going light to light. In Beast I watch the EGTs and engine load. Then in the mini van I watch instant MPG. When you have some feed back make sure to use that info.

Not to make bad feeling this is why I step up through the power little at a time to resolve issues as I'm stepping up. Every time I see someone building for a high HP goal it typically falls apart and parts don't work out. I think thats why we all post up what we have and the results.

Yeah I know the feeling I just dropped $400 on a new windshield in the Grand Caravan. Also got my water leak fix being the body was rusted through at the top of the windshield. Two for one fix deal...Ugh. Being gasoline is dollar plus cheaper than diesel so the mini van is getting more attention for the moment.

Same here when my HX35/40 Hybrid gave up and started rubbing, I had less than 15 PSI at WOT and ZERO PSI at 75 MPH. EGT's were actually lower than normal which was weird cruisung at 65 MPH was about 450*F with that failing turbo. Most likely because of lack of boost the fuel was not being given. I pull the Hybrid turbo off and threw the stock HX35W back on and boost is back and EGT's are back to normal. As for his case with 6 x 0.013 are pretty big injectors. I know the injectors have been sent back multiple times. Pretty sure its not injectors. Pretty sure the Quadzilla is working correctly. Even on Lvl 0 the EGT's are going to be high so this removes Quadzilla from the list of problems. I know the valve lash has been done several times. The only thing I can think of is turbo...

I helped another person redesign the VP44 with the knowledge I have. After a lot of modifications, dual fuel feed into the body, higher internal regulator, drilled out some passages and few other mods. Stock SO pump typically tops at about 600 HP and his modified VP44 passed the 1,000 HP mark easy on the dyno. I don't remember part numbers or where he go the bits and pieces but it managed to do it. Pin would have to be magnetic too. So lighter alloys might not pull as good in the magnetic flux to open the pin.

I'm starting to think the turbo is too big. Being the fuel curve is totally controlled by boost and if boost is not building fast then the fuel map will not rise up to add more fuel. With all that fuel 2.38 times over stock yeah 70% to 80% should be fine too. Even stock (Lvl 0) is going to run hot being the turbo still isn't spooling in a timely manner. Being your already up to 15 degrees and stepping up from there it should have enough timing just there is no boost to back it up. Kind of like a boost leak EGT's would rise pretty sharply for those injectors, just the turbo is late to the party. Twins possibly? Smaller turbo maybe?

Steering wheel controls are sent to the Central Timer Module (High Line) and the converted to digital signal over the CCD bus back to the factory stereo. I've seen several converter boxes possible of getting those controls to work with other stereos but I've never heard if those actual work or not. I've you do a bit of searching here you might find that thread about stereo controls in the steering wheel for aftermarket stereos. Remember this will not work with standard central timer. Hence why the factory stereo comes with a CCD network plug.

Also pre bled systems I've seen them with enough air that it doesn't break the tabs loose. Then you end up pulling it back out to bleed the system again. Being there is typically a high spot after the master.

Typically you drain the system and pull the compressor and drain the drain out the plug in the side of the case. Now re-load with 5 to 6 ozs of PAG 100 oil. Remount and pull a vacuum on the system. Then I typically use three 12oz R134a cans. Being its leaked out I would do a o-ring seal kit and replace all o-rings. Make sure to oil the o-ring before assembly. O-ring kits are typically 20 bucks or so.