Mopar1973Man

@dripley did the rocker change IIRC.

Empty truck on flat ground at 55 MPH. Towing the RV at 55 MPH it only rises to 600*F on flat ground. Like I said final ratio is a huge factor in what EGT's are going to be. More I've played with other customers trucks and most having tires like 33 to 35 inch tirs they all have extremely high EGT's because of improper final ratio with tires. If you running above a 265/75 R16 you should be running 4.10 gears for the over sized tires. From 265/75 R16 and smaller you can keep the 3.55 gears but optimally the 245/75 R16 are the best combo for towing. That is a perfect 66 MPH at 2,000 RPM can't get any better. Even running empty at 80 MPH on the interstate I'm twisting 2,450 RPM at 80 MPH but still get close to 20 MPG. Again EGT's barely 700 degrees at 80 MPH. Even with 30 to 40 MPH head winds going across Nevada desert I was floating 800 to 1,000 degrees in EGT at 60 MPH. Yeah I'll admit the MPG was way lower but 10 to 11 MPG wasn't to shabby. Just look in my yard of the customers rigs I get to play with and see how different tires and power combo work. I still beat them all with Beast with that super low EGT's with a stock turbo, 150HP injectors, and Quadzilla with my Economy tune.

Hey I just seen a Ford V10 engine turn cast manifolds glowing red hot just barely getting to 55 MPH in a class A Bounder motorhome. Those manifold were blue before we even started. You could see it in normal daylight. It would not surprise me on a turbo being that is the narrowest flow spot and will convert heat energy to motion of spinning the turbo, it should turn that cast iron blue rapidly. Just figure 1,250°F will for sure get the color going.

Just consider... im running the 7 x 0.010 injectors on a stock HX35W turbo (54/6012). Even towed my RV which tipped the scale at 8,100 pounds (17,500 Gross weight) all the way to Cally. No EGT issues. It has to be something about your selected turbo. I'm more stock than you are with no issues with EGTs so makes me think combination of addons are causing your issues.

Huge problem you just made the ratio to tall and adding stress to the driveline and increasing EGTs. Smaller tires and proper final ratio between 3.55 to 3.73 is optimal. Your currently 3.42 final ratio with 285/75 R16 with 3.55 gears. Beast is currently 3.69 final ratio with 245/75 R16 with 3.55 gears. Then I made that trip to California hauling my 31 foot RV to 7,500 feet elevation never even worried about EGTs with 150 HP injectors and STOCK HX35W turbo. Thor is 3.73 final with 265/70 R17 with 3.73 gears. I left this truck pure stock because of optimal gear ratio for the weight roughly 9,000 pounds. Final ratio is huge impact on EGTs. Here is a example. Again I've got no EGT issues and super high MPG number at 28.04 MPG. Ratio does matter number 1 on my list.

I just made a trip to Bridgeport, CA 1400 miles roughly. Climbing up to 7,500 feet. With my 31 foot RV, ATV in the bed I weighed out at 17,500 pounds. Now... the truck I'm running 150 HP injectors on stock HX35W turbo (54/60/12). No EGT issues at all using my towing tune on my Quadzilla. Biggest thing is final ratio. Mine is 3.69:1 after tires (245/75 R16). Running 2k at 66 MPH. Perfect towing setup.

Blue and black... You must be color blind...

Here you go... Inside is a check ball and spring but still has a small bleed hole to allow for the pressure to be released after the boost pressure falls. The check ball will close again keeping the boost going strong. Tested and proven at least on my truck. I pulled the wastegate hose loose and left it open not plugged. Then pulled 1 manifold bolt out as a open hole leak. As for max boost pressure was only down 5 PSI and had ZERO impact on EGT's on my truck made little to no different even while WOT operation. So as for the tiny pin hole boost leak has ZERO impat on performance nor will it change the EGT's when I've had a leak that was MASSIVE comparing it didn't run hot or smoke any differently.

This is roughly the temperature vs color on steel and cast iron.

Biggest thing is getting the torque converter locked up as soon as possible. Proper final ratio of 3.55 to 3.73 is going to keep trans temp down more so. Trans temp is a sign of power loss by too much supplied power and/or working load.

The ISSPro EV2 gauges can be programmed to control the fans. Basically have the Trans Temp gauge set for tripping the aux relay that plugs into the gauge and it can control the fan. Then you can also program the warning light for a higher temp. Being I've got manual trans I really don't need this function but... I might be designing a trans cooler set up.

Mine is way different its two body halves with a spring and check ball inside the unit. As you screw it together it increases the boost pressure, loosen then there is less boost pressure. I gave up on those boost elbows since its just a controlled boost leak and now a regulator for the wastegate. The check ball keeps the line closed till the boost pressure is enough to open and push the wastegate. This also has a small bleed hole too to release the waste gate after the pressure falls again but works way better than those boost elbows. I got mine off of eBay from a place in China it took awhile but it was a mere $15 bucks or so.

He basically is turning around so fast there is no stock. He will receive yours rebuild and send back out. takes just about a hour or two to go through and he'll have it sent back out the next day.

This can stem from low pop injectors too. As the injectors wear the pop pressure falls below 293 bar and timing will advance again. Just in the injectors I run I'm adding about 2 degree because I set for 320 bar which makes the injection event late. As the pop pressure falls the event becomes early, or advance the timing.

I've made the same mistake years ago and no longer running to Cumnins or Mopar for any parts. Over priced reboxed junk with Cummins logo. Just like Mopar filters are just rebadged fleetguard. As for gasser filter Mopar filter is actually a Fram. Again just rebadged and still junk but pay big bucks.

I'm not a Cummins parts fan being most parts are NOT produced by Cummins and not worth the money. I've seen failed head gaskets (Cummins HG made by BLK) in under 1k miles, Cummins thermostats (made by Mr. Gasket). They are not that sensitive being Timbos APPS is not even a Cummins product or designed for our engine but it works for over 250k miles till mine finally wore out. Just consider the high idle switch again not designed by Cummins but it works no issue by hundreds for people. Again not that sensitive.

For 50 HP injectors stock turbo should be fine. I'm running 150 HP injectors on my stock HX35W (54/60/12). Climbing 7,500 into Bridgeport, CA. No EGT issues at all. My biggest problem was transmission temp that was running high from head winds. Total weight was 17,500 pounds. Boost limited to 35 PSI. Again my final ratio is 3.69 running on 245/75 R16 tires. This is the huge part having proper final ratio. Might be pizza cutter but no EGT issues.

I'm starting to think a 64/71/14 is just too big of a turbo. Being I'm on a stock HX35W turbo (54/60/12) with 150HP injectors and EGTs are still controlled. Made my trip to Bridgeport, CA and haul my RV to 7,500 feet of elevation. The total weight scaled was 17,500 pounds total truck and trailer. I ran level 3. The only problem I had was head wind which got the trans temp up to 220°F. No EGT issues. My boost is limited to 35 PSI total.

Did you contact @Auto Computer Specialist and discuss with them?

I'm think turbo cap for pressurizing the intake and air system for testing. Not a blowby test because blowby test you can pass with a cracked piston but would fail if a compression test was done.

I made mine from just plumbing parts at the hardware store. Drilled a hole and installed a air chuck.

Should of done a blue top steering box. Yeah I've had a few issues but Ryan took care of me promptly. He also took the time to verify what was going on with the box and steering. @Blue-Top Steering

Tach signal is dropping out and ECM is in limp mode trying to keep it running. Might try the new sensor. While the sensor is out you might want to check the tone wheel inside to see if it loose on the crank. I've seen one case here on the website where the tone wheel got loose and was tore off the crank.